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IUJNQ1S  RISTQRICH  SURVEY 


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1 


THE 


N 


STATES  AND  TERRITORIES 


OP   OUR 


WESTERN   EMPIRE: 


EMBRACING   THE 


HISTORY    STATISTICS  AND  GEOGRAPHY 


OF   THE 


TERRITORIAL   REGIONS   OF   THE    UNITED    STATES, 


AND   OP   THE 


PRINCIPAL  STATES  AND  CHIEF  CITIES  OF  THE  WEST 


THEIR 


CLIMATE,  SOIL,  PRODUCTIONS,  MANUFACTURES,  COMMERCE,  INTERNAL 
IMPROVEMENTS,  POPULATION,  ECT.  ETC. 


COMPILED    PROM    THE    LATEST    AUTHORITIES. 


COLUMBUS: 

PUBLISIIED    AND    SOLD    EXCLUSIVELY    BY    SUBSCRIPTION, 
BY    J.    ft    II.  MILLER. 

185  7. 


." 


T 


TABLE   OF   CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Washington  Territory. — Boundaries — Face  of  Country — Mountains — Miner- 
als— Rivers,  Bays,  Sounds,  and  Islands — Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists — 
Climate — Soil  and  Productions — Forest  Trees — Animals — Internal  Im- 
provements— Population — Counties — Towns — Government 465 


Oregon  Territory. — Boundaries — Face  of  Country — Mountains — Minerals — 
Rivers,  Bays  and  Lakes — Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists — Climate — Soil 
and  Productions — Forest  Trees — Animals — Manufactures — Commerce — 
Internal  Improvements — Education— Religious  Denominations — Population 
— Counties — Towns — Government  and  History. 469 

California. — Boundaries  and  Extent — Face  of  the  Country — Geology — Bays, 
Rivers,  Lakes,  etc. — Objects  of  Interest  to  Travelers — Climate,  Soil  and 
Productions — Forest  Trees — Animals — Manufactures  —  Commerce — Inter- 
nal Improvements — Education — Religion — Public  Institutions — Population 
— Counties,  Cities  and  Towns — Government,  Finances,  etc. — History — San 
Francisco  described — Statistics  of  its  Commerce — Total  Produce  of  Cali- 
fornia Gold — Population  and  History — Sacramento  City  described 475 

Territory  of  Utah. — Its  Boundaries — Face  of  the  Country,  Geology,  etc. — 
Lakes  and  Rivers — Objects  of  Interest — Climate,  Soil  and  Productions — 
Forest  Trees — Animals — Manufactures — Commerce — Education — Religion 
— Counties,  Cities  and  Towns — Population — Government — History — Salt 
Lake  City,  the  Capital 490 

Territory  of  New  Mexico. — Boundaries — Face  of  the  Country — Minerals 
— Rivers — Interesting  Objects — Climate,  Soil  and  Productions — Forest 
Trees — Animals — Manufactures  —  Education — Religious  Denominations — 
Periodicals  —  Population — Counties  and  Towns — Government — History — 
Santa  Fe 496 

Texas. — Boundaries  —  Face  of  the  Country — Geology — Minerals — Risers, 
Bays  and  Sounds — Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists — Climate,  Soil  and  Pro- 
ductions— Animals — Manufactures — Internal  Improvements — Commerce — 
Religious  Denominations — Public  Institutions — Periodicals — Population — 
Counties,  Cities  and  Towns — Government — History — Galveston 502 

Indian  Territory. — Its  Extent  and  Boundaries — Face  of  the  Country — Rivers 
— Climate,  Soil  and  Productions — Animals — Population 512 

Territory  of  Kansas. — Its  Extent — Face  of  the  Country — Rivers — Objects 
.  of  Interest — Minerals — Forest  Trees — Zoology — Forts  and  Stations — Popu- 
lation— Indian  Tribes — Government  and  History 514 

Territory  of  Nebraska. — Boundaries — Face  of  the  Country — Rivers — Objects 
of  Interest — Climate,  Soil  and  Timber — Animals — Commerce — Forts  and 
Stations — Population — Indian  Tribes — History 517 

Territory  of  Minnesota. — Boundaries — Face  of  Country — Geology — Minerals 
— Lakes  and  Rivers — Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists — Climate,  Soil  and 
Productions — Forest  Trees — Animals — Manufactures — Internal  Improve- 
ments— Commerce — Education — Public  Institutions Population — Coun- 
ties— Government — History — St.  Paul 522 

Region  of  Lake  Superior. — Its  Area — Navigation  of  the  Lake — Phenomena 
— Mirage  of  the  Lake — Islands — Lake  Coast — Table  of  Distances — La 
Grand  Sables — Pictured   Rocks — Rivers — Minerals — Iron   Regions — Agri- 


.*^7Crf«y*  1 


4  CONTENTS. 

cultural  Lands — Copper  Regions — Mining  Companies — Climate,  Soil  and 
Productions . 531 

The  Rocky  Mountains. — Extent — Peaks — Branches — Plateaus — Passes — Ge- 
ology— Volcanic  Rocks — Hot  Springs,  etc 547 

Wisconsin. — Boundaries — Face  of  Country — Geology — Minerals — Lakes  and 
Rivers — Objects  of  Interest — Climate,  Soil  and  Productions — Forest  Trees 
— Animals — Manufactures' — Commerce — Internal  Improvements  —  Educa- 
tion— Religious  Denominations — Periodicals — Public  Institutions — Popula- 
tion— Counties,  Cities  and  Towns — Government,  Finances,  Banks,  etc. — 
History — Milwaukee — Racine — Madison — Kenosha 550 

Illinois. — Boundaries — Face  of  Country,  etc. — Minerals — Rivers — Objects  of 
Interest — Climate,  Soil  and  Productions — Forest  Trees — Manufactures — 
Internal  Improvements — Commerce — Education — Religion — Periodicals — 
Public  Iustitutions — Population — Counties,  Cities  and  Towns — Govern- 
ment—  History — Chicago — Its  Commerce  and  Manufactures  —  Quiucy — 
Peoria — Galena — Alton 562 

Indiana. — Boundaries — Face  of  Country — Minerals  —  Rivers  and  Lakes — 
Objects  of  Interest — Climate,  Soil  and  Productions — Census  Statistics — 
Manufactures — Internal  Improvements — Commerce — Education — Religious 
Denominations — Periodicals — Public  Institutions — Population — Counties, 
Cities  and  Towns — Government — Banks  and  Finances — History — India- 
napolis— Madison — New  Albany — Fort  Wayne — Lafayette 574 

Iowa  . — Boundaries — Face  of  Country — Geology — Minerals — Rivers — Objects 
of  Interest — Climate,  Soil  and  Productions — Forest  Trees — Manufactures — 
Internal  Improvements — Commerce — Education — Periodicals — Public  In- 
stitutions— Population — Counties,  Cities  and  Towns — Government — Finan- 
ces, Banks,  etc. — History — Iowa  City — Burlington — Dubuque — Davenport 
— Keokuk — Muscatine — Council  Bluffs— Fort  Des  Moines — Fort  Madison.     583 

Missouri. — The  Missouri  River  described — Boundaries  of  the  State — Face  of 
the  Country — Minerals — Coal — Rivers — Objects  of  Interest — Climate,  Soil 
and  Productions — Forest  and  Fruit  Trees — Manufactures — Internal  Im- 
provements —  Commerce  —  Education  —  Religion  —  Public  Institutions  — 
Population — Counties,  Cities  and  Towns — Government — Finances — His- 
tory— St.  Louis — Its  Streets,  Public  Buildings,  Hotels,  Institutions,  Real 
Estate,  Improvements,  Manufactures,  Shipping,  Commerce  and  History — 
St.  Josephs — Hannibal — Jefferson  City — Independence,  etc 592 

Arkansas. — Boundaries — Face  of  Country — Objects  of  Interest — Climate,  Soil 
and  Productions — Manufactures — Internal  Improvements — Commerce — 
Population — Counties,  Cities  and  towns — Government — Finances — History 
Little  Rock — Van  Buren — Camden — Batesville 610 

Tennessee. — Boundaries — Face  of  the  Country — Minerals — Objects  of  Interest 
— Climate,  Soil  and  Productions — Manufactures — Internal  Improvements 
— Commerce  —  Education  —  Religion  —  Public  Institutions  —  Population — 
Counties,  Cities  and  Towns — Government — Finances — History — Nashville 
— Memphis — Kuoxville — Chattanooga — Columbia — Murfreesborough 618 

Kentucky. — Boundaries — Face  of  the  Country — Geology — Minerals — Rivers 
— Objects  of  Interest — Climate,  Soil  and  Productions — Manufactures — Com- 
merce— Internal  Improvements — Education — Religion — Public  Institutions 
— Population — Counties,  Cities  and  Towns — Government — Finances — His- 
tory— Louisville — Lexington 628 

Tables  of  Distances  from  East  to  West ...     635 


STATES  AND  TERRITORIAL  REGIONS. 


WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 


This  territory  occupies  the  extreme  north-west  portion  of  the  domain 
of  the  United  States.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Straits  of  Juan 
de  Fuca  (which  separate  it  from  Vancouver's  island)  and  British 
America,  east  by  the  Rocky  mountains,  south  by  Oregon,  (the  Columbia 
river  forming  about  half  the  boundary  line,)  and  west  by  the  Pacific 
ocean.  It  lies  (with  the  exception  of  a  small  bend  in  the  Columbia  river) 
between  46°  and  49°  north  latitude,  and  between  110°  and  125°  west 
longitude;  being  about  600  miles  in  its  greatest  length  from  east  to  west, 
and  about  209  in  width  from  north  to  south,  forming  nearly  a  parallelo- 
gram, with  an  area  of  perhaps  123,022  square  miles. 

Face  of  the  Country  and  Mountains. — The  same  general  description 
of  the  surface  as  given  in  Oregon  will  apply  to  "Washington,  except  that 
the  Blue  mountain  range  is  more  broken  and  scattered  north  of  the 
Columbia  river.  The  principal  peaks  of  the  Cascade  range  in  this  division 
are  Mount  St.  Helen's,  Mount  Adams,  Mount  Rainier,  and  Mount  Baker. 
Mount  Olympus,  the  highest  peak  of  the  Coast  range,  has  an  elevation  of 
8,197  feet.  Most  of  these  peaks  are  clothed  with  perpetual  snow.  Mount 
St.  Helen's  and  Mount  Rainier  have  been  respectively  estimated  at  13,300 
and  12,000  feet  elevation. 

Minerals. — There  has  been  little  opportunity  as  yet  to  develop  the  min- 
eral resources  of  this  new  territory.  Coal  has,  however,  been  discovered  on 
or  near  Bellingham  bay,  accompanied  by  the  new  red  sandstone,  which 
furnishes  a  fine  building  material,  20  or  30  miles  up  the  Cowlitz  river, 
and  in  the  region  about  Puget's  sound,  in  abundance.  Fossil  copal  exists 
on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  north  of  the  Columbia  river. 

Rivers,  Bays,  Sounds,  and  Islands. — The  Columbia  river  enters  the 
territory  from  British  America,  and  crosses  it  first  in  a  south-west  "and  then 
in  a  south  direction,  till  it  arrives  a  little  below  46°  north  latitude,  when 
it  turns  westwardly  and  forms  the  south  boundary,  from  the  point  just 
named  to  its  mouth  in  the  Pacific  ocean.  This  river  divides  Washington 
Territory  into  two  parts,  having  the  larger  portion  on  the  east;  the 
Okanagan,  from  British  America,  is  its  principal  branch  on  the  north,  and 
Yakima  in  the  southern  part  of  the  territory:  both  of  these  rivers  enter  the 
30  465 


466  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 

Columbia  from  the  west.  On  the  east,  proceeding  in  order  southwardly, 
its  tributaries  are  the  Flathead  or  Clarke's,  Spokane,  Saptin  or  Lewis, 
and  Walla  Walla  rivers.  The  Clarke's  and  Lewis  are  large  rivers,  having 
their  sources  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  all  run  in  a  north-west  direction. 
The  Lewis  and  Walla  Walla  have  the  principal  part  of  their  courses  in 
Oregon.  The  Spokane  drains  the  middle  of  the  east  division ;  McGillivray's 
or  Flatbow  drains  the  north-east  part  of  Washington,  and  joins  the 
Columbia  in  British  America.  The  Cowlitz,  the  principal  branch  of  the 
Columbia  west  of  the  Cascade  range,  has  a  course  of  perhaps  100  miles. 
Chekalis  or  Chickalees,  about  130  miles  long,  is  the  only  river  of  importance 
discharging  its  waters  directly  into  the  Pacific  from  this  territory,  except 
the  Columbia.  The  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  between  Washington  and 
Vancouver's  island,  connect  the  Pacific  ocean  with  Admiralty  inlet, 
Puget's  sound  and  Hood's  canal,  all  arms  of  a  great  bay  extending  about 
60  or  70  miles  in  a  south  direction  from  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  and  all 
navigable  for  the  largest  ships  which  may  moor  to  the  very  banks,  such  is  the 
precipitousness  of  its  shores.  Gray's  harbor,  an  expansion  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Chekalis  river,  in  about  47°  north  latitude,  has  capacity  for  only 
a  small  amount  of  shiping.  The  Columbia,  though  navigable  for  ocean 
craft  to  the  Cascades,  is  much  obstructed  near  its  mouth  by  sandbars  and 
shallows,  which  make  the  navigation  difficult,  and  have  caused  the  loss 
of  many  vessels.  The  rest  of  this,  as  well  as  other  rivers  in  Washington, 
are  only  navigable  by  boats  and  canoes,  being  much  obstructed  by  rapids 
and  falls.  The  principal  of  these  are  Kettle  falls,  in  the  Columbia  river, 
just  below  the  mouth  of  Clarke's  river.  Shoalwater  bay,  south  of  Gray's 
harbor,  opens  into  the  Pacific  by  a  narrow  inlet.  Bellingham  bay  is  an  arm 
of  the  Gulf  of  Georgia  near  the  north-west  extremity  of  Washington.  A 
large  lake,  surrounded  by  extensive  prairies,  is  reported  to  have  been  found 
some  10  or  20  miles  back  from  the  bay.  Elliott  bay  is  on  the  east  side 
of  Admiralty  inlet.  There  are  several  lakes  in  Washington,  mostly  in  the 
eastern  portion,  near  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  among  which  is 
Flathead  lake,  one  of  the  sources  of  Clark's  river,  and  Lake  Kullespelm 
an  expansion  of  the  same  river.  The  rivers  of  Washington,  particularly 
west  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  having  their  sources  in  those  snowy 
summits,  are  liable  to  sudden  floods,  which  inundate  the  lowlands  on 
their  shores.  The  rapids  and  falls  abound  in  splendid  sites  for  mill-seats. 
Cape  Flattery,  the  entrance  of  Juan  de  Fuca  straits,  and  Cape  Disap- 
pointment, within  the  entrance  of  the  Columbia  river,  are  the  principal 
capes.  There  are  no  large  islands  on  this  coast.  The  most  important  is 
Destruction,  or  Isle  of  Grief,  about  40  miles  south  of  Cape  Flattery. 
In  Admiralty  inlet  is  Whidby's  island,  about  40  miles  long,  covered 
with  fertile  prairies,  and  noted  for  its  deer.  It  has  sufficient  timber,  but 
a  scarcity  of  water.  North-west  of  it  are  the  Arroo  islands,  so  valuable 
for  their  fisheries. 

Objects  of  Interests  to  Tourists. — Washington  shares  with 
Oregon  the  grand  scenery  on  the  Columbia,  the  Cascades,  the  Dalles, 
and  other  interesting  points.  Here  the  lofty  summits  of  Mount  St. 
Helen's,  Mount  Adams,  Mount  Rainier,  and  Mount  Baker  rear  their 
snowy  peaks  from  the   Cascade   range,  and  Mount  Olympus  from  the 


WASHINGTON  TERRITORY.  461} 

Coast  mountains.  According  to  the  Rev.  G.  Hiues,  "Mount  St.  Helen's, 
in  the  month  of  October,  1842,  was  observed  to  be  covered  with  a  dense 
cloud  of  smoke,  which  continued  to  enlarge  and  move  off  to  the  eastward 
filling  the  heavens  in  that  direction,  and  presenting  an  appearance  like 
that  occasioned  by  a  tremendous  conflagration,  viewed  at  a  vast  distance. 
When  the  first  volumes  of  smoke  had  passed  away,  it  could  be  distinctly 
seen  from  various  parts  of  the  country  that  an  eruption  had  taken  place 
on  the  north  side  of  St.  Helen's,  a  little  below  the  summit;  and,  from 
the  smoke  that  continued  to  issue  from  the  chasm  or  crater,  it  was  pro- 
nounced to  be  a  volcano  in  active  operation.  When  the  explosion  took 
place,  the  wind  was  north-west,  and  on  the  same  day,  and  extending  from 
30  to  50  miles  to  the  south-east,  there  fell  showers  of  ashes  or  dust, 
which  covered  the  ground  in  some  places  so  as  to  admit  of  its  being 
collected  in  quantities.  This  last  phenomenon  has  been  of  frequent 
occurrence,  and  has  led  many  to  suppose  that  volcanic  eruptions  are  not 
uncommon  in  this  country." 

Climate,  Soil,  and  Productions. — The  climate  is  very  similar  to 
that  of  Oregon,  with  some  variations  caused  by  difference  of  latitude  and 
local   peculiarities.      The  same  may  be  said  of  the  soil.      The  Cowlitz 
valley  is  the  most  fertile  portion  of  this  territory,  in  which  agriculture 
has  been  attempted.     The  Chekalis  valley  on  the  west,  is  said  to  have 
400,000    acres  of   excellent   prairie   and   heavily  timbered  land.      The 
country  immediately  around  Puget's  sound  is  represented  as  sandy  and 
unfertile,  but  producing  large  fir  and  cedar  trees.    On  going,  however, 
some    distance   back  from  the  sound,  you  come  upon  fine  prairies  and 
forests,  and  small  lakes  filled  with  fine   fish  and  skirted  with  timber. 
Whidby's  Island  is  also  very  fertile,  but  deficient  in  water.     There  are 
reported  to  be  rich  valleys  on  the  streams  flowing  into  Bellingham  bay. 
The  valley  of  the  Duwamish  river,  which  flows  into  Elliott  bay,  is  very 
fertile,  and  is  rapidly  settling.     The  lowlands  bordering  on  the  streams 
are  very  productive,  and  covered  densely  with  timber.  Mr.  T.  Winthrop, 
of  New  York,  who  left  that  region  in  September,  1853,  speaks  of  the 
country  between  Puget's  sound  and  the  Cascade  mountains  as  heavily 
timbered,  chiefly  with  fir,  with  some  scattered  prairies  and  dry  barrens,  the 
latter  covered  with  pebbles  of  trap-rock,  and  sparsely  wooded  with  oak. 
Across    the    mountains,  the   land   is    open   prairie,  well    watered,  with 
small  and  thinly  wooded  valleys.      The  country  to  the  north  of   this, 
belonging  to  the  Flatheads,  Mr.  W.  reports  as  more  abundant  in  timber 
and  well  adapted  to  settlements.     The  arable  land  in  Washington   Terri- 
tory, west  of  the  Columbia  river,  is  estimated  at  22,000  square  miles. 
Its  Governor  thus  spoke  of  its  resources  in  January,  1854 : — "  You  are 
unquestionably  rightly  informed  as  to  the  maritime  advantages  of  Puget's 
sound,  in  affording  a  series  of  harbors  almost  unequaled  in  the  world  for 
capacity,  safety,  and  facility  of  access;  nor  need  you  be  told  of  their 
neighborhood  to  what  are  now  the  best  whaling  grounds  of  the  Pacific. 
It  is,  however,  only    recently  that  the   settlement  of  this  part  of  our 
country  has  commenced  to  develop  its  resources,  or  to  show  the  advan- 
tage which  may  be  derived  from  its  position,  and  it  is  these  points  which 
I  desire  to  bring  to  your  notice.     That  portion  of  Washington  Territory 


468  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 

lying  between  the  Cascade  mountains  and  the  ocean,  although  equaling 
in  richness  of  soil  and  ease  of  transportation  the  best  portion  of  Oregon, 
is  heavily  timbered,  and  time  and  labor  are  required  for  clearing  its 
forests  and  opening  the  earth  to  the  production  of  its  fruits.  The  great 
body  of  the  country  on  the  other  hand,  stretching  eastward  from  that 
range  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  while  it  contains  many  fertile  valleys  and 
much  good  land  suited  to  the  farmer,  is  yet  more  especially  a  grazing 
country,  one  which,  as  population  increases,  promises  in  its  cattle,  its 
horses,  and  above  all,  its  wool,  to  open  a  new  and  vast  field  to  American 
enterprise.  But  in  the  mean  time  the  staple  of  the  land  must  continue 
to  he  the  one  which  nature  herself  has  planted,  in  the  inexhaustible 
forests  of  fir,  of  spruce,  and  of  cedar.  Either  in  furnishing  manufactured 
timber  or  spars  of  the  first  description  for  vessels,  Washington  Territory 
is  unsurpassed  by  any  portion  of  the  Pacific  coast." 

Forest  Trees. — Washington  abounds  in  fine  timber.  Here  is  the 
same  species  of  gigantic  fir  tree  which  is  found  in  Oregon  and  California, 
attaining  a  bight  of  nearly  300  feet,  and  from  8  to  12  feet  in  diameter. 
The  hills  and  valleys  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  territory,  immediately  west 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  are  stated  to  be  covered  with  a  heavy  growth 
of  the  finest  timber.  The  forest  trees  around  Puget's  Sound  are  especial- 
ly large,  and  comprise  yellow  fir,  cedar,  maple,  oak,  ash,  spruce,  hemlock 
and  alder.  A  recent  correspondent  states  that  there  are  at  least  12  saw- 
mills at  work,  and  18  more  in  course  of  construction,  and  that  there  i3 
lumber  enough  ready  to  freight  a  dozen  ships.  The  cedar  tree  of  this 
region  is  represented  as  differing  in  some  respects  from  either  the  red  or 
white  cedar  of  New  England,  though  resembling  both. 

Animals. — The  forests  abound  in  game  and  wild  animals;  among  the 
latter  are  the  elk,  deer,  bear,  fox,  otter,  beaver,  muskrat,  and  rabbit ;  and 
among  birds,  swans,  geese,  brant,  gulls,  ducks,  eagles,  grouse,  pheasants, 
partridges,  woodcock,  hawks,  ravens,  and  robins.  Perhaps  no  region  on 
the  globe  more  abounds  in  fish  than  Washington.  This  is  especially 
true  of  Puget's  sound  and  the  adjoining  waters.  Cod,  mackerel,  halibut, 
herring,  and  flounders ;  and  of  shell-fish,  the  oyster,  crab,  clam,  lobster, 
and  many  other  species  are  found.  The  salmon  resort  to  the  Columbia 
and  its  tributaries  in  immense  shoals. 

Internal  Improvements. — A  road  is  now  being  opened  from 
Puget's  sound  to  Walla  Walla  on  the  Columbia  river,  and  from  thence 
by  the  Cceur  dAlene  Mission  to  St.  Mary's  valley.  The  emigrants, 
says  Mr.  Winthrop,  partially  succeeded,  in  1853,  in  cutting  a  road 
through  the  pass  of  the  Cascade  mountains  north  of  Mount  Rainier. 
The  exploring  party  under  Governor  Stevens  have  recently  found,  near 
the  sources  of  Maria's  river,  a  pass  suitable  for  a  railroad,  estimated  to 
be  2500  feet  lower  than  the  South  Pass  of  Fremont.  The  same  party 
state  that  they  found  on  the  west  side  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  beau- 
tiful rivers,  and  valleys  of  extraordinary  fertility,  covered  with  a  luxuri- 
ant growth  of  magnificent  forest  trees.  Captain  McClelland  has  discov- 
ered two  passes  through  the  Cascade  range  practicable  for  a  railroad. 

Population. — Of  its  population  we  have  no  separate  statistics.  There 
are  several  tribes  of  Indians,  among  which  are  the   Flatheads,   Pend 


OREGON  TERRITORY.  469 

d'Oreilles,  Coeur  d'Alenes,  Spokanes,  and  Nez  Perces,  most  of  whom  are 
friendly,  and  those  on  Puget's  sound  partially  civilized.  They  are  in 
constant  intercourse  with  the  whites,  farming  and  raising  potatoes,  which, 
with  the  salmon,  constitute  their  food. 

Counties. — Washington  is  divided  into  15  counties,  which,  with  their 
county  towns,  are  exhibited  in  the  following  Table : 

County.  County  Seal.  County.  County  Seat. 

1.  Chehalis Bruceville. 

2.  Clallam Port  Discovery. 

3.  Clark Columbia  city. 

4.  CowlitsorCowelitz.  .Monticello. 

5.  IslajR Pennscove. 

6.  Jefferson Port  Townsend. 

7.  King Seattle. 

8.  Lewis Cowlitz'  landing 

Towns. — Olympia,  the  capital,  is  situated  at  the  head  of  Puget's 
sound.  The  other  more  important  towns  or  settlements  are  Nesqually, 
Steilacoom,  New  York,  Seattle,  Port  Townsend,  and  New  Dungeness,  on 
Puget's  sound  and  Admiralty  inlet ;  Pacific  city,  Cathlamet,  Monticello, 
Fort  Vancouver,  and  Cascade  city,  on  the  Columbia  river;  Cowlitz 
forms  and  Wabassport,  on  or  near  the  Cowlitz  river,  and  Pennscove,  on 
Whiddy's  island. 

Government. — The  government  is  in  all  respects  similar  to  that  of 
Oregon,  which  see.  Its  history  is  also  identical  with  that  of  Oregon, 
from  which  it  was  separated  and  formed  into  a  distinct  territory  in  1853. 


9.  Pacific Pacific  city. 

10.  Pierce Steilacoom. 

11.  Skamania Cascades. 

12.  Thurston Olympia. 

13.  Wahkiacuni Chenook. 

14.  Walla  Walla Walla  Walla. 

15.  Whatcom Belliugham  bay. 


OREGON   TERRITORY. 


This  territory,  forming  the  most  western  portion  of  the  domain  of  the 
United  States,  as  restricted  by  the  recent  Act  of  Congress,  creating 
the  Territory  of  Washington,  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Washington 
Territory,  (from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Columbia  river  and  the  46th 
parallel  of  north  latitude;)  east  by  the  Rocky  mountains,  which  divide  it 
from  Nebraska ;  south  by  Utah  Territory  and  the  State  of  California,  and 
west  by  the  Pacific  ocean.  It  lies  between  42°  and  46°  20'  north  lat- 
itude, and  between  109°  30'  and  124°  30'  west  longitude,  being  about 
750  miles  in  extreme  length  from  east  to  west,  and  278  miles  in  width, 
including  an  area  of  185,030  square  miles. 


•170  OREGON  TERRITORY. 

Face  of  the  Country,  Mountains,  etc. — Oregon  is  usually  divided 
into  three  portions,  viz :  the  Lower  country,  or  portion  next  the  ocean  ;  the 
Middle  country,  or  that  part  which  lies  between  the  Cascade  range  and  the 
Blue  mountains;  and  the  Upper  country,  or  that  portion  which  lies  between 
the  Blue  and  Rocky  mountains.  On  approaching  Oregon  from  the  sea,  it 
presents  the  same  bold,  iron-bound  coast  as  California,  but  with  this  differ- 
ence, that  the  Coast  range,  instead  of  running  parallel  with  the  Pacific,  is 
composed  of  a  series  of  highlands,  nearly  at  right  angies  with  the  shore, 
through  whose  valleys  the  streams  of  Callapuya  or  Callapooya  mount  aina 
(the  western  limit  of  the  Willamette  valley)  descend  to  the  ocean.  The 
first  section  is  about  from  75  to  120  miles  in  breadth,  and  includes  th^Willa- 
mette,  Umpqua,  and  Rogue  river  valleys,  the  first  running  parallel  with 
the  sea,  and  the  others  at  right  angles  to  it.  The  last  are  south  of  the 
Willamette  valley.  The  large  valleys  vary  in  length  from  40  to  150 
miles,  and  from  5  to  85  miles  in  width.  One  remarkable  feature  of  the 
Willamette  valley  is  the  Buttes,  high,  conical,  insulated  hills,  of  about 
1000  feet  in  hight.  The  Middle  section  covers  a  breadth  of  160  miles, 
and  is  mostly  an  elevated  plateau.  The  Upper  country  occupies  the 
western  slope  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  is  mostly  a  sterile  and  dreary 
region,  covered  with  lava,  through  which  the  rivers  cut  their  channels  to 
a  great  depth ;  in  many  places  their  rocky  beds  are  inaccessible  to  man 
or  beast.  Oregon  may  be  emphatically  called  a  mountainous  country. 
Beginning  at  the  east,  we  have  the  lofty  summits  of  the  Rocky  mountains 
— reaching  (in  Fremont's  peak)  an  elevation  of  13,570  feet — separating 
the  Mississippi  valley  from  the  Pacific  region,  and  sending  off  spurs  in  a 
westerly  direction.  About  half-way  between  the  Rocky  mountains  and 
the  Pacific  are  the  Blue  mountains,  running  nearly  north  and  south,  but 
still  sending  off  ridges  in  different  directions.  These  mountains  some- 
times rise  to  the  snow  region,  but  are  generally  from  3,000  to  4,000  feet 
in  hight.  The  Cascade  range,  having  the  loftiest  known  peaks  of  any 
mountains  in  the  United  States,  extend  from  60°  north  latitude  (nearly 
parallel  with  the  Pacific)  to  the  southern  part  of  Old  California,  at 
distances  (in  Oregon)  varying  from  about  80  to  1-40  miles.  Mount 
Hood,  Mount  Jefferson,  Mount  Pitt  or  McLaughlin  are  the  principal 
peaks  in  Oregon,  of  which  the  first,  14,000  feet  in  elevation  above  the 
sea  level,  is  the  highest,  and  seems  to  be  a  dormant  volcano.  Finally 
comes  the  Coast  range,  called  in  Oregon  the  Callapooya  mountains;  these, 
as  has  been  stated,  send  off  spurs  at  right  angles  with  the  ocean.  The 
Three  Buttes  and  Three  Tetons,  about  the  bases  of  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains, are  conical  elevations  of  considerable  magnitude.  The  Salmon 
mountains  cross  the  middle  of  the  eastern  portion  of  Oregon  in  an  east 
and  west  direction. 

Minerals. — The  mineral  resources  of  Oregon  have  scarcely  begun  to 
be  developed;  but  gold  has  been  found  in  various  places,  from  Po^t  Or- 
ford  to  Burnt  and  Powder  rivers,  but  whether  it  exists  in  p  >Ccient 
abundance  to  promise  profitable  returns  is  not  yet  fully  ascertain'  -4.  The 
Secretary  of  the  Treasury's  report  for  1854,  gives  $13,535  as  tb  •  amount 
of  gold  deposited  at  the  Mint,  the  product  of  Oregon.  Frem'  At  found, 
in  latitude  45^°  north,  longitude  122°  west,  a  stratum  of  coal  *nd  forest 


OREGON  TERRITORY.  471 

trees  embedded  between  strata  of  alternate  clay.     This  mineral  is  also 
known  to  exist  in  Willamette  valley,  100  miles  above  Oregon  city. 

Rivers,  Bats,  and  Lakes. — There  is  no  very  considerable  bay  in 
Oregon.     The  Columbia,  the   greatest  river  on  the  Pacific  slope  of  the 
continent,   forms  half  the  northern  boundary,  from   the  point  where  it 
strikes  the  46th  parallel  to  its  mouth  in  the  Pacific  ocean.       Its  great 
branch,  the  Snake  or  Lewis  river,  and  its  tributaries,  the  Salmon,  Henry, 
Malheur,  and  Owyhee,  drain   the   great  valley  between   the   Rocky  and 
Blue  mountains.  "  Lewis  river  rises  in  the  south-east,    and  pursuing  a 
north-west  course  about  900   miles,  passes  into  Washington    Territory, 
where  k  joins  the  Columbia  soon  after.  The  Walla  Walla.  Umatilla,  John 
Day's,  and   Fall,  east  of  the   Cascade  mountains,  and   the    Willamette, 
west,  are  the  other  principal  affluents  of  the  Columbia  from  this  territory. 
The  Umpqua  and  Rogue's  river  (entirely  in  Oregon),  and  the  Klamath, 
which  passes  into  California,  empty  directly  into  the  Pacific  from  the 
south-west  of  this  territory.     There  are  several  small  lakes  between  the 
Cascade  and  Blue  mountains,  and  near  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 
The  principal  of  the  former  are  Klamath,  Albert,  Pitt's,  Salt,  and  Synal- 
illes;  and  of  the  latter  Godere  and  Jackson's.     The  Columbia  is  naviga- 
ble to  the  Cascade  ran^e,  about  130  miles  from  the  sea,  for  large  vessels, 
and  above  the  Cascades  for  boats.     The  Willamette  is  navigable  to  Port- 
land, and  sometimes  even  to  the  falls,  for  ocean  craft.     Above  the  falls, 
larse  steamboats  may  run  for  80  miles  during  8  montbs.     The  Umpqua 
is  navigable  25  miles  for  steamers,  and  vessels  drawing  12  feet  may  enter 
its  mouth.     The  Klamath  is  also  navigable  for  a  short  distance.     There 
are  few  capes  or  harbors  on  the  coast  of  Oregon,  whicb  is  remarkably 
free  from  great  sinuosities.     The  most  important  capes  are  Cape  Blanco 
or  Orford,  Cape  Foulweather,  and  Point  Adams.     The  harbors  are  the 
Columbia  river,  much  obstructed  by  sandbars  and  shoals,  but  admitting 
vessels   of    16   feet    draugbt,  and   the   Umpqua    river,  which  may  be 
ascended  by  vessels  drawing  8  feet  water  for  a  short  distance. 

Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists. — What  we  bave  already  said  of 
the  mountains  is  perhaps  sufficient,  without  tbis  beading;  but  Oregon 
has  other  objects  of  interest  independent  of  ber  sublime  mountain 
scenery — first  among  which  are  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia  river,  a  nar- 
rowing of  the  channel  to  100  yards  between  basaltic  rocks,  for  the  dis- 
tance  of  half  a  mile,  through  which  the  river  rushes  with  great  violence, 
descending  50  feet  in  two  miles.  In  freshets  the  water  rises  60  feet,  and 
at  such  times  it  is  safe  to  pass  in  boats,  but  many  serious  accidents  have 
occurred  from  attempts  to  pass  them  at  low  water.  Forty  miles  below 
the  Dalles,  where  the  river  breaks  through  the  Cascade  range,  the  chan- 
nel  again  narrows  to  150  yards,  where  the  water  descends  40  feet  in  two 
miles.  The  falls  of  the  Willamette,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  ar 
about  25  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  the  same  number  of  feet  in  hight. 
Here  is  a  favorite  salmon  fishery,  where  that  fish  is  stopped  on  its  course 
up  the  Willamette,  in  the  spawning  season.  The  American  fall,  in  the 
Lewis  river,  near  its  head  waters,  is  of  considerable  elevation.  From  one 
point  in  the  Willamette  valley,  near  the  Rickreall  river,  seven  peaks  of 
the  Cascade  range,  covered  with  everlasting  snow,  can  be  seen  at  one  view. 


472  OREGON  TERRITORY 

Climate. — In  common  with  the  western  shore  of  all  continents, 
Oregon  has  a  milder  climate  than  the  eastern  side  of  North  America. 
The  coast  region  is  the  mildest,  and  the  upper  country  the  most  rigorous 
in  temperature.  In  the  first,  the  winters  generally  are  short,  though 
some  snow  falls  nearly  every  winter.  South  and  south-west  winds  pre- 
vail at  this  season,  mitigating  the  severity  of  the  climate.  From  April 
to  November  but  little  rain  falls.  At  Fort  Vancouver,  from  June  to 
September,  the  mean  temperature  was  67°,  maximum  98°,  minimum  51°. 
Of  106  days,  76  were  fair,  19  cloudy,  and  11  rainy.  The  winter  of 
1852-3  was  very  severe,  and  much  snow  fell,  the  stock  dying  by  thou- 
sands, as  they  are  unhoused,  and  no  fodder  is  ever  prepared.  J[n  the 
middle  region,  the  summers  are  much  dryer  and  the  winters  colder  than 
east  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  the  extremes  varying  from  18°  to  108°. 
Daily  range,  40°.  No  dews  fall  here.  The  upper  country  is  variable, 
having  often  in  each  day  all  the  changes  of  the  seasons,  and  is  therefore 
unfitted  for  agricultural  operations.  Indian  corn  is  liable  to  be  caught 
by  early  frosts.  The  winter  winds  are  from  the  south  and  east,  occasion- 
ally veering  to  south-west.  The  time  of  the  setting  in  of  these  is  very 
irregular,  varying  from  October  1st  to  January  1st.  They  always  bring 
with  them  copious  rains,  which  last  two  or  three,  and  even  four  or  five 
months,  from  November  to  April,  and  constitute  the  rainy  season. 
These  storms  are  more  violent  on  the  coast,  and  more  rain  falls  than  in 
the  Willamette  valley.  A  period  of  fine  weather  often  occurs  in  Feb- 
ruary, sometimes  in  March,  but  is  generally  followed  by  three  or  four 
weeks  of  cold,  chilly  rains  from  the  south-west.  During  the  latter  part 
of  winter  there  are  light  falls  of  snow.  Though  the  winters  are  chilly, 
the  thermometer  seldom  sinks  to  the  freezing  point.  The  mercury  has 
sometimes  fallen  to  5°  degrees  below  zero  in  the  Willamette  valley,  and 
to  15°  at  the  Dalles,  beyond  the  Cascade  mountains.  From  what  has 
been  said  it  will  be  seen  that  there  is  great  irregularity  in  the  winters  of 
Oregon,  but  mildness  is  the  general  characteristic.  In  the  middle  region 
the  rains  are  lighter  and  less  constant,  and  continue  for  a  shorter  period. 
The  country  between  the  Blue  and  Rocky  mountains  is  very  dry,  with  a 
great  difference  between  the  temperature  of  day  and  night. 

Soil  and  Productions. — It  will  be  inferred  from  what  has  been  said 
of  the  face  of  the  country,  that  much  of  Oregon  is  unfit  for  tillage ;  in 
the  upper  country  or  eastern  portion  it  is  almost  wholly  so,  as  far  as 
known,  both  from  the  aridity  of  the  soil,  and  the  irregularity  of  the 
climate.  The  central  portion,  though  not  generally  cultivable,  affords  in 
many  places  excellent  pasturage;  but  even  the  pastoral  portion  is  but  a 
small  part  of  the  whole.  The  great  resource  of  the  Oregonian  farmers 
is  the  country  west  of  the  Cascade  range,  especially  in  the  Willamette, 
Umpqua,  and  Rogue's  river  valleys.  The  former  is  rarely  surpassed 
in  fertility.  Wheat  is  here  the  staple;  the  cool  evenings  and  the  drought 
in  the  latter  part  of  summer  being  unfavorable  to  Indian  corn.  Besides 
wheat,  oats,  barley,  turnips,  and  most  of  the  fruits  and  vegetables  of  the 
Middle  States  flourish.  The  indigenous  fruits  are  the  crabapple,  a  large 
red  plum,  strawberries,  raspberries,  and  other  berries.  The  bottoms  of 
the  Columbia  are  a  very  rich  alluvion,  but  incapable  of  cultivation,  from 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  473 

their  liability  to  be  overflowed;  they  may,  however,  form  good  pasture- 
lands  for  stock.  Those  portions  which  are  beyond  the  reach  of  overflow 
(as  the  district  about  Fort  Vancouver)  are  exceedingly  productive.  On 
the  triangle  formed  by  the  Columbia  on  the  north  and  the  Pacific  on  the 
west  is  a  tract  of  land  of  great  fertility,  extending  back  25  miles  to  the 
mountains.  This  is  not  suited  to  wheat,  but  very  fruitful  in  potatoes, 
oats,  peas,  turnips,  and  other  vegetables,  and  is  excellent  for  pasturage. 
According  to  the  census  of  1850,  Oregon  had  under  cultivation  132,857 
acres  of  land,  producing  211,942  bushels  of  wheat;  106  of  rjTe;  2.913 
of  Indian  corn;  61,211  of  oats ;  6,566  of  peas  and  beans;  91,326  of 
potatoes;  29,686  pounds  of  wool;  211,161  of  butter;  36,9S0  of  cheese; 
orchard  products  valued  at  $1,271  J  market  products,  §90,241;  live  stock, 
§1,876,189;  and  slaughtered  animals,  §164,530. 

Forest  Trees. — Oregon  is  particularly  celebrated  for  its  forests  cf 
gigantic  pine.  A  species  of  fir,  called  Lambert's  pine,  grows  in  the  lower 
region  to  an  enormous  size,  sometimes  attaining  a  bight  of  nearly  300 
feet,  and  a  girth  of  40  feet,  and  often  from  24  to  36  feet.  This  is  the 
great  timber  of  the  country,  and  is  largely  exported  to  the  Sandwich 
Islands  and  to  California.  The  other  timber  is  the  hemlock,  cedar,  oak 
ash,  maple,  laurel,  pine,  willow,  balm  of  Gilead,  dogwood,  cottonwood  and 
alder.  The  oak,  next  to  the  fir,  is  the  most  valuable  wood,  and  is  found 
mostly  in  the  Willamette  and  Umpqua  valleys.  In  the  middle  region 
timber  is  scarce,  and  consists  mostly  of  soft  wood ;  pine  and  fir  grow  on 
the  Blue  mountains. 

Animals. — The  wild  animals  are  deer,  black  and  grizzly  bears,  elks, 
foxes,  wolves,  antelopes,  beavers,  muskrats  and  martens.  The  beavers  are 
fast  diminishing.  In  spring  and  fall,  geese,  ducks,  and  other  waterfowl 
are  abundant.  Large  quantities  of  salmon  are  caught  in  the  Columbia 
river  and  its  tributaries,  and  are  of  excellent  quality.  Among  the  other 
fish  are  sturgeon,  cod,  carp,  sole,  flounders,  ray,  perch,  herring,  and  smelt, 
with  crabs,  clams,  oysters,  and  mussels  in  abundance. 

Manufactures. — In  jkis  department  of  industry  it  is  hardly  to  be 
supposed  that  this  new  region  has  made  much  progress,  though  she  has 
every  facility  for  carrying  on  manufactures  when  the  time  comes  for  doing 
so.  In  1850  there  were  52  establishments  engaged  in  mining,  manufac- 
turing, and  the  mechanic  arts,  employing  §843,600,  and  285  male  and  32 
female  hands,  consuming  raw  material  worth  §809,560,  and  yielding 
products  valued  at  §2,236,640. 

Internal  Improvements  are  limited,  as  yet,  to  common  and  plank 
road  making.  Dr.  Evans,  geologist  to  Governor  Stevens'  exploring  expe- 
dition, reports  a  new  route  south  of  the  Missouri  river,  feasible  for  a 
railroad  through  the  Black  Feet  Pass,  down  the  Bitter  Root  river,  cross- 
ing the  mountains  of  the  same  name  to  Fort  Walla  Walla  and  the  Dalles. 
Commerce. — We  have  but  few  facts  on  this  subject.  The  foreign 
imports  amounted  in  1853-1  to  §48,932,  and  the  exports  to  §42,827; 
tonnage  entered  to  231,  and  cleared  to  1,003  tons.  Several  steamers  ply 
from  Portland  to  different  points  on  the  Columbia,  beside  a  regular  line 
of  steamers  to  San  Francisco.  Oregon  exports  to  California,  lumber, 
stock,  hogs,  beef,  butter,  eggs,  chickens,  pork,  flour,  etc.     Large  quantities 


474  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

of  cattle  are  driven  south  to  the  mines  of  California.  Trade  is  carried  on 
with  Rio  Janerio,  Europe,  and  the  Sandwich  Islands.  In  10  months 
preceding  August,  1854,  the  arrivals  at  Astoria  were  179,  clearances  184. 
The  export  of  lumber  alone  reached  22,567,000  feet. 

Education. — The  census  report  for  1850  gives  to  Oregon  3  public 
achools  with  80  pupils,  and  $3,927  income;  29  academies  with  842  pupils, 
and  $20,888  income;  and  1,877  pupils  attending  schools,  as  returned  by 
families.  Adults  who  could  not  read  and  write  162,  of  whom  63  were  of 
foreign  birth.  Oregon  Institute,  belonging  to  the  Methodists,  6  miles 
from  Salem,  is  a  flourishing  establishment,  with  about  100  students.  The 
Presbyterians  have  an  academy  on  Tualatin  Plains,  and  there  are  two 
female  institutes  at  Oregon  city. 

Religious  Denominations. — Of  the  9  churches  in  Oregon  in  1850, 
1  each  belonged  to  the  Baptists,  Congregationalists,  Methodists  and  Pres- 
byterians, and  5  to  the  Roman  Catholics,  being  one  church  to  every  1,477 
persons.     Value  of  church  property,  $76,520. 

Population. — The  population  of  Oregon,  including  the  present  Terri- 
tory of  Washington,  was,  in  1850,  13,294,  of  whom  8,133  were  white 
males,  4,949  females;  120  colored  males,  and  87  females;  besides  various 
tribes  of  Indians  not  enumerated,  but  estimated  by  the  Commissioner  of 
Indian  Affairs,  in  1853,  at  23,000,  for  Washington  and  Oregon  united. 
Notwithstanding  the  formation  of  Washington  Territory  from  Oregon,  so 
great  has  been  the  influx  of  emigration,  that  the  figures  given  above  very 
inadequately  represent  the  population  of  the  territory,  which,  if  recent 
statements  may  be  relied  on,  has  more  than  quadrupled  since  that  time. 
The  increase  has  been  such  as  to  induce  the  inhabitants  to  sue  for  admis- 
sion as  a  state,  in  1855.  Of  the  population,  3,175  were  born  in  the 
territory;  8,847  in  other  states  of  the  Union;  207  in  England;  196  in 
Ireland;  115  in  Scotland  and  Wales;  293  in  British  America;  155  in 
Germany;  45  in  France;  148  in  other  countries;  and  143  whose  places 
of  birth  were  unknown;  5  were  insane,  and  4  idiotic. 

Counties* — In  1855,  Oregon  had  20  counties,  viz:  Benton,  Clackamas, 
Clark,  Clatsop,  Columbia,  Douglas,  Jackson,  Lane,  Lewis,  Linn,  Marion, 
Multnomah,  Pacific,  Polk,  Thurston,  Umpqua,  Vancouver,  Washington, 
Wascopum,  and  Yam-Hill. 

Towns. — The  principal  towns  are  Portland  (population  in  1853,  6,000), 
Oregon  city,  Salem,  and  Milton,  having  each  about  1,000  inhabitants. 

Government. — The  government  is  similar  to  that  of  all  other  territo- 
ries.— See  New  Mexico,  etc. 

History. — Oregon  seems  to  have  been  first  trodden  by  European  feefc 
about  1775,  when  a  Spanish  navigator  visited  Juan  de  Fuca  straits. 
Cook  coasted  along  its  shores  in  1778.  The  Columbia  river  is  believed 
to  have  first  made  known  to  the  civilized  world  in  1791,  by  Captain  Gray, 
of  the  ship  Columbia,  of  Boston,  United  States,  who  saw  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  but  did  not  enter  it  till  May  of  the  next  year,  when  he  gave  it 
the  name  of  his  ship.  From  this  time  up  to  1804,  the  coast  of  Oregon 
was  occasionally  visited  by  British  and  American  fur-traders.  In  that 
year,  President  Jefferson  sent  out  an  exploring  party,  under  Lewis  and 
Clarke,  who  passed  the  winter  of  1805-6  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 


CALIFORNIA.  475 

After  this  period,  overland  expeditions  by  fur-traders  became  common, 
and  these,  with  the  British  Hudson  Bay  Company,  held  joint  possession 
of  the  country  (but  not  without  jealous  rivalries  and  bloody  contests), 
till  the  treaty  of  1846,  which  gave  all  below  49°  north  latitude  to  the 
United  States.  Emigration  from  the  United  States,  for  the  purpose  of 
settlement,  commenced  in  1839.  Its  growth  for  the  time  is  probably 
retarded  by  the  gold  mines  of  California  attracting  nearly  all  travelers 
and  settlers,  but  their  ultimate  prosperity  will  most  likely  be  mutual,  the 
mining  population  of  the  one  furnishing  a  market  for  the  agricultural 
products  of  the  other.  There  is  no  doubt  that  in  future  times  Oregon 
will  play  an  important  part  in  the  commerce  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and 
particularly  that  of  the  Polynesian  groups.  In  1853  the  territory  of 
Washington  was  separated  from  the  north  part  of  Oregon. 


CALIFORNIA. 


California  is  the  most  western  of  the  present  United  States,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Oregon,  east  by  Utah,  (from  which  it  is  partly 
separated  by  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains,)  and  New  Mexico  south  by 
the  Mexican  Territory  of  Old  California,  and  west  by  the  Pacific.  It 
lies  between  32°20'and  42°  north  lat.,and  between  about  114°20'and 
124°  30v  west  longitude.  California  is  very  irregular  in  shape,  having 
its  greatest  length  (about  720  miles)  in  a  north-west  and  south-east 
direction,  and  is  about  240  miles  in  breadth,  including  an  area  of 
188,982  square  miles,  or  120,000,000  acres. 

Face  of  the  Country. — As  the  voyager  sails  along  the  coast  of 
California,  he  looks  upon  a  low  range  of  mountains,  which  in  many  in 
stances  approach  to  the  water's  edge,  and  form  a  bluff,  iron-bound  coast, 
through  which  it  enters,  by  a  narrow  strait  named  the  Golden  Grate,  the 
Bay  of  San  Francisco.  Following  these  low  mountains  on  the  coast 
north  of  the  Golden  Gate,  is  a  broken  and  hilly  country,  to  which  suc- 
ceeds the  Coast  range,  entering  from  Oregon,  and  extending  nearly 
parallel  with  the  ocean,  at  distances  varying  from  30  to  100  miles,  till  it 
reaches  the  35th  parallel  of  north  latitude,  where  it  unites  with  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  and  passes  into  Old  California.  This  range  varies  gen- 
erally from  500  to  5,000  feet.  Mount  Linn,  in  latitude  40°,  is  the 
hightest  known  peak  of  this  part  of  the  Coast  range,  but  its  latitude  has 
not  been  ascertained.     South  of  the  Golden  Gate,  San  Bernardino,  in 


476  CALIFORNIA. 

latitude  34°,  attains  an  elevation  of  about  17,000  feet.  In  this  portion, 
between  the  Sierra  Morena  mountains  (near  the  Pacific)  and  the  Coast 
range,  lie  the  valleys  of  the  San  Juan  and  of  the  Buenaventura,  which 
have  their  outlets  in  the  Pacific  ocean.  The  latter  is  60  miles  long,  and 
from  15  to  20  wide.  The  Sierra  Morena,  or  Brown  mountains  (2,000 
feet  high,)  descend  toward  the  G-olden  Gate,  of  which  they  form  the 
southern  wall.  The  mountains  immediately  on  the  coasts  bear  various 
local  names.  Table  Hill,  on  the  north  side  of  the  strait  leading  into 
San  Francisco  bay,  is  2,569  feet  high,  and  Mount  Diablo,  east  of  San 
Francisco,  3,770  feet  in  hight.  Near  the  northern  boundary  of  the 
State,  in  a  spur  of  mountains  running  north-east  from  the  Coast  range 
to  the  Sierra  Nevada,  is  Mount  Shasta,  having  an  elevation  of  14,400 
feet;  it  is  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  In  Shasta  county  is  also  Mount 
St.  Joseph's,  12,000  feet  high.  The  great  valley  of  the  Sacramento  and 
San  Joaquin  extends  from  north  to  south  about  500  miles,  with  an 
average  breadth  of  about  60  miles,  bounded  by  the  Coast  range  on  the 
west,  and  by  the  Sierra  Nevada  on  the  east.  From  a  base  of 
about  500  feet  above  the  sea  commences  the  ascent  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  the  acclivities  being  wooded  to  about  half  the  mountain's 
hight  with  oak,  succeeded  by  a  forest  of  gigantic  pines,  cedars,  and 
cypress  ;  then  follows  the  naked  granite,  and  lastly,  the  summits  crowned 
with  perpetual  snow.  At  the  north  end  of  the  Sacramento  valley  is  a 
second  higher  valley,  of  about  100  miles  in  length,  and  some  thousands 
of  feet  in  elevation,  heavily  timbered,  and  containing  tracts  of  arable 
land  along  the  streams.  The  Sierra  Nevada  range  may  be  regarded  as  a 
continuation  of  the  Cascade  mountains  of  Oregon.  It  extends  almost 
directly  south,  till  it  unites  with  the  Coast  range  in  latitude  34°  north, 
forming  in  its  course  the  east  boundary  of  California,  as  far  as  the  39th 
degree  of  north  latitude,  near  which  is  Fremont's  Pass,  7,200  feet  above 
the  sea  level.  There  is  a  volcano  in  Calaveras  county,  near  the  sources  of 
Jackson's  river.  On  the  western  slope  of  these  mountains,  mostly  between 
37°  and  40°  north  latitude,  are  the  celebrated  "  gold  diggings,"  toward 
which  the  eyes  of  those  "  who  make  haste  to  be  rich"  have  been  so 
eagerly  turned  since  the  first  discovery  of  gold  in  Sutter's  mill-race 
in  1847. 

G-eology. — We  have  had  no  full  and  complete  geological  survey  of 
California.  According  to  Mr.  Tyson's  survey,  speaking  generally,  a  sec- 
tion across  the  State,  from  Bodga  bay,  bearing  from  north  80°  east 
to  the  Sierra  Nevada,  exhibits  first,  on  the  western  side,  in  the  coast 
range,  a  sandstone  formation,  with  interpositions  of  leptinite,  clays, 
trachyte,  talcose  slate,  and  trap  rocks;  while  the  recent  sedimentary 
deposits  of  the  Sacramento  valley  rest  upon  beds  of  conglomerate  sand- 
stone and  clay,  and  the  western  declivities  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  consist 
mainly  of  talcose  and  other  slates,  through  which  are  extruded  trappean 
rocks,  leptinite,  granite,  and  serpentine.  A  similar  section  across  the 
State  from  San  Francisco  bay,  bearing  north  70°  east,  exhibits  sand- 
stones with  some  fossil  deposits  east  of  the  bay,  on  the  west  slope,  con- 
glomerate sandstone,  and  slates,  with  trap,  volcanic  tufa,  and  porphyry. 

Minerals. — It  is  almost  superfluous  to  say  that  California  is  one  of 


CALIFORNIA.  477 


the    most   important  mineral  regions  in  the  world,  particularly  in  its 
deposits  of  gold.     The  great  gold  diggings  lie  on  the  western  slope  of 
the   Sierra  Nevada  mountains,  principally  between  37°  and  40°  north 
latitude :  but  the  precious  mineral  has  also  been  found  in  other  quarters 
in  considerable  quantities,  particularly  in  Klamath  county,  in  the  north- 
west, and  in  Shasta  county.     The  gold  first  discovered  was  evidently  not 
in  place,  but  the  washings  from  the  upper  regions;  and  when  that  shall 
have  been  exhausted,  there  are  large  bodies  of  auriferous  quartz,  which 
(with  greater  labor  and  expense)  will  probably  afford  large  supplies  of 
this  metal  for  generations  to  come.     The  amount  of  capital  invested  in 
quartz  mining,  according  to  the  State  census  of  1852,  was  $5,871,401; 
in  placer  and  other  mining  operations,  $3,851,623.     Up  to  November  1, 
1853,  there  had  been  deposited  at  the  United  States  mints,  $204,891,023 
of  California  gold.     The  total  amount  produced  and  distributed  in  all 
directions  down   to  the  close  of  1854,  is   estimated   at  $298,243,938. 
According  to  the  State  census  of  1852,  about  14,000,000  were  invested 
in  mining  operations.     In  addition  to  the  precious  metal  just  noticed, 
there  has  been   found  in  Butte   county. an  abundance   of  quicksilver, 
platina,  iron,  lead,  and  some  silver;  copper  and  silver,  quicksilver,  pla- 
tina,  asphaltum,  marble,  and  granite  occur  in   Marin   county ;    black 
marble  in  Shasta  ;  a  fine-grained  white  marble  and  free-stone  in  Calaveras; 
a  splendid  ledge  of  pure  white  marble  on  the  middle  fork  of  Feather 
river ;  quicksilver  in  Napa ;  rich  silver-mines  and   coal  in  San  Louis 
Obispo;    quicksilver  in  Santa  Clara;    copious  salt  springs  (sufficient, 
report    says,  to  supply  the  State)  in  Shasta;   bituminous  springs  in 
many   places    along    the   coast,    and   hot  sulphur   springy  in  Santa 
Barbora ;  warm  soda  springs  near  Benicia,  in  Solano ;  bituminous  and 
sulphur  springs  in  San  Louis  Obispo;   and  hot,  asphaltum,  and   salt 
springs  in  Los  Angeles  county.  According  to  Professor  Trask,  "platina 
is   widely  distributed;    scarcely  a  section  of   country  where  gold  has 
been  found,  but  that  this  metal  has  been  discovered."     Silver  has  been 
found  in  several  mines  in  the  southern  district,  copper  is  widely  dis- 
tributed, and  chromium  occurs  in  large  quantities  in  serpentine  rocks. 
Diamonds  are  reported  to  have  been  recently  discovered.     The  quicksil- 
ver mines  of  New  Almaden  yield  from  20,000  to  35,000  pounds  per 
week.     Value  exported  from  San  Francisco  in  1853,  $683,189. 

Bays,  Riveks,  Lakes,  etc. — San  Francisco  bay,  the  best  and  most 
capacious  harbor  on  the  Pacific  coast,  (including  the  two  arms,  San 
Pablo  and  San  Francisco  bay  proper,)  perhaps,  70  miles  in  length,  and 
in  the  widest  part  14  miles  broad,  with  a  coast  line  of  275  miles.  A 
strait,  about  2  miles  wide,  and  from  5  to  7  miles  long,  breaking  through 
a  range  of  low  mountains,  connects  it  with  the  ocean.  This  strait  has 
been  termed,  not  inappropriately,  the  Golden  Gate,  as  it  is  the  passage 
through  which  the  multitude  from  every  region  of  the  world  are  con- 
stantly hastening,  in  order  to  gather  the  wealth  of  this  new  and  richer 
El  Dorado.  Within  the  barrier  of  hills  already  alluded  to,  the  bay 
divides  into  two  parts,  the  one  stretching  to  the  south  about  40  miles, 
and  the  other  to  the  north  for  about  30.  On  the  north-west  shore  of 
the  southern  arm  stands  the  city  of  San  Francisco.     The  northern  arm 


478  CALIFORNIA. 

(San  Pablo)  is  united  by  a  second  strait,  Carquinez,  with  Suisun  bay 
directly  east  of  it,  which  is  15  or  20  miles  long.  The  Golden  Gate  is 
the  only  channel  of  communication  between  the  Pacific  and  the  interior 
of  California.  Pelican,  Humboldt,  Bodega,  Sir  Francis  Drake's,  Mon- 
terey, De  los  Esteras,  Santa  Barbara,  San  Pedro,  and  San  Diego,  are  the 
other  bays,  all  opening  into  the  Pacific.  The  Sacramento  and  San 
Joaquin  are  the  principal  rivers  of  California,  and,  running  in  opposite 
directions,  the  former  from  the  north  and  the  latter  from  the  south,  they 
drain  almost  the  entire  valley  between  the  two  great  ranges,  Sierra 
Nevada  and  the  Coast  range,  and  unite  about  15  miles  above  Suisun 
bay,  into  which  they  discharge  their  mingled  waters.  Each  of  these 
rivers  has  a  course  of  from  250  to  300  miles.  All  their  tributaries  of 
importance  descend  the  Sierra  Nevada  slope.  The  principal  of  these, 
commencing  at  the  north,  are  Pitt,  the  Feather,  Yuba,  and  American  ; 
and  of  the  San  Joaquin,  the  Calaveras,  the  Stanislaus,  the  Tuolumne, 
and  Merced  rivers.  The  Moquelumne  meets  the  Sacramento  and  San 
Joaquin  near  their  junction.  The  Sacramento  has  been  ascended  by 
small  steamers  as  far  as  Marysville,  the  San  Joaquin  as  far  as  Fort 
Miller,  and  the  Merced  for  20  miles.  The  Klamath  river  from  Oregon 
runs  through  the  north-west  part  of  the  State,  and  the  Buenaventura 
drains  part  of  the  valley  between  the  Sierra  Morena  and  Coast  moun- 
tains ;  both  empty  into  the  Pacific.  The  principal  lakes  are  Tulare 
lake,  about  60  miles  long,  in  the  south,  which  has  an  outlet  into  the 
San  Joaquin  river,  and  Clear  lake,  in  Mendocino  county,  Owen  moun- 
tain and  Mono  lakes,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  State,  are  all  small. 

Objects  op  Interest  to  Tourists. — Though  California  is  not  sur- 
passed by  any  State  in  the  Union  in  grand  and  sublime  scenery,  the 
greater  part  of  it  is  as  yet  too  imperfectly  explored  to  justify  our  speak- 
ing of  it  except  in  very  general  terms.  Not  to  repeat  what  has  already 
been  said  of  the  magnificent  mountain  ranges,  with  their  summits  clad 
with  everlasting  snow,  we  may  notice  a  few  natural  curiosities  of  quite 
a  different  character.  Among  the  most  remarkable  of  these  are  the  hot 
sulphur  springs,  the  Geysers  of  America,  in  Napa  county,  about  70 
miles  north  of  the  city  of  this  name.  They  are  from  1  to  9  feet  in 
diameter,  and  constantly  in  boiling  state,  ejecting  water  to  hights  of  10 
or  15  feet.  Hundreds  of  fissures  in  the  sides  of  the  mountains  emit 
strong  currents  of  heated  gas,  with  a  noise  resembling  that  of  vapor 
escaping  from  ocean  steamers.  We  condense  the  following  from  Silli- 
man's  Journal  of  November,  1851,  by  Professor  Sheppard : — "  From  a 
high  peak  we  saw  on  the  west  the  Pacific,  on  the  south  Mount  Diablo 
and  San  Francisco  bay,  on  the  east  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  on  the  north 
opened  at  our  feet  an  immense  chasm,  from  which,  at  the  distance  of  from 
4  to  5  miles,  we  distinctly  saw  dense  columns  of  steam  rising.  Descend- 
ing, we  discovered  within  half  a  mile  square  from  100  to  200  openings, 
whence  issued  dense  columns  of  vapor  to  the  hight  of  from  150  to  200 
feet,  accompanied  by  a  roar  which  could  be  heard  for  a  mile  or  more. 
Many  acted  spasmodically,  throwing  up  jets  of  hot,  scalding  water  to  the 
hight  of  20  to  30  feet.  Beneath  your  footsteps  you  hear  the  lashing 
and  foaming  gyrations ;  and  on  cutting  through  the  surface,  are  disclosed 


CALIFORNIA.  479 

streams  of  angry,  boiling  water.  'The  Three  Buttes,'  says  Lieutenant 
Derby,  'have  been  erroneously  represented,  since  they  are  in  reality  a 
range  of  about  12  miles  in  width  by  6  in  breadth,  and  contain,  perhaps, 
20  peaks;  the  highest  of  wbich,  and  the  most  interesting,  is  that  on  the 
north,  which  is  a  very  steep  cone,  surmounted  by  a  turret-shaped  rock; 
56  feet  high,  and  has  an  elevation  of  2,483  feet; '  (Capron  says  4,000 
feet.)  This  commands  an  extensive  view  from  the  Coast  range  to  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  and  for,  perhaps,  80  miles  up  and  down  the  Sacramento 
valley,  and  will  doubtless  one  day  be  one  of  the  fashionable  resorts  of  the 
San  Franciscans."  (For  Springs,  see  Minerals.)  Among  the  moun- 
tains not  named  in  the  general  survey,  are  Mount  Prospect,  5,000  feet 
high,  and  Salmon  Mountain,  covered  with  snow  nine  month  is  in  the 
year,  both  in  Klamath  county;  Mount  St.  Helen's,  3,500  feet,  in  Napa; 
Saddle  Peak,  7,200  feet;  Table  mountain,  8,000  feet;  and  Butte,  at  the 
head  of  South  fork,  9,000  feet  in  hight,  all  in  the  Sierra  Nevada  moun- 
tains; two  double  peaks,  conspicuous  landmarks,  in  Solano;  and 
Oregon  hill,  2,800  feet  high,  in  Yuba  county.  Near  Vallecita,  on  Chyote 
creek,  in  Calaveras  county,  is  a  striking  display  of  volcanic  action  in 
the  shape  of  what  are  called  the  natural  bridges ;  two  immense  arches, 
thrown  over  the  above-named  creek,  and  covered  with  imitations  of 
clusters  of  fruits  and  flowers,  doubtless  formed  when  the  mass  was  first 
upheaved  in  a  molten  state.  In  the  same  vicinity  is  "Chyote  Cave,"  a 
deep  semicircular  chasm,  entered  by  a  perpendicular  descent  of  100  feet, 
and  then  proceeding  by  a  gradual  slope  till  it  reaches  a  depth  of  nearly 
200  feet  below  the  surface,  where  you  come  to  a  chamber  called  "  The 
Cathedral,"  from  its  containing  two  stones,  resembling  bells,  which, 
when  struck,  produce  a  chiming  sound.  Proceeding  100  feet  further, 
always  on  the  descent,  a  lake  is  reached  of  great  depth,  and  apparently 
covering  many  acres;  but  the  exploration  has  not  yet  been  carried  be- 
yond this  point.  The  roof  of  the  cave  is  studded  with  stalactites, 
assuming  various  fantastic  forms. 

Climate,  Soil,  and  Productions. — The  climate  of  California  is 
much  milder,  even  at  considerable  elevations,  than  in  the  same  latitude 
on  the  Atlantic  border,  and  the  winters  are  short  and  seldom  severe.  At 
San  Francisco  the  mercury  seldom  rises  above  80°,  but  has  at  times 
risen  at  98°  in  September;  yet  the  temperature  often  varies  30°  in  24 
hours;  in  the  rainy  season  the  thermometer  rarely  sinks  below  49°.  On 
the  coast,  generally,  snow  is  a  rarity.  The  summers  of  San  Francisco, 
and  other  parts  near  the  sea,  are  more  disagreeable  than  the  winters, 
owing  to  the  prevalence  of  north-west  winds  from  the  ocean,  which 
bring  with  them  chilling  fogs.  In  the  hot  season  these  winds  set  in  at 
San  Francisco  about  9  or  10  o'clock,  and  are  poured  through  the  Golden 
J  Gate  directly  upon  the  city,  producing  a  chilling  effect  contrasted  with 
the  heat  of  the  morning.  The  sheltered  valleys  along  the  coast  enjoy  a 
delicious  climate,  equally  removed  from  the  chilliness  of  the  exposed 
parts  of  the  coast,  and  the  heat  of  the  great  valley  between  the  Coast 
range  and  the  Sierra  Nevada.  In  any  country  ranging  through  10°  of 
latitude,  the  difference^  of  temperature  would  be  considerable ;  but  in 
California  this  difference  is  greatly  increased  by  the  peculiarities  of  its 


4 


480  CALIFORNIA. 

surface,  insomuch  that  no  general  statement  would  be  at  all  correct. 
The  northern  portion  has  more  of  the  chilling  fogs  of  the  warm  season, 
and  more  and  longer  rains  in  the  wet  season,  than  the  southern  portion  ; 
and  in  the  great  valleys  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin,  the  heat  is 
much  greater  in  summer  than  near  the  coast,  the  mercury  not  unfre- 
quently  rising  to  112°  and  120°  at  Suttersville.  Owing,  says  Mr.  Tyson, 
to  the  extreme  dryness  of  the  air,  it  does  not  produce  that  prostrating 
effect  that  a  much  less  degree  of  heat  would  produce  in  the  Atlantic  and 
Mississippi  States.  The  nights  he  represents  as  never  so  hot  as  to  pre- 
vent sleep.  The  Sierra  Nevada  precipitates  whatever  moisture  has  been 
left  in  the  air  after  the  passage  of  the  Coast  range,  and  sends  it  into 
Utah  dry  and  warm.  The  terms  winter  and  summer,  as  understood  east 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  will  not  apply  here,  and  we  must  resort  to  the 
tropical  names  of  wet  and  dry  seasons.  The  rains  begin  in  the  north, 
says  Tyson,  early  in  the  autumn,  and  extend  slowly  southward,  reaching 
San  Francisco  about  a  week  before  the  1st  of  December,  and  San  Diego 
a  month  later,  where  the  rainy  season  is  over  by  February,  and  retrograd- 
ing, continues  later  into  the  year  as  we  proceed  north,  where  the  rain 
not  only  lasts  longer,  but  falls  in  greater  quantity  in  a  given  time. 
During  the  dry  season  scarcely  a  cloud  is  to  be  seen  in  the  great  valley 
for  a  month  at  a  time. 

According  to  observations  made  during  75  days  by  the  exploring  ex- 
expedition  at  San  Francisco,  between  August  18  and  October  31, 
north-west  winds  prevailed  13  days,  south-west  44,  west  4,  south-east  5, 
and  calm  5  days.  Mean  temperature,  from  May  27  to  June  6,  61°, 
maximum  86°,  minimum  48°;  while  at  New  Helvetia,  during  the  same 
period,  the  thermometer  rose  to  114°.  According  to  observations  made 
by  Fremont,  in  San  Joaquin  valley,  between  the  middle  of  December 
and  the  middle  of  June,  the  mean  was  29°  at  sunrise,  and  52°  at  sun- 
set; and  from  the  10  to  the  22  of  March,  38°  and  26°,  at  sunrise  and 
sunset  respectively;  at  Deer  creek,  40°  north  latitude,  between  March 
30  and  April  4,  mean  at  2  P.  M.  59°;  at  the  Three  Buttes,  in  39° 
north  latitude,  at  an  elevation  of  800  feet,  90°  at  2  P.  M.  In  latitude 
35°  30',  mean  between  December  27  and  January  17,  60°  at  noon; 
and  near  Monterey  early  in  March,  62°  at  2  P.  M.,  at  a  hight  of  2,200. 
feet. 

According  to  Captain  Wilkes,  not  more  than  12,000  square  miles  of 
California  are  susceptible  of  cultivation.  A  recent  writer  computes  the 
arable  land  at  42,420  square  miles.  This  opinion  will  probably  have  to 
be  very  much  modified  with  the  progress  of  knowledge,  in  developing 
the  agricultural  capabilities  of  the  country,  which  now  lie  much  neglect 
ed  in  the  general  rush  to  "the  diggings."  Enough  has  been  done  tc 
show  marvellous  fertility  in  the  soil,  both  as  to  variety,  quantity,  and  size 
of  the  products.  In  the  south,  and  in  some  of  the  low  interior  valleys 
as  far  north  as  Napa,  figs,  dates,  sugar-cane,  and  even  bananas  flourish ; 
and  most  tropical  plants  may  be  grown  in  this  region  where  irrigation 
can  be  practiced,  which,  in  many  parts,  is  absolutely  necessary  to  suc- 
cessful agricultural  operations.  The  sheltered  valley  between  the  Sierra 
Morena  and  Coast  range,  south  of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  is  peculiarly 


CALIFORNIA.  481 

favorable  to  plants  and  fruits  requiring  a  mild  climate.  The  southern 
country  is  highly  favorable  to  the  grape,  and  according  to  the  State 
census,  Los  Angeles  county  alone  produced  2,250,000  pounds.  Peaches, 
pears,  apples,  cherries,  quinces,  and  apricots  flourish.  Santa  Barbara 
county  reports  1,370  barrels  of  olives.  Wheat  and  rye  yield  largely  in 
many  parts  north  of  Point  Conception — these  crops  maturing  so  early  as 
to  be  little  injured  by  the  dry  season.  Oats  grow  wild  in  great  quanti 
ties  in  the  Sacramento  valley,  and  westward  of  it.  This  cures  in  the 
dry  season  and  forms  excellent  fodder,  as  there  is  no  moisture  to  cause 
decomposition.  Hemp,  rice,  tobacco,  cotton,  and  coffee,  all  can,  it  is 
believed,  be  cultivated  successfully;  the  first  three  having  been  tried. 
According  to  the  State  census  of  1852,  there  were  110,748  acres  of  land 
under  cultivation,  the  greater  portion  of  which  is  in  the  middle  and  west 
side  of  the  State,  between  36°  and  40°  north  latitude.  The  largest 
yield  was  of  barley,  2,973,734  bushels;  potatoes,  1,393,170;  wheat, 
291,763;  oats,  100,497;  Indian  corn,  62,532;  beef  cattle,  number 
315,392 ;  cows,  104,339  ;  working  oxen,  29,065  ;  horses,  64,773  ;  mules, 
16,578;  sheep,  (in  20  counties,)  35,867;  hogs,  88,071,  and  poultry,  78,753. 

Forest  Trees. — The  variety  of  timber  in  California  is  not  great,  but 
it  is  large  in  size,  and  abundant  in  quantity.  The  Lambertine  pine,  or 
fir,  on  the  mountains,  of  gigantic  size,  the  red-wood  (the  "palo  Colorado" 
of  the  Mexicans,  a  tree  of  huge  dimensions,  a  species  of  cypress ;  Col. 
Fremont  mentions  one  21  feet  in  diameter),  pine,  spruce,  cedar,  white  and 
live  oak,  sycamore,  maple,  ash,  beech  and  laurel  are  found  in  all  sections 
of  the  State,  but  most  abundantly  in  the  north  and  central  portions, 
especially  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Nevada  mountains.  A  specimen 
of  arbor  vitse  recently  felled,  measured  about  320  feet  long,  and  92  in 
girth,  and  yet  another  410  feet  in  length,  and  110  in  circumference.  A 
species  of  cotton-wood  is  found. 

Animals. — Among  the  animals  are  the  moose,  elk,  antelope,  black- 
tailed  and  jumping  deer,  mountain  sheep,  grizzly,  black,  and  barren 
ground  bear,  the  cougar,  common,  grey,  dusky,  black,  and  prairie  wolf, 
the  northern  lynx,  red  lynx,  tiger-cat,  cuyote  (an  animal  between  a  fox 
and  a  wolf,  which  preys  upon  sheep  and  pigs),  a  black  wildcat,  red,  and 
common  fox,  wolverine  (a  sullen,  savage  animal,  which  partakes  of  the 
nature  of  the  bear,  fox,  and  weasel),  badger,  raccoon,  marmot,  squirrel; 
a  species  of  rat,  living  in  the  mountains,  and  building  itself  a  brush  hut 
4  or  5  feet  in  hight,  about  the  size  of  a  musk-rat,  web-footed,  with  a  fine 
colored  fur;  pouched  rat,  mice,  hares,  martins,  and  rabbits  are  the  prin- 
cipal quadrupeds.  The  sea  and  land  otter,  common  hair  seal,  beaver,  and 
musk-rat  are  the  principal  fur-bearing  animals.  Many  wild  horses  roam 
over  the  native  pastures.  Large  herds  of  cattle,  but  of  an  inferior  breed, 
were  formerly  raised  principally  for  their  hides,  horns  and  tallow.  The 
elk,  the  grizzly  and  other  bears,  and  deer  are  abundant.  Birds,  except 
aquatic  fowls,  are  not  abundant  in  California.  The  California  and  black 
vultures  (the  former  4  feet  in  hight,  and  10  from  tip  to  tip  of  its  wings, 
is  a  solitary  bird,  building  its  nest  on  the  top  of  the  mountain),  the  tur- 
key-buzzard, golden  and  bald  eagle,  fish-hawk,  black,  and  pigeon-hawk, 
gerfalcon,  goshawk,  great  horned  and  great  snow-owl,  black  raven,  shrike, 
.    31 


482  CALIFORNIA. 

robin,  brown  thrusb,  lark,  redwing,  snow-bunting,  crossbill,  magpie,  three 
species  of  jay,  woodpecker,  humming-bird,  swallow,  night-hawk,  king- 
fisher, grouse  of  various  kinds,  geese,  ducks,  widgeons,  teal,  crane,  cur- 
lew, snipe,  sandpiper,  plover,  tatler,  godwit,  gull,  phalarope,  penguins, 
swan  (the  largest  bird  of  California,  and  a  bird  of  passage),  white  pel- 
ican, and  albatross,  are  the  principal  birds.  Among  the  fishes  are  the 
seal,  sturgeon,  bass,  mackerel,  crawfish,  blackfish,  sardines  (in  sufficient 
numbers  to  become  an  article  of  export),  codfish,  porgy,  bonito,  pilchard, 
skate;  and,  out  at  sea,  the  whale  and  porpoise,  clams,  oysters,  lobsters, 
crabs,  hallibut  of  a  large  size,  sharks,  a  large  fish  of  a  dingy  red  color 
off  the  soundings,  salmon  in  great  abundance  (large  in  size  and  excellent 
in  quality),  salmon-trout,  trout,  smelts,  and  a  large  fresh-water  fish  from 
1^  to  1\  feet  long.  Among  reptiles  are  the  striped,  black,  spotted,  and 
rattle  snakes;  the  adder,  and  several  species  of  water-snake. 

Manufactures. — California  has  few  manufactures,  and  this  state  of 
things  is  likely  to  continue  so  long  as  there  is  so  great  a  demand  for 
labor  in  other  and  more  profitable  kinds  of  business,  About  $800,000 
were  invested  in  sawing  lumber  in  1850. 

Internal  Improvements. — Several  railroads  have  been  projected,  in 
California,  the  principal  of  which  are — that  from  San  Francisco  to  San 
Jose,  one  from  Benecia  to  Marysville,  and  one  from  Stockton  toward 
Sonora.  Plank-roads,  also,  have  engaged  the  public  attention.  Canal- 
ing,  for  the  purpose  of  conducting  water  to  the  mines,  is  a  species  of 
improvement  peculiar  to  this  State.  About  $3,851,623  in  1852  were  in- 
vested in  sluices,  canals,  etc.  A  marine  telegraph  communicates  between 
San  Francisco,  and  Point  Boneta,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Golden  Gate. 

Commerce. — The  commercial  city  of  San  Francisco  has  sprung  up  as 
if  by  magic,  and  its  harbor  is  thronged  with  shipping  from  Europe,  Asia, 
Australia,  and  the  Atlantic  coast  of  the  United  States.  At  the  moment 
we  write,  in  all  our  great  Atlantic  ports,  large  numbers  of  the  first-class 
ships  are  loading  with  valuable  cargoes  for  California.  Several  lines, 
employing  above  40  immense  ocean  steamers,  of  from  900  to  3,000  tons 
burden,  crowded  with  passengers,  to  a  degree  unparalleled  in  the  history 
of  navigation,  weekly  arrive  at  and  depart  from  San  Francisco  at  the  one 
terminus,  and  New  York  and  New  Orleans  at  the  other.  With  the 
exception  of  the  export  of  gold,  California's  commerce  is  almost  wholly 
an  importing  one,  the  frames  and  materials  of  houses  themselves  being 
imported.  The  commerce  of  California  threatens  to  revolutionize  the 
trade  of  the  east,  and  San  Francisco  seems  likely  to  become  the  Alexan- 
dria of  modern  times,  the  halting-place  of  the  transit  trade  of  Asia,  in 
its  new  western  route  to  Europe,  to  open  commerce  (and  with  it  civili- 
zation) to  the  isles  of  the  Pacific,  and  to  infuse  even  into  the  Chinese 
the  spirit  of  progress.  The  foreign  imports  of  California  for  the  fiscal 
year  1852,  were  $4,648,587,  and  the  exports  consisted  of  about 
§50,000,000  gold  dust.  The  imports  of  San  Francisco  for  1853,  amounted 
to  $35,000,000,  and  the  exports  of  gold  to  $62,300,389,  of  which 
$56,675,736  was  consigned  to  New  York ;  but  this  is  below  the  real 
amount,  as  much  is  never  entered  at  the  custom-house.  In  the  same 
year,  $2,581,975  duties  were  collected.     The  imports  of  1852  of  course 


CALIFORNIA.  483 

do  not  include  the  immense  trade  with  the  Atlantic  shores  of  the  repub- 
lic. There  entered  into  California  in  1852,  71S  vessels,  tonnage  261,352, 
and  cleared  906,  tonnage  360,872.  About  one-third  of  the  commerce 
was  in  foreign  bottoms.  Total  tonnage  owned  in  the  state,  99,041,83. 
See  San  Francisco. 

Education. — Congress  appropriated  half  a  million  acres  of  land  in 
California  for  the  support  of  common  schools;  of  this,  150,000  acres 
have  been  sold,  forming  a  school  fund  of  §300,000.  Besides  this,  two 
sections  of  land  in  each  township  are  set  apart  for  the  same  purpose, 
and  72  sections  for  a  State  university.  The  money  available  for  present 
use,  arising  from  different  sources,  amounted  to  nearly  $50,000  in  1853. 
The  donations  of  public  lands  for  school  and  university  purposes, 
amounted  to  6,765,404  acres  in  June,  1853.  The  superintendent  of 
public  schools,  the  same  year,  reported  to  the  legislature,  17,821  white 
children  in  the  State,  20  public  schools  attended  by  3,314  pupils;  number 
of  teachers  employed,  15,  of  whom  6  were  females;  highest  salary,  §150 
per  month;  lowest,  $75;  total  expended  on  teachers' salaries,  §21,355,42. 
8  or  10  academies  and  high  schools  have  been  founded,  supported  by 
private  means,  and  the  Catholic  bishop  of  Monterey  reports  8  schools 
under  his  direction. 

Religion. — In  1850,  California  had  28  churches,  of  which  1  belonged 
to  the  Baptists,  1  to  the  Episcopalians,  5  to  the  Methodists,  3  to  the 
Presbyterians,  and  18  to  the  Roman  Catholics. 

Public  Institutions. — A  State  Lunatic  Asylum  is  now  in  course  of 
erection  at  Stockton,  which  will  be  an  ornament  to  the  State.  In  1852, 
there  were,  in  temporary  buildings,  30  patients.  The  State  Marine 
Hospital,  at  San  Francisco,  in  1852,  admitted  2,283  patients,  of  whom 
1,408  were  foreigners.  The  United  States  Marine  Hospital,  now  being 
erected  in  the  same  city,  is  182  feet  by  86  feet,  4  stories  high,  and  capa- 
ble of  accommodating  800  patients.  A  penitentiary  is  now  in  course  of 
erection  at  St.  Quentin,  15  miles  north  of"  San  Francisco,  at  which  place 
200  convicts  are  employed  in  constructing  the  building. 

Population. — No  member  of  the  American  confederacy — perhaps  we 
might  safely  say,  no  portion  of  the  earth — has  so  mixed  a  population  as 
California,  adventurers  being  found  from  almost  every  quarter  of  the 
globe ;  even  the  exclusive  empire  of  China  has  here  its  representatives 
by  tens  of  thousands,  whose  patient  industry  makes  them  useful  inhab- 
itants. The  Indians  also  form  a  large  portion  of  the  population. 
According  to  a  State  census  taken  toward  the  close  of  1852,  the  popula- 
tion of  California  was  264,435  inhabitants  (one  county,  El  Dorado,  being 
estimated),  of  whom  151,115  were  white  males,  29,741  females;  1,637 
male  negroes,  253  females;  424  male  mulattoes,  98  females;  19,675 
male  domesticated  Indians,  12,864  females;  93,344  were  citizens  of  the 
United  States  over  21  years  of  age;  50,631  male  foreigners,  and  4,360 
females.  Of  the  foreigners,  39,444  were  over  21  years  of  age.  Of  the 
population,  it  is  estimated  that  140,000  are  miners. 

Counties. — California  is  divided  into  36  counties,  viz:  Alameda, 
Butte,  Calaveras,  Colusi,  Contra  Costa,  El  Dorado,  Humboldt.  Klamath, 
Los  Angeles,  Marin,  Mariposa,  Mendocino,  Monterey,  Napa,  Nevada, 


484  CALIFORNIA. 

Placer,  Sacramento,  San  Bernardino,  San  Diego,  San  Joaquin,  San 
Francisco,  San  Louis  Obispo,  Santa  Clara,  Santa  Cruz,  Santa  Barbara, 
Shasta,  Siera,  Siskiyou,  Solano,  Soloma,  Sutter,  Trinity,  Tuolumne,  Tu- 
lare, Yolo,  and  Yuba.     Capital,  Sacramento. 

Cities  and  Towns. — San  Francisco  had,  in  1852,  a  population  of 
34,876;*  it  is  now  (1856)  estimated  at  not  less  than  60,000;  Sacramento 
city  has  about  10,000;  Nevada,  7,000;  Marysville,  4,500;  Placerville,  Sono- 
ra,  and  San  Jose,  each  4,000;  Stockton,  Monterey,  Los  Angeles,  Sau  Diego, 
Santa  Barbara,  Shasta,  Culloma,  and  Downieville,  from  1,000  to  3,000. 

Government,  Finances,  etc. — The  governor  of  California  is  elected 
for  two  years  by  popular  vote,  and  receives  $10,000  salary.  The  senate 
consists  of  33  members,  elected  for  two  years,  and  the  house  of  repre- 
sentatives of  80,  elected  annually.  The  State  legislature  assembles 
annually  on  the  first  Monday  in  June.  The  members  receive  $16  per 
diem  during  one  session.  California,  by  the  recent  State  census,  will  be 
entitled  to  3  members  in  the  national  House  of  Representatives  (if  the 
State  census  should  be  taken  as  the  guide  to  apportionment,  otherwise 
but  2),  and  to  5  electoral  votes  for  President  of  the  United  States. 

The  judiciary  consists:  1.  Of  a  supreme  court,  composed  of  1  chief 
and  2  associate  judges,  elected  by  the  people  for  six  years,  and  receiving 
$8,000  each,  annually.  2.  Of  district  courts,  the  judges  of  which  are 
also  elected  by  popular  vote,  for  six  years.  3.  A  county  judge  is  elected 
in  each  county  for  four  years,  to  act  as  judge  of  probate,  and  to  hold 
courts  for  the  transaction  of  criminal  business,  in  conjunction  with  two 
justices  of  the  peace;  and  4.  Of  the  superior  court  of  San  Francisco. 
The  district  judges  receive  $7,500  per  annum. 

The  productions  and  capital  employed  in  various  branches  of  business 
(Calaveras  and  El  Dorado  counties  estimated),  including  live  stock,  ag- 
ricultural products,  mines,  etc.,  etc.,  made  in  1852,  a  total  of  $108,522,568. 
The  State  debt  of  California  amounted,  in  October  31,  1853,  to 
$3,257,492.  The  income  of  the  State  for  the  year  ending  June  30, 
1853,  amounted  to  only  $454,985,84,  while  the  expenditures  were 
$1,367,593,35;  but  the  receipts  of  the  unexpired  fiscal  year,  amounted, 
in  January,  1854,  to  $780,000  net  revenue. 

History. — According  to  some  accounts,  California  was  first  visited  by 
Cobrillo,  who  landed  at  San  Diego  in  1542,  and  afterward  by  Sir  Francis 
Drake,  in  1578.  The  first  mission  was  founded  by  some  Spaniards,  in 
1769.  After  the  Mexican  revolution,  California  formed  a  province  of 
that  republic  until  1836,  when  the  inhabitants  rebelled,  drove  out  the 
Mexicans,  and  formed  an  independent  congress.  After  having  been  the 
scene  of  several  sanguinary  contests  during  the  war  with  Mexico,  by  the 
treaty  of  peace  in  1848,  it  became  a  part  of  the  United  States,  and  in 
1850  was  admitted  into  the  American  confederacy,  as  a  sovereign  State; 
since  which  time  its  almost  daily  history  has  been  blazoned  to  the  world, 
far  and  near,  in  the  newspapers  of  the  day.  During  its  occupancy  by 
the  Spaniards,  it  was  resorted  to  by  the  Americans,  principally  for  the 

*  It  must  be  borne  in  mind,  in  giving  population  in  California,  that  there  is  an 
immense  floating  population,  particularly  in  San  Francisco,  not  enumerated  in  the 
census. 


CALIFORNIA.  485 

hides  and   tallow  cured  at  the  Jesuit  missionary  stations,  and  by  the 
Russians  in  pursuit  of  the  seal. 

San  Francisco,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  California,  and  the 
queen  city  of  the  "far  West,"  is  situated  on  the  west  shore  of  the  mag- 
nificent bay  from  which  it  derives  its  name.  Latitude  37°  47'  35"  north, 
longitude  122°  26'  15"  west.  It  stands  in  a  plain  about  half  a  mile 
wide,  gently  inclined  toward  the  bay,  with  numerous  hills  behind  it. 
The  soil  on  which  the  cky  is  built  is  very  sandy ;  and  in  the  vicinity, 
more  particularly  toward  the  north,  are  a  number  of  sand-hills.  It  is 
regularly  laid  out,  the  streets  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles.  The 
houses  till  recently  were  mostly  frame;  but  siuce  the  destructive  fires 
that  have  occurred  several  times,  laying  the  greater  part  of  the  town  in 
ruins,  brick  and  iron  are  becoming  more  extensively  used.  It  now  con- 
tains many  well-built  fire-proof  stores  and  banking-houses.  The  better 
class  of  frame  houses  are  painted  white,  with  green  blinds,  presenting 
the  appearance  of  the  houses  in  New  England. 

The  city  was  originally  built  around  a  semicircular  bay,  having  Rincon 
point  on  the  south,  and  Clark's  point  on  the  north,  these  two  points  being 
about  a  mile  apart.  All  the  space  between  is  now  built  up,  the  ware- 
houses and  wharves  being  supported  by  piles  driven  into  the  water. 
Clark's  point  is  the  termination  of  Telegraph  hill,  having  an  elevation  of 
1,000  feet  or  upward,  and  from  the  summit  of  which  a  very  extensive 
view  may  be  had  of  the  surrounding  country.  Directly  in  front  of  the 
city,  bat  distant  5  or  6  miles,  is  Goat  island,  which  is  nearly  a  mile  in 
length.  It  is  a  barren,  rocky  place,  except  on  the  east  side,  where  there 
is  some  cultivation  among  the  valleys.  The  wholesale  business  part  of 
San  Francisco,  is  towaid  the  city  front.  Davis  street  is  next  to  the  bay; 
then  advancing  west,  one  meets  Front,  Battery,  Sansom,  Montgomery, 
Kearney,  Dupont,  Stockton,  and  Powell  streets;  Yallejo,  Broadway, 
Pacific,  Jackson,  Washington,  Clay,  Commercial  or  Long  Wharf,  Sacra- 
mento, California,  Pine,  Bush,  and  Market  streets,  running  east  and 
west,  are  included  within  the  business  section  of  the  city.  Montgomery 
street  is  a  wide,  handsome  thoroughfare.  On  it  are  situated  the  estab- 
lishments of  the  bankers  and  brokers,  and  nearly  all  the  newspaper 
offices  in  the  city.  It  is  also  the  fashionable  promenade.  On  Stockton 
and  Dupont  streets,  toward  the  south  part  of  the  city,  are  many  fine  resi- 
dences built  of  brick;  west  of  Stockton,  and  on  the  surrounding  hills,  are 
many  handsome  houses  of  wood,  but  being  separated  from  the  rest  of  the 
city,  they  are  comparatively  secure  in  case  of  fire.  Most  families  have 
their  residences  in  the  outskirts,  or  in  the  rear  of  the  town.  The  prin 
cipal  streets  and  sidewalks  are  paved  with  plank  and  heavy  timber.  In 
the  center  of  the  city  is  a  public  square  or  plaza.  A  railroad  has 
recently  been  projected  from  this  city  to  San  Jose.  . 

San  Francisco  has  a  custom-house,  a  branch  mint,  a  fine  exchange,  a 
marine  h  spital,  a  splendid  musical  fund  hall,  and  6  theaters.  The  new 
custom-house  is  a  very  extensive  and  substantial  building.  It  is  built 
on  pi l-  s,  and  is  estimated  to  have  cost,  including  the  site,  about  8800,000. 
The  mint  was  completed  in  March,  1853,  and  cost  about  §300,000.  The 
entire  cost  of  the  marine  hospital  was   about   §400,000.     Among   the 


486 


CALIFORNIA. 


theaters,  the  Metropolitan,  erected  during  1854,  is  the  most  magnificent. 
It  will  comfortably  seat  2,000,  and  accommodate  in  all  about  2,500  per- 
sons. There  are  some  20  churches  in  the  city,  9  or  10  banking-houses, 
and  13  daily  newspapers,  besides  other  publications. 

San  Francisco  is  supplied  with  water  from  Mountain  lake,  situated 
about  3J  miles  west  of  the  city.  The  water  is  introduced  into  the  town 
on  its  own  level,  at  an  elevation  of  about  130  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
cost  of  the  entire  work  is  estimated  at  $800,000.  Gas  is  employed  for 
lighting  the  streets.  The  gas-works  have  recently  been  completed,  and 
are  capable  of  producing  50,000  cubic  feet  every  24  hours. 

San  Francisco  has  regular  communication  by  steamers  with  Panama 
and  San  Juan  del  Sul,  while  several  lines  of  steamboats  are  constantly 
running  between  this  city  and  Sacramento  and  Marysville;  there  is  also 
a  line  plying  between  it  and  San  Jose,  Santa  Clara,  and  Alviso. 

The  following  table  shows  the  arrival,  tonnage,  and  average  passage 
of  vessels  at  San  Francisco  from  the  various  ports  specified,  for  8  months 
ending  September  1,  1853: 


Ports. 


Vessels. 


Tonnage. 


Average 
Passage. 


Ports  in  Chili 

"       China 

Manila 

Other  Eastern  ports 

London 

Liverpool  

Cardiff 

Glasgow 

Other  ports  in  Great  Britain 

Bordeaux 

Havre 

Marseilles 

Hamburgh 

Ports  in  Holland 

Bremen  and  Assens 


87 

44 

3 

6 

12 

28 

16 

4 

5 

14 

9 

2 

9 

G 

2 


24,150 

19,421 

904 

2,473 

4,207 

13,383 

7,253 

1,255 

2,262 

4,G61 

3,979 

668 

2,123 

3,597 

577 


62i<  days. 
68  "     " 
76 


209 

208*£    " 
191 

224%    «' 
169 

162^  " 

207>|  " 

172>?  " 

\M%  " 
211 


The  number  of  American  vessels  entered  during  the  period  above 
specified,  298,  (21  steamers;)  burden,  209,330  tons;  American  vessels 
from  foreign  ports,  131,  (46  steamers;)  burden,  79,406  tons. 

Vessels  and  tonnaye  cleared  at  San  Francisco  in  1853  and  1854. 


Ports. 

1853. 

1854. 

No. 

Tons. 

No. 

Tons. 

95 

269 

25 

1,364 

58,207 
169,022 

30,580 
382,263 

640,072 

114 

119 

14 

916 

1,163 

91,684 
79,843 
8,630  | 
311,188 

491,345 

"    Callao , 

Total 

1,653 

CALIFORNIA. 


487 


Shipping  entered  at  San  Francisco  for  six  years  ending  1854. 


Years. 

From  American 
Ports. 

From  Foreign 
Ports. 

Total. 

No. 

Tons. 

No. 

Tons. 

No. 

Tons. 

1849 

1850 

1851   .... 
1852 

1853 

1854 

254 
695 
241 
161 
349 
266 

1,966 

75,316 
204,749 
115,725 
122,611 
260,110 
216,785 

396 

826 
736 
582 
513 
361 

85,578 
195,427 
193,449 
172,341 
153.765 
192,245 

650 
1,521 
977 
743 
862 
627 

160,894 
400,176 
309,174 
294,952 
413,875 
409,030 

Total.. 

995,296 

3,414 

992,805 

5,380 

1,988,101 

In  the  subjoined  table  are  sbown  the  countries  whence  the  vessels  that 
arrived  at  San  Francisco  in  1853  and  1854  sailed,  and  the  number  of 
vessels  from  each : 


Arrivals  from 

Domestic  Atlantic  ports 

Northern  and  Home  coast  ports. . . 

Ports  in  France 

British   ports 

German  ports ''. 

East  India  ports 

Ports  in  Chili 

Sandwich  and  Society  Islands. . . . 

South  American  ports 

Australian  ports 

Mexican  ports 

Total 


1853. 

1854. 

375 

172 

1,032 

1,460 

31 

11 

93 

41 

20 

14 

73 

63 

130 

27 

71 

55 

15 

10 

7 

16 

55 

24 

1,902 


1,893 


The  exports  to  Australia  and  ports  in  the  Pacific,  in  1854,  comprise 
31,072  barrels  and  sacks  of  flour;  4,717  sacks  of  wheat;  9,041  sacks  of 
barley;  and  25,543  sacks  of  potatoes.  Value  of  quicksilver  exported 
during  the  year,  $755,000.  The  amount  of  gold  exported  from  San 
Francisco  in  1853,  as  manifested  by  steamers  bi-monthly,  was  856,560,529, 
and  in  1854,  $51282,595  (the  amount  for  December,  1854,  is  partly  an 
estimate) ;  the  deficit  for  the  last-named  year  being  $5,277,934.  If, 
however,  we  add  to  the  export  of  1854,  the  343,868^-  ounces  of  gold 
valued  at  $6,433,397,  deposited  at  the  mint  of  San  Francisco  from  April 
1,  1854,  the  time  the  establishment  went  into  operation,  to  January  1, 
1855,  we  shall  have  $57,719,192  as  the  produce  of  1854,  an  increase  of 
$1,155,663  over  that  of  1853.  The  total  produce  of  the  California  gold 
mines  since  their  discovery,  is  estimated  as  follows : 

Previous  to  1851,  assumed  from  statistics  of   the  Philadelphia 

Mint $63,915,376 

Manifested  by  steamers  in  1851 34,492,624 

1852 45,559,177 

1853 56.560,469 

Partly  an  estimate 1854 57,715,992 

Probable  amount  in  the  hands  of  passengers  for  4  years 40,000,000 

Total  amount $298,243,538 


488 


CALIFORNIA. 


The  duties  collected  at  the  custom-house  of  San  Francisco  in  1853, 
amounted  to  $2,581,975.  The  shipping  of  the  port,  June  30,  1854,  ac- 
cording to  the  custom-house  returns,  amounted  to  an  aggregate  of  46,268 
tons  registered,  and  47,257  tons  enrolled  and  licensed;  total,  93,520 
tons.  Of  the  enrolled  and  licensed  tonnage,  44,841  tons  were  employed 
in  the  coast  trade. 

The  assessed  value  of  real  and  personal  property  in  San  Francisco, 
September  1,  1853,  amounted  to  $28,802,000,  being  an  increase  of  up- 
ward of  $10,000,000  over  the  previous  year.  Of  this  sum,  $6,158,350 
consisted  in  improvements,  and  $4,032,009  in  personal  property,  leaving 
$17,389,856  as  the  value  of  real  estate. 

Population. — The  inhabitants  of  San  Francisco  have  been  variously 
estimated  from  60,000  to  70,000;  but  there  is  so  large  a  mass  of  floating 
population,  that  it  would  be  impossible,  even  by  taking  a  census,  to  state 
the  number  with  any  exactness.  The  following  statement  will  give  some 
idea  of  the  immense  influx  of  strangers,  as  well  as  of  the  instability  of 
the  population :  The  total  number  of  passengers  by  sea  that  arrived  at 
San  Francisco,  from  January  1,  to  August  27,  1853,  was  26,722,  of 
whom  21,886  were  males,  4,138  females,  and  698  children.  The  total 
number  that  left  within  the  same  time  was  18,083,  nearly  all  males. 
The  addition  to  the  population  from  abroad,  amounted,  therefore,  during 
the  first  eight  months  of  the  same  year,  to  only  8,639.  From  July  27 
to  August  27,  the  total  arrivals  were  1,435;  the  departures,  1,932 — 
showing  a  falling  off  in  the  last  month  of  497.  The  following  table 
shows  from  what  points  the  emigrants  came : 

Passengers  arriving  by  sea,  from  January  1  to  August  27,  1853. 


From  Panama 12,200 

San  Juan 6,295 

Realego 25 

United  States  ports 960 

Mexican  ports 415 

Chilian  ports 633 

Peru vian  ports 5 

Chinese  ports 3,628 

Philippine  Islands 7 

England 153 

Hanse  Towns 133 


France 1,824 

Sandwich  Islands 208 

Australia 196 

Holland 6 

Vancouver's  Island 3 

Sitka 4 

Genoa 9 

Society  Islands 10 

Total 26.717 


The  number  of  departures  by  sea  during  the  above  period,  was  18,034 
The  total  number  of  arrivals  by  sea  in  1854,  was  47,811;  departures, 
21,243.  The  number  of  Chinese  that  arrived,  was  15,062 ;  departures 
2175. 

History — The  first  settlement  at  San  Francisco  was  made  by  the 
Spaniards  about  the  year  1778.  The  place  was  then  called  Yerba  Buena, 
or  "good  herb,"  because  an  herb  of  this  name,  supposed  to  possess  great 
medicinal  virtues,  was  found  growing  abundantly  on  the  neighboring 
hills.  The  first  houses  were  built  of  adobes,  or  sun-dried  bricks.  In 
1839  it  was  laid  out  as  a  town,  the  few  houses  having  previously  been 
scattered  without  regularity.  It  contained  in  1845  about  150  inhabi- 
tants,    About  this  time  it  began  to  attract  the  attention  of  some  adven- 


CALIFORNIA.  489 

turous  Americans,  and  the  population  increased  in  two  years  to  nearly 
500.  It  retained  the  name  of  Yerba  Buena  until  it  was  occupied  by  the 
Americans.  The  first  discovery  of  gold  was  made  at  Slitter's  settlement, 
then  called  New  Helvetia,  in  December,  1847.  Early  in  1848  the  news 
spread  to  the  four  quart  rs  of  the  globe,  and  immediately  adventurers 
from  every  land  eame  thronging  to  this  new  El  Dorado.  The  magnifi- 
cent harbor  of  San  Francisco  made  this  port  the  great  rendezvous  fur  the 
arriving  vessels,  and  from  this  period  dates  the  extraordinary  increase 
and  prosperity  of  the  Calif  irniau  metropolis.  In  the  first  two  mouths 
of  the  golden  age,  the  quantity  of  precious  dust  brought  to  San  Francisco 
was  estimated  at  $250,000,  and  in  the  next  two  months  at  $600,000.  In 
February,  1849,  the  population  of  the  town  was  about  2,000;  in  August 
it  was  estimated  at  5,000.  From  April  12,  1849,  to  January  29,  1S50, 
there  arrived  at  this  port  by  sea  39,888  emigrants,  of  whom  1,421  were 
females.  In  the  year  ending  April  15,  1850,  there  arrived  62,000  pas- 
sengers. In  the  first  part  of  1850,  San  Francisco  became  a  city.  The 
population  then  was  from  15,000  to  20,000  According  to  the  census  of 
1852,  it  was  34,870;  in  1855,  from  60,000  to  65,000. 

Sacramento  city. — The  present  capital  of  California,  is  situated  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Sacramento  river,  a  little  below  the  mouth  of  the 
American  river,  in  the  midst  of  a  level  and  extremely  fertile  country, 
140  miles  by  water  north-east  of  San  Francisco.  It  is  regularly  laid 
out,  the  street  nearest  the  river  being  called  Front  street,  the  next 
Second,  and  so  on;  these  are  crossed  by  others  at  right  angles,  dis- 
tinguished by  the  letters  of  the  alphabet.  J  and  K  streets  are  the  princi- 
pal business  streets  of  the  city.  Till  within  a  year  or  two  nearly  all  the 
houses  were  of  wood;  but  recently  a  more  substantial  mode  of  building 
is  comiug  into  use.  Since  the  inundations  of  1849  and  1850,  a  good 
strong  levee  has  been  constructed  around  the  town.  In  Sacramento 
and  its  vicinity  are  perhaps  the  finest  gardens  in  California.  As  a 
center  of  commerce,  Sacramento  city  possesses  great  advantages.  It  is 
accessible  for  steamers  and  sailing  vessels  of  a  large  size,  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year;  while  not  only  the  Sacramento  river  itself,  but  its  impor- 
tant affluent,  the  Feather  river,  is  navigable  for  small  steamboats  far 
above,  into  the  interior  of  the  country.  These  advantages  have  ren- 
dered this  town  the  principal  entrepot  for  supplying  with  provisions  the 
great  mining  region  of  the  north.  The  amount  of  merchandise  daily 
landed  on  the  wharves  of  Sacramento  city  in  September,  1854,  was 
estimated  at  530  tons,  of  whieh  150  tons  were  shipped  by  the  up- 
country  steamers.  The  regular  weekly  sales  of  produce  and  merchan- 
dise were  stated  to  be  61. 500,000,  and  the  monthly  receipts  of  gold-dust 
62,750,000.  The  number  of  stage  passengers  from  Sacramento  city  to 
the  mines  was  estimated  at  97,000;  of  wagon  passengers,  214,000; 
travelers  on  foot  and  horseback,  97,000;  drivers  and  packmen,  187,000; 
total,  595,000.  The  estimated  value  of  real  and  personal  property  in 
the  city  is  about  810,000,000.  Five  or  six  newspapers  are  issued  here. 
A  railroad  is  in  course  of  construction  from  Sacramento  city,  up  the  south 
bank  of  the  Americau  river,  21  miles,  to  Negro  bar,  where  it  crosses  the 
river;  and  is  projected  in  the  direction  of  the  great  mining  district  of 


490  TERRITORY  OF  UTAH. 

the  State.  It  is  to  be  completed  to  Negro  bar  in  the  present  year, 
(1855.)  A  branch  railroad  has  also  been  projected  for  15  or  20  miles 
south,  from  Negro  bar.  Population  estimated  at  20,000.  The  vote 
polled  in  Sacramento  in  1853,  was  5,536.  Sacramento  city  was  founded 
in  the  spring  of  1849,  the  central  part  of  the  town  being  about  1  mile 
below  Sutter's  fort,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  American  river,  belong- 
ing to  the  settlement  formerly  known  as  Nueva  Helvetia. 


TERRITORY    OF   UTAH. 


Utah  was  originally  a  part  of  Upper  California,  ceded  to  the  United 
States  by  the  treaty  with  Mexico  in  1848,  and  was  erected  into  a  separate 
territory  in  1850.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Oregon,  east  by  the 
Indian  Teritory  and  New  Mexico,  south  by  New  Mexico,  and  on  the 
west  by  California.  The  Rocky  mountains  separate  it  from  the  Indian 
Territory,  and  the  Sierra  Nevada  partly  from  California.  It  lies  be- 
tween 37°  and  42°  north  latitude,  and  between  105°  30'  and  120°  west 
longitude,  being  about  700  miles  in  extreme  length  from  east  to  west, 
and  3^7  miles  broad  from  north  to  south,  and  including  an  area  of 
269,176  square  miles,  or  172,268,800  acres,  of  which  only  16,333  were 
improved  in  1850. 

Face  of  the  Country,  Geology,  etc. — This  extensive  region  is 
generally  an  elevated  and  barren  table-land,  divided  into  unequal  por- 
tions by  the  Sierra  Madre  mountains,  but  having  the  larger  to  the  west 
of  them.  The  western  section,  known  as  the  Great  or  Fremont  Basin, 
is  hemmed  in  by  mountains  on  all  sides,  having  the  Blue  mountains  of 
Oregon  on  the  north,  the  Wahsatch  mountains  on  the  east,  the  Sierra 
Nevada  on  the  west,  and  transverse  spurs  of  the  Rocky  mountains  on 
the  south.  This  basin  has  an  extent  of  about  500  miles  from  east  to 
west,  by  350  miles  from  north  to  south,  and  a  general  elevation  of  from 
4,000  to  5,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  "with  its  own  system  of 
lakes  and  rivers,  but  having  no  communication  with  the  ocean."  The 
eastern  portion  is  covered  with  a  white  incrustation  of  saline  and  alka- 
line matter,  and  the  western  with  a  mixture  of  salt,  sand,  and  clay,  in 
which  animals  sink  to  their  knees.  Several  detached  mountains  traverse 
this  basin,  the  principal  of  which  are  the  Humboldt  River  mountains, 
which  ruu  from  north  to  south,  near  the  centre  of  the  basin,  having  an 
elevation  of  from  2,000  to  5,000  feet  above  the  surrounding  country. 


TERRITORY  OF  UTAH.  491 

The  Wahsatch  mountains  rise  from  4,000  to  7,000  feet  above  the  neigh- 
boring valley,  and  some  reach  the  hight  of  perpetual  snow.  Some  of 
the  valleys,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  settled  country,  have  an  elevation 
of  about  6,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  A  great  valley,  more 
sterile  even  than  the  western  section,  occupies  the  region  between  the 
Wahsatch  and  the  Rocky  mountains. 

Of  the  geology  of  Utah  as  yet  very  little  is  known.  It  appears, 
however,  that  volcanic  rocks  are  found  in  various  parts.  Basalt  occurs 
on  the  slopes  of  the  mountains  in  many  places.  "The  Boiling  Springs" 
referred  to,  and  the  hot  springs  in  the  valley  of  Bear  river,  and  in  other 
sections,  indicate  the  proximity  of  volcanic  fires. 

Lakes  and  Rivers. — Great  Salt  lake  is  the  prominent  object  to  be 
considered  in  treating  of  the  waters  of  Utah.  This  extensive  and  pecu- 
liar sheet  of  water,  lying  north-east  from  the  center  of  the  territory,  is 
about  70  miles  long  and  80  miles  wide,  with  no  visible  outlet.  The  water 
is  so  highly  saline  that  no  living  thing  can  exist  in  it,  and  by  the  evapora- 
tion in  hot  weather,  leaves  on  its  shores  a  thick  incrustation  of  salt. 
According  to  Fremont's  analysis  of  some  of  the  salt  of  this  lake,  there 
were  in  100  parts,  97.80  of  chloride  of  sodium,  or  common  salt;  sul- 
phate of  lime,  1.12;  chloride  of  magnesium,  0.24;  and  sulphate  of  soda, 
0.23.  About  25  miles  south  of  this,  and  communicating  with  it  by  the 
river  Jordan,  is  Utah  lake,  a  body  of  fresh  water  about  35  miles  in 
length.  It  is  stored  with  trout  and  other  fish.  These  lakes  are  eleva- 
ted°from  4,200  to  4,500  feet  above  the  sea.  Pyramid  lake,  on  the  slope 
of  the  Sierra  Navada  mountains  is,  according  to  Fremont,  about  700  feet 
higher  than  Great  Salt  lake,  and  received  its  name  from  a  pyramidal 
rock  which  rises  from  the  midst  of  its  waters.  In  the  interior  are 
several  small  lakes,  which  are  the  recipients  of  the  streams  of  the  in- 
terior basin,  and  are  often  mere  sinks  or  sloughs.  The  most  important 
of  these  known  are  Nicollet  lake,  about  the  middle  of  the  territory, 
and  Lake  Ashley,  perhaps  70  miles  south  of  it.  Near  the  eastern  base 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains  are  also  several  lakes,  which  receive  the 
waters  of  the  eastern  slope  of  these  mountains.  The  principal  of  these 
are  Mud,  Pyramid,  Carson's  and  Walker's  lakes.  About  50  miles  east 
of  Pyramid  lake  is  Humboldt's  lake,  formed  by  the  waters  of  Humboldt 
river.  These  lakes  have  evidently  no  outlet  but  by  evaporation,  which 
in  some  instances,  in  hot  weather,  reduces  them  to  mere  marshes  or 
sinks. 

As  before  stated,  the  rivers  of  the  Great  basin  have  no  apparent  con- 
nection with  the  ocean,  but  all  either  discharge  themselves  into  the 
interior  lakes,  or  are  absorbed  by  the  sands  of  the  deserts.  _  The  largest  of 
these  streams  is  the  Humboldt  river,  having  its  sources  in  the  western 
declivities  of  the  mountains  of  that  name,  and  flows  south-west  about 
300  miles  into  the  lake  above  described.  One  of  the  overland  routes  to 
California  is  along  this  river,  whose  shores  afford  a  precarious  pasturage 
for  the  animals  of  the  caravans.  The  Nicollet  river  rises  in  the  south 
part  of  the  territory,  flows  north,  and  then  west  for  nearly  the  same  dis- 
tance as  the  Humboldt,  and  empties  itself  into  Nicollet  lake.  In  the 
north-east  part  of  the  basin.  Bear  river  enters  the  territory  from  Oregon, 


492  TERRITORY  OF  UTAH. 

and  is  the  principal  tributary  of  Great  Salt  lake.  The  Green  and 
Grand  rivers  traverse  the  eastern  basin  or  valley,  and  thence  flow  south- 
west into  New  Mexico.  The  Grand  river,  the  most  eastern  branch,  rising 
in  the  Rocky  mountains,  flows  south-west  to  meet  Green  river,  which  is 
the  larger  tributary,  and  has  its  sources  in  the  south-east  part  of  Oregon. 
These  streams  and  their  affluents  drain  the  entire  eastern  division  of 
Utah.  The  former  has  a  course  of  about  300,  and  the  latter  of  about 
400  miles. 

Objects  op  Interest  to  Tourists. — Of  these  there  is  no  scarcity 
in  this  widely  extended  Territory.  Among  the  most  remarkable  objects 
of  this  region,  is  the  Great  Salt  lake.  In  the  saltness  of  its  waters,  in 
the  circumstance  of  its  having  no  outlet,  and  being  fed  from  another 
smaller  and  fresh  water  lake,  (with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  stream  call- 
ed the  "Jordan/')  and  in  the  rugged  and  repulsive  character  of  some 
portions  of  the  surrounding  region,  it  bears  a  remarkable  resemblance 
to  the  Dead  sea  of  Palestine.  Instead,  however,  of  lying  1,000  i'eet 
below,  it  is  more  than  4,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  its  waters, 
moreover,  being  an  almost  pure  solution  of  common  salt,  are  free  from 
that  pungency  and  nauseous  taste  which  characterize  those  of  the  Dead 
sea.  The  Pyramid  lake,  already  referred  to,  embosomed  in  the  Sierra 
Nevada  mountains,  with  the  singular  pyramidal  mount  rising  from  its 
transparent  waters  to  the  bight  of  perhaps  600  feet,  and  walled  in  by 
almost  perpendicular  precipices,  in  some  places  3,000  feet  high,  has  noth- 
ing, we  believe,  similar  to  it  within  the  borders  of  the  United  States. 
The  Boiling  Springs,  in  about  117°  30'  west  longitude,  and  39°  north  lati- 
tude, are  described  by  Fremontas  boiling  up  at  irregular  intervals  with  much 
noise.  The  largest  basin  he  represents  as  being  several  hundred  feet  in 
circumference,  and  having  a  circular  space  at  one  end  15  feet  in  diameter, 
entirely  filled  with  boiling  water.  A  pole  16  feet  in  length  was  entirely 
submerged  on  thrusting  it  down  near  the  center.  The  temperature  of 
the  water  near  the  edge  was  206°.  The  same  authority  describes  an 
appearance  similar  to  the  mirages  of  the  great  deserts  of  the  Old  World. 
In  traveling  over  the  salt  deserts  of  the  Fremont  basin,  they  saw  their 
party  reflected  in  the  air,  probably,  as  Fremont  suggests,  from  saline  part- 
icles floating  in  the  atmosphere.  Near  Brown's  hole,  in  the  neighborhood 
of  Green  river,  in  about  41°  nord  latitude,  and  109°  west  longitude,  are  a 
number  of  narrow  canons  or  gorges,  with  nearly  perpendicular  walls  from 
)00  to  800,  and  even  1,500  feet  in  hight,  presenting  scenes  of  great  wild- 
ness  and  grandeur. 

Climate. — As  elsewhere  remarked,  the  climate  of  the  great  plateau 
between  the  Bocky  and  Sierra  Nevada  mountains,  seems  to  partake  of 
the  characteristics  of  the  great  Tartar  plains  of  Asia.  According  to 
Orson  Pratt,  the  midsummer  is  dry  and  hot,  the  heat  ranging  at  midday 
from  90°  to  105°,  but  with  cool  mornings  and  evenings,  refreshed  with 
mountain  breezes.  The  winters  are  mild,  snow  seldom  falling  more  than 
a  few  inches  deep  in  the  valleys,  nor  does  it  lie  long.  Spring  and  autumn, 
though  mild,  are  subject  to  sudden  changes,  and  the  wind  is  very  variable, 
shifting,  almost  every  day,  to  every  point  of  the  compass.  Bain  seldom 
falls  between  April  and  October ;  but  when  heavy  showers  do  come,  they 


TERRITORY  OF  UTAH.  493 

are  generally  accompanied  by  thunder  and  hail,  and  sometimes  with  strong 
winds.  Dr.  Eernhisel  and  Mr.  Snow  say  that  the  climate  of  Great  Salt 
Lake  City,  in  latitude  40°  45'  north,  is  milder  and  drier  that  the  same  paral- 
lel on  the  Atlantic  coast,  and  the  temperature  more  uniform,  the  thermo- 
meter rarely  descending  to  zero.  During  three  years,  according  to  ob- 
servation, the  highest  point  attained  by  the  thermometer  was  100°  above, 
and  the  lowest  5°  below  zero.  The  variation  between  the  temperature 
of  day  and  night,  in  midsummer,  is  from  20°  to  40°.  Frosts  in  Utah 
valley  fall  as  late  as  the  last  of  May,  and  as  early  as  the  first  of  September. 

Soil  and  Productions. — A  very  small  portion,  comparatively  speak- 
ing, of  Utah,  can  ever  be  made  available  in  producing  food  for  man  or 
beast.  The  few  fertile  spots  are  found  in  the  valleys  watered  by  the  pure 
streams  flowing  from  the  neighboring  mountains,  and  at  the  bases  of 
most  of  the  mountains  is  a  strip  of  fertile  land.  The  line  of  Mormon 
settlements  occupy  the  valleys  from  north  to  south,  lying  near  the  western 
base  of  the  Wahsatch  mountains.  These  are  highly  fertile.  Irrigation, 
however,  is  necessary  even  here  to  successful  husbandry ;  but  large  por- 
tions of  the  valleys  themselves  are  too  remote  from  streams  to  profit  by 
irrigation. 

Bear,  Great  Salt  Lake,  Utah,  South,  Sevier,  and  Land  Pitch  valleys, 
are  the  principal  agricultural  districts.  The  upper  portion  of  the  valleys 
of  the  Green  and  Grand  rivers  is  represented  as  "  incapable  of  support- 
ing any  population  whatever.  The  Unitah  and  Green  Eiver  valleys, 
lying  lower  down  on  the  tributaries  of  the  Colorado,  are,  however,  not  so 
sterile." 

Wheat,  rye,  barley,  buckwheat,  Indian  corn,  and  the  garden  vegeta- 
bles of  the  Middle  States,  are  the  products  of  Utah.  There  is  a  fine 
bunch-grass,  which,  owing  to  the  dryness  of  the  climate,  does  not  decay, 
but  furnishes  fodder  for  the  cattle  during  winter,  without  being  cured. 
The  Indian  corn  and  vines  are  liable  to  be  blighted  by  early  and  late 
frosts.  The  experiments  in  rearing  fruits  do  not  appear  yet  to  have 
been  sufficiently  tested  to  pronounce  definitely  as  to  the  congeniality  of 
the  climate  with  their  healthful  production;  peaches  and  other  fruits 
have,  however,  been  raised.  In  1850,  there  were  in  Utah,  16,333  acres 
of  improved  land,  divided  into  926  farms,  producing  107,702  bushels  of 
wheat;  210  of  rye;  9,899  of  Indian  corn;  10,900  of  oats;  289  of  peas 
and  beans;  43,968  of  Irish  potatoes;  60  of  sweet  potatoes;  1,799  of 
barley,  and  332  of  buckwheat;  70  pounds  of  tobacco;  9,222  of  wool, 
83,309  of  butter;  and  30,998  of  cheese;  live  stock  valued  at  $546,968; 
market  produce  at  $23,868;  slaughtered  animals  at  $67,985;  and  4,805 
tons  of  hay;  besides  small  quantities  of  grass-seeds,  hops,  flax,  molasses; 
beeswax,  and  honey. 

Forest  Trees. — Timber  is  scarce  throughout  this  Territory,  except 
on  the  mountains,  and  is  principally  composed  of  pine  and  fir  trees. 
There  are  some  groves  of  cotttonwood  and  box-elder  in  the  bottoms  of 
the  principal  streams,  and  a  scrub  cedar  also  in  some  of  the  valleys. 
Wood,  both  for  building  and  fuel,  is  scarce. 

Animals. — This  region  is  scarcely  more  fruitful  in  animal  than  vege- 
table life,  but  elk,  deer,  antelopes,  grizzly  bears,  mountain  sheep,  foxes, 


494  TERRITORY  OF  UTAH. 

and  wolves  are  found.     Water-fowl  are  abundant  in  the  lakes,  and  trout 
and  very  fine  salmon  in  the  mountain  streams. 

Manufactures. — Much  progress  in  manufactures  is  hardly  to  be  ex- 
pected in  so  youthful  a  settlement ;  but  Mr.  Pratt  represents  them  as 
starting  up  with  vigor,  particularly  the  manufacture  of  flour,  and  the  more 
necessary  implements  of  husbandry  and  housewifery,  and  the  cheaper 
stuffs  for  clothing.  The  great  distance  from  supplies  from  abroad,  and 
the  great  cost  of  transport,  must  perforce,  encourage  home  manufactures. 
The  census  of  1850  reports  only  14  establishments  engaged  in  mining, 
manufactures,  and  the  mechanic  arts,  producing  each  8500  and  upward 
annually,  employing  844,400  capital  and  51  male  hands,  consuming  raw 
material  worth  8337,381,  and  yielding  products  valued  at.  $291,225. 
Homemade  manufactures  were  produced  in  the  same  year  to  the  value  of 
$1,391. 

Commerce. — The  trade  of  Utah  is  pretty  much  confined  to  traffic  with 
the  overland  emigrants  to  California.  They  find  also  a  ready  sale  for 
their  live  stock  in  the  same  State.  It  is  possible  that  a  trade  down  the 
Colorado  river  with  California  may  be  opened  at  some  future  day,  as  re- 
cent explorers  report  that  river  navigable  for  steamers  of  light  draft 
above  the  Kio  Virgen,  in  New  Mexico. 

Education. — The  American  spirit  seems  to  pervade  the  people  of  Utah 
on  the  all-important  subject  of  education.  According  to  Mr.  Pratt, 
"great  attention  is  being  paid  to  the  erection  of  school-houses,  and  the 
education  of  youth.  It  is  in  contemplation  to  erect  a  magnificent  Uni- 
versity, in  which  the  higher  departments  of  science  will  be  extensively 
taught." 

Religion. — According  to  the  census  report,  there  were  9  churches  in 
Utah  in  1850 — it  is  presumed  all  Mormon,  though  they  are  reported 
under  the  heading  of  minor  sects.  Number  of  Individuals  to  each 
church,  1,264;  value  of  church  property,  $51,000.  One-tenth  of  their 
property  is  required  by  their  canons  to  be  given  to  the  church.  Meas- 
ures have  been  taken  for  the  erection  of  a  vast  temple  at  Salt  Lake 
City. 

Counties. — Utah  is  divided  into  thirteen  counties,  viz.,  Box-Elder, 
CarsQn,  Davis,  Green  River,  Iron,  Juab,  Millard,  Ogden,  Salt  Lake,  San 
Pete,  Tooele,  Utah,  and  Weber.     Capital,  Fillmore  city. 

Cities  and  Towns. — The  principal  town  is  Great  Salt  Lake  City, 
population  about  10,000.  The  other  principal  places  are  Brownsville, 
Ogden  city,  Prove  city,  Manti  city,  Fillmore  city,  and  Parovan.  These 
towns  are  mostly  built  of  adobes  or  unburnt  bricks,  and  are  named  (with 
the  exception  of  Salt  Lake  City)  in  order,  proceeding  from  north  to 
south,  and  scattered  over  a  space  of  nearly  300  miles,  mostly  near  the 
base  of  the  Wahsatch  mountains.  Buildings  are  being  erected  for  the 
State  capitol  and  State  prison  at  Fillmore  city. 

Population. — The  population  is  principally  composed  of  Mormons, 
who  settled  here  in  1847,  after  their  expulsion  from  Missouri  and 
Illinois.  Continual  accessions  of  this  new  sect  are  arriving  from  all 
parts  of  the  Union,  and  from  Europe.  According  to  the  national  census 
of  1850,  thsre  were  11,380  inhabitants;  of  whom  62,020  were  white  males; 


TERRITORY  OF  UTAH.  495 

5,310  white  females;  14  colored  males;  10  colored  females,  and  26  slaves. 
This  population  was  divided  into  2,322  families,  occupying  the  same 
number  of  dwellings.  According  to  an  enumeration  made  in  1853,  by 
the  Mormons  themselves,  the  total  population  was  18,206,  exclusive  of 
Indians,  of  whom  there  are  several  tribes  in  a  very  degraded  state,  sub- 
sisting mostly  on  roots,  berries,  fish,  etc.,  and  living  generally  in  caves  or 
bushes,  but  sometimes  in  wigwams  or  tents,  and  going  nearly  naked.  Of 
the  white  population,  in  1850, 1,159  were  born  in  the  Territory;  8,117  in 
other  parts  of  the  Union;  1,056  in  England;  106  in  Ireland;  232  in 
Scotland;  125  in  Wales,  and 471  in  other  countries.  In  the  year  end- 
ing June  1,  1850,  there  occurred  239  deaths,  or  more  than  21  in  every 
1,000  persons.  Of  the  entire  population  2  were  blind,  5  insane,  and  1 
idiotic. 

Government. — The  government  of  Utah  is  similar  to  that  of  other 
territories. 

History. — The  materials  for  a  history  of  Utah  are  very  meagre.  As  has 
elsewhere  been  stated,  it  was  a  part  of  the  Territory  of  Upper  California, 
acquired  from  Mexico  by  the  treaty  of  1848,  after  the  conclusion  of  the 
late  war  with  that  country.  Previous  to  1847,  when  the  Mormons  com- 
menced directing  their  steps  thither,  it  had  been  in  possession  of  the  mis- 
erable tribes  that  gained  a  most  precarious  living  from  its  churlish  soil — 
undisturbed,  except  by  the  occasional  visits  of  exploring  parties  or  roam- 
ing trappers  and  hunters. 

Salt  Lake  City,  capital  of  Salt  Lake  county,  and  of  Utah  Territory, 
is  situated  near  the  east  bank  of  the  Jordan  river,  which  connects  Great 
Salt  lake  with  Utah  lake,  about  22  miles  south-east  of  the  Great  Salt  lake, 
and  4,200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  was  laid  out  in  July, 
1847,  by  a  company  of  143  Mormons.  The  city  contains  260  blocks 
of  10  acres  each,  separated  by  streets  which  are  128  feet  wide.  There 
are  8  houses  in  each  block,  so  arranged  that  no  two  houses  front  each 
other.  The  houses  are  built  of  adobes  or  sun-dried  bricks.  The  4 
public  squares  of  the  city  are  to  be  adorned  with  trees  from  the  four 
quarters  of  the  globe,  and  supplied  with  fountains.  On  one  of  these  a 
magnificent  temple  is  now  being  erected;  and  a  gorgeous  banner,  con- 
structed of  the  flags  of  all  nations,  is  ere  long  to  be  unfurled  from  the 
"  Ensign  Mount,"  which  overlooks  the  new  city  of  the  "  Saints."  Salt 
Lake  City  contains  a  handsome  theater,  which  cost  above  §20,000. 

The  climate  of  the  valley  in  which  the  city  stands  is  very  salubrious, 
and  the  soil  where,  it  can  be  irrigated,  is  extremely  fertile.  Wheat  is 
said  to  produce,  under  favorable  circumstances,  a  hundred-fold.  The 
mountains  which  enclose  the  valley  on  the  east  side  are  covered  with 
perpetual  snow.  Their  summits  are  said  to  be  about  10,000  feet  (nearly 
2  miles)  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Population  in  1853,  estimated  at 
10,000. 


496  TERRITORY  OF  NEW  MEXICO. 


NEW  MEXICO. 


This  Territory  is  a  portion  of  the  tract  acquired  from  Mexico  by  the 
treaties  of  184S  and  185-1,  extends  from  31°  20'  to  38°  north  latitude,  and 
from  103°  to  117°  west  longitude,  being  about  700  miles  in  extreme  length 
from  east  to  west,  and  about  470  miles  in  breadth  from  north  to  south, 
including  an  area  of  207,007  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  north  by  Utah 
and  Kansas  Territories,  east  by  Kansas  and  the  Indian  Territories  and 
Texas,  south  by  Texas  and  Mexico,  and  west  by  California. 

Face  of  the  Country,  etc. — This  extensive  tract  is  for  the  most 
part  a  high  table-land,  crossed  by  several  ranges  of  mountains,  and 
generally  destined  to  hopeless  sterility.  The  vallies  of  the  Rio  Grande 
and  its  tributaries  occupy  the  eastern  part  of  New  Mexico,  and  lie 
between  and  among  different  rangs  of  the  Rocky  mountain  chain,  which 
cresses  the  Territory  from  north  to  south.  The  western  limit  of  the  Rio 
Grande  valley  is  the  Sierra  Madre  mountains,  and  the  eastern,  the  Juina- 
nes,  the  Del  Cabello,  aud  other  ranges  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  3Iueh  the 
larger  portion  of  theTerritory  lies  west  of  the  Sierra  3Iadre  mountains,  and 
partakes  of  the  general  character  of  the  Fremont  basin.  (See  Utah.)  The 
mountain  ranges  in  the  east  are  the  Guadalupe,  Sacramento,  Organ  (Sierra 
de  los  Grganos,)  Sierra  Blanca,  Hueca,  and  other  divisions  which  diverge 
from  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  pass  off  into  Texas,  form- 
ing the  western  boundary  of  the  valley  of  the  Pecos.  A  broken  ridge 
of  mountains  coasts  the  Gila  river  for  a  considerable  distance,  com- 
pletely hemming  it  in  for  a  great  part  of  its  course,  and  rising,  according 
to  Major  Emory,  to  4,347  and  5,274  feet,  in  two  places  estimated  by 
him.  Mount  Taylor,  in  a  south-west  direction  from  Santa  Fe,  amon°-  the 
Sierra  Madre  mountains,  has  been  computed  at  10,000  feet  elevati  in 
above  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande,  itself  a  high  table-land  of  6,000  feet 
in  the  north  part,  4,800  feet  at  Albuquerque,  and  3,000  feet  at  El  Paso. 
West  of  the  Sierra  Madre  are  several  detached  ranges  of  which  we  know 
but  little,  and  which  traverse  a  country  for  the  most  part  sterile,  except 
in  occasional  narrow  valleys,  which  b  irder  the  streams. 

Minerals. — It  is  highly  probable  that  New  Mexico  abounds  in  the 
precious  metals,  but  owing  to  the  jealousy  of  the  aborigines,  and  the 
unskillfulness  with  which,  even  when  worked  at  all,  they  have  beei 
managed,  they  have  not,  so  far  as  we  are  informed,  hitherto  produced 
abundantly  ;  yet  gold  and  silver  are  kuowu  to  exist,  and  mines  of  both 
metals  have  been  worked.  Gold  has  been  found  in  several  places 
between  and  along  the  Gila  and  Colorado  rivers,  and  the  indications 
are,  that  the  precious  ore  will,  at  a  future  day,  be  largely  produced 
here.  Mines  of  this  metal  hive  been  worked  in  a  district  among  the 
Placer  mountains,  40  mil  s  south-west  of  Santa  Fe;  but  it  is  said  to  be 
found  most  abundantly  about  the  San  Pedro  river,  which  empties  into 


TERRITORY  OF  XEW  MEXICO.  497 

the  Gila  from  the  south.  Silver  mines,  80  miles  north-east  of  El  Paso,  and 
near  Dona  Ana,  are  reputed  to  be  the  richest  in  New  Mexico.  This  metal 
also  exists  south  of  the  Gila  toward  its  mouth.  Iron  occurs  in  abundance 
and  gypsum  in  large  quantities  has  been  found  near  Algaiones;  copper 
is  plentiful,  and  mines  of  that  metal  were  extensively  worked  in  the 
vicinity  of  what  is  now  Fort  Webster  previous  to  1838,  when  the  forays 
of  the  Indians  caused  their  abandonment.  Gold  is  found  in  the  same 
vicinity.  Some  coal  is  found,  and  salt  lakes,  about  100  miles  south-south- 
east of  Santa  Fe,  have  been  resorted  to  for  that  necessary  culinary  article. 
Recent  reports  state  that  silver  mines  have  been  discovered  about  18  miles 
east  of  Fort  Fillmore.     Lead  is  also  found. 

Rivers. — The  Rio  Grande,  or  Rio  Bravo  del  Norte,  as  it  was  formerly 
called,  which  crosses  the  entire  Territory  from  north  to  south  is  the  largest 
river  of  New  Mexico,  and  drains  the  great  valley  which  lies  between  the 
Sierra  Madre  mountains  on  the  west,  and  the  Jumanes,  and  the  Sierra 
Hueca  or  Waco  mountains  on  the  east.  The  Pecos  river  drains  the 
eastern 'slope  of  the  same  mountains,  and  passes  off  into  Texas.  The 
Puerco,  a  river  of  200  miles  in  length,  is  the  principal  tributary  of 
the  Rio  Grande  from  the  west;  but  in  the  hot  season  it  is  often  com- 
pletely evaporated  in  the  lower  part  of  its  course,  rendering  no  tribute 
whatever  to  the  parent  stream.  The  Canadian  river  has  its  sources  in  the 
north-east  of  New  Mexico,  from  which  it  runs  in  a  south-east  direction,  to 
join  the  Arkansas.  The  Gila,  which  rises  on  the  western  slope  of  the 
Sierra  Madre,  runs  almost  directly  west  to  its  mouth  in  the  Colorado.  The 
Salinas,  its  principal  tributary  from  the  north,  drains  the  central  regions 
of  the  Territory.  The  San  Pedro  is  the  most  important  affluent  from 
the  south.  The  San  Francisco  empties  itself  into  the  Salinas.  The  Colorado 
is  formed  by  the  Green  and  Grand  rivers,  which  unite  in  about  36°  north 
latitude,  and  running  south-west  for  about  150  miles,  receives  the  Yirgen, 
turns  to  the  south,  and  forms  the  west  boundary,  from  36°  north  latitude, 
to  20  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Gila.  These  rivers  are  of  very  little  im- 
portance to  navigation,  seldom  being  deep  enough  for  any  craft  beyond  a 
canoe  or  flat-boat.*  Indeed,  for  a  great  part  of  the  year,  the  tributary 
rivers  have  either  dry  channels,  or  are  a  succession  of  pools.  Major  Emory 
found  the  Rio  Grande  itself  but  25  yards  wide,  and  hub-deep  at  Albu- 
querque, 300  miles  from  its  source.  He  also  states  that  it  seldom  rises 
more  than  two  feet.  Lieutenant  Simpson  found  it  200  yards  wide,  and 
four  feet  deep,  150  miles  further  south,  in  September,  1849.  He  afterward 
mentions  crossing  in  a  ferry  at  Albuquerque. 

Objects  oe  Interest  to  Tourists. — Crossed  as  New  Mexico  is  by 
lofty  chains  of  mountains,  it  can  not  fail  to  possess  many  objects  of 
striking  interest  in  its  scenery;  but  they  have  been  hitherto  imperfectly 
explored  west  of  the  Rio  Grande.  Among  and  beyond  the  Sierra  Madre 
mountains,  are  vast  canons,  (kan-yons',  j'.  e.  deep  channels  in  the  earth, 
mostly  forming  the  beds  of  streams,  often  two  or  three  hundred  feet  in 
depth,  and  almost  shut  out  from  the  light  of  day.     In  the  same  region 

*A  correspondent  of  the  San  Francisco  Herald,  in  the  summer  of  1S54,  says  of 
the  Colorado :  "  At  no  point  from  Fort  Yuma  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yirgen,  is  the 
water  less  than  10  feet  deep." 
32 


498  TERRITORY  OF  NEW  MEXICO. 

are  found  steep  bluffs  of  red  and  white  sandstone  rock,  worn   by  the 
action  of  the  elements  into  very  striking  resemblances  of  fortresses,  castles, 
etc.     Lietenant  Simpson  has  given  some  sketches  of  the  most  remarkable, 
in  his  recent  work  on  New  Mexico.     One  curiosity  of  the  country  is  the 
deserted  pueblos,  or  Indian  villages,  which  give  evidence  of  having  been 
the  abode  of  a  much  more  dense  population  than  subsists  there  at  present. 
«  Cascade  Grotto,"  says  Lieutenant  Whipple,  "  is  too  wildly  beautiful 
to  pass  unnoticed.     A  series  of  cascades,  formed  by  a   mineral   spring, 
which  gushes  from  the  mountain,  leap  from  cliff  to  cliff,  until  they  join 
the  Gila,  1,000  feet  below.     Beneath  the  first  water-fall  is  a  charming  cave, 
filled  with  petrifactions.     Among  the  Organ  mountains,  (themselves  an 
object  of  great  interest,  rising  as  they  do  3,000  feet  above  the  river,)  a 
little  stream  whose  source  is  far  within  a  defile,  tumbles  over  the  rocks 
in  a  single  fall  of  50  feet."     The  celebrated  Captain  Walker    reports 
two  extraordinary  falls  in  the  Rio  Virgen,  one  200  miles  from  its  mouth, 
with  a  perpendicular  descent,  in  one  unbroken  sheet,  of  1,000  feet,  where 
the  stream  is  narrowed  to  30  or  40  yards,  and  the  canon  rises  on  each 
side  to  a  nearly  perpendicular  hight  of  200  feet;  and  a  second  fall  of 
200  or  300  feet,  about  30  miles  higher  up.     The  same  authority  thus 
speaks  of  the  great  canon  of  the  Colorado:  "One  of  the  most  extraordi- 
nary natural  features  on  the  continent,  which  extends  for  300   miles 
above   the  mouth  of  the  Virgen  river,  with   lofty  and   almost^  perpen- 
dicular  sides,  suggesting   the    idea  that  the   river   had   cleft  its    path 
entirely  through  the  mountain.     The  waters  wash  up  against  the  walls 
of  the  precipice,  leaving  not  a  foot  of  space  between."     From  the  same 
source  we  learn  that  "the  country  is  entirely  cut  up  with  rocky  ravines 
and  fissures."     A  canon  that  Captain  Walker  traversed — apparently  the 
bed  of  a  spring-torrent — in  one  instance  entirely  closed  over  his  head, 
forming  a  natural  tunnel  200  feet  deep. 

Climate.— The  habitable  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  lies  in 
the  latitude  of  the  northern  and  central  portions  of  the  southern  States; 
but  its  climate  is  very  much  modified  by  its  great  elevation,  giving  it  a 
temperate  but  constant  climate.     The  mercury  sometimes  rises  to  100°, 
but  the  evenings  are  always  cool.     Some  of  the  higher  peaks  of  the 
mountains   are  covered  with  perpetual  snow.     Considerable  rain  falls 
between   July   and   October,  but  New  Mexico   has  essentially  a   dry 
atmosphere,  being  most  of  the  year  parched  where  there  is  no  irrigation. 
Soil  and  Productions. — We  have  already  characterized  the  soil  as 
generally  hopelessly  sterile,  but  this  generalization  is  not  without  con- 
siderable exceptions,  as  many  parts  of  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande, 
and   of  other   streams,  are  highly  productive,  and  yield  fine  crops  of 
Indian   corn,  wheat,  and  other   grains,  besides   apples,  peaches,  melons, 
apricots,  and  grapes.     Among  the  vallies  of  the  Sierra  Blanca,  in   the 
north-east  of  New  Mexico,  the  pasturage  is  excellent ;  and  the  large  valley 
of  San  Luis  in  the  same  region,  is  one  of  the  most  fertile  in  the  Territory. 
But  in  most  places  irrigation   is   necessary   to   successful  agricultural 
operations.     During   the    dry  season,  however,  in    some  districts,  even 
this  resource  fails,  from  the  total  evaporation  of  the  streams.     On  the 
table-lands  which  are  utterly  useless  for  agriculture,  there  grows  a  pecu- 


TERRITORY  OF  NEW  MEXICO.  499 

liar  grass,  which  in  the  dry  season  cures  and  preserves  its  nutritious 
qualities.  On  this  cattle,  sheep,  horses  and  mules  feed  all  the  winter, 
and  preserve  themselves  in  good  condition.  The  mutton  of  New  Mexico 
is  excellent.  The  Indians  on  the  Gila  cultivate  cotton,  wheat,  Indian 
corn,  beans,  melons,  and  other  vegetables,  by  means  of  irrigation,  and 
a  small  quantity  of  buckwheat,  wine,  butter,  potatoes  and  molasses.  Ac- 
cording to  the  census  of  1850,  there  were  in  New  Mexico  3,750  farms, 
occupying  166,201  acres  of  improved  land,  producing  195,515  bushels 
of  wheat;  365,411  of  Indian  corn ;  15,688  of  peas  and  beans;  8,467 
pounds  of  tobacco;  32,901  of  wool,  and  5,848  of  cheese;  livestock 
valued  at  $1,494,629;  market  garden  products,  $6,679  ;  orchard,  $8,231; 
and  slaughtered  animals,  $82,125. 

Forest  Trees. — Only  a  small  portion  of  the  surface  is  covered  with 
forests,  and  the  country  is  almost  entirely  destitute  of  the  hard  woods. 
Some  of  the  streams  are  fringed  with  cottonwood,  and  pine  of  an  inferior 
quality  occurs  on  the  mountains.  Sycamore,  ash,  cedar,  walnut,  ever- 
green, oak,  and  willow,  are  found  in  small  quantities. 

Animals. — The  deer,  mountain-sheep,  wild-hog,  antelope,  caugar, 
ocelot,  lynx,  brown,  black,  and  grizzly  bear,  coyote,  wolf,  marmot, 
skunk,  weasel,  hare,  rabbit,  squirrel,  beaver,  and  elk,  are  the  principal 
quadrupeds  north  of  the  Gila;  turkey,  geese,  brant,  swans,  ducks,  scorpions, 
and  lizards  are  met  with  in  this  Territory,  through  animal  does  not 
appear  to  be  more  prolific  than  vegetable  life  in  this  region. 

Manufactures. — Twenty  establishments,  each  producing  $500  and 
upward  annually,  were  reported  by  the  census  of  1850  as  engaged  in 
manufactures,  mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts,  employing  $68,000  capital, 
81  hands,  and  raw  material  worth  $100,000,  yielding  products  valued  at 
$249,010.  Domestic  manufactures  were  produced  to  the  value  of 
$6,033. 

Education. — On  this  head  there  is  little  to  be  said  at  present,  but 
to  speak  of  its  absence,  and  to  urge  its  introduction.  According  to 
the  census  report  of  1850,  there  were  in  New  Mexico  one  academy, 
with  40  students,  466  children  attended  schools,  and  25,089  adults  who 
could  not  read  nor  write,  of  whom  660  were  of  foreign  birth. 

Religious  Denominations. — In  1850,  there  were  73  churches,  all 
belonging  to  the  Roman  Catholics,  giving  one  church  to  every  835  in- 
habitants.    Value  of  church  property,  $94,100. 

Periodicals. — In  1850,  there  were  published  in  New  Mexico,  one 
weekly  and  one  tri-weekly  newspaper,  with  an  aggregate  annual  circula- 
tion of  38,800  copies. 

Population. — The  population  of  New  Mexico  is  of  a  very  mixed 
character,  but  composed  for  the  most  part  of  domesticated  nomad  In- 
dians, with  an  intermixture  of  Mexicans  and  Americans.  According 
to  the  census  of  1850,  there  were  61,547  inhabitants,  (exclusive  of 
Indians,)  of  whom  31,725  were  white  males,  and  29,800  females;  19 
free  colored  males,  and  3  females;  38  were  d^af  and  dumb;  98  blind; 
11  insane,  and  44  idiots.  In  the  twelve  months  preceding  June  1, 
1850,  there  occurred  1,157  deaths,  or  nearly  19  in  every  one  thousand 
persons.     This  population  was  divided  into  13,502  families,  occupying 


500  TERRITORY  OF  NEW  MEXICO. 

13,453  dwellings.  Population  to  square  mile,  30.  Of  the  whole,  58,415 
were  born  in  the  Territory;  772  in  other  parts  of  the  United  States;  43 
in  England;  292  in  Ireland;  30  in  Scotland  and  Wales;  215  in  Grermany; 
26  in  France;  38  in  British  America ;  1,507  in  other  foreign  countries, 
and  209  whose  places  of  birth  were  unknown.  Of  the  whole  population, 
9  were  engaged  in  mining ;  14,084  in  ordinary  labor  and  in  agriculture ; 
233  in  trade,  803  in  manufacturing ;  and  126  in  the  learned  professions. 
The  Indian  population,  according  to  the  estimate  of  the  Indian  Bureau  at 
Washington,  was  45,000  in  1853. 

According  to  Mr.  Bartlett,  "In  the  district  of  country  bounded  on  the 
east  by  the  Rocky  mountains,  the  west  by  the  Colorado  river,  the  south 
by  the  river  Gila,  and  extending  northward  about  300  miles,  there  exist 
many  Indian  tribes  which  have  attained  a  higher  rank  in  civilization 
than  any  other  aborigines  of  the  North  American  continent  north  of  the 
valley  of  Mexico.  The  tribes  of  which  I  am  speaking  cultivate  the 
soil,  raise  wheat,  corn,  and  other  articles  for  their  subsistance ;  cotton, 
which  they  spin  and  weave  into  garments  to  cover  their  bodies ;  horses 
and  cattle;  and  they  erect  their  own  dwellings,  of  greater  or  less  capacity. 
In  their  pottery  and  household  implements,  too,  they  are  before  all 
others. 

There  is  now  in  ruins,  (situated  on  the  Chaco,  a  branch  of  the  San 
Juan,)  the  Pueblo  Pintado,  built  of  tabular  pieces  of  hard,  gray  lime- 
stone, three  stories  high,  and  containing  on  the  ground-floor  54  apart- 
ments, some  of  them  not  more  than  five  feet  square,  and  the  largest  12 
by  6;  also  the  Pueblo  Wegi-gi  with  a  circuit  of  700  feet,  and  containing 
99  apartments  on  the  first  floor;  the  Pueblo  Una-vida  with  a  circuit  of 
994  feet;  the  Hungo-Pavie  with  a  circuit  of  872  feet,  and  72  rooms 
upon  the  ground-floor;  and  the  Pueblo  Chettro-Kettle,  with  a  circuit  of 
1,300  feet,  and  124  apartments  on  the  gound-floor.  These  several  build- 
ings were  of  three  or  four  stories,  one  receding  from  the  other,  and  all 
built  of  stone.  Near  the  latter  is  a  ruined  edifice,  about  1,300  feet  in 
oircuit,  which  had  been  four  stories  high,  with  139  rooms  on  the  ground- 
floor.  Allowing  each  story  to  recede  as  before,  and  the  upper  apartments 
to  correspond  with  those  below,  this  building  contained  not  less  than  641 
apartments.  Two  miles  beyond  this  are  the  ruins  of  a  still  larger  build- 
ing, called  the  Penasca  Blanca,  having  a  circuit  of  1,700  feet. 

The  Pueblj  of  Taos,  in  New  Mexico,  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
now  existing.  It  consists  of  an  edifice  about  400  feet  long  by  59 
wide,  and  is  divided  into  long  ranges  of  apartments  one  above  the 
Other,  forming  a  pyramidal  pile  of  50  or  60  feet,  and  five  or  six  stories 
in  hight.  This  great  building,  it  is  said,  affords  habitations  for  five  or 
six  hundred  people. 

The  second  class,  where  the  tribe  or  community  live  in  a  village, 
consist  of  buildings  generally  of  one  story,  but  sometimes  of  two. 
When  of  the  latter,  the  entrance  is  by  ladders  from  the  outside,  as 
before  mentined.  The  object  of  this  is  to  render  them  perfectly  isolated, 
and  to  afford  them  protf  jtion  from  an  enemy.  To  render  these  dwellings 
more  secure,  villages  and  large  edifices  are  usually  built  upon  the  summit 
of  a  rock,  or  hill,  and  when  this  is  not  convenient  on  the  open  plateau, 


TERRITORY  OF  NEW  MEXICO.  501 

where  there  is  neither  tree,  bush,  nor  rock  to  conceal  an  enemy.  Theso 
people  often  choose  a  spot  near  some  eminence  which  may  command  a 
view  of  the  adjacent  country,  where  they  may  establish  a  look-out,  and 
place  a  sentinel  to  give  warning,  if  an  enemy  should  approach." 

Counties. — There  are  eight  counties  in  New  Mexico,  viz:  Bernallillo, 
Rio  Arriba,  Santa  Anna,  Santa  Fe,  San  Miguel,  Taos,  Valencia,  and 
Socorro.     Capital,  Santa  Fe. 

Towns. — The  principal  settlement  (we  use  this  term  because  the 
limits  of  the  towns  are  not  defined  with  much  accuracy)  are  Santa  Fe, 
population 4,846;  LaCuesta,  2,196;  St.  Miguel,  2,008;  Las  Vegas,  1,650, 
Zuni  or  Tuni,  (an  Indian  puebla  or  village,)  1,292,  and  Tuckelata,  1,320. 

Government. — New  Mexico,  in  common  with  all  other  territories 
of  the  United  States,  has  a  governor  appointed  by  the  President  and 
Senate  of  the  United  States,  who  is  also  superintendent  of  Indian 
affairs,  and  receives  a  salary  of  $2,500  per  annum.  It  has  a  council  of 
13  members,  elected  for  two  years,  and  a  house  of  representatives  of  26 
members,  elected  annually.  The  judiciary,  appointed  by  the  President 
of  the  United  States,  with  the  advice  of  the  Senate,  is  composed  of  a 
chief  and  two  associate  judges,  receiving  $2,000  each  per  annum.  As- 
sessed value  of  property  in  1850,  $5,063,474.     Banks,  none. 

History. — Lying  in  the  interior,  and  possessing  no  very  great  induce- 
ments to  tempt  emigration  thither,  New  Mexico  has  not  been  the  theater 
of  many  striking  events  in  history.  As  elsewhere  stated,  traces  exist  in 
the  deserted  and  ruined  pueblos  of  a  much  more  dense  Indian  or  Aztec 
population,  in  former  times  than  at  present.  It  formed  a  Mexican  pro- 
vince or  department  until  the  conquest  of  Mexico  by  the  Americans, 
when,  in  Sept.  1850,  it  was  constituted,  with  a  portion  of  Upper 
California  and  Texas,  a  Territory  of  the  United  States,  under  its  present 
title.  In  1854,  its  area  was  still  further  increased  by  a  purchase  of  a 
portion  of  the  north  part  of  Mexico,  thus  extending  its  southern  boundary 
in  one  instance  to  31°  20' north  latitude.  The  inhabitants  are  very  much 
harassed  by  inroads  from  the  Indians,  who  frequently  attack  the  settle- 
ments, murder  or  carry  off  the  men,  women,  and  children,  and  drive  off 
the  flocks. 

Santa  Fe. — The  capital  and  largest  town  of  New  Mexico,  is  situated 
on  the  Rio  Chicifo,  or  Santa  Fe  river,  an  affluent  of  the  Rio  Grande, 
from  which  it  is  distant  about  20  miles  in  a  direct  line.  Latitude  35°  41 
north,  longitude  about  106°  10' west.  It  is  the  great  emporium  of  the  over- 
land trade  which,  since  1822,  has  been  carried  on  with  the  State  of  Missouri. 
Each  of  the  houses,  which  are  principally  built  of  dark-colored  adobes,  or 
unburnt  brick,  usually  forms  a  square,  with  a  court  within,  upon  which 
■nearly  all  the  apartments  open  from  the  street.  There  is  generally  but 
one  entrance,  which  is  wide  and  high  enough  to  admit  animals  with  their 
packs.  Much  of  the  ground  in  an  around  Santa  Fe  is  extremely  sandy; 
and  in  dry  weather,  when  the  wind  is  high,  this  is  a  source  of  great 
annoyance.  The  place  is  well  supplied  with  cool  water  from  springs 
within  its  limits,  and  also  from  fountains  above  the  city  near  the  mountain 
side.  Numerous  acequias,  (a-sa'ke-as,)  or  small  canals,  are  led  through 
the  streets,  and  afterward  serve  to  irrigate  the  gardens  and  fields  below 


502  TERRITORY  OF  NEW  MEXICO. 

the  town  for  several  miles.  On  the  whole,  the  appearance  of  Santa  Fe  is 
very  uninviting,  and  the  population  is  exceedingly  depraved.  It  stands 
on  a  plateau,  which  is  elevated  about  7,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  a 
short  distance  south-west  of  the  base  of  a  snow-capped  mountain,  which 
rises  5,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  town.  One  or  two  newspapers  are 
issued  here.     Population  in  1850,  4,846. 


TEXAS 


Texas,  with  the  exception  of  Florida,  now  forms  the  southernmost 
portion  of  the  United  States.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  New  Mexico, 
the  Indian  Territory,  and  Arkansas ;  on  the  east  by  Arkansas  and  Louis- 
iana; on  the  south-east  by  the  Gulf  of  Mexico ;  and  on  south-west  and 
west  by  Mexico  and  New  Mexico.  The  Red  river  separates  it  in  part  from 
the  Indian  Territory  and  Arkansas,  the  Sabine  from  Louisiana,  and  the 
Rio  Grande  from  Mexico.  This  State  lies  between  25°  50'  and  36°  30' 
north  latitude,  and  between  93°  30'  and  107°  west  longitude.  Its  shape 
is  very  irregular,  but  its  extreme  length  from  south-east  to  north-west  is 
more  than  800  miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth  from  east  to  west  about  750 
miles,  including  an  area  of  237,504  square  miles  :  an  amount  of  territory 
nearly  six  times  that  of  the  State  of  Pensylvania,  the  greater  part  of  which 
is  composed  of  soil  of  great  agricultural  capabilities. 

Face  of  the  Country. — This  great  State  embraces  every  variety  of 
surface,  mountain,  plain,  hill,  and  desert  within  its  limits.  In  the  south- 
east, along  the  coast  is  a  level  belt  of  land  from  30  to  60  miles  in  breadth, 
which  is  succeeded  by  an  undulating  and  prairie  country,  occupying 
another  belt  of  from  150  to  200  miles  in  width,  which  is  followed  in  the 
west  and  north-west  by  the  mountainous  region  and  the  table-land. 
The  extreme  north  is  invaded  by  the  Great  American  Desert,  which 
extends  perhaps  about  60  miles  within  the  boundary  of  Texas.  Ac- 
cording to  Mr.  Bartlett,  the  plateau  of  Texas,  including  part  of  New 
Mexico,  extends  from  30°  to  34°  north  latitude,  and  from  the  Rio  Grande 
east  for  300  miles.  The  north  portion,  called  Llano  Estacado  or  "Staked 
Plain,"  is  2,500  feet  above  the  sea.  This  broad  district  is  destitute  of 
forest  trees  and  shrubbery,  except  along  the  margins  of  the  streams, 
and  even  there  never  extending  100  yards  from  the  banks.  Just 
after  rains  a  short  stunted  grass  springs  up,  but  speedily  becomes  dry, 
affording  little  nourishment.  In  this  region  rise  the  Red,  Brazos,  and 
Colorado  rivers.  About  29°  30'  north  latitude,  the  table -land  breaks 
off  into  spurs,  which  descend  to  the  prairies.     The  rivers  have  generally 


TEXAS.  503 

alluvial  bottoms  of  from  3  to  20  miles  in  width,  which  are  of  great  fertility, 
and  heavily  timbered.  The  belts  referred  to  above  run  across  the  State  in 
a  direction  nearly  north-east  and  south-west,  so  tbat  almost  all  the  north 
part  of  eastern  Texas  is  included  in  the  second  division,  or  the  undulating 
country.  Little  is  known  of  the  elevated  lands  of  the  west  and  north- 
west, as  they  are  yet  the  home  of  few  white  men  except  the  hunters,  who 
pursue  its  buffaloes  and  other  wild  animals.  It  is,  however,  represented 
as  being  a  well-watered  and  fertile  region.  A  low  range  of  mountains, 
called  the  Colorado  hills,  runs  in  a  north  and  south  direction,  east  of 
the  Colorado  river ;  indeed,  the  whole  section  of  the  State  in  the  same 
parallel,  between  the  Colorado  and  Brazos  rivers,  is  broken  with  low 
mountains.  Between  the  Colorado  and  the  Rio  Grande,  and  north  of  the 
sources  of  the  Nueces  and  San  Antonio,  the  country  is  crossed  by  broken 
ranges  of  mountains  runninar  in  various  directions,  but  of  whose  altitude 
and  character  we  have  little  reliable  information.  They  appear,  however, 
to  be  outlying  ridges  of  the  great  Rocky  mountain  chain.  Of  these  the 
Organ,  Hueco  or  Waco,  and  Guadalupe  mountains  extend  from  the  north- 
west extremity  of  Texas,  where  they  terminate,  in  a  north  direction  into 
New  Mexico.  According  to  Bartlett,  the  first  are  about  3,000  feet  above 
the  Rio  Grande,  and  the  last  the  same  altitude  above  the  plain. 

Geology. — That  part  of  Texas  which  lies  within  about  200  miles  of 
the  coast,  and  perhaps  further  inland,  appears,  says  Mr.  Bollaert,  in  a 
paper  read  before  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  to  have  been  gradually 
uplifted  from  the  bed  of  an  ancient  sea,  into  which  the  great  rivers  of 
that  period  poured  their  waters,  charged  with  the  detritus  of  the  secondary 
rocks.  This  detritus  was  gradually  deposited  in  sedimentary  beds  at  the 
bottom  of  the  sea,  and  these  deltas  at  length  uniting,  form  the  superficial 
accumulations  of  the  level  and  undulating  lands.  This  appears  to  be 
confirmed  by  the  fact  that  the  soils  in  the  vicinity  of  the  great  rivers  are 
distinguished  by  the  peculiar  ingredients  brought  down  by  the  freshets 
of  the  present  day.  A  vast  belt  of  gypsum,  (sometimes  100  miles  in 
width,)  extending  from  the  Arkansas  to  the  Rio  Grande,  passes  across  the 
north-west  portion  of  the  State.  In  the  mountains  and  hills  of  the  north- 
west, we  have  primitive  formations  of  granites,  porphyries,  etc.  Middle 
and  southern  Texas  seem  to  be  composed  of  rich  surface  soils,  overlaid  in 
the  tertiary  strata  with  its  peculiar  fossils  ;  then  follow  the  oolitic  systems, 
sandstone,  and  perhaps  the  new  red  sandstone.  A  series  of  measure- 
ments give  the  following  elevations: — Galveston,  10  feet ;  Houston,  60 
feet;  San  Felipe  de  Austin,  200  feet;  Columbus,  250  feet;  Gonzales,  270 
feet ;  San  Antonia  de  Bejar,  350  feet ;  head- waters  of  the  San  Antonio, 
400  feet;  Rio  Frio,  450  to  500  feet;  Cibolo  river  and  head-waters  of  the 
Leona  river,  550  feet;  1st  Sabinas,  700  feet;  2d  Sabinas,  800  feet; 
Guadalupe  river,  1,000  feet;  Llano  Estacado,  2,450  feet;  and  Guada- 
lupe mountains,  3,000  feet. 

Minerals. — Texas  abounds  in  minerals.  Lying  as  she  does  in  close 
proximity  to  the  gold  and  silver  regions  of  Mexico  and  New  Mexico,  it  is 
probable  that  she  may  develop  in  future  rich  supplies  of  the  precious 
metals.  This,  however,  is  not  left  entirely  to  conjecture,  as  silver  mines 
are  known  to  have  been  worked  at  San  Saba,  and  recent  discoveries  of 


504 


TEXAS. 


the  same  metal  have  been  made  upon  the  Bidais  river.     In  the  spring 
of_lS53,  the  country  was  agitated  by  the  report  of  the  discovery  of  gold 
mines  west  of  the  Colorado  river,  between  it  and  the  San  Saba  mountain?, 
and  north  of  the  Llano  river,  but  these  reports  have  not  been  confirmed, 
at  least  as  to  its  existence  in  any  considerable  quantities.     According  to 
Haldeman's  revised  edition  of  Taylor's  work  on  the  Coal  Regions  of  the 
United  States,  coal  exists  on  the  Trinity  river,  200  miles  above  Galveston ; 
in  the  vicinity  of  Nagadoches,  on  the  Brazos  (in  abundance)  ;  near  the 
city  of  Austin,  and  on  the  Rio  Grande,  south-west  of  Bexar.     It  is  believed 
that  a  belt,  distant  about  200  miles  from  the  coast,  extending  south-west 
from  Trinity  river  to  the  Rio  Grande,  contains  this  valuable  mineral  in 
various  places.     Iron  is  found  in  many  parts  of  the  State  j  there  are  also 
salt  lakes  and  salt  springs,  copper,  copperas,  alum,  lime,  agates,  chalcedony, 
jasper,  and  a  white  and  red  sandstone.      A  pitch  lake,  20  miles  from 
Beaumont,  deposits  of  nitre  and  sulphur,  and  fire  clay,  are  among  the  mi- 
nerals.    "Formations  of  secondary  limestone,  with  others  of  carbonifer- 
ous sandstones,  shales,  argillaceous  iron  ore,  and  bituminous  coal  beds, 
are  said  to  occupy  a  large  portion  of  the  interior  of  Texas.     Westward 
of  these  occur  the  inferior  and  silurian   strata,  trilobite   limestone,  and 
transition  slates.     Beyond  all  the  balsatic  and  primary  rocks  of  the  Rocky 
mountains  arise  j  while  north  is  the  great  salt  lake  of  the  Brazos,  and  a  vast 
red  saliferous  region.     An  immense  bed  of  gypsum,  the  largest  known  in 
North  America,  reaching  from  the  Arkansas  to  the  Rio  Grande  river, 
traverses  the  north-west  portion  of  Texas.    Mineral  springs  abound ;  among 
the  most  important  are  the  Salinilla  Springs,  (both  white  and  salt  sulphur,) 
near  the  Trinity  river  in  Walker  county,  a  spring  similar  to  White  Sul- 
phur in  Virginia,  near  the  Bidais  river ;  a  blue  sulphur  spring,  also  in 
Walker  county ;  a  mineral  spring  near  the  Chilo,  30  miles  from  Bexar, 
formerly  of  great  repute  among  the  Mexicans  for  its  medical  properties; 
and  a  white  sulphur  spring  near  Carolina,  in  Montgomery  county. 

Rivers,  Bays,  Sounds. — The  coast  of  Texas  is  lined  with  a  chain 
of  low^  islands,  which  form  a  series  of  bays,  sounds,  and  lagoons ;  the 
most  important  of  which  are  Galveston,  Matagorda,  Espiritu  Santo, 
Aransas,  and  Corpus  Christi  bays,  and  Laguna  del  Madre.  Commencing 
at  Galveston  bay  in  the  north-east,  they  lie  along  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  in  the 
order  in  which  they  are  named.  Galveston  bay,  the  largest  of  these, 
extends  about  35  miles  inland  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  in  a  direction 
nearly  north.  Matagorda  bay,  60  miles  long  by  6  to  10  wide,  and  Laguna 
del  Madre,  90  miles  long  by  3  to  6  wide,  are  sounds  rather  than  bays, 
and  run  nearly  parallel  with  the  shore.  The  inlets  to  these  are  much 
obstructed  by  bars ;  Galveston  inlet,  the  best,  is  said  to  have  but  12  feet 
water,  the  entrance  of  Matagorda  bay  11  feet,  and  that  of  San  Luis  but 
10  feet.  Aransas  bay  extends  in  a  north-east  and  south-west  direction 
about  25  miles,  by  about  12  miles  in  width  :  Corpus  Christi  bay,  40  miles 
from  norta  to  south,  by  20  miles  from  east  to  west;  and  Espiritu  Santo  is 
20  miles  long  by  10  wide ;  Copano  bay,  opening  into  Aransas,  is  20  miles 
long  by  3  wide.  A  writter  in  "  De  Bow's  Resources  in  the  South  and 
West,"  however,  says—"  Steamships  of  1,200  to  1,500  tons,  and  sail  vessel 
of  1,000  tons,  can  enter  the  port  of  Galveston."    Texas  is  crossed  by  several 


TEXAS.  505 

long  rivers,  generally  rising  in  the  table-lands  of  the  west  and  north-west, 
and  pursuing  a  south-east  course,  discharge  their  waters  into  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  Commencing  with  the  Rio  Grande,  the  largest  river  in  Texas, 
1,800  miles  long,  and  which  forms  its  south-west  boundary,  and  proceeding 
alone  the  coast,  we  have  the  Nueces,  San  Antonio,  Guadalupe,  Colorado, 
Brazos,  Trinity,  Neches,  and  Sabine,  whose  lengths  in  the  order  named  are 
about  300,  250,  275,  800,  500,  400,  300,  and  350  miles,  as  estimated  by 
measurements  on  the  map.  The  Bed  river  rises  in  the  north-west  of  the 
State,  and  forms  a  large  part  of  the  north  boundary  line.  The  Canadian, 
a  branch  of  the  Arkansas,  crosses  the  north  projection  of  the  State.  All 
of  these  are  navigable  to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  (depending  on  the  wetness 
or  dryness  of  the  season,  and  on  local  obstructions,)  the  Sabine  for  about 
150  miles ;  the  Trinity,  to  Porter's  Bluffs,  latitude  32°  20' ;  the  San  Ja- 
cinto, 50  miles;  the  Brazos,  to  Sullivan's  Shoals,  near  latitude  31°  north; 
the  Nueces,  100  miles ;  the  Bio  Grande,  400  miles ;  and  the  Bed  river,  to 
Preston,  latitude  34°  north,  and  longitude  96°  20' west,  (during  high  wa- 
ter.) The  Colorado  is  obstructed  by  a  raft  10  miles  from  its  mouth  ;  but 
when  this  is  removed,  which  it  doubtless  will  be  ere  long,  it  will  give  a 
navigation  of  several  hundred  miles.  There  are  a  number  of  small  rivers 
or  tributaries  navigable  to  some  extent,  and  besides  their  value  as  channels 
of  commerce,  they  afford  in  many  instances  excellent  sites  fur  mill  seats. 
There  are  no  known  lakes  of  importance  in  Texas.  Sabine  lake,  an  ex- 
pansion of  the  river  of  that  name,  near  its  mouth,  20  miles  long,  is  on  the 
boundary  of  Texas  and  Louisiana.  There  is  a  salt  lake  near  the  Bio 
Grande,  from  which  large  quantities  of  salt  are  annually  taken. 

Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists. — Among  the  most  remarkable 
known  natural  wonders  of  Texas,  is  the  Pass  of  the  Guadalupe  mount- 
ains, in  the  north-west  of  the  State,  thus  described  by  Mr.  Bartlett :  "  We 
followed  the  intricacies  of  the  pass  for  6  hours,  winding  and  turning  in 
every  direction,  now  plunging  into  some  deep  abyss,  now  rising  upon 
some  little  castellated  spur,  and  again  passing  along  the  brink  of  a  deep 
gorge,  whose  bottom,  filled  with  trees,  is  concealed  from  our  view.  In 
one. place  the  road  runs  along  a  rocky  shelf  not  wide  enough  for  two 
wagons  to  pass,  and  the  next,  passes  down  through  an  immense  gorge, 
walled  in  by  regularly  terraced  mountains  of  limestone." 

The  Castle  Mountain  pass  is  scarcely  less  wild  and  interesting.  The 
Waco  Mountain  pass,  on  the  borders  of  Texas  and  New  Mexico,  is  on 
the  same  grand  scale.  Deep  barancas,  canons  or  gullies,  either  worn  by 
water  or  rent  asunder  by  earthquakes,  yawn  to  a  depth  of  many  hundred 
feet,  in  its  high  table-lands.  Captain  Marcy  represents  the  Bed  river, 
near  its  source,  as  cutting  its  way  through  the  solid  rock  in  the  north  of 
Texas,  in  a  canon  or  gorge  of  800  feet  in  depth.  A  fall  of  120  feet  in 
a  perpendicular  pitch  is  reported  to  have  been  recently  discovered  in  one 
of  the  branches  of  the  Colorado  river,  which  falls  in  one  unbroken 
sheet  of  100  feet  in  width.  Very  large  bones,  (apparently  of  the  masto- 
don,) immense  horns,  vertebrae,  teeth,  silicified  wood,  oysters,  mussels, 
ammonites,  (nearly  2  feet  in  diameter,)  fish,  encrinites,  trilobites,  and 
other  fossils  are  found  near  San  Felipe  de  Austin,  Columbus,  Bastrop, 
Webber's  prairie,  Austin,  Peach  creek,  Brazoria,  and  many  other  places, 


506  TEXAS. 

but  not  all  in  any  one  locality.  Silicified  trees  are  particularly  numerous 
in  Houston  county,  mostly  nearly  perpendicular,  inclining  to  the  north, 
but  some  horizontal. 

Climate. — Texas  seems  to  partake  of  a  climate  free  from  the  extremes 
of  both  the  torrid  and  temperate  zones,  producing  in  the  north  many  of  the 
products  of  the  temperate,  and  in  the  south  many  of  those  of  the  torrid 
zone.  While  it  shares  the  genial  climate  of  Louisiana,  it  is  free  from  its 
unhealthy  swamp  exhalations.  The  heats  of  summer  are  much  miti- 
gated by  the  refreshing  breezes  from  the  Gulf,  which  blow  with  great 
steadiness  during  that  season.  In  November,  however,  the  north  winds  set 
in  and  sweep  down  the  plains,  with  but  little  variation,  during  the  months 
of  December  and  January.  These  winds  have  doubtless  a  purifying 
effect  on  the  atmosphere,  by  sweeping  off  the  exhalations  of  the  river- 
bottoms  and  the  newly-broken  soil;  the  settler  on  the  prairies  of  the 
interior  is  thus  freed  from  the  miasma  that  exerts  usually  so  pestilential 
an  influence  on  the  "  clearings"  of  new  countries  and  in  marshy  districts. 
Ice  is  seldom  seen  in  the  south  part;  and  during  the  summer  months  the 
thermometer  averages  about  80°,  and  in  winter  from  60°  to  75°. 

Soil  and  Productions. — The  soil  is  equally  favorable  with  the  cli- 
mate ;  for  while  every  variety  is  found,  from  the  cheerless  desert  to  the 
exuberantly  fertile  river-bottoms,  the  general  character  is  that  of  great 
fertility.  The  mesquit  grass  in  west  Texas  yields  a  fine  soft  sward, 
which  is  green  even  in  winter,  and  affords,  beyond  all  comparison,  the 
best  natural  pasture  in  the  world.  Cotton,  the  great  staple,  grows  well 
in  almost  every  part  of  the  State,  and  that  grown  near  the  gulf  is  con- 
sidered equal  to  the  celebrated  sea-island.  Indian  corn,  the  other  great 
staple,  is  also  readily  raised  in  almost  every  part.  Two  crops  a  year  are 
planted,  one  in  February,  and  the  other  about  the  middle  of  June,  yield- 
ing often  75  bushels  to  the  acre  of  shelled  corn.  In  the  undulating 
country,  wheat,  rye,  oats,  buckwheat,  and  the  other  small  grains  flourish. 
The  level  country  is  well  adapted  to  the  production  of  sugar,  though  it 
is  not  yet  extensively  cultivated.  Tobacco,  of  a  quality  claimed  to  be 
equal  to  that  of  Cuba,  flourishes  with  little  care,  and  is  doubtless  des- 
tined to  form  one  of  the  staples  of  Texas.  Indigo,  of  a  superior  kind, 
is  indigenous  to  the  State.  Rice  can  be  cultivated  to  any  extent,  and  the 
soil  is  well  adapted  to  flax  and  lump.  According  to  the  census  of  1850, 
there  were  in  Texas  12,198  farms,  occupying  043,976  acres  of  improved 
land,  and  producing  41,729  bushels  of  wheat;  3,108  of  rye  ;  199,017  of 
oats;  6,028,876  of  Indian  corn;  94,645  of  Irish,  and  1,332,158  of  sweet 
potatoes  ;  4,776  of  barley,  and  179.350  of  peas  and  beans  ;  8,354  tons 
of  hay ;  2,344,900  pounds  of  butter ;  95,299  of  cheese  ;  380,825  of 
beeswax  and  honey;  7,351,000  pounds  of  cane-sugar;  23,228,800  of 
cotton;  88,203  of  rice;  66,897  of  tobacco  ;  131,917  of  wool;  and  441,918 
gallons  of  molasses.  Live  stock,  valued  at  $10,412,927 ;  slaughtered 
animals  at  $1,116,137  ;  market  products  at  $12,354  ;  and  orchard  products 
at  $12,505 ;  besides  some  buckwheat,  wine,  grass-seeds,  hops,  flax,  and 
silk.  The  grape,  mulberry,  and  the  delicious  vanilla  are  indigenous  and 
abundant.  The  nopal,  (famous  for  the  production  of  the  cochineal  in- 
sect,) the  mesquit-tree,  (a  species  of  locust,  very  valuable  for  fencing  and 


TEXAS.  507 

buildinc ,)  and  the  tea-tree,  (a  good  substitute  for  the  Chinese  shrub,)  are 
all  native  to  Texas.  The  cacti  and  agave  are  abundant  west  of  the  Nueces. 
Cayenne  pepper  is  grown  in  vast  quantities.  The  fruits  are  no  less 
abundant  and  various  than  its  other  products  :  here  we  have  a  peach 
superior  to  that  of  the  north,  the  nectarine,  the  quince,  the  fig,  the  plum, 
the  crab-apple,  and  a  great  variety  of  berries.  Oranges,  lemons,  limes, 
and  melons  grow  well,  as  do  all  the  garden  vegetables.  Hickory,  walnut, 
and  pecan-nuts  are  plentiful.  Shrubs  and  flowers  are  in  profusion,  and 
of  great  beauty  and  variety,  and  many  of  our  north  exotics  and  hothouse 
plants  are  indigenous  to  Texas ;  such,  for  example,  as  the  gaudy  dahlia. 
Here  bloom  asters  of  every  variety,  geraniums,  lilies,  trumpet-flowers, 
cardinal-flowers,  wax-plants,  mimosas,  etc.  In  short,  a  Texas  prairie  in 
spring  is  the  very  paradise  of  a  botanist,  or  indeed  of  any  lover  of  the 
beauties  of  nature. 

The  forest-trees  are  live-oak  and  other  varieties  of  that  noble  tree, 
cedar,  pine,  palmetto,  ash,  walnut,  hickory,  pecan,  mulberry,  cypress, 
elm,  and  sycamore.  The  east  portion  and  the  river-bottoms  are  the  most 
densely  timbered.  "  Cross  Timbers "  is  a  wooded  section,  stretching, 
says  Marcy,  from  the  Arkansas  river  in  a  south-west  direction  through 
some  400  miles,  with  a  width  varying  from  5  to  30  miles.  The  limits  of 
this  forest  are  very  abrupt,  and  form,  as  it  were,  a  wall  against  the  further 
progress  of  the  arid  prairies.  The  trees  in  this  consist  principally  of 
post-oak  and  black-jack,  standing  at  such  distances  that  wagons  can  pass 
between  them  in  any  direction. 

Animals. — Texas  abounds  in  wild  animals  of  different  kinds.  The 
buffalo  still  roams  in  the  north-west  of  the  State,  and  the  wild  horse  or 
mustang  feeds  in  vast  herds  on  its  undulating  prairies.  Here,  too,  are  deer, 
pumas,  jaguars,  ocelots,  and  wild  cats,  black  bears,  wolves,  foxes,  some 
pecaries,  racoons,  opossums,  rabbits,  hares,  and  abundance  of  squirrels. 
The  prairie-dog,  a  species  of  marmot,  burrows  in  the  ground,  and  their 
communities  extend  for  many  miles.  Mr.  Bartlett  mentions  journeying 
for  three  days  without  for  once  being  out  of  sight  of  them.  "Wild  cattle 
are  in  abundance.  Among  the  mountains  of  the  west  are  found  the 
graceful  antelope,  the  mountain  goat,  and  the  moose,  (the  largest  of  the 
deer  kind.)  Of  the  feathered  tribes  there  are  many  varieties  to  tempt 
the  cupidity  of  the  hunter,  such  as  prairie  hens,  wild  geese,  wild  turkeys, 
brant,  teal,  cavansback  and  common  duck,  pheasants,  quails,  grouse, 
partridges,  woodcock,  pigeons,  turtle-doves,  snipes,  plovers,  and  rice-birds. 
Of  birds  of  prey  are  the  baldheaded  and  Mexican  eagles,  vultures,  hawks, 
and  owls.  Of  waterfowl,  besides  those  mentioned  above,  are  cranes, 
swans,  pelicans,  king-fishers,  and  water-turkeys.  Of  small  birds,  crows, 
blackbirds,  starlings,  bluejays,  woodpeckers,  redbirds,  martens,  swallows, 
and  wrens.  Of  the  birds  noted  for  beauty  of  plumage  are  the  paroquet, 
the  oriole,  the  whippoorwill,  the  cardinal,  and  the  sweet-toned  mouking 
bird.  Of  fish  and  reptiles  there  are  also  a  great  variety,  and  of  excellent 
quality ;  among  the  former  are  the  red-fish,  (a  delicious  fish,  weighing 
50  pounds,)  the  yellow,  white,  and  blue  codfish,  sheepshead;  mullet, 
flounders,  perch,  pike,  suckers,  and  trout ;  and  of  the  latter,  alligators, 
gareels,  rattle,  water,  moccasin,  coachwhip,  copperhead,  chicken,  and  garter 


508  TEXAS. 

snakes,  and  homed  frogs  and  lizards.  Of  shell-fish  are  crahs,  oysters, 
.  clams,  mussels,  crayfish,  shrimps,  and  hard  and  soft  shelled  turtles. 
Among  the  insects  are  the  gadfly  gnat,  the  cantharides  or  Spanish  fly, 
the  honey-bee,  (in  a  wild  State,)  centipedes,  and  a  large  poisonous  spider 
called  the  tarantula. 

Manufactures. — Texas,  as  a  new  State,  has  but  few  manufactures  ; 
nor  till  her  rich  and  beautiful  prairies  and  fertile  bottoms  are  occupied, 
will  capitalists  be  likely  to  turn  their  attention  much  to  this  branch  of 
industry.  According  to  the  census  of  1850,  there  were  309  establish- 
ments engaged  in  mining,  manufactures,  and  the  mechanic  arts,  produc- 
ing each  $500  and  upward  annually,  employing  $539,290  capital,  and 
1,042  male  and  24  female  hands,  consuming  raw  material  worth  $394,642, 
and  yielding  products  valued  at  $1,165,538  The  homemade  manufac- 
tures produced  the  same  year  were  valued  at  $266,984.  There  were  in 
1850,  no  cotton  factories,  and  but  one  woollen  establishment,  employing 
only  $8,000  capital,  and  4  male  and  4  female  hands,  and  producing 
$15,000  worth  of  cloth  and  yarn  ;  and  2  furnaces,  employing  $16,000 
capital,  and  35  male  hands,  and  producing  $55,000  worth  of  castings, 
pig-iron,  etc. 

Internal  Improvements. — In  so  recently  settled  a  State,  little  ad- 
vance can  be  expected  to  have  been  made  in  this  respect,  beyond  opening 
ordinary  roads ;  however,  Texas,  young  as  she  is,  has  begun  to  turn  her 
attention  in  that  direction,  and  in  January,  1855,  72  miles  of  railroad, 
to  connect  Harrisburg  with  Brazos,  were  in  course  of  construction. 
Railroads  are  in  contemplation  from  Galveston  to  Henderson,  from  Gal- 
veston to  Austin,  from  San  Antonio  to  Salina,  from  Henderson  to  Vicks- 
burg,  in  Mississippi,  from  Houston  to  Austin,  and  from  Henderson  to 
Fulton. 

Commerce. — This  State  has  facilities  for  both  internal  and  foreign 
commerce.  Her  most  fertile  districts  are  crossed  by  large  rivers  more  or 
less  navigable  by  steamboats  and  by  smaller  boats,  while  her  numerous 
bays  form  harbors  for  transacting  her  foreign  commerce.  It  is  true  her 
rivers  are  obstructed  by  sandbars  and  rafts  in  some  instances,  but  these 
admit  of  removal.  Although  bars  obstruct  the  inlets  of  her  harbors, 
vessels,  of  from  1,000  to  1,500  tons  may  enter  the  port  of  Galveston. 
The  principal  article  of  export  from  this  State  is  cotton.  The  value  of 
exports  to  foreign  countries  for  the  fiscal  year  1854,  was  $1,314,449  ; 
of  imports,  $231,423  ;  tonnage  entered,  5,249;  cleared,  9,708;  and  owned 
in  the  State,  9,698,  of  which  2,815  was  steam  tonnage;  vessels  built,  1. 
In  the  year  ending  August  31,  1583,  there  had  been  brought  to  the 
shipping  ports  of  the  State,  85,790  bales  of  cotton,  of  which  16,346  were 
exported  to  European  ports;  and  in  1854,  110,325  bales,  of  which 
18,467  was  exported  to  foreign  ports.  Trains  frequently  leave  San  An- 
tonio for  Mexico,  loaded  with  merchandise  suitable  for  the  demands  of 
Chihuahua,  Parras,  and  other  north  Mexican  cities. 

Education. — According  to  the  census  of  1850,  there  were  in  Texas 
2  colleges,  with  165  students,  and  $1,000  income;  349  public  schools, 
with  7,946  pupils,  and  $44,008  income;  and  97  academies  and  other 
schools,  with  3,389  pupils  and  $39,389  income.      Attending  school  as 


TEXAS.  509 

returned  by  families,  18,3S9.      Of  the   free    adult  population,  10,583 
could  not  read  and  write,  of  whom  2,488  were  of  foreign  birth. 

Heligious  Denominations. — Of  328  churches  in  Texas,  in  1850, 
the  Baptists  owned  70,  the  Christians  5,  Episcopalians  5,  Free  Church  7, 
Methodists  173,  Presbyterians  47,  Roman  Catholics  13,  Union  Church 
2,  and  minor  seels,  6 — giving  one  church  to  every  649  persons.  Value 
of  church  property,  §206,930. 

Public  Institutions. — The  State  penitentiary  is  located  at  Hunts- 
ville.  Texas  had  in  1850,  3  public  libraries  with  2,100  volumes;  8 
school  and  Sunday-school  libraries,  with  2,030  volumes;  and  1  college 
library  with  100  volumes. 

Periodicals. — According  to  the  census,  there  were  published  in  1850, 
in  this  State,  5  tri-weekly  and  29  weekly  newspapers,  with  an  aggregate 
annual  circulation  of  1,296,924  copies. 

Population. — Texas   had,  according    to    the    late    census,  212,592 
inhabitants    in    1850,    of    whom    84,869   were   white    males;    69,165 
females;    211    free    colored    males;     186   females;    and   28,700    male, 
and    29,461  female  slaves.      This    population  was  divided  into    28,377 
families,  occupying  27,988  dwellings;  representative  population,  189,327 
Population   to    the    square    mile,  89.      There   were    3,096    deaths,   or 
more     than    14    in    every    1,000    persons,    in    the    year   ending    June 
1,  1850.     In  the  same  period,  only  7  paupers  received  aid  from  the  pub- 
lic funds.     Of  the  free  population,  43,281  were  born  in  the  State;  92,657 
in  other  States;    1,002  in  England;  1,403  in  Ireland;  278  in  Scotland 
and  Wales;  137  in  British  America;  8,191  in  Germany;  647  in  France; 
5,117  in  other  countries;  and  604  whose  places  of  birth  were  unknown 
— making  more  than  11  per  cent,  of  the  free  population  of  foreign  birth. 
Of  the  entire  population,  59  were  deaf  and  dumb,  of  whom  10  were 
slaves;  73  blind,  of  whom  1  was  free  colored,  and  11  were  slaves;  37 
were  insane,  of  whom  none  were  slaves;  and  104  idiotic,  of  whom  11 
were  slaves.     Of  the  entire  population,  4  were  engaged  in  mining;  31,299 
in  agricultural  operations;  4,785  in  manufactures  and  mechanics;  1,737  in 
commerce, trade, and  dealing;  198  in  navigating  the  ocean;  115  in  internal 
navigation;  and  3,246  in  the  learned  professions  and  higher  arts.     The 
influx  of  population  into  Texas,  both  from  other  States  and  from  foreign 
countries,  is  very  great. 

Counties. — Texas  is  divided  into  eighty-eight  counties:  Anderson, 
Angelina,  Austin,  Bastrop,  Bell,  Bexar,  Bowie,  Brazoria,  Brazos,  Burle- 
son, Burnet,  Caldwell,  Calhoun,  Cameron,  Cass,  Cherokee,  Colin,  Colorado, 
Comal,  Cook,  Dallas,  Denton,  De  Witt,  El  Paso,  Falls,  Fannin,  Fayette, 
Fort  Bend,  Galveston,  Guadalupe,  Gillepsie,  Goliad,  Gonzales,  Grayson, 
Grimes,  Harris,  Harrison,  Hays,  Henderson,  Hill,  Hopkins,  Houston, 
Hunt,  Jackson,  Jasper,  Jefferson,  Kaufman,  Lamar,  Lavacca,  Leon,  Li- 
berty, Limestone,  Madison,  Matagorda,  McLennan,  Medina,  Milam,  Mont- 
gomery, Nacogdoches,  Navarro,  Newton,  Nueces,  Orange,  Panola,  Polk, 
Red  River,  Refugio,  Robertson,  Rusk,  Sabine,  San  Augustin,  San  Patricio, 
Shelby,  Smith,  Starr,  Titus,  Travis,  Tyler,  Upshur,  Uvalde,  Vanzandt, 
Victoria,  Walker,  Washington,  Webb,  Wharton,  Williamson,  and  Wood. 
Capital,  Austin. 


510  TEXAS. 

Cities  and  Towns. — Texas  has  no  very  large  towns ;  the  principal 
are  Galveston,  the  commercial  depot  of  the  State,  population  in  1850, 
4,177,  (7,000  in  1853;)  Houston,  2,396 ;  San  Antonio,  3.488,(6,000 
in  1853;)  Marshall,  1,189;  Brownsville,  4,500  in  1853;  and  New 
Eraunfels,  1,298. 

Government. — The  executive  power  of  Texas  is  intrusted  to  a  governor 
and  lieutenant-governor,  elected  by  the  people,  each  for  two  years,  the 
former  receiving  82,000  per  annum  salary,  and  the  latter,  who  is  ex  officio 
president  of  the  Senate,  65  per  day  during  the  session  of  the  legislature. 
The  latter  body  is  constituted,  as  usual  in  the  United  States,  of  a  Senate, 
composed  of  21  members  elected  for  4,  and  a  House  of  Representatives, 
of  66  members  elected  for  2  years — both  chosen  by  popular  vote.  The 
sessions  of  the  legislature  are  biennial,  and  meet  in  December.  Every 
male  citizen  of  the  United  States  (untaxed  Indians  and  negroes  excepted) 
who  is  over  21  years  of  age,  and  shall  have  resided  in  the  State  one  year 
next  preceding  an  election,  or  in  the  county,  town,  or  district  in  which 
he  offers  to  vote,  shall  be  deemed  a  qualified  elector,  except  United 
States  soldiers,  marines,  and  seamen.  The  judiciary  consists — 1,  of  a 
supreme  court,  composed  of  a  chief  and  2  associate  judges  ;  and  2,  of 
14  district  courts,  held  twice  a  year  in  each  county.  There  is 
also  a  county  court  in  each  county.  All  the  judges  of  Texas  are  elected 
by  the  people  for  6  years,  but  the  governor  can,  on  address  from 
two-thirds  of  each  house,  remove  the  judges  of  both  courts.  The 
judges  of  the  supreme  court  receive  32,000,  and  the  district  judges 
each  $1,750  per  annum.  The  State  debt  of  Texas,  in  March,  1855, 
was  £11,055,694;  to  defray  part  of  which,  Congress  appropriated 
$7,750,000  as  an  indemnity  for  certain  territory  relinquished  by  Texas 
to  New  Mexico  on  the  formation  of  the  latter  territory,  and  also  for 
Indian  depredations.  Ordinary  expenditures,  exclusive  of  debt  and 
schools,  8100,000.  Taxable  property  in  1853,  899,155,114.  In  No- 
vember, 1851,  Texas  had  but  one  bank,  capital,  8322,000;  circulation, 
8300,000  ;  coin,  8100,000. 

History. — The  present  State  of  Texas  formed,  previous  to  the  revo- 
lution of  1836,  the  whole  of  the  Mexican  province  of  Texas,  together 
with  portions  of  the  States  of  Tamaulipas,  Coahuila,  Chihuahua,  and 
New  Mexico.  In  consequence  of  the  inducements  held  out  to  settlers, 
an  extensive  emigration  to  this  region  from  the  United  States  commenced 
in  1821,  which  had  swelled  to  sufficient  amount  in  1832  to  induce  the 
inhabitants  to  demand  admission  as  an  independent  member  of  the  Mex- 
ican confederacy ;  which  being  refused,  resulted  in  a  declaration  of  in- 
dependence, that,  after  various  contests  in  arms,  was  completely  achieved 
by  the  defeat  and  capture  of  the  Mexican  president,  Santa  Anna,  at  San 
Jacinto,  in  1836.  Up  to  1845,  Texas  remained  an  independent  republic, 
modeled  after  the  government  of  the  United  States.  In  1846  it  was 
admitted  a  member  of  the  North  American  confederacy,  reserving  the 
right  to  be  divided  into  five  States,  with  the  institution  of  negro  slavery. 
Disputes  arising  with  Mexico  as  to  the  boundary,  (Mexico  claiming  to 
the  Nueces,  and  the  United  States  to  the  Eio  Grande  del  Norte,)  war 
ensued,  in  which  General  Taylor  gained  two  battles  within  the  limits  of 


TEXAS.  511 

the  present  State  of  Texas.  The  treat}-  witb.  Mexico,  at  the  close  of  this 
war  assigned  to  Texas  the  Eio  Grande  as  its  south-west  boundary.  By 
the  Compromise  Act  of  1850,  the  boundaries  of  Texas  were  somewhat 
modified,  she  conceding  to  New  Mexico  a  portion  of  her  northern  terri- 
tory, in  consideration  of  810.000,000  to  be  paid  by  the  United  States 
government. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  west  and  north-west  portions  of  Texas  are  sub- 
ject to  frequent  inroads  from  the  Camanches,  Apaches,  and  other  warlike 
tribes,  who  destroy  property,  murder,  or  carry  into  captivity,  their 
defenceless  victims,  and  drive  off  their  horses,  sheep,  and  cattle. 

Galveston,  a  port  of  entry,  tbe  seat  of  justice  of  Galveston  county, 
and  the  most  populous  and  commercial  city  of  Texas,  is  situated  on  an 
island  at  the  mouth  of  a  bay  of  its  own  name,  about  450  miles  west 
by  south  of  New  Orleans,  and  230  miles  south-east  of  Austin  city. 
Latitude  29°  17'  north,  longitude  94°  50'  west,  The  island  of  Galves- 
ton, which  separates  the  bay  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  is  about  30  miles 
in  length  and  3  miles  in  breadth.  The  surface  is  nearly  level,  and  has  a 
mean  elevation  of  only  4  or  5  feet  above  the  water.  The  bay  extends 
northward  from  the  city  to  the  mouth  of  Trinity  river,  a  distance  of  35 
miles,  and  varies  in  breadth  from  12  to  18  miles.  The  harbor  of  Gal- 
veston, which  is  the  best  in  the  State,  has  12  or  14  feet  of  water  over  the 
bar  at  low  tide.  Galveston  is  one  of  the  most  flourishing  ports  on  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  carries  on  an  active  trade.  Its  shipping,  June  30, 
1852,  amounted  to  an  aggregate  of  1,489  tons  registered,  and  4,004  tons 
enrolled  and  licensed.  "  Of  the  latter,  3,646  tons  were  employed  in  the 
coast  trade,  and  1,808  tons  in  steam  navigation.  The  foreign  arrivals 
for  the  year  were  21,  (tons,  5,974,)  of  which  19,  (tons,  5,480)  were  by 
foreign  vessels.  The  clearances  for  foreign  ports  were  21, — (tons,  6,287,) 
of  which  1,461  were  in  American  bottoms.  Steamboats  make  regular 
passages  to  New  Orleans,  and  to  the  towns  in  the  interior  of  Texas. 
Three  or  four  newspapers  are  published  here.  The  city  contains  a 
fine  market-bouse,  a  town  hall,  about  8  churches,  and  several  large 
botels.  The  private  houses  are  mostly  of  wood  and  painted  white, 
the  streets  are  wide,  straight,  and  rectangular,  and  bordered  by  numer- 
ous flower  gardens.  Railroads  are  projected  from  Galveston  to  Houston, 
and  to  Red  river.  First  settled  in  1837.  Population  in  1853,  estimated 
at  7,000. 


512  INDIAN  TERRITORY. 


INDIAN   TERRITORY. 


This  is  a  tract  of  country  set  apart  by  the  Government  of  the  Unitet 
States  as  a  permanent  home  for  the  aboriginal  tribes  removed  thither 
from  east  of  the  Mississippi  river,  as  well  as  those  indigenous  to  the 
territory.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Territory  of  Kansas,  south 
by  Texas,  (from  which  it  is  partly  separated  by  Red  river,)  east  by 
Arkansas,  and  west  by  Texas  and  New  Mexico.  Indian  territory  lies 
between  33°  30'  and  37°  north  latitude,  and  between  94°  30'  and  103° 
west  longitude,  being  about  450  miles  long  and  from  35  to  240  miles  in 
width,  including  an  area  of  perhaps  71,127  square  miles.  The  recently 
formed  Territory  of  Kansas,  and  a  portion  of  the  south  of  Nebraska,  were 
constituted  from  the  territory  originally  included  within  the  so-called 
Indian  Territory. 

Face  of  the  Country. — There  is  a  general  inclination  of  the 
country  from  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  on  the  western  border  of 
Indian  Territory,  toward  the  Mississippi  river,  with  a  slight  inclination 
to  the  south-east.  A  vast,  barren  and  sandy  tract,  generally  known  as 
the  Great  American  Desert,  occupies  the  north-west  portion  of  the  ter- 
ritory. The  rest  of  the  territory  spreads  out,  for  the  most  part,  into 
undulating  plains  of  great  extent,  with  the  exception  of  the  Ozark  or 
Washita  mountains,  which  enter  the  east  portion  of  the  Indian  Territory 
from  Arkansas.  This  territory,  however,  has  been  too  imperfectly 
explored  to  enable  us  to  speak  with  great  precision  of  its  surface. 

Rivers. — Indian  Territory  is  drained  by  the  Arkansas  and  Red  rivers, 
with  their  tributaries;  these  all  have  their  sources  among  or  near  the 
Rocky  mountains,  and  flowing  in  an  east  or  south-east  direction,  across 
or  on  the  borders  of  the  territory,  discharge  their  waters  into  the 
Mississippi.  None  of  these  rivers  have  their  source  within  the  territory. 
The  Red  river  forms  part  of  the  south  boundary,  while  the  Arkansas 
passes  through  Indian  Territory  into  the  State  of  the  same  name.  The 
tributaries  of  the  Arkansas  are  the  Cimorron,  Neosha,  Verdigris,  and 
the  north  and  south  forks  of  the  Canadian;  those  of  the  Red  river  are 
the  Washita,  False  Washita,  and  little  Red  river;  all  having  nearly  an 
east  course,  except  the  Necsha,  which  runs  south.  These  rivers  have 
generally  broad  and  shallow  channels,  and  in  the  dry  season  are  little 
more  than  a  series  of  sandy  pools;  in  the  winter  and  spring  only  are  they 
navigable  by  flat-boats  and  canoes,  or  for  steamboats  (if  at  all)  near  their 
months.  The  Arkansas  and  Red  rivers  are  both  navigable  for  steam- 
boats, but  to  what  distance  we  are  not  accurately  informed.  The 
Arkansas  has    sourse  of  about  2,000  miles,  and  Red  river,  of   1,200  miles. 

Climate.—  >f  the  climate  we  have  little  definite  information, but  that 
of  the  east  poi  on  is  probably  similar  to  the  climates  of  Arkansas  and 
Missouri,  on  wl  Ii  it  borders.  The  summers  are  long  and  extremely 
dry,  the  days  being  very  hot,  with  cool  nights. 


INDIAN  TERRITORY.  513 

Soil  and  Productions. — On  this  point  our  information  is  limited. 
The  east  portion,  occupied  by  the  partly-civilized  Indians,  is  represented 
as  fertile  prairie  land,  intersperced  "with  mountain  and  flat  hills"  for 
an  extent  of  200  miles  westward  from  the  boundary  of  Arkansas.  On 
the  borders  of  the  streams  are  strips  of  woodland,  mostly  cotton-wood 
and  willows;  the  country  is,  however,  generally  destitute  of  timber.  Th 
Cross  Timbers,  thus  described  by  Captain  Marcy,  are  partly  in  this  terri 
tory: — "A  narrow  strip  of  woodland,  called  the  Cross  Timbers,  from  5 
to  30  miles  wide,  extending  from  the  Arkansas  river  some  500  miles  in  a 
south-west  direction  to  the  Brazos,  divides  the  arable  land  from  the  great 
prairies,  for  the  most  part  arid  and  sterile."  The  north-west  portion  of 
the  Territory  is  mostly  a  barren,  dreary  waste  "  of  bare  rocks,  gravel,  and 
sand,"  destitute  of  all  vegetation,  except,  perhaps,  a  few  stunted  shrubs, 
"yuccas,  cactuses,  grape-vines,  and  cucurbitaceous  plants."  The  water 
is  brackish,  and  the  surface  in  many  places  covered  with  saline  efflores- 
cences. The  eastern  prairies  are  well  adapted  to  grazing,  and  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  adjoining  States  flourish  there. 

Animals. — Vast  herds  of  buffaloes  and  wild  horses  roam  over  its 
prairies,  and  antelope,  deer,  prairie-dog,  and  some  other  animals  are 
found ;  wild  turkeys,  grouse,  etc.,  are  among  the  birds.  Upon  the  other 
points  generally  treated  of  in  our  articles  on  the  States  and  Territories, 
we  have  too  little  reliable  information  to  speak  in  a  work  meant  to 
be  one  of  facts,  and  not  of  conjectures.  Indian  Territory  forms  a  part 
of  the  great  Louisiana  tract  purchased  by  President  Jefferson  from 
France,  in  1803.  The  United  States  Government  have  military  stations 
at  Fort  Gibson,  on  the  Arkansas  ;  Fort  Towson,  on  the  Red ;  and  Fort 
Washita,  on  the  Washita.  The  Territory  of  Kansas,  with  a  portion  of 
Nebraska,  was  formed  from  what  was  formerly  called  Indian  Territory, 
in  1854. 

Population. — We  have  no  census  returns  of  the  population  of  this 
Territory,  but  the  east  portion  is  mainly  in  the  possession  of  tribes  removed 
thither  by  the  United  States  Government,  including,  among  others,  the 
Choctaws,  Chickasaws,  Creeks,  Cherokees,  Senecas,  Shawnees,  and  Semi- 
noles.  The  central  and  west  portions  are  roamed  over  by  the  Osages, 
Camanches,  Kioways,  Pawnees,  Arrapahoes,  and  some  other  nomad 
tribes.  Some  of  the  removed  tribes  have  made  considerable  advances  in 
agriculture  and  the  industrial  arts,  and  have  established  schools  and 
churches,  while  others  are  relapsing  into  indolence  and  vagrancy,  and, 
following  the  common  fate  of  the  savage  when  in  contact  with  the  civil- 
ized man,  are  fast  diminishing  under  the  influence  of  intemperance  and 
/icious  connections  with  abandoned  whites. 
33 


%! 


• 


^ 


514  TERRITORY  OF  KANSAS. 


TERRITORY  OF  KANSAS. 


This  Territory  was  formed  by  act  of  Congress  passed  May,  1854,  and  lies 
between  37°  and  40°  north  latitude,  and  between  about  94°  30'  and 
107°  west  longitude.  About  100  miles  of  the  west  portion  lies  between 
38°  and  40°  north  latitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the*  north  by  Nebraska 
Territory,  east  by  the  States  of  Missouri  and  Arkansas,  south  by  Indian 
Territory  and  New  Mexico,  and  west  by  New  Mexico  and  Utah.  This 
Territory  is  about  630  miles  in  length,  from  east  to  west,  and  208  in  its 
widest,  and  139  in  its  west  part,  including  an  area  of  nearly  114,798 
square  miles.  The  Rocky  mountains  separate  it  from  Utah,  and  the 
Missouri  river  forms  a  small  part  of  the  north-east  boundary. 

Face  op  the  Country. — (We  quote  Hale  and  his  authorities.)  The 
face  of  the  country  is  nearly  uniform  fronf-^he  State  line  to  the  base  of 
the  mountains,  being  one  continued  succession  of  gently  undulating  ridges 
and  valleys,  the  general  inclination  of  the  ridges  is  north  and  south, 
but  they  are  thrown  into  various  other  directions  by  the  course  of  the 
streams  and  the  conformation  of  the  valleys.  The  first  district  varies 
in  width  from  80  to  200  miles.  The  second  district,  separated  from 
the  first  by  a  tortuous  belt  of  100  yards  in  width,  presents  to  the  eye 
a  surface  apparently  of  sand,  but  covered  with  grasses  and  rushes, 
especially  in  the  valleys  and  hollows,  where  grass  is  abundant  during  the 
whole  season.  This  district  extends  from  Sandy  creek  west  about  350 
miles.  The  third  district,  a  narrow,  irregular  belt,  is  a  formation  of  marl 
and  earthy  limestone,  continued  south  from  Nebraska.  In  this  district 
occur  those  peculiar  formations  called  "buttes,"  varying  in  width  from 
100  feet  to  several  hundred  yards,  with  flat  surfaces,  and  nearly  perpen- 
dicular sides,  apparently  formed  by  the  subsidence  of  the  surrounding 
land.  The  fourth  district  is  somewhat  similar  to  the  first,  at  the  base 
of  the  Black  hill,  where  it  has  been  enriched  for  ages  by  the  debris 
but  there  is  more  wood  upon  it.  The  east  portion  is  pastoral,  but 
the  west,  skirting  the  hills,  fertile,  finely  timbered,  and  watered,  abound- 
ing in  game,  wild  fruits,  and  flowers.  The  first  district,  occupying 
the  space  between  the  Black  hills  and  the  Rocky  mountains,  pre- 
sents every  variety  of  hill  and  dale,  mountain  and  valley,  traversed  by 
rivulets,  and  adorned  with  lakes;  west  of  this  succeeds  a  sterile  expanse 
of  many  miles,  covered  with  waving  lines  of  sand,  and  surrounded  by 
peaks  of  bare  granite;  there  are,  however,  some  rich  valleys,  and  the  hol- 
low mumur  of  rivulets  may  be  heard  beneath  your  feet.  The  first  district 
has  a  limestone  basis,  and  the  great  coal-fields  of  Missouri  extend  30  or 
40  miles  into  it.  This  portion  is  unrivaled  in  fertility,  and  has  valuable 
forest-trees,  including  hickory,  ash,  walnut,  and  sugar-maple,  but  it  is  not 
quite  so  well  timbered  as  the  country  in  the  same  range  in  Missouri. 
The  valley  of  the  Kansas  is  here  from  20  to  40  miles  wide,  has  a  deep 
alluvium,  and  is  very  productive.     The  valley  of  the  Missouri  is  of  a 


TERRITORY  OF  KANSAS.  515 

similar  character.  Between  the  Nebraska  and  Platte  rivers,  says  Pro- 
fessor James,  the  surface  of  the  country  presents  a  continued  succession 
of  small  rounded  hills,  becoming  larger  as  you  approach  the  rivers.  The 
soil  is  deep,  and  reposes  on  beds  of  argillaceous  sandstone  and  secondary 
limestone.  The  second  district  is  underlaid  by  sandstone;  the  basis  of 
the  third  is  not  known,  nor  is  that  of  the  fourth  and  fifth.  Coal  is  be- 
lieved to  exist  plentifully  in  the  last  two,  as  well  as  an  abundant  supply 
of  water-power. 

Rivers. — The  rivers  following  the  declination  of  the  country  all  have 
an  east  or  south-east  course,  with  the  exception  of  some  of  the  smaller 
tributaries.  The  Missouri  forms  the  north-east  boundary  through  nearly 
a  degree  of  latitude,  with  but  little  variation  to  the  west,  though  with 
many  windings.  The  Kansas,  the  largest  river,  whose  course  is  mostly 
within  the  Territory,  joins  the  Missouri  just  before  this  river  enters  the 
State  of  Missouri.  Including  its  main  branches,  the  Eepublican  and 
Smoky  Hill  forks,  it  has  a  course  of  from  800  to  1,000  miles.  The  lat- 
ter runs  nearly  through  the  middle  of  the  Territory,  in  a  direction  a  little 
north  of  east.  The  Republican  fork  rises  in  the  north-west  of  Kansas, 
but  soon  passes  into  Nebraska,  which  it  traverses  for  from  200  to  300 
miles,  when  it  returns  to  Kansas,  and  joins  the  Smoky  Hill  fork  in  about 
latitude  39°  40'  west.  The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Kansas  below  the 
junction  are,  from  the  north,  the  Big  Blue  river,  rising  in  Nebraska,  and 
by  far  the  largest,  Egoma-saha,  Soldier's  creek,  Santelle,  and  Stranger 
rivers,  and  from  the  south  Wacharasa.  The  chief  affluents  of  the  Smoky 
Hill  fork  are  the  Great  Saline  and  Solomon's  forks,  both  from  the  north. 
The  Osage  rises  near  97°  west  longitude,  south  of  the  Kansas,  and  passes 
east  into  Missouri.  The  Arkansas  rises  on  the  west  boundary,  and  has, 
with  the  exception  of  a  slight  bend  into  New  Mexico,  about  half  its  course 
in  this  Territory.  The  Neosho,  the  Verdigris,  and  the  Little  Arkansas  are 
its  principal  tributaries  from  Kansas,  all  in  the  south-east  portion.  The 
Little  Osage  and  Marmaton  have  their  sources  in  this  Territory.  The  Platte 
has  its  origin  in  the  north  of  Kansas,  and  runs  north  into  Nebraska. 
Steamboats  ascend  the  Kansas  to  Fort  Riley,  and  the  Arkansas,  at  high 
water,  100  miles  within  the  Territory.  The  rivers  in  general  have  broad, 
shallow  beds,  which,  in  dry  seasons,  form  little  more  than  a  series  of 
pools. 

Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists. — Prominent  among  these  stands 
Pike's  peak,  near  the  west  border  of  Kansas,  which  soars  to  the  esti- 
mated hight  of  12,000  feet,  and  is  always  covered  with  snow.  The 
usual  variety,  that  characterizes  mountainous  regions,  of  gorge,  precipice, 
pass,  peak,  valley,  and  cascade,  is  here  exhibited.  The  South  park  is  a 
beautiful  natural  enclosure,  covered  with  grass  and  surrounded  by 
mountains,  at  a  great  elevation  above  the  sea.  The  buttes  have  been 
already  referred  to.  Even  in  the^east  and  middle  sections,  splendid 
panoramic  views  may  be  enjoyed  from  the  river-bluffs,  which  rise  from 
50  to  500  feet. 

Minerals. — Reddish,  yellow,  and 'blue  limestone,  with  a  tendency  to 
crystallization,  chert,  granite  feldspar,  red  sandstone,  (often  occurring  in 
boulders   of  several  tons  weight,)  and  coal  in  several   places,  are  the 


K 


516  TERRITORY  OF  KANSAS. 

known  minerals,  besides,  pebbles  of  granite,  quartz,  and  porphyry,  with 
some  large  blocks  of  porphyritic  granite. 

Forest  Trees. — For  200  miles  west  of  the  Missouri,  several  varieties 
of  oak,  ash,  sycamore,  hickory,  buckeye,  walnut,  hackberry,  sugar-maple, 
and  surnac  are  found,  in  considerable  abundance  on  the  river-bottoms ; 
while  in  the  second  district  timber  is  very  scarce,  except  a  few  cotton- 
wood  and  willow  trees  on  the  margin  of  the  streams.  In  the  mountain- 
ous regions  of  the  west,  forests  of  cedar,  pine,  poplar,  and  quaking-ash 
clothe  the  slopes  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  while  the  river-bottoms  are 
covered  with  cottonwood,  willow,  box-elder,  cherry,  current,  and  service 
bushes. 

Zoology. — The  buffalo,  elk,  deer,  antelope,  prairie  dogs,  and  squirrels 
are  among  the  quadrupeds;  and  of  the  feathered  tribes  there  are  the 
wild-turkey  and  goose,  prairie  hen,  partridge,  golden  oriole,  blue  jay,  red 
bird,  crow,  and  a  great  variety  of  the  smaller  birds.  Among  the  reptiles 
is  the  horned  frog. 

Forts  and  Stations. — First  among  these  are  the  forts,  viz  :  Fort 
Riley,  near  the  confluence  of  the  Republican  and  Solomon's  forks  of  the 
Kansas ;  Fort  Leavenworth,  on  the  Missouri  river,  31  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Kansas ;  Fort  Atkinson,  on  the  Arkansas,  near  the  100° 
of  west  longitude;  and  Bent's  Fort,  on  the  Arkansas,  between  108°  and 
104°  west  longitude.  The  stations  are  Walnut  Creek  post-oflBce,  on  the 
Arkansas,  at  the  mouth  of  the  creek  of  that  name,  and  near  the  99°  of 
west,  longitude  ;  Big  Timbers,  a  favorite  council-ground  and  rendezvous, 
35  miles  below  Bent's  Fort;  Pueblo  de  San  Carlos,  on  the  Upper  Arkan- 
sas, in  the  105°  of  west  longitude;  a  post-office  at  the  Delaware  city,  10 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  Kansas;  Elm  Grove,  a  noted  camping-ground, 
25  miles  west  of  Westport,  Missouri ;  and  Council  Grove,  a  famed  stopping 
place  on  the  Santa  Fe  trail,  in  about  38 |°  north  latitude,  and  96f  °  west  lon- 
gitude. There  are  besides  a  large  number  of  missionary  stations,  among 
which  are  the  Kickapoo,  4  miles  above  Fort  Leavenworth  ;  the  Iowa  and 
Sac,  near  the  north  boundary ;  the  Shawnee,  (Methodist,)  8  miles  up  the 
Kansas;  and  2  miles  from  it  the  Baptist,  and  at  3  miles  the  Friend's  School. 
Sixty  miles  up  the  Kansas  is  the  Catholic  mission  among  the  Pottawa- 
tomies;  Meeker's  Ottowa  mission,  south  of  the  Kansas  river,  near  the 
Missouri  line  ;  and  near  it  the  Baptist  Missionary  and  Labor  School ;  and 
the  Catholic  Osage  mission,  on  the  Neosho  river,  in  the  south-east  of  the 
Territory,  which  has  one  of  the  largest  missions  and  schools  in  Kansas, 
and  has  10  sub-missionary  stations  within  60  miles  of  it,  which  are 
visited  monthly  from  it. 

Population. — The  population  of  this  new  Territory  is  mostly  com- 
prised of  wholly  or  partly-domesticated  Indians,  (in  many  instances 
removed  thither  from  east  of  the  Mississippi,)  and  of  the  nomad  tribes 
of  the  interior  and  west  portion  of  Kansas.  Among  the  former  are  tho 
Sacs  and  Foxes,  Iowas,  Kickapoos,  Pottawatomies,  Delawares,  Shawnees, 
Kansas,  Chippewas,  Ottawas,  Peorias,  Kaskaskias,  Piankashaws,  Weas, 
Miamies,  Osages,  and  Cherokees  ;  the  latter  are  only  partly  in  this  Ter- 
ritory. Of  the  nomad  tribes,  the  principal  are  the  Camanches,  Kiowas, 
Cheyennes,  and  Arapahoes.      Large  portions  of  the  claims  of  the  domes- 


TERRITORY  OF  NEBRASKA.  517 

ticated  Indians  have  already  been  extinguished,  and  this  process  is  still 
going  on,  and  they  will  probably  soon  have  sold  all,  and  have  been 
removed,  or  absorbed  in  the  mass  of  the  citizens.  Intemperance,  im- 
providence, and  disease  are  powerfully  co-operating  with  the  greed  of  the 
white  man  in  sweeping  them  from  the  face  of  the  earth.  That  portion 
of  them — and  there  is  such  a  portion — who  are  receiving  the  education 
and  habits  of  civilization  from  the  missionaries,  will  probably  be  gradually 
incorporated  with  the  mass  of  citizens. 

Government  and  History. — The  government  of  Kansas  is  similar 
to  that  of  other  territories  of  the  United  States. — See  Minnesota. 

Kansas  formed  part  of  the  great  Louisiana  purchase  acquired  from 
France  in  1803,  and  subsequently  formed  part  of  the  Missouri,  Arkansas, 
and  Indian  Territories,  from  which  last  it  was,  (as  has  been  stated,)  in 
1854,  erected  into  a  separate  Territory,  after  a  stormy  debate  in  the 
national  Congress  as  to  whether  the  Missouri  Compromise  (an  act  passed 
in  1820,  forbidding  slavery  north  of  36°  30'  north  latitude)  should  be 
repealed.  The  repeal  was  carried  by  a  large  majority  in  the  Senate,  and 
a  decided  one  in  the  House ;  it  being  thus  left  to  a  majority  of  the  white 
inhabitants  of  the  Territory,  when  they  may  apply  for  admission  into  the 
confederacy  as  a  State,  to  allow  or  forbid  slavery  as  they  may  deem  proper. 


TERRITORY   OF   NEBRASKA. 


This  Territory  lies  between  40°  and  49°  north  lattitude,  and  between 
95°  and  113°  west  longitude. 

Length,  from  south  to  north,  625  miles  ;  greatest  length,  from  south- 
east to  north-west,  about  1,000  miles;  greatest  breadth,  from  east  to 
west,  above  600  miles.  It  covers  an  area  of  about  335,882  square  miles, 
or  land  enough  to  form  six  such  States  as  Illinois.  This  vast  tract  i 
bounded  on  the  north  by  British  America,  east  by  Minnesota  Territory 
and  the^  States  of  Iowa  and  Missouri,  (from  which  it  is  separated  by  the 
Missouri  and  White  Earth  rivers,)  south  by  Kanzas  Territory,  and  west 
by  Utah,  Oregon,  and  Washington  Territories,  from  which  it  is  separated 
by  the  Rocky  mountains. 

Face  op  the  Country. — The  greater  part  of  this  Territory,  as  far  as 
is  known,  seems  to  consist  of  a  high  prairie  land.  A  chain  of  highlands, 
called  the  Black  hills,  runs  from  near  the  Platte  river,  in  a  north-east 
direction,  to  the  Missouri  river,  which  they  approach  in  about  102°  west 


518  TERRITORY  OF  NEBRASKA. 

longitude,  dividing  the  waters  running  into  the  Yellowstone  from  those 
flowing  into  the  Missouri,  below  its  great  south-eastern  bend.  On  the 
west,  the  Rocky  mountains  rear  their  lofty  summits,  in  some  instances 
above  the  snow-line,  and  send  out  spurs  into  Nebraska.  Fremont's  peak, 
the  loftiest  known  summit  in  this  chain,  in  the  United  States,  on  the 
west  border  of  this  Territory,  is  13,570  feet  in  hight,  and  Long's  peak, 
at  the  south-west  extremity,  about  12,000  feet.  A  recent  authority, 
writing  on  the  spot,  thus  speaks  of  Nebraska :  "  The  soil,  for  a  space  varying 
from  50  to  100  miles  west  of  the  Missouri  river,  is  nearly  identical  with 
that  of  Missouri  and  Iowa.  The  highlands  are  open  prairie  grounds, 
covered  with  grasses ;  the  river  bottom,  a  deep,  rich  loam,  shaded  by 
dense  forest  trees.  From  this  district  to  about  the  mouth  of  the  Running 
Water  river,  is  one  boundless  expanse  of  rolling  prairie,  so  largely  inter- 
mingled with  sand  as  to  be  unfit  for  agriculture,  but  carpeted  with  suc- 
culent grasses.  A  third  district,  extending  in  a  belt  mauy  miles  east  and 
west  of  the  Mandan  village,  on  the  most  north  bend  of  the  Missouri,  and 
southward  across  the  southern  boundary  of  the  Territory,  is  a  formation 
of  marl  and  earthy  limestone,  which  can  not  be  otherwise  than  very  pro- 
ductive. A  fourth  district,  lying  north  of  the  Missouri  river,  is  a  suc- 
cession of  undulating  plains,  fertile,  but  rather  dry,  and  covered  with  a 
thick  sward  of  grass,  on  which  feed  innumerable  herds  of  bison,  elk,  and 
deer.  A  fifth  district  is  at  the  base  of  the  Black  hills,  extending  from 
thence  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  including  the  valleys  of  the  Yellow- 
stone, Maria's,  and  other  smaller  rivers.  The  valley  of  the  Yellowstone 
is  spacious,  fertile,  and  salubrious.  The  streams  are  fringed  with  trees, 
from  whence  the  valley  expands  many  miles  to  the  mountains.  This 
region  is  one  of  the  finest  on  the  globe."  Coal  has  been  found  in  the 
north-western  counties  of  Missouri,  and  it  is  probable  may  be  found  in 
the  south-east  portion  of  Nebraska.  The  limestone  formation  of  Missouri 
and  Iowa  extends  over  the  first  district  of  Nebraska,  described  in  the 
passage  just  quoted.  Beyond  that  district  the  formation  is  sandstone, 
and  rocks  of  the  diluvian  period  —  the  former  south  and  west  of  the 
Missouri,  chiefly,  and  the  latter  north  of  it.  Coal  has  been  seen  cropping 
out  in  various  places  along  the  Nebraska  river,  in  the  south-west  part 
of  the  Territory,  by  Fremont,  and  other  travelers. 

The  first  district  is  the  only  really  good  agricultural  region  at  present. 
It  is  a  rich  loam,  finely  timbered  and  watered.  The  second  is  strictly 
pastoral.  The  third  has  soil,  but  is  destitute  of  timber,  and  very  sparsely 
supplied  with  springs.  The  fourth  also  has  soil,  but  has  the  same  draw- 
backs. The  fifth,  as  already  stated,  is  one  of  the  finest  regions  on  the 
globe,  in  the  same  latitude. 

Rivers.— This  extensive  tract  is  traversed  by  the  Missouri,  one  of  the 
most  important  rivers  on  the  globe,  which  takes  its  rise  on  the  western 
border  of  Nebraska,  among  the  declivities  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  runs 
north-east  for  about  1,000  miles,  to  48°  20'  north  latitude;  receiving  a 
large  number  of  affluents  from  the  north,  and  the  Yellowstone,  nearly 
1,000  miles  long,  with  a  multitude  of  sub-tributaries  from  the  south ; 
then  turning  to  the  south-east,  pursues  its  course  for  1,800  miles  further, 
having  its  flood  of  waters  swelled  by  the  influx  of  a  constant  succession 


TERRITORY  OF  NEBRASKA.  519 

of  streams,  among  which  the  principal  are  in  the  order  named — the  Little 
Missouri,  the  Mankizilah  or  Lower  White  Earth,  the  Niobrarah  and  its 
affluent  the  Kehah  Paha,  and  the  Nebraska  or  Platte  river,  all  within 
the  Territory.  The  most  important  of  the  northern  tributaries,  beginning 
at  the  west,  are  the  Gallatin,  Madison,  and  Jefferson  rivers  (whose  con- 
fluence forms  the  main  stream),  followed  by  the  Dearborn,  Maria's,  Milk, 
Upper  White  Earth,  and  numerous  small  streams.  The  Platte  or 
Nebraska,  which  gives  name  to  the  Territory,  rises  in  two  branches,  one 
in  the  west  of  Kansas,  and  the  other  in  the  south-west  part  of  Nebraska, 
and  flows  east  for  about  1,200  miles  through  the  south  part  of  this  region. 
The  Big  Horn  and  Tongue  rivers  are  the  principal  tributaries  of  the 
Yellowstone.  The  Missouri  is  navigable  to  the  Great  falls,  about  3,830 
miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  Col.  Stevens  is  of  opinion  it  might 
be  navigated  by  small  steamboats  200  or  300  miles  above  the  falls. 
The  Yellowstone  has  been  navigated  for  80  miles  by  steamboats,  and  it 
may  be  ascended  200  or  300  further  by  flatboats.  The  El  Paso  steamer 
ascended  the  Nebraska  in  the  spring  of  1853,  to  the  distance  of  400  or 
500  miles,  but  this  river  can  only  be  navigated  at  the  highest  water,  and 
even  then  the  navigation  is  difficult.  As  its  name  imports,  it  is  broad 
and  shallow,  and  during  the  dry  season  is,  in  parts,  only  a  series  of 
pools.  The  spring  freshets  in  the  Missouri  usually  occur  about  the  1st 
of  June. 

Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists. — The  Great  falls  of  the  Missouri, 
and  the  gorge  above,  enclosed  with  perpendicular  rocks  1,200  feet  high, 
may  claim  the  first  place  among  the  striking  natural  objects  of  this  Terri- 
tory. The  falls  extend  through  a  space  of  many  miles,  and  vary  in 
hight  from  19  to  87  feet,  the  hight  of  the  Great  fall.  Near  42°  north 
latitude,  and  103°  west  longitude,  on  the  head  waters  of  Lower  White 
Earth  river  or  Mankizilah,  and  between  Fort  Laramie  and  the  Missouri, 
is  a  remarkable  tract  or  valley,  about  30  miles  wide,  and  perhaps  80  or 
90  long,  called  Mauvaises  Terrcs,  or  "  bad  lands,"  from  its  thin,  sterile 
soil,  which  is  covered  with  only  a  very  scanty  growth  of  grass.  The 
appearance  of  this  region  presents  a  most  striking  contrast  to  that  of  the 
adjacent  country.  "  From  the  uniform,  monotonous,  and  open  prairies, 
the  traveler  suddenly  descends  100  or  200  feet  into  a  valley  that  looks  as 
if  it  had  sunk  away  from  the  surrounding  world,  leaving  standing  all  over 
it  thousands  of  abrupt,  irregular,  prismatic  and  columnar  masses,  fre- 
quently capped  with  irregular  pyramids,  and  stretching  up  to  a  hight 
of  from  100  to  200  feet  or  more.  So  thickly  are  these  natural  towers 
Btudded  over  the  surface  of  this  extraordinary  region,  that  the  traveler 
treads  his  way  through  deep,  confined,  labyrinthine  passages,  not  unlike 
the  narrow  irregular  streets  and  lanes  of  some  quaint  old  town  of  the 
European  continent.  One  might  almost  imagine  oneself  approaching 
some  magnificent  city  of  the  dead,  where  the  labor  and  genius  of  forgotten 
nations  had  left  behind  them  the  monuments  of  their  art  and  skill."  In 
one  sense,  this  region  is  truly  a  great  "city  of  the  deed,"  as  it  contains, 
in  the  most  extraordinary  profusion,  the  fossil  skeletons  of  various  tribes 
of  animals  now  extinct,  particularly  of  the  Pachydermata.  Among 
others,  there  was  found  a  nearly  entire  skeleton  of  the  Paloeotherium, 


520  TERRITORY  OF  NEBRASKA. 

eighteen  feet  in  length.  Unhappily  its  substance  was  too  fragile  te 
admit  of  removal.  Fremont's  Peak,  13,579  feet  high,  and  Long's  Peak, 
12,000  feet  high,  both  already  referred  to,  lie  in  the  west  and  south-west 
part  of  the  Territory,  the  former  immediately  on  the  boundary  of  Oregon. 
The  bluffs,  which  often  recede  for  several  miles  from  the  rivers,  fre- 
quently rise  from  50  to  500  feet  above  the  bottom-lands,  and  present  the 
appearance  of  castles,  towers,  domes,  ramparts,  terraces,  etc.  In  the 
third  district  described  above,  elevations  "  called  buttes  by  the  Canadian 
French,  and  cerros  by  the  Spaniards,  are  profusely  scattered.  Here  and 
'there  the  traveler  finds  the  surface  varying  in  diameter  from  100  feet  to 
a  mile,  elevated  from  15  to  50  feet  above  the  surrounding  surface.  They 
are  not  hills  or  knobs,  the  sides  of  which  are  more  or  less  steep  and 
covered  with  grass.  Their  sides  are  generally  perpendicular,  their  sur- 
faces flat,  and  often  covered  with  mountain  cherries  and  other  shrubs. 
They  have  the  appearance  of  having  been  suddenly  elevated  above  the 
surrounding  surface  by  some  specific  cause." 

Climate. — In  a  region  extending  through  9°  of  latitude  and  18°  of 
longitude,  there  must  necessarily  be  considerable  variation  in  temperature 
and  climate.  Though  the  climate  of  Nebraska  has  not  been  accurately 
ascertained,  enough  is  known,  however,  for  practical  purposes.  In  east- 
ern Nebraska  vegetation  is  some  weeks  later  than  in  Iowa,  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  mountains  some  weeks  later  still.  From  the  city  of 
St.  Louis,  traveling  either  northward  or  westward,  the  climate  becomes 
colder  about  in  the  same  degree — the  difference  of  elevation,  traveling 
west,  being  about  equivalent  in  its  effects  to  the  difference  of  latitude 
traveling  north.  Snow  falls  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  about  the  1st 
of  September,  and  at  Council  Bluffs  about  the  1st  of  November.  These 
may  be  regarded  as  the  extremes. 

Soil  and  Timber. — We  will  briefly  recapitulate  the  best  soils  as  far 
as  ascertained.  Near  the  south-east  extremity,  the  soil  is  often  14  feet  deep. 
The  valleys  of  the  Yellowstone  and  its  tributaries  are  represented  as  the 
garden  of  Nebraska.  For  about  250  miles  west  of  the  Missouri  river, 
says  Hale,  the  prairie  through  which  the  Nebraska  passes  is  very  rich  and 
admirably  adapted  to  cultivation  ;  and  the  whole  "divide"  for  the  distance 
named,  between  the  Kansas  and  Nebraska,  is  a  soil  easy  to  till  and  yield- 
ing heavy  crops.  Much  of  the  prairie  region,  where  untillable,  is  yet 
covered  with  rich  pastures.  Deficiency  of  timber  is  the  great  want  of 
Nebraska ;  yet  there  are  many  well-timbered  districts.  There  are  dense 
forests  of  cottonwood,  on  the  Missouri  bottoms,  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Nebraska  to  Minnesota,  and  on  the  bluffs  and  highlands  bordering  the 
Missouri  river,  large  tracts  of  timber,  besides  countless  groves  of  oak, 
black  walnut,  lime,  slippery  elm,  ash,  etc.  The  Nebraska  valley  is  stated 
to  be  densely  wooded  for  many  miles  on  each  side,  to  a  distance  of  more 
than  100  miles  above  its  mouth,  and  the  valleys  of  the  rivers  and  streams 
between  it  and  the  Lower  White  Earth  as  sufficiently  well  timbered  for 
dense  settlement.  The  space  between  the  Yellowstone  and  Missouri  is 
also  said  to  be  well  wooded.  Fir,  pine,  spruce,  and  cedar  are  found  in 
the  region  of  the  Black  hills  and  Rocky  mountains,  and  may,  at  a  future 


TERRITORY  OF  NEBRASKA.  521 

day,  furnish  lumber  to  the  eastern  portion  of  the  Territory,  by  floating 
it  down  the  great  rivers  Yellowstone,  Missouri,  and  Nebraska. 

Animals. — This  country  is  the  paradise  of  the  hunter  and  trapper. 
Vast  herds  of  buffalo  roam  over  its  prairies,  though  now  rapidly  diminish- 
ing in  numbers.  Lewis  and  Clark  have  stated  that  at  times  the  Missouri 
•was  backed  up  as  by  a  dam,  by  the  multitude  of  these  animals  crossing. 
The  frizzly  bear,  Eocky  mountain  goat,  sheep,  and  antelope,  infest  the 
slopes  of  the  Eocky  mountains  ;  and  the  beaver  in  former  times  existed 
in  great  numbers,  though  the  trappers  are  now  fast  thinning  them  out. 
Otters  also  are  found.  Panthers  were  met  with  by  Lewis  and  Clark  and 
others ;  also  black  bear?,  deer,  elks,  and  wolves. 

Commerce. — The  fur  and  peltry  trade  constitutes  the  commerce  of 
this  vast  region.  Steamboats  ascend  the  Missouri  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Yellowstone,  and  up  the  latter  river  300  miles. 

Forts  and  Stations. — The  principal  forts  are  Fort  Kearney,  on  the 
Nebraska  river,  in  about  40°  35' north  latitude,  and  98° 50' west  longitude  ; 
Fort  Laramie,  on  a  tributary  of  the  Nebraska,  (bearing  its  own  name,)  in 
about  42°  10'  north  latitude,  and  104°  30'  west  longitude;  Fort  St.  Vrain, 
on  the  South  fork  of  the  Nebraska,  in  about  40°  20'  north  latitude, 
and  104°  50'  west  longitude  ;  Fort  Benton,  at  or  near  the  junction  of  the 
Maria's  river  with  the  Missouri,  in  about  47°  30'  north  latitude,  and 
109°  30  west  longitude  ;  Fort  Union,  at  the  junction  of  the  Yellowstone 
and  Missouri,  in.  about  48°  north  latitude,  and  104°  west  longitude  ;  ForJ» 
Mandan  and  Clark,  on  opposite  sides  of  the  Missouri,  in  about  47°  30' 
north  latitude,  and  101°  west  longitude  ;  Fort  Pierre,  on  the  Missouri, 
in  about  44°  30'  north  latitude,  and  100°  30'  west  longitude;  and  Forts 
Manuel,  Berthold,  and  Alexander,  all  on  the  Yellowstone.  Lewis  and 
Clark  passed  the  winter  of  1805  at  Fort  Mandan,  since  which  time  it 
has  not  been  occupied.  Among  the  prominent  stations  are  Bellevue,  on 
the  Missouri,  9  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Nebraska,  here  is  an  Indian 
agency  and  school  among  the  Ottoes  and  Omahas ;  Nebraska  Depot,  a 
ferry  3  miles  below  the  river  of  that  name  ;  Nebraska  Center  post-office, 
a  little  below  Fort  Kearney,  and  Table  Creek  post-office,  at  old  Fort 
Kearney,  30  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Nebraska  river ;  Omaha  City, 
the  capital,  and  Council  Bluffs,  on  the  Missouri,  the  site  of  Old  Fort 
Calhoun,  25  miles  above  Kanesville,  Iowa. 

Population. — The  population  is  almost  wholly  composed  of  the  abo- 
rigenes,  though  emigration  has  already  begun  to  flow  in  rapidly  since  the 
organization  of  the  Territory,  in  May,  1854.  The  principal  tribes  of 
Indians  are  the  Mandans,  Minetarees,  Crows,  Ottoes,  Omahas,  Puncahs, 
Pawnees,  Eicarees  or  Arricarees,  Gross  Ventres,  Fall  or  Eapid  Indians, 
Black  Feet,  Missourees,  and  a  colony  of  Half  Breeds— the  last  between 
the  Great  and  Little  Nemaha  rivers,  in  the  south-east  corner  of  the  Territory. 
Of  these  the  Black  Feet,  a  numerous  and  warlike  tribe,  roam  over  the 
whole  eastern  slope  of  the  Eocky  mountains,  north  of  the  Nebraska  river, 
and  even  into  British  America.  The  Dacotah  or  Sioux  tribes  roam  over 
the  northern  and  western  part  of  Nebraska,  and  are  divided  into  the 
Pruelle,  Y"aneton,  Two-Kettle,  Black-Feet-Sioux,  Ouk-pa-pas,  Sans- Arcs, 
and  Minnie.     The  Crow  Indians  or  Ups-arokas,  are  on  the  waters  of  the 


V 


522 


TERRITORY  OF  MINNESOTA. 


Yellowstone.  The  Puncahs,  Omahas,  and  ©ttoes — all  speaking  a  dialect 
of  the  Dacotahs  or  Sioux — are  in  the  south-east  part  of  the  territory,  near 
the  Missouri  river.  The  Missourees  have  joined  with  the  Ottoes.  West 
of  the  latter  tribes,  and  north  of  the  Nebraska  and  west  of  the  Missouri, 
are  the  Pawnees,  a  numerous  tribe.  The  total  population  of  the  Missouri 
valley,  in  1853,  was  estimated,  by  the  Indian  Department,  at  43,430. 
Settlements  are  now  making  in  Nebraska  at  Old  Fort  Kearney,  and  some 
other  points  south  of  the  Platte,  and  at  Believue,  Omaha  City,  and  fort 
Calhoun  on  the  north;  also,  at  the  crossings  of  Elk  horn,  Loup  fork, 
and  Wood  rivers,  on  the  California  road,  north  of  the  Platte.  Omaha 
City  is  the  capital. 

History. — The  valley  of  the  Missouri  was  first  visited  by  Father 
Marquette,  in  the  last  half  of  the  17th  century.  La  Salle  followed  him 
in  1681-82.  Nebraska  formed  a  part  of  the  great  grant  of  the  Mississipi 
valley  to  Crozart,  in  1712;  and  was  the  object  of  Law's  celebrated  Mis- 
sissipi Scheme.  This  territory  came  into  possession  of  the  United  States 
in  1803,  as  a  part  of  the  Louisiana  purchase,  and  successively  formed 
parts  of  that  and  the  Missouri  and  Indian  Territories.  In  1804-05  an 
expedition,  commanded  by  Lewis  and  Clark,  under  the  direction  of  the 
United  States  government,  ascended  the  Missouri  river,  wintered  at  Fort 
Mandan,  and  the  next  spring  crossed  the  Eocky  mountains  to  the  present 
Territory  of  Oregon,  and  are  believed  to  have  been  the  first  explorers  of 
the  interior  and  western  parts  of  Nebraska.  In  May,  1854,  the  Congress 
of  the  United  States  erected  this  region  into  a  separate  territory,  reserv- 
ing however  the  right  to  subdivide  it. 


TERRITORY  OF  MINNESOTA. 


This  Territory  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  British  America,  east  by  Lake 
Superior  and  the  State  of  Wisconsin ;  south  by  Iowa  and  Missouri  Ter- 
ritory, and  the  west  by  Nebraska  Territory.  The  Lake  of  the  Woods, 
with  a  chain  of  small  lakes  and  their  outlets,  forms  a  part  of  the  northern 
boundary,  the  St.  Croix  and  Mississippi  a  part  of  the  eastern,  and  the 
Missouri  and  White  Earth  rivers  the  western  boundary.  It  lies  between 
42°  30'  and  40°  north  latitude,  and  between  about  89°  30'  and  103° 
west  longitude,  being  about  650  miles  in  extreme  length  from  east  to 
west,  and  430  from  north  to  south,  including  an  area  of  nearly  166,025 
square  miles,  or  106,256,000  acres. 

Face  of  the  Country. — Though  there  are  no  mountains  in  Min- 


TERRITORY  OF  MINNESOTA.  523 

nesota  it  is  the  most  elevated  tract  of  land  between  the  Gulf  Meixco  and 
Hudson's  bay:  and  from  its  central   bights  sends  its  waters  to  every 
point  of  the  compass,  but  mostly  to  the  north  and  south      ^position 
from  wbich  the  Red  river  of  the  north  and   the  St.  Peter  s  take   their 
opposite  courses  is  almost  exactly  in  the  center  of  the   lerritory   and 
elevated  about  2.000  feet  above  the  Gulf  Mexico.     A  plateau,  called  the 
'•Coteau  des  Prairie,"  or  "Prairie  Hights,"  about  200  miles  in  length, 
and  from  15  to  40  in  breadth,  runs  through   the  middle  of  th e  scrattt- 
ern    part   of   Minnesota.      Its   greatest   elevation   is   about    1,91b    feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  its  average  bight  about  14o0  feet,     lhe 
northern  portion  whieh  is  the  highest,  is  about  890  feet  above  Bigstone 
lake,  which  lies  in  its  vicinity.     Passing  the  St.  Peter  s  or  Minnesota  river 
,e  come  upon  another  range  of  bights,  known  as  the  Cotean  du  Grand 
Boi*   or  the  Wooded  Rights,  which  extend  for  more  than  100  miles  nearly 
parallel  with  the  Coteau  des  Prairies.     This  ridge  is  mostly  covered  with 
an  extensive  forest  of  hard  wood.     Through  the  middle  of  the  triangle 
which  occupies  the  north-east  portion  of  the  Territory  runs  a  third  range 
of  hights,  called  the  «  Hauteurs  de  Terre,"  or  "  Highlands,     which  ex- 
tend west  by  south  about  300  miles,  and  forms  a  dividing  ridge,  whence 
flow  the  waters  that  seek  Lake  Superior  and  the  Mississippi  in  one  direc- 
tion, and  Hudson's  bay  in  the  other.     A  range  of  less  altitude  than  the 
"  Coteau  des  Prairies,  but  continuing  in  the  same  direction,  forms  the 
watershed  of  the  streams  flowing  into  the  Missouri  on  the  west,  and  those 
flowing  into  the  Red  river  on  the  east.     The  rest  of  the  country  generally 
alternates  between  sandhills  and  swamps. 

Geology.— Minnesota,  east  of  the  Red  river  of  the  north,  is  mostly 
covered  with  drift,  lying  on  crystalline  and  metamorphic  rocks,  wnich 
occasionally  protrude  to  the  surface  in  the  valleys  of  the  rivers  and  on 
the  shores  of  lakes.  In  the  south-east,  the  lower  magnesian  limestone 
crops  out  in  the  valleys  of  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Peter  s  rivers;  and  on  the 
latter  river  the  sandstone  occasionally  obtrudes  in  a  few  places,  with  oc- 
casional intrusions  of  igneous  rocks.  On  the  shores  of  Lake  feupenor 
are  "  alternations  of  metamorphic  schists,  slates,  and  sandstones,  with 
volcanic  grits  and  other  bedded  traps  and  porphyries,  intersected  by 
numerous  basaltic  and  greenstone  dikes,  with  occasional  deposits  of  red 
clay  marls,  and  drift."  In  the  north-east  angle  of  Minnesota  is  a  tract  of 
hornbleudic  and  argillaceous  slates,  with  bedded  porphyries  and  intru- 
sions of  green  stone  and  granite.  On  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  Rainy 
lake,  and  their  outlets,  are  metamorphic  schists,  with  gneiss  and  gueis- 

soid  rocks. 

Minerals.— The  indications  from  geological  surveys  of  Minnesota 
do  not  favor  the  hopes  of  great  metallic  weaita  within  its  borders.  Cop- 
per has  been  found,  but  in  most  instances  it  is  not  "in  place,"  but  ap- 
pears to  have  been  carried  thither  by  the  drift  and  boulders,  lhe  pro- 
bability is  that,  of  richer  metallic  ores  than  iron,  this  Territory  will  not 
afford  (except  near  Lake  Superior)  sufficient  quantity  to  repay  the  labors 
of  the  miner;  for,  if  they  exist  at  all,  they  probably  he  at  great  depths. 
The  indications  are  equally  unfavorable  to  there  being  any  large  deposits 
of  coal.     A   lead  vein,  4  inches   in  thickness,  was   discovered  on    the 


*» 


524  TERRITORY  OF  MINNESOTA. 

Waraju  river  by  the  geological  crops  of  Professor  Owen.  The  most  re- 
markable mineral  in  this  Territory  is  the  red  pipestone,  of  which  the 
Indians  make  their  pipes,  and  which  is  believed  to  be  peculiar  to  the 
region  of  the  Coteau  des  Prairies.  A  slab  of  this  stone  has  been,  or  is 
to  be,  sent  to  Washington,  to  be  inserted  in  the  great  national  monument 
erecting  to  the  memory  of  the  father  of  his  country.  Salt  exists  in  vast 
quantities  between  47°  and  49°  north  latitude,  and  97°  and  99°  west 
longitude. 

Lakes  and  Rivers. — Minnesota  is  perhaps  even  more  deserving  than 
Michigan  of  the  appellation  of  the  "Lake  State,"  as  it  abounds  in 
lacustrine  waters  of  every  size,  from  lakes  of  40  miles  in  extent,  to 
small  ponds  of  less  than  a  mile  in  circuit.  These  beautiful  sheets  of 
water  give  origin  to  rivers  flowing  north,  south,  and  east,  some  finding  their 
way  to  the  Atlantic  through  the  mighty  Mississippi  and  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 
ico; others  through  the  great  lakes,  Niagara,  and  the  St.  Lawrence;  and 
others,  again,  pass  off  to  the  north,  and  seek  the  ocean  through  Hud- 
son's bay  and  straits.  The  largest  of  these  lakes,  with  the  exception  of  Lake 
Superior,  and  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  Rainy  lake,  Red,  Minni-Wakan 
or  Devil  lake,  Leech,  and  Mille  Lac  or  Spirit  lake.  These  generally 
have  clear,  pebbly  bottoms,  and  are  well  stocked  with  fish,  among  which 
are  white  fish,  pike,  pickerel,  maskelonge,  sucker,  perch,  and  trout. 
Wild  rice  grows  on  the  borders  of  many  of  them,  especially  at  the 
north.  Devil  lake,  which  is  on  the  48th  parallel  of  north  latitude,  in 
the  north-west  of  Minnesota,  is  about  40  miles  in  length  by  15  in  breadth, 
and  its  waters,  which  are  brackish,  have  no  visible  outlet.  Red  lake, 
on  the  same  parallel,  east  of  Red  river,  with  which  it  communicates,  is 
divided  into  two  portions,  united  by  a  strait  of  2  miles  in  width,  and 
covers  about  the  same  area  as  Devil  lake.  Lake  of  the  Woods,  and 
Rainy  lake,  (the  former  a  larger  sheet  of  water,  perhaps  100  miles  in 
circuit,)  are  both  on  the  north-east  boundary  of  the  Territory.  Lake  Pepin, 
a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  is  a  mere  expansion  of  the  Mississippi  in  the 
south-east  of  this  Territory.  The  rivers  and  large  streams  of  Minnesota  are 
almost  as  numerous  as  its  lakes.  The  far-famed  Mississippi  takes  its 
humble  origin  from  Itasca  lake,  from  whose  pellucid  waters  it  issues  a 
rivulet  of  but  a  few  feet  in  width,  and  first  meandering  in  a  north  east  di- 
rection through  a  number  of  small  lakes,  to  receive  their  tribute,  it  turns 
to  the  south,  and  pursues  its  lordly  way  to  its  far  distant  exit  in  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  laving  in  its  course  the  shores  of  9  States  and  1  Territory. 
About  800  miles  of  its  length  are  included  within  Minnesota,  of  which 
600  are  navigable  for  steamboats;  200  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
and  400  above;  with  two  interruptions,  however,  at  Sauk  rapids  and 
Little  falls.  The  Rum  and  St.  Croix,  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi, 
drain  the  south-east  portion  of  the  Territory,  and  the  Red  river  the  north- 
ern, passing  off  into  Hudson's  bay.  It  is  the  outlet  of  Traverse,  Ottertail, 
Red,  and  several  smaller  lakes.  It  has  a  course  of  about  500  miles 
within  Minnesota,  though  it  does  not  flow  directly  north  more  than  200 
miles  in  that  distance.  The  Lake  Superior  slope  is  principally  drained 
by  the  St.  Louis  and  its  branches,  and  by  the  outlets  of  that  series  of 
small  lakes  that  form  the  north-east  boundary  of  Minnesota.     The  great 


TERRITORY  OF  MINNESOTA.  525 

valley  formed  by  the  slopes  of  Coteau  des  Prairies  and  the  Coteau  du 
Bois,  is  drained  by  the  St.  Peter's  or  Minnesota  and  its  tributaries. 
This  river  runs  first  in  a  south-east,  and  then  in  a  north-east  course,  with  a 
total  length  of  from  400  to  500  miles,  and  is  navigable  for  steamers.  Its 
principal  branch  is  the  Blue  Earth  or  Mankato  river.  The  St.  Peter's, 
with  the  Crow  Wing  and  Crow  rivers,  are  the  principal  tributaries  of 
the  Mississippi  from  the  west.  The  Riviere  a-  Jacques  (reevve-air'  ah 
zhak)  and  the  Sioux  are  the  principal  affluents  of  the  Missouri  from  this 
Territory.  They  both  have  an  almost  south  course,  the  former  being  about 
600,  and  the  latter  350  miles  long.  Nearly  the  whole  western  boundary 
is  washed  by  the  Missouri,  which  opens  the  western  part  of  the  Territory 
to  the  commerce  of  the  great  Mississippi  valley.  The  rivers  of  Min- 
nesota abound  in  small  falls  and  rapids,  which,  while  they  interrupt 
navigation,  furnish  extensive  water-power.  The  St.  Croix  is  navigable 
to  Stillwater  for  large  boats,  and  for  small  ones  to  the  falls  ;  the  Minnesota 
to  Traverse  des  Sioux,  and  at  high  water  100  miles  further;  the  St. 
Louis  '20  miles  for  large  vessels,  and  the  Red  river  in  nearly  all  parts 
for  either  Durham  boats  or  steamboats.  The  Blue  Earth,  Rum,  Elk, 
and  others  are  navigable  from  50  to  100  miles  for  steamboats  of  light 
draught  and  flat  boats. 

Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists. — If  we  except  cataracts  of  the 
first  magnitude  and  high  mountains,  Minnesota  presents  as  great  a 
variety  of  natural  objects  of  interest  as  any  portion  of  our  widely-ex- 
tended domain.  The  traveler  enters  her  Territory,  ascending  the  Mis- 
sissippi, amid  beautiful  islands,  (one  of  which,  Mountain  island,  is  428 
feet  high,)  and  between  cliffs  of  sandstone  and  magnesian  limestone 
rising  to  an  elevation  of  from  300  to  500  feet.  Soon  he  passes  into  that 
beautiful  expansion  of  the  river  named  Lake  Pepin,  on  the  east  bank  of 
which  he  has  Maiden's  rock,  400  feet  high ;  and  near  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  the  lake,  La  Grange  mountain,  a  headland  about  330  feet 
above  the  lake,  180  of  which,  at  the  base,  is  sandstone,  capped  with 
magnesian  limestone.  As  he  proceeds,  continuing  his  ascending  voyage, 
the  traveler  arrives  at  the  famed  St.  Anthony's  falls,  less  celebrated  on 
account  of  their  perpendicular  pitch  (only  16 £  feet)  than  for  their  ac- 
complishments of  wild  scenery  and  their  geological  interest.  The  falls 
are  divided  by  an  island,  as  at  Niagara,  the  greater  portion  of  the  water 
passing  on  the  western  side,  which  is  310  yards  wide.  The  entire 
descent,  including  the  rapids,  is  58  feet  in  S*Q  rods.  St.  Anthony's 
falls  will  no  doubt  one  day  become  a  Western  Lowell,  indeed  its  capa- 
bilities as  a  manufacturing  site  far  transcend  those  of  the  town  named, 
when  the  wants  of  the  country  shall  call  them  into  requisition.  Foun- 
tain cave,  2  or  3  miles  above  St.  Paul,  is  an  excavation  in  the  white 
sandstone,  which  opens  by  an  arched  entrance  25  feet  wide  and  20  high, 
into  a  chamber  150  feet  long  and  20  wide,  along  the  center  of  which 
glides  a  rivulet,  which  may  be  heard  from  its  inner  and  hidden  recesses 
dashing  down  in  small  cascades.  The  passage  becomes  very  narrow  as 
you  proceed  up  the  channel,  occasionally  opening  into  small  chambers. 
Mr.  Seymour  advanced  nearly  1,000  feet  within  the  cave  without  reach- 
ing its  termination.     Brown's  falls  are  in  a  narrow  stream,  the  outlet 


526  TERRITORY  OF  MINNESOTA. 

of  several  small  lakes  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi.  They  have  a 
perpendicular  descent  of  50  feet;  and  including  smaller  falls  and  rapids, 
100  feet.  Pilot  knob,  near  the  confluence  of  the  Mississippi  and  St. 
Peter's,  is  an  elevation  of  262  feet,  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the 
surrounding  country  and  the  two  rivers  near  whose  junction  it  stands. 
The  St.  Croix  falls  or  rapids,  about  30  miles  from  its  mouth,  have  a 
descent  of  nearly  50  feet  in  300  yards;  but  the  most  interesting  portion 
of  the  scene  consists  in  the  perpendicular  walls  of  trap-rock  through 
which  the  river  has  forced  its  way,  about  half  a  mile  below  the  rapids, 
and  through  which  it  rushes  with  great  velocity,  forming  eddies  and 
whirlpools.  At  this  place,  40  or  50  feet  above  the  river,  port-holes,  20 
to  25  feet  in  diameter,  and  15  to  20  deep,  have  been  worn  by  the  action 
of  the  water.  This  pass  is  called  the  Dalles  of  the  St.  Croix.  The 
Sioux  river  "breaks  through  a  remarkable  formation  of  massive  quartz, 
which  crosses  it  perpendicularly,"  at  the  Great  bend,  in  about  43°  30' 
north  latitude,  and  forms  a  series  of  falls  and  rapids,  one  of  which  is 
21  feet,  another  18,  and  a  third  10  feet  in  perpendicular  pitch.  The 
entire  descent  in  400  yards  is  100  feet.  Minnesota  shares  with  Wis- 
consin in  the  falls  and  rapids  of  the  St.  Louis  river,  another  picturesque 
and  romantic  display  of  nature's  works — for  a  description  of  which,  see 
Wisconsin.  The  rivers  of  Minnesota  are  filled  with  picturesque  rapids 
and  small  falls,  and  often  bordered  with  perpendicular  biuffs  of  lime  and 
sandstone,  or  gently  sloping  hills  that  gracefully  recede  from  the  water. 
This  region  is  the  paradise  of  a  hunter :  its  prairies  and  forests  are  the 
home  of  many  wild  animals,  and  in  its  rivers  and  lakes  swim  great 
varieties  of  fish. 

Climate. — The  climate  of  this  Territory  is  severe,  especially  in  the 
northern  part.  At  the  Pembina  settlement,  under  the  49th  parallel  of 
latitude,  the  cold  is  frequently  so  great  as  to  freeze  quicksilver.  Accord- 
ing to  observations  kept  by  the  officers  stationed  there  in  January,  1847, 
the  mean  temperature  of  the  month,  from  three  observations  a  day,  at 
9  A.  M.,  and  3  and  9  p.  m.,  was  12^-°  below  zero  ;  and  the  greatest  cold 
48°  below  the  same  point.  The  average  of  66  days'  observations  was 
22|  °  below  zero ;  and  the  highest  point  reached  in  the  month  of  January, 
30°  above  zero.  The  hottest  day  in  the  month  of  July  was  96°,  showing 
a  range  of  144°  between  the  greatest  cold  and  greatest  heat.  From  the 
17th  of  June  to  the  17th  rf  July,  1848,  the  mean  temperature  was  69°. 
Even  as  late  as  in  the  Liter  weeks  of  March,  and  as  early  as  in  November, 
the  thermometer  often  falls  below  zero.  Observations  made  at  St.  Paul's, 
in  latitude  44°  56'  north,  in  December,  January,  and  February,  of  the 
winter  of  1850-51,  gave  the  following  result:  Clear  days,  22  ;  variable, 
45;  cloudy,  23  ;  rain,  5;  snow,  24;  and  hail,  1.  Greatest  hight  of  the 
mercury,  47°  ;  lowest  point,  32°  5'  below  zero  ;  average  of  the  winter, 
15°  23'.  31  days  the  mercury  was  at  or  above  freezing,  and  37  days 
below  zero.  The  coldest  day,  (January  30,)  it  was  20°  below  ;  and  the 
mildest,  (February  25,)  36°  6'  above  zero.  Winds,  north-north-west, 
50  days  ;  south-east  to  east- north-east,  20  days  ;  variable,  20  days.  The 
amount  of  rainy  days  this  winter  is  stated  as  unusually  large,  from  which 
the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere  may  be  inferred.     The  earliest  closing  of 


TERRITORY  OF  MINNESOTA.  527 

the  navigation  by  ice,  between  1844  and  1850,  was  November  8 ;  the 
latest  December  8.  The  earliest  opening  in  the  same  period,  was 
March  31 :  the  latest,  April,  19.  The  climate  of  Minnesota,  in  some 
parts,  is  too  severe  for  Indian  corn,  but  the  dryness  and  steadiness  of  the 
cold  favor  wheat  and  other  winter  grains. 

Soil  and  Productions. — The  soil  of  Minnesota  varies  greatly.  In 
the  valleys  of  the  rivers  it  is  mostly  excellent,  especially  in  those  of  the 
St.  Peter's,  and  of  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries  in  the  south-east  part 
of  the  Territory.  Above  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  with  the  exception  of 
the  river  alluvions  and  some  prairie  land,  the  country  is  generally  covered 
with  drift,  interspersed  with  marshes,  too  wet  for  cultivation ;  but  the 
elevated  portion  is  often  much  of  it  of  tolerable  fertility,  though  inferior 
to  the  calcareous  lands  of  the  river-bottoms,  and  not  unfrequently  covered 
with  dwarf  timber.  Professor  Owen  remarks  that  "the  general  agricul- 
tural character  of  the  lied  river  country  is  excellent.  The  principal 
drawbacks  are  occasional  protracted  droughts  during  the  midsummer 
months,  and  during  the  spring  freshets,  which  from  time  to  time  overflow 
large  tracts  of  low  prairie,  especially  near  the  Great  bend."  According 
to  Governor  Ramsay,  wherever  the  test  has  been  made,  Minnesota  pro- 
duces corn,  wheat,  oats,  and  potatoes  equal  in  quality  to  that  produced  in 
any  State  in  the  Union,  and  in  quantity  such  as  to  astonish  those  who 
have  been  familiar  even  with  the  rich  bottom-lands  of  Indiana  and  Illinois. 
The  nutritious  wild  rice,  strawberries,  currants,  plums,  cranberries,  grapes, 
and  crab-apples  are  indigenous.  According  to  the  census  of  1850,  there 
were  5,035  acres  of  land  only  under  cultivation,  but  as  the  population  is 
now  (1853)  probably  more  than  treble  what  it  was  at  that  period,  this  will 
be  a  very  unfair  representation  of  the  present  agricultural  condition  of 
the  Territory.  In  the  year  of  the  national  census,  there  were  produced 
1,401  bushels  of  wheat;  125  of  rye  ;  16,725  of  Indian  corn  ;  30,582  of 
oats  ;  10,002  of  peas  and  beans  ;  21,145  of  Irish  potatoes ;  200  of  sweet 
potatoes;  1,216  of  barley;  515  of  buckwheat;  2,019  tons  of  hay;  85 
pounds  of  wool ;  5,100  of  butter  ;  2,950  of  maple-sugar  ;  80  of  beeswax 
and  honey.  Value  of  live  stock,  $92,859;  of  market  produce,  $150 ;  and 
of  slaughtered  animals,  $2,840. 

Forest  Trees. — Parts  of  Minnesota  are  densely  timbered  with  pine 
forests,  and  the  ridges  of  the  drift  districts  with  small  pine,  birch,  aspen, 
maple,  ash,  elm,  hemlock,  firs,  poplar,  and  basswood.  In  the  swamps 
between  the  ridges,  the  tamarack,  cedar,  and  cypress  are  found ;  while 
the  river  bottoms  furnish  a  good  growth  of  oak,  aspen,  soft  maple,  bass- 
wood,  ash,  birch,  white  walnut,  linden,  and  elm.  Much  of  this  timber 
on  the  poorer  ridges,  and  in  some  of  the  marshes,  is  of  rather  a  dwarf 
character.  On  the  Rum,  St.  Croix,  and  Pine  rivets,  there  are  extensive 
forests  of  pine.  According  to  Professor  Owen,  "a  belt  of  forest  crosses 
Minnesota  in  latitude  44°  30',  which  is  remarkable  for  its  unusual  body 
of  timber,  in  a  country  otherwise  but  scantily  timbered."  Bond  says, 
"  there  are  80  miles  of  solid  pine  timber  on  the  shores  of  the  Mississippi, 
below  Pokegamin  falls."  Taken  as  a  whole,  Minnesota  can  scarcely  be 
called  a  well-wooded  country.     But  here,  as  in  other  parts  of  the  west, 


528  TERRITORY  OF  MINNESOTA. 

when  the  prairies  are  protected  from  fire,  a  growth  of  young  timber  aoon 
springs  up. 

Animals. — Minnesota  has  always  been  a  favorite  hunting  ground  of 
the  Indians,  and  vast  herds  of  buffalo,  elk,  deer,  antelope,  and  other  game, 
still  roam  over  the  plains  west  of  the  Coteau  des  Prairies  and  the  Red 
river.  Deer,  black  bear,  antelope,  wolverine,  otter,  muskrat,  mink,  mar- 
tin, wolf,  and  racoon  abound,  and  the  mooze  and  grizzly  bear  are  occa- 
sionally met  with.  The  prairies  are  frequented  by  grouse,  pheasants, 
and  partridges,  and  the  streams  by  wild  ducks  and  geese.  The  other 
birds  are  hawks,  buzzards,  harriers,  owls,  quails,  plovers,  larks,  and  a 
great  variety  of  small  birds.  Among  the  water  fowl  are  the  pelican, 
tern,  hooded  sheldrake,  bustard,  broadbill,  ruffle-headed  duck,  wood  duck, 
teal,  wild  goose,  and  loon.  Both  the  golden  and  bald  eagles  are  occa- 
sionally met  with.  The  rivers  and  lakes  abound  in  fine  fish,  among  which 
are  the  bass,  cap,  sunfish,  pickerel,  pike,  catfish,  whitefish,  sucker,  maske- 
longe,  and  trout. 

Manufactures. — There  are  great  capabilities  in  the  innumerable 
rivers  of  Minnesota,  with  their  falls  and  rapids,  for  manufacturing  establish- 
ments. At  present  the  conversion  of  her  pine  forests  into  boards,  scantl- 
ing, etc.,  constitutes  the  principal  manufacture  of  this  new  and  flourishing 
Territory. 

Internal  Improvements. — These,  of  course,  are  as  yet  confined  to 
opening  common  and  military  roads.  In  the  settlement  of  a  new  country,, 
the  emigrants  naturally  first  locate  on  the  great  rivers,  and  a  considerable 
time  elapses  before  they  need  any  other  highway  than  these  rivers  the  ^i- 
selves  and  short  roads  leading  to  them.  The  best  lands  of  Minnesota  are 
on  her  two  great  navigable  rivers,  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Peter's  ;  and  the 
first  acts  of  internal  improvement  needed  by  this  Territory  will  be  the 
removal  of  some  obstructions  in  these  streams.  It  is  among  the  proba- 
bilities that  the  great  Pacific  Eailway  may  traverse  this  region,  as  engineers 
are  now  examiniug  the  feasibilities  of  a  northern  route. 

Commerce. — Minnesota  has  the  advantage  of  two  outlets  for  her  pro- 
ducts ;  one  by  way  of  the  Mississippi,  to  every  portion  of  the  Mississippi 
valley  ;  and  the  other  by  way  of  Lake  Superior,  with  the  Lake  States  and 
with  the  east.  The  great  export  of  this  Territory  is  her  lumber,  and  in 
the  winter  of  1850-'51,  21,000,000  feet  were  cut  on  the  St.  Croix  and  its 
tributaries.  The  same  region  would  send,  it  was  calculated,  60,000,000 
feet  to  market  in  1853;  and  this  portion  of  the  trade  of  Minnesota  must 
increase  in  a  rapid  ratio  with  the  settlement  of  its  own  waste  lands,  and  of 
the  lower  country.  In  1841,  according  to  Mr.  Prescott's  register  at  Fort 
Smiling,  40  steamboats  arrived  fruni  below,  48  in  1845,  24  in  1846,  47 
in  1847,  63  in  1848,  85  in  1849,  and  102  in  1850.  The  Mississipi  rivei 
was  open  for  navigation,  or  the  first  boat  arrived,  in  the  years  184l,-'45, 
-'46,  -'48,  -'49,  and  1850,  respectively,  on  the  20th  of  March,  6th  of 
April,  31st  of  March,  7th  of  April,  9th  of  April,  and  19th  of  April ;  and 
the  river  closed,  in  the  same  years,  on  the  23d  and  26th  of  November, 
and  on  the  4th,  7th,  and  1st  of  December.  The  foreign  exports  for 
1851-52 amounted  to  $1,207. 

Education. — Minnesota  has  a  public  system  of  free  schools,  which  is 


TERRITORY  OF  MINNESOTA.  529 

under  the  general  direction  of  a  superintendent  of  common  schools  and 
the  local  supervision  of  trustees.  Every  township  containing  not  less 
than  five  families  is  considered  a  school  district.  These  school  trustees 
are  elected  every  year,  and  a  majority  of  the  voters  may  levy  a  tax  not 
to  exceed  §600  a  year.  A  county  tax  is  also  levied  for  school  purposes, 
of  one-fourth  of  one  per  cent.,  on  the  ad  valorem  amount  of  the  assessment 
roll,  made  by  the  county  assessors  :  also  15  per  cent,  of  all  moneys  raised 
by  licenses  of  spirituous  liquors,  and  on  all  fines  for  criminal  acts.  "An 
act  to  incorporate  the  University  of  Minnesota,"  was  passed  February  25, 
1851.  This  institution  is  to  consist  of  five  departments,  namely,  of 
science,  literature,  and  art;  of  laws;  of  medicine;  of  agriculture,  and 
of  elementary  instruction.  Twelve  regents  appointed  by  the  Legislature 
manage  its  affairs.  It  is  located  at  St.  Anthony.  The  proceeds  of  all 
lands  granted  by  the  United  States  go  to  form  a  perpetual  fund  for  the 
support  of  the  University.  Congress  has  granted  two  townships  of  land 
for  this  purpose  already. 

Public  Institutions. — A  Penitentiary,  located  at  Stillwater,  is  the 
only  other  institution,  besides  the  University,  of  a  strictly  Territorial  cha- 
racter. A  Historical  Society  was  established  at  St.  Paul  in  1849,  which 
annually  publishes  its  transactions. 

Population. — The  commencement  of  the  settlement  of  this  Territory 
is  quite  recent;  and,  at  the  United  States  census  of  1850,  there  were  only 
6,077  inhabitants;  of  whom  3,695  were  white  males,  2,343  white  females, 
21  free  colored  males,  and  18  free  colored  females.  Governor  Eamsay 
estimated  the  Indian  population  in  1852,  at  25,000.  The  number  of  fa- 
milies in  1850  was  1,016,  occupying  1,002  dwellings.  Of  the  population, 
except  Indians,  1,586  were  born  in  the  Territory,  2,511  in  the  different 
States  of  the  Union,  84  in  England,  271  in  Ireland,  41  in  Scotland  and 
Wales,  1,417  in  British  America,  141  in  Germany,  29  in  France,  65  in 
other  countries,  and  22  whose  places  of  birth  were  unknown ;  giving  about 
33  per  cent,  of  foreign  birth.  In  the  year  ending  June  1,  1850,  there 
occurred  30  deaths,  or  about  5  in  every  one  thousand  persons.  In  the 
census  returns,  no  deaf,  dumb,  or  blind,  and  but  1  idiot  and  1  insane  was 
reported.  Population  to  the  square  mile  only  .04.  Of  the  entire  popu- 
lation, 340  were  engaged  in  agriculture,  599  were  laborers,  126  lumber- 
men, 207  hunters,  396  mechanics  and  manufacturers,  208  merchants  and 
traders,  9  engaged  in  internal  commerce,  and  77  in  the  learned  profess- 
ions. So  rapid  and  constant  has  been  the  influx  of  emigration  into  this 
Territory  since  the  taking  of  the  national  census,  that  the  population  in 
1854  was  estimated  at  35,000  civilized  inhabitants. 

Counties. — Minnesota  is  divided  into  20  counties,  viz. :  Benton,  Blue 
Earth,  Cass,  Chicago,  Dakotah,  Fillmore,  Goodhue,  Hennepin,  Itasca, 
Kapasia,  Le  Sueur,  Nicollet,  Pierce,  Pembina,  Eamsay,  Rice,  Scott,  Sibley, 
Wabashaw,  and  Washington.  Mankatah  and  Wahnahta  have  been  oblite- 
rated since  1850.  Capital,  St.  Paul.  The  principal  towns  are  St.  Paul, 
population  in  1854  estimated  at  5,000;  and  St.  Anthony's,  2,000.  Still- 
water, St.  Croix,  and  Wabasha  are  the  other  important  places. 

Government. — The  Governor  is  appointed  by  the  President  of  the 
United  States  for  four  years  ;  salary,  §2,500.     The  Legislature  consists 
34 


530  TERRITORY  OF  MINNESOTA. 

of  a  Council,  composed  of  9  members,  and  a  House  of  Eepresentatives. 
of  18  members,  both  elected  by  the  people,  the  former  for  2  years,  and 
the  latter  annually.  The  number  of  councilmen  maybe  increased  to  15, 
and  of  the  representatives  to  39.  The  judiciary  consists  of  a  supreme, 
district,  and  probate  courts.  The  Territory  sends  a  delegate  to  the  na- 
tional House  of  Representatives,  who  may  speak,  but  not  vote. 

History. — Minnesota  is  said  to  have  been  first  visited  by  white  men 
in  the  person  of  two  free  traders  in  the  year  1654;  who,  on  their  return 
to  Montreal,  two  years  afterward,  gave  such  glowing  descriptions  of  the 
country  as  to  induce,  not  only  traders  and  trappers,  but  Jesuit  missionaries 
to  visit  the  country.  To  the  latter  are  we  indebted  for  the  first  printed 
records  of  Minnesota.  The  present  Territory  of  Minnesota  formed  part 
of  the  original  Louisiana  Territory,  as  purchased  from  France  in  1803. 
The  eastern  portion  formed  a  part  of  the  French  possessions,  which  were 
surrendered  to  the  English  at  the  peace  of  1763,  and  subsequently  by 
the  latter  to  the  government  of  the  United  States,  after  the  close  of  the 
Revolution.  During  the  administration  of  Mr.  Jefferson,  (in  1805,)  an 
exploring  expedition,  under  General  Pike,  traversed  the  country.  The 
first  fortification  of  the  United  States  within  the  present  limits  of  Min- 
nesota was  located  at  Fort  Snelling,  which  has  been  occupied  by  an  Ame- 
rican garrison  ever  since  1819.  With  the  exception  of  the  British  set- 
tlement at  Pembina,  which  was  not  then  known  to  be  within  the  limits  of 
the  United  Staets,  no  settlement  were  made  in  this  Territory  till  about 
1845.  In  1849  it  was  organized  into  a  territorial  government.  It  has 
successively  formed  parts  of  the  Missouri,  North- West,  Wisconsin,  and 
Iowa  Territories. 

St.  Paul,  a  flourishing  city,  port  of  entry,  capitol  of  Minnesota  Ter- 
ritory, and  seat  of  justice  of  Ramsey  county,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, 2,070  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  9  miles  by  land  below  the  Falls  of 
St.  Anthony.  Latitude,  44°  ?3'  46"  north,  longitude,  93°  5'  west.  It 
is  situated  on  a  bluff  70  or  80  feet  high,  and  presents  a  striking  view 
from  the  river.  The  hills  or  bluffs  which  partly  encircle  the  town  abound 
in  excellent  springs.  It  is  at  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation,  and  is 
a  place  of  active  business.  It  was  first  settled  about  1840,  and  in  1849, 
it  contained  1  church,  2  printing  offices,  3  hotels,  10  stores,  4  warehouses, 
2  drug  stores,  and  1  school-house.  A  fine  state-house  150  feet  long  and 
53  feet  wide,  surmounted  by  a  handsome  dome,  has  recently  been  erected. 
St.  Paul  now  contains  5  or  6  churches,  4  hotels,  2  or  3  printing  offices, 
1  book  store,  2  drug  stores,  numerous  other  stores,  and  several  saw 
mills.  The  value  of  the  business  of  the  town  increased  from  8131,000 
in  1849,  to  $41,579,500  in  1854.  Of  the  latter  amount,  $3,556,000 
shows  the  extent  of  its  banking  business,  $489,000  the  forwarding  and 
commission  business,  $251,000  the  dry  goods,  and  244,500  the  grocery 
business.  The  Baldwin  school  of  this  place  is  a  well-conducted  and 
flourishing  institution.  Population  in  1850,  1,294;  in  1854,  estimated 
at  6,000. 


REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR.  531 


REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


Lake  Superior  presents  an  area  of  32,000  square  miles.  It  lies 
between  the  46  and  49  parallels  of  latitude,  and  the  84°  and  92° 
of  longitude  west  of  Greenwich.  Its  greatest  length  is  400  miles.  Its 
greatest  breadth  from  Grand  Island  to  Neepigon  bay  is  160  miles.  The 
surface  of  the  lake  is  600  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean; 
but  its  bottom  is  300  feet  below ;  for  it  has  a  mean  depth  of  900  feet. 
The  French,  who  were  the  first  explorers  of  Lake  Superior,  fancifully 
described  it  as  a  watery  bow,  of  which  the  southern  shore  was  the 
string,  and  Keweenaw  point,  the  arrow.  The  lake  discharges  through 
the  St.  Mary's  strait  into  Lake  Huron,  which  occupies  a  lower  level  by 
44  feet  and  8  inches.  The  strait  is  about  70  miles  long,  but  it  is  divided 
into  two  sections  by  the  Falls  of  St.  Mary,  15  miles  below  Lake  Supe- 
rior. The  lower  section  is  navigable  for  small  steamboats,  and  vessels 
drawing  6  feet  of  water.  This  section  contains  4  large  islands  and 
several  smaller  ones  ;  but  the  principal  channel  —  the  westerly  one  —  is 
nearly  a  mile  in  width.  The  Falls  of  St.  Mary,  or  more  properly, 
rapids,  are  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  length,  having  a  fall  in  that 
distance,  of  21  feet  and  10  inches.  The  two  sections  are  now  united  by 
a  steamboat  and  ship  canal. 

Following  along  the  indentations  of  the  southern  shore,  around  the 
westerly  extremity  of  the  lake,  to  Arrow  river,  opposite  to  Isle  Royale, 
will  give  the  extreme  length  of  the  American  coast  which  can  not  be 
much  less  than  1,000  miles;  a  part  of  which  is  in  Michigan,  part 
in  Wisconsin,  and  part  in  Minnesota.  Lake  Superior  is  walled  in 
by  rocks,  which,  in  some  places,  are  piled  in  mountain  masses  upon  the 
very  shore.  The  waves  dash  against  precipices  and  beetling  crags,  that 
threaten  the  unfortunate  mariner,  in  a  storm  upon  a  lee  shore,  with 
almost  inevitable  destruction.  There  is  tolerable  anchorage  at  the  head 
of  St.  Mary's  strait  Keweenaw  point  has  2  sheltering  bays,  viz: 
Copper  harbor  and  Eagle  harbor.  Protection  may  be  found  from  the 
surf,  under  the  lee  of  the  Apostle  islands,  at  La  Pointe.  St.  Louis 
river,  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  is  a  good  harbor;  but  the  best  harbors  are 
afforded  by  the  indentations  of  the  shores  of  Isle  Royale. 

"  Owing  to  the  lofty  crags  which  surround  Lake  Superior,  the  winds, 
sweeping  over  the  lake,  impigne  upon  its  surface  so  abruptly  as  to  raise 
a  peculiarly  deep  and  combing  sea,  which  is  extremely  dangerous  to  boats 
and  small  craft.  It  is  not  safe,  on  this  account,  to  venture  far  out  into 
the  lake  in  bateaux  ;  and,  hence,  voyages  generally  hug  the  shore,  in 
order  to  be  able  to  take  land,  in  case  of  sudden  storms.     During  the 


532  REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 

months  of  June,  July,  and  August,  the  navigation  of  the  lake  is  ordi- 

/narily  safe ;  but  after  the  middle  of  September,  great  caution  is  required 
in  navigating  its  waters ;  and  boatmen  of  experience  never  venture  far 
from  land,  or  atttempt  long  traverses  across  the  bays.  The  boats  are 
always  drawn  far  up  on  the  land  at  every  camping-place  for  the  night 
lest  they  should  be  staved  to  pieces  by  the  surf,  whch  is  liable,  at  any 
moment,  to  rise  and  beat  with  great  fury  upon  the  beeches." 

One  of  the  most  curious  phenomena  of  the  lake  is  the  sudden  and  in 
explicable  heaving  and  swelling  of  its  waters,  when  the  air  is  still.  Mr. 
Schoolcraft,  who  passed  over  Lake  Superior,  in  1820,  thus  describes  it: 
"Although  it  was  calm,  and  had  been  so  all  day,  save  a  light  breeze  for 
a  couple  of  hours  after  leaving  the  Ontonagon,  the  waters  near  the  shore 
were  in  a  perfect  rage,  heaving  and  lashing  upon  the  rocks  in  a  manner 
which  rendered  it  difficult  to  land.  At  the  same  time,  scarce  a  breath 
of  air  was  stirring,  and  the  atmosphere  was  beautifully  serene."  Now 
this  agitation  was  observed  at  the  close  of  the  day's  voyage,  which  had 
carried  the  party  50  miles  from  the  Ontonagon,  and  the  slight  breeze 
had  been  blowing  only  a  little  while  in  the  morning. 

Another  noticeable  feature  of  Lake  Superior  is  the  extraordinary 
purity  and  transparency  of  the  water,  through  which  every  pebble  may 
be  distinctly  seen  at  the  depth  of  25  feet.  When  out  in  a  canoe  upon 
its  surface,  the  frail  vessel  does  not  seem  to  be  afloat  upon  a  watery  ele- 
ment, but  suspended  in  mid-air,  with  etherial  depths  around  and  below. 
Those  who  have  visited  Lake  George — the  world-famous  Horicon,  whose 
waters  were  at  one  time  carried  to  Home  to  fill  the  Papal  fonts  —  and 
Lake  Superior,  affirm  that  the  latter  far  surpasses  the  former  in  clearness 
and  transparency.  Indeed,  they  assure  us  that,  often,  while  looking 
down  from  the  hight  at  which  the  boat  seems  suspended,  the  head  will 
grow  dizzy,  and  a  feeling  of  faintness  be  superinduced.  The  water  of 
Lake  Superior,  like  that  of  Lakes  Michigan,  Huron,  and  Eric,  is  "  hard  " 
and  unfit  for  laundry  purposes,  without  a  previous  breaking  by  soda  or 
other  means.  This  can  be  accounted  for  only  on  the  supposition  that  it 
rolls  over  calcareous  beds  in  some  part  of  its  course,  but  what  part  has 
not  yet  been  ascertained;  for  the  water  of  all  the  streams  and  springs 
that  flow  into  the  lake,  so  far  as  they  have  been  examined,  is  found  to  be 
"  soft,"  and  so  entirely  free  from  earthy  or  other  foreign  matter^  "that 
the  daguerreotypist  finds  it  better  for  his  purposes  than  the  best  distilled 
water  of  the  chemist." 

Not  less  peculiar  is  the  atmosphere  around  and  over  the  lake,  which 
plays  strange  and  fantastic  tricks  in  the  face  of  high  heaven,  seeming  to 
possess  a  life  and  spirit  strictly  in  unison  with  the  wonderful  expanse  of 
waters  that  lies  spread  out  below.  The  mirage  of  Lake  Superior  fills  the 
spectator  with  astonishment.  For  weeks  during  the  summer,_the  trav- 
eler along  the  shores  of  this  inland  sea,  may  be  gratified  by  &  view  of  the 
most  curious  phantasmagoria — images  of  mountains  and  islands  being 
vividly  represented  in  all  their  outlines,  with  their  tufts  of  evergreen 
trees,  precipices,  and  rocky  pinnacles,  all  inverted  in  the  air,  and  hanging 
high  over  their  terrestrial  originals,  and  then  again  repeated  upright  in 


REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR.  533 

another  picture  directly  above  the  inverted  one.  Rock  harbor,  in  Isle 
Royale,  is  the  most  noted  locality  for  observing  these  phantasmagoria. 
But  the  mirage  is  not  confined  to  any  particular  part  of  the  lake.  Fre- 
quently, the  voyager,  long  before  he  has  hove  in  sight  of  land,  will  see 
the  coast  he  is  approaching  pictured  upon  the  skies  along  the  horizon;  and 
after  the  real  shore  has  appeared,  three  views  of  it  will  be  presented — 
two,  right  side  up,  according  to  the  order  of  creation;  and  the  middle 
one  bottom  upward.  Vessels  will  appear  to  be  sailing  in  the  air,  points 
of  land  bent  up  at  right-angles,  and  the  sun  at  setting  twisted  into 
astonishing  shapes. 

The  skies  and  the  waters  seem  to  harmonize  completely  together. 
While  the  sky  daguerreotypes  all  below,  the  water  catches  the  tints  of 
all  that  is  above,  and  the  ethereal  dome  is  caverned  in  the  deep.  Mr. 
Jackson,  United  States  geologist,  says  of  the  lake:  "The  color  of  the 
water,  effected  by  the  hues  of  the  sky,  and  holding  no  sediment  to  dim 
its  transparency,  presents  deeper  tints  than  are  seen  on  the  lower 
lakes — deep  tints  of  blue,  green,  and  red  prevailing,  according  to  the 
color  of  the  sky  and  clouds.  I  have  seen  at  sunset  the  surface  of  the 
lake  off  Isle  Royale  of  a  deep-claret  color — a  tint  much  richer  than  ever 
is  reflected  from  the  waters  of  other  lakes,  or  in  any  other  country  I 
have  visited." 

Lake  Superior,  unlike  Lake  Huron,  has  but  few  islands.  The  largest 
of  these  are  Grand  island,  situated  near  the  southern  shore,  132 
miles  west  of  St.  Mary's,  and  represented  to  have  a  deep  and  land- 
locked harbor;  Middle  island,  toward  the  westerly  extremity  of  the 
lake,  near  the  group  of  Apostle  islands;  and  Isle  Royale,  near  the 
northern  shore,  and  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  United  States. 
Isle  Royale  is  about  40  miles  long,  and  averages  6  miles  in  width.  It 
is  a  most  interesting  island,  singularly  formed,  and  sending  out  long 
spits  of  rocks  into  the  lake  at  its  north-eastern  extremity;  while  at 
its  south-western  end,  it  shelves  off  far  into  the  lake,  presenting 
slightly-inclined  beds  of  red  sandstone;  the  tabular  sheets  of  which, 
for  miles  from  the  coast,  are  barely  covered  with  water,  and  offer  dan- 
gerous shoals  and  reefs,  on  which  vessels,  and  even  boats,  would  be 
quickly  stranded,  if  they  endeavored  to  pass  near  the  shore."  But 
igneous  rocks  constitute  the  rocky  basis  of  more  than  four-fifths  of  the 
island,  and  in  those  portions  of  it  where  these  exist,  the  shores  are  pre- 
cipitous. "  Bold  cliffs  of  columnar  trap  and  castellated  rocks,  with 
mural  escarpments,  sternly  present  themselves  to  the  surf,  and  defy  the 
storms.  The  waters  of  the  lake  are  deep  close  to  their  very  shores,  and 
the  largest  ship  might  in  many  places  lie  close  to  the  rocks,  as  at  an 
artificial  pier." 

Isle  Royale  contains  a  great  number  of  beautiful  lakes,  the  largest  of 
which  is  Siskawit  lake,  on  the  southern  side,  near  Siskawit  bay.  It  is 
also  surrounded  by  innumerable  small  islands,  which  cluster  close  to  ita 
shores,  as  if  for  protection  from  the  waves.  Mr.  Jackson,  before  referred 
to,  gives  the  following  interesting  description  of  the  general  appearance 
of  Isle  Royale:  "Added  to  the  fantastic  irregularities  of  the  coast  and 


534  REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 

its  castle-like  islands — the  abrupt  elevation  of  the  hills  inland,  rising  liko 
almost  perpendicular  walls  from  the  shores  of  the  numerous  beautiful 
lakes  which  are  scattered  through  the  interior  of  the  island,  and  cor- 
responding with  Hues  of  the  mountain  upheaval — we  observe  occasionally- 
rude  crags  detached  from  the  main  body  of  the  mountains,  and,  in  one 
place,  2  lofty  twin  towers,  standing  on  a  hillside,  and  rising  perpendic- 
ularly, like  huge  chimneys,  to  the  elevation  of  70  feet,  while  they  are 
surrounded  by  the  deep-green  foliage  of  the  primeval  forest." 

In  the  secluded  valleys  between  the  hills  of  the  Isle  Royale  there 
are  either  little  lakes,  or  swamps  filled  with  a  dense  growth  of  white 
cedars.  Upon  the  higher  lands,  the  timber  is  a  mixture  of  maple,  birch, 
spruce,  fir,  and  pine  trees,  which  are  of  thrifty  growth,  and  will  afford 
both  timber  and  fuel.  The  soil  of  more  than  nine-tenths  of  the  island 
is  formed  by  the  decomposition  of  the  trap  rocks;  and  such  a  soil  is 
well-known  to  be  warm  and  fertile.  In  the  lowlands,  the  springs  from 
the  hills  will  keep  the  soil  cold  and  wet;  but  if  properly  drained,  there 
is  no  doubt  those  lands  might  be  cultivated,  and  would  produce  good 
crops.  Indeed,  this  is  said  to  have  been  proved  in  the  vicinity  of  Rock 
harbor,  where  the  lowland  soil,  which  was  originally  covered  with 
swamp-muck,  is  now  drained  and  made  productive. 

In  the  deep  shadow  of  the  crags,  and  in  some  of  the  thick  swamps  of 
cedar,  it  is  said  that  perennial  ice  has  been  found  upon  the  island;  and  on 
the  immediate  rocky  border  of  the  lake  shore,  the  influence  of  the  wintry 
winds  from  the  lake  is  strikingly  exemplified  in  the  stunted  growth  of 
the  fir  and  spruce  trees,  that  get  root  in  the  crevices  of  the  rocks.  Mr. 
Jackson  says  :  "  In  numerous  instances,  we  were  able  to  witness  the  joint 
effects  of  cold  air  and  a  limited  supply  of  soil,  in  retarding  the  growth 
of  trees,  and  giving  the  wood  an  extremely  fine  texture.  Small  trees 
have  sprung  up,  having  all  the  appearance  of  age  which  the  dwarfed 
trees  raised  by  the  ingenious  Chinese  gardener  are  known  to  present. 
Those  little  trees,  from  four  inches  to  afoot  high,  are  covered  with  mosses 
like  old  trees,  and  the  tiny  stem  presents  in  its  bark  and  wood,  the 
different  layers,  representing  many  seasons.  In  cutting  through  these 
little  trees,  they  were  found,  in  some  instances,  to  possess  40  different 
annual  rings;  and  the  wood  was  nearly  as  hard  as  boxwood,  and  as 
fine!" 

Rock  harbor,  on  the  southern  side  of  the  north-easterly  end  of  Isle 
Royale,  is  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  haven  on  Lake  Superior.  The 
bay  extends  about  4  miles  up  into  the  island.  The  water  is  deep 
enough  for  any  vessels,  and  the  harbor  is  perfectly  sheltered  from  every 
wind.  Around  its  entrance  are  numerous  islands,  that  stand  like  so 
many  rocky  castles  to  break  the  heavy  surges  of  the  lake.  "In  some  re- 
rspects  it  resembles  the  Ray  of  Naples,  with  Procida,  Capri,  and  Ischia  at  its 
entrance:  but  no  modern  volcano  completes  the  back-ground  of  the 
picture,  though  there  must  at  one  time  have  been  greater  eruptions  there 
than  ever  took  place  in  Italy." 

Lake  Superior  is  fed  by  about  eighty  streams,  which  are  represented 
to  be  not  navigable,  except  for  canoes,  owing  to  the  falls  and  rapids  with 


REGION  OP  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


535 


which  they  abound.  The  principal  ones  that  flow  through  American 
territory  are  the  St.  Louis,  Montreal,  Presque  isle,  Arrow,  Little  Mon- 
treal, Ontonagon,  Eagle,  Sturgeon,  Huron,  Dead,  Carp,  Chocolate,  La 
Prairie,  Two  hearted,  and  Tequamenon  rivers.  The  largest  of  these  are 
the  Ontonagon  and  Sturgeon  rivers,  which,  by  the  removal  of  some  ob- 
structions at  their  mouths,  and  the  construction  of  piers  to  prevent  the 
formation  of  bars,  might  be  converted  into  excellent  and  spacious 
harbors,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  some  of  the  most  valuable  mines 
where  the  want  of  safe  anchorage  is  now  severely  felt ;  as  at  Eagle  har- 
bor, for  instance,  where  the  propellers  have  to  cast  anchor  over  a  hun- 
dreded  yards  out,  and  the  copper  intended  for  shipment  has  to  be  first 
placed  on  board  of  a  scow,  on  which  passengers  also  take  a  position,  and 
then  floated  out  to  the  propellers.  The  copper  is  raised  on  board  by 
means  of  a  crane,  which  is  stationary  upon  the  side  of  the  vessel. 

The  Twin  river,  or  Two-hearted  river,  as  it  is  called  by  the  traders, 
consists  in  the  union  of  two  separate  streams,  near  the  point  of  its 
outlet.  It  empties  into  the  lake  72  miles  westward  of  St.  Mary's.  A 
short  distance  beyond  Grand  island,  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream. 
known  as  Laughing-fish  river,  a  curious  flux  and  reflux  of  the  water  is 
maintained,  similar  to  the  tides  of  the  ocean.  At  the  mouth  of  Chocolate 
river,  there  is  a  large  bay  setting  up  deep  into  the  shore,  which  requires 
a  day's  canoe-travel  to  circumnavigate  it.  Just  beyond  that,  the  traveler 
will  first  strike  the  old  crystaline  rocks,  or  primitive  formation.  From 
hence,  for  2  days'  travel  to  Huron  bay,  the  shores  presents  a  conti- 
nuous series  of  rough,  conical  peaks,  which  are  noted  for  immense  bodies 
of  iron  ore,  chiefly  in  the  condition  of  iron  glance,  from  which  the  exten- 
sive iron  works  of  Carp  river,  seated  at  the  foot  of  these  mountains,  are 
yielding  such  fine  blooms.  Continuing  on  westward  across  Keweenaw 
bay,  the  canoe  voyager  will  enter  Portage  lake,  embosomed  near  the 
base  of  Keweenaw  point,  and,  with  a  short  portage,  will  reach  the  lake 
west  of  the  point  without  the  toil  and  distance  of  circumnavigating  it. 
And,  in  doing  so,  he  will  observe  that  the  geology  of  the  country  has 
become  entirely  changed.  He  will  have  passed  into  the  midst  of  a 
region  of  trap-dike — the  great  copper-bearing  rock  of  Lake  Superior. 
Passing  onward  along  the  lake,  the  dim-blue  outlines  of  the  Porcupine 
mountains  will  rise  to  view  on  the  edge  of  the  horizon,  directly  ahead. 
These  mountains,  on  a  clear  day,  may  be  seen  from  a  distance  of  sixty 
miles.  Soon  the  voyager  will  be  seen  traversing  the  entrance  of  Little 
Salmon,  Graverod,  Misery,  and  Firesteel  rivers,  to  the  mouth  of  Ontonagon 
river,  where  a  large  body  of  water  enters  the  lake ;  but  the  mouth  of  the 
river  is  very  much  obstructed  by  a  sand-bar.  There,  likewise,  may  be 
observed  another  of  those  curious  refluxes,  where  the  water,  impeded  and 
damned  up  by  gales,  reacts  with  unusual  force. 


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538  REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 

hights  of  land  between  Portage  lake  and  Montreal  river  vary  from  600 
feet  to  1,300  feet  in  hight. 

The  Superior  country  is  celebrated  alike  for  its  iron,  its  copper,  and  its 
•silver.  It  can  never  become  much  of  an  agricultural  country;  but  its 
mineral  resources  are  very  great,  beyond  the  power  of  calculation.  The 
country  has  been  explored  just  sufficiently  to  enable  us  to  form  a  mere 
rough  guess  as  to  its  capability  of  producing  the  most  valuable  metals  in 
constant  use  by  man.  The  iron  occupies  a  region  distinct  by  itself. 
The  copper  and  silver  are  fouud  blended  together. 

The  iron  region  of  Lake  Superior,  no  less  than  the  copper  region,  is 
one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world.  It  commences  along  the  coast  of  the 
lake,  with  the  metamorphic  rocks,  extending  from  the  Chocolate  river  to 
the  Dead  river,  a  distance  of  10  miles,  following  the  shore,  and  sweeps 
away  southerly  and  westerly  across  the  branches  of  the  Menominee 
river — the  Machi-gamig  and  the  Brule — and  the  Sturgeon  river,  and  the 
Esconaba  river,  that  empties  into  Little  Bay  de  Noquet,  near  the  head 
of  Green  bay.  Now,  it  must  be  borne  in  mind,  that  the  Chocolate  river 
comes  into  Lake  Superior  from  the  south-east,  and  the  Dead  river  from 
the  west.  On  the  meridian  intersecting  the  mouth  of  the  Dead  river, 
the  iron-bearing  rocks  extend  directly  south  more  than  11  miles; 
and  on  that  of  the  Jackson  forge,  9  miles  west  of  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  the  iron  region  is  some  14  miles  in  width.  Its  western  limit  has 
not  been  determined ;  but  it  must  be  far  within  the  borders  of  Wiscon- 
sin, having  been  traced  in  that  direction  nearly  100  miles.  The  nor- 
thern limit  is  nearly  on  a  line  drawn  due  west  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Dead  river.  The  southerly  limit  also,  from  the  Chocolate  river,  runs 
pretty  much  straight  west,  till  beyond  the  Esconaba,  where  it  turns  off 
south  along  the  Machi-gamig,  and  crosses  the  Menominee.  There  the 
width  of  the  iron  region  is  known  to  be  more  than  50  miles.  This 
valuable  mineral  tract  has  been  but  partially  explored,  and  no  sufficient 
data  have  been  furnished  to  estimate  exactly  its  area. 

There  is  the  most  abundant  authority,  however,  for  saying,  that  the 
iron  of  the  Superior  country  is  both  rich  and  inexhaustible.  The  fol- 
lowing statements,  condensed  from  the  reports  made  by  the  persons  en- 
gaged in  the  United  States  geological  survey  of  the  mineral  lands,  will 
convey  some  idea  of  the  extent  and  quality  of  the  ore. 

The  first  bed  of  magnetic  ore  is  situated  near  the  Menominee  river, 
and  in  the  direction  of  Fort  river,  a  branch  of  the  Esconaba,  at  the  cor- 
ner of  townships  41  and  42,  north,  and  between  ranges  29  and  30, 
west.  It  was  found  in  a  low  ridge,  some  3  chains  in  width,  which  ap- 
peared to  be  one  mass  of  iron  ore,  stratified  and  jointed.  The  ore  has 
generally  a  granular  structure;  color,  iron-black,  passing  into  steel-gray; 
luster,  when  fresh  broken,  metallic,  but  soon  oxydizes,  upon  exposure 
to  the  atmosphere. 

The  second  bed  of  ore  is  situated  on  the  east  boundary  of  township 
46  north,  range  30  west,  sections  1  and  6,  along  the  south-western  shore 
of  a  small  lake,  in  the  Machi-gamig  river.  The  extent  of  this  bed  of 
ore  is  unknown;  but  it  borders  that  side  of  the  lake,  from  20  to  50 
feet  in  hight.     The  ore  is  likewise  stratified  and  jointed,  so  that  it  may 


REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


539 


be  quarried  with  ease.  In  color  and  luster  it  resembles  the  first — ■ 
fresh  fractures  appearing  like  fine-grained  cast-iron.  Now,  this  bed 
of  ore  extends  along  through  a  range  of  hills  on  the  north-easterly  side 
also  of  that  lake,  to  an  unknown  extent,  and  in  a  mass  so  great  as  to 
stagger  belief.  Let  the  surveyor  speak  for  himself:  "The  river  here 
forms  a  lake-like  expansion,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north-east  by  a  range 
of  hills,  which  rise  abruptly'to  the  hight  of  200  feet  above  the  water. 
We  explored  this  ridge,  and  found  that  it  was  composed,  for  the  most 
part,  of  nearly  pure  specular  oxyd  of  iron.  It  shoots  up  in  a  perpendic- 
ular cliff,  113  feet  in  hight,  so  pure,  that  it  is  difficult  to  determine  its 
mineral  associations.  We  passed  along  the  base  of  this  cliff  for  more 
than  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  seeking  for  a  gap,  through  which  we  might 
pass  and  gain  the  summit.  At  length,  and  by  clambering  from  one 
point  to  another,  we  succeeded.  Passing  along  the  brow  of  the  cliff, 
40  feet,  the  mass  was  comparatively  pure;  then  succeeded  a  bed  of 
quartz,  composed  of  grounded  grains,  with  small  specks  of  iron  dissemi- 
nated, and  large,  rounded  masses  of  the  same  material  inclosed,  consti- 
tuting a  conglomerate.  This  bed  was  15  feet  in  thickness,  and  was 
succeeded  again  by  specular  iron,  exposed  in  places  to  the  width  of 
100  feet;  but  the  soil  and  trees  prevented  our  determining  its  entire 
width.  This  one  cliff  contains  iron  sufficient  to  supply  the  world  for  ages ; 
yet  we  saw  neither  its  length  nor  its  width,  but  only  an  outline  of  the  mass." 

It  may  be  proper  here  to  suggest,  that  the  best  possible  use  that  can 
be  made  of  the  capital  afloat  in  the  importing  trade,  would  be  to  make 
one  more  investment  in  English  railroad  iron,  to  lay  a  track  from  Green 
bay  up  the  Esconaba  river,  which  reaches  within  a  mile  of  this  mountain 
of  iron,  and  make  it  accessible.  Whoever  will  do  this,  will  do  more  to 
promote  the  wealth  of  the  country  than  ever  has  yet  been  done  by  open- 
in<r  mines;  for  iron  is  the  most  valuable  mineral  on  the  continent,  despite 
the  copper  further  north,  and  the  gold  of  California.  Set  this  native 
mountain  of  ore  once  to  running,  and  it  will  flow  throughout  the  earth, 
superseding  the  iron  of  all  other  countries. 

The  third  bed  of  ore  is  situated  on  the  east  boundary  of  township  47 
north,  range  29  west,  near  section  13,  in  another  cliff,  facing  south- 
west, and  varying  from  20  to  50  feet  in  hight.  The  ore  is  stratified 
and  jointed,  and  in  quality  similar  to  the  other  beds.  The  extent  of 
this  bed  is  likewise  unknown.  13  chains  distant,  south-south-west 
from  the  main  mass,  on  the  shore  of  a  pond,  the  ore  rises  above  the 
surface  in  the   form  of  a  knob,  30  feet  in  hight. 

The  fourth  bed  of  ore  is  near  the  south  boundary  of  township  48  north, 
range  28  west,  on  section  4,  consisting  of  a  knob  of  iron  50  feet  in  hight. 

The  fifth  bed  of  ore  is  in  the  next  township  west  of  the  fourth 
bed,  on  section  32,  consisting  of  a  ridge  of  iron  ore  8  feet  in  hight. 
It  was  traced  75  chains.  This  bed  is  very  extensive,  and  highly  mag- 
netic.    In   quality  it  is  similar  to   the    others. 

In  this  manner  the  surveyors  proceed  to  enumerate  ore-bed  after  ore- 
bed,  throughout  the  various  townships  of  that  great  mineral  tract.  The 
foregoing  is  probably  sufficient  to  satisfy  the  reader  of  exhaustless  beds 
of  that  ore  in  the  Superior  country.     With  the  mention  of  one  more  ore- 


540  REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 

bed,  this  enumeration  snail  cease.  It  is  referred  to  because  it  is  much 
nearer  the  Chocolate  river  than  the  others,  being  directly  south  of  the 
Jackson  furnace  6  miles,  in  township  47,  range  26,  sections  29,  30, 
31,  and  32.  There  are  2  hills  of  the  ore,  made  up  almost  entirely  of 
granulated,  magnetic,  or  specular  iron,  with  small  quantities  of  spathous 
and  micaceous  iron.  The  more  northerly  hill  extends  east  and  west 
full  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  is  over  1,000  feet  in  width — a  single  mass 
of  ore.  The  ore  breaks  readily  into  subrhomboidal  fragments,  in  such 
manner  as  will  greatly  facilitate  the  operations  of  mining. 

In  conclusion,  the  geologists  say :  "  This  iron  region  is  the  most  val- 
uable and  extensive  in  the  world  for  the  manufacture  of  the  finer  varie- 
ties of  wrought-iron  and  steel.  When  we  consider  the  immense  extent 
of  the  district,  the  mountain  masses  of  the  ore,  its  purity  and  adaptation 
to  the  manufacture  of  the  most  valuable  kinds  of  iron,  and  the  immense 
forrests  which  cover  the  surface,  suitable  for  charcoal,  this  district  may 
be  pronounced  unrivaled.  The  ore  consists  mainly  of  the  specular,  or 
peroxyd  of  iron,  an  admixture  of  the  fine-grained  magnetic.  In  some 
instances,  the  whole  ridge  or  knob,  appears  to  consist  of  one  mass  of 
pure  ore — so  pure  that  no  selection  is  required;  but  an  unlimited  quan- 
tity might  be  quarried  or  picked  up  in  loose  blocks  around  the  slopes. 
In  others,  the  ore  is  mixed  with  seams  of  quartz  or  jasper,  which  ren- 
ders it  less  valuable,  and  requires  some  care  for  the  selection.  The  iron 
in  such  cases  presents  a  banded  or  contorted  structure,  or  alternating 
seams  of  steel-gray,  and  brilliant  red.  The  appearance  of  a  mountain 
cliff  thus  made  up,  is  extraordinary.  The  iron  mountain  of  Missouri 
becomes  insignificant  when  compared  with  these  immense  deposits." 

The  surveyors  report  some  good  agricultural  lands  in  this  district.  The 
following  table  will  show  the  location  of  them,  viz.: 

Townships  42  north,  in  ranges  32,  33,  34,  and  35,  west. 
Townships  43  north,  in  ranges  32,  33,  34,  and  35,  west. 
Townships  47  north,  in  ranges  27  and  28,  west. 
Townships  48  north,  in  ranges  27  and  28,  west. 
Townships  49  north,  in  ranges  32,  33,  34,  and  35,  west. 
Townships  50  north,  in  ranges  29,  30,  31,  32,  33,  34,  and  35,  west. 

These  tracts  of  fertile  land  will  become  of  great  value,  when  the  rivers 
shall  have  been  opened,  and  a  mining  population  introduced,  creating  a 
sure  and  convenient  home-market  for  the  productions  of  the  farm. 

This  bountiful  iron  region,  in  most  part,  sustains  a  heavy  growth  of 
maple,  birch,  pine,  and  oak  timber;  and  the  streams,  numerous  and 
rapid,  supply  any  amount  of  water-power.  If  a  railroad  was  constructed 
from  Little  Bay  de  Noquet,  on  Green  bay,  to  Keweenaw  bay,  on  Lake 
Superior,  a  distance  of  110  miles,  through  the  heart  of  the  iron  region, 
those  extensive  ore-beds  would  be  left  no  longer  unoccupied  and  use- 
less. It  would  seem  to  be  like  offering  an  indignity  to  Providence  to 
neglect  the  development  of  such  magnificent  resources,  placed  within  the 
borders  of  the  United  States. 

Next  in  importance  after  the  iron,  is  the  copper  of  the  Superior 
country.    The  region  where  that  metal  is  found,  along  the  southern  shore 


REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR,  541 

of  the  lake,  is  described  as  follows,  by  Messrs.  Foster  and  Whitney,  United 
States  geologists:  "The  examination  of  a  great  number  of  localities  has 
demonstrated  that  the  veins  of  copper  and  its  ores,  in  the  sandstone 
and  conglomerate,  are  not  to  be  relied  on,  and  that  when  worked,  even 
to  an  inconsiderable  depth,  they  give  out.  Although  copper  is  found  at 
short  intervals,  from  the  Pictured  rocks  to  the  Montreal  river,  in  this 
rock,  yet  we  have  designated  no  tract  in  it  as  mineral  land.  As  all  the 
productive  lodes  are  confined  to  the  ranges  of  trap,  all  of  the  mineral 
tracts  designated  lie  within  those  ranges.  What  is  generally  known  as 
the  trap-range,  consists  of  a  belt  of  igneous  rocks,  composed  for  the 
most  part  of  hornblende  and  feldspar,  which  in  places  have  broken 
through  the  sandstones,  tilting  them  up  at  high  angles;  but  oftner  are 
found  in  alternating  beds,  having  the  same  dip  as  the  detrital  rocks. 
The  trap  range  extends  from  Montreal  river — the  western  boundary  of 
the  district — and  disappears  in  the  lake  at  the  extremity  of  Keweenaw 
point.  Its  general  course  is  a  little  north  of  east,  preserving  a  pretty 
uniform  parallelism  with  the  southern  coast  of  Lake  Superior.  Its 
width  varies  from  two  miles  to  twelve.  Throughout  this  range — nearly 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  extent — copper,  mostly  native,  is  dissemi- 
nated, but  more  profusely  in  some  places  than  others.  In  fact,  there 
may  be  said  to  exist  two  centers  of  metallic  riches,  around  each  of  which 
copper  has  been  accumulated  in  considerable  quantity,  but  under  cir- 
cumstances somewhat  different.  The  one  may  be  designated  as  the 
Keweenaw  point  center,  which  has  a  system  of  veins  cutting  across  the 
trap-range.  The  other  may  be  designated  as  the  Ontonagon  center; 
and  here  the  veins  preserve  a  certain  parallelism  with  the  ranges,  or 
run  with  the  formation." 

The  red  sandstone  and  conglomerate  rocks  of  Keweenaw  point  un- 
doubtedly existed  long  before  the  trap-rocks  were  pushed  up  through 
them,  and  were  produced  by  the  deposition  of  fine  sand  and  pebbles  in 
water;  for  the  ripple  marks  are  well  preserved,  and  record  this  fact  in 
the  most  absolute  and  positive  manner.  It  is  supposed  that,  by  pres- 
sure and  heat,  the  materials  of  a  loose,  shifting  sand,  became  converted 
into  a  solid  sandstone,  the  layers  of  sand  forming  the  different  strata. 
Previous  to  the  action  of  the  disturbing  forces  from  beneath,  the  sand- 
stone must  have  been  composed  in  horizontal  layers,  as  water  necessarily 
deposits  a  mechanical  sediment  in  that  manner.  But  the  sandstone  has 
been  broken  through  by  the  trap-rocks,  and  elevated  at  considerable 
angles  along  the  line  of  its  disruption.  It  is  plain,  that  the  forcing  of 
a  melted  mass  of  rocks  up  through  such  a  sedimentary  strata  must  have 
exerted  a  powerful  influence  upon  the  sediment  itself.  Accordingly,  it 
is  found,  at  Keweenaw  point,  that  a  chemical  combination  took  place, 
of  the  material  of  the  sandstone  with  the  material  of  the  trap  rocks, 
along  the  line  of  junction,  resulting  in  the  formation  of  an  amygdaloid 
rock.  And  between  the  sandstone  and  the  trap  is  found  a  mass  of 
broken,  indurated  sandstone,  scoria  of  fused  trap  and  sandstone,  aniyg- 
daloidal  and  compact  trap,  and  porphyry;  which  together  form,  when 
re-cemented  by  heat,  a  rock  known  as  trap-tuff  or  breccia.  Near  Eagle 
river,  the  trap  breccias  occupy  a  considerable  space  between  the  sand- 


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542  REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 

0 

stone  and  the  amygdaloid;  and  some  have  mistaken  them  for  a  conglo- 
merate of  the  sandstones  in  that  vicinity.  And  when  the  trap  rocks 
conjoin  with  the  sandstone,  the  former  is  found  to  be  amygdaloidal,  and 
the  cavities  generally  filled  with  chlorite,  in  particles  varying  in  size 
from  a  pea  to  a  walnut.  In  one  portion,  it  has  been  noticed  that  when- 
ever a  cavity  is  filled  with  chlorite,  a  granule  of  copper  will  be  found 
concealed  in  its  center;  but  nearer  the  copper  veins  the  cavities  are 
oftener  filled  with  pure  copper  or  silver,  or  with  both  those  metals. 
One  of  the  most  surprising  features  of  the  trap  region  of  Lake  Superior 
is  the  occurrence  of  veins  of  solid  metallic  copper,  admixed  with  native 
silver,  and  yet  not  alloyed  with  it.  Two  veins  occurring  in  a  stratified 
rock  generally  traverse  the  strata  at  a  considerable  angle,  and  are  more 
regular  than  those  which  run  parallel  to  the  layers,  possessing  well- 
defined  walls,  and  often  incrusted  with  vein-stone,  prehnite,  quartz,  and 
calcareous  spar.  The  rocky  fissure  is  filled  with  vein-stones  of  different 
kinds,  which,  together  with  the  accompanying  minerals,  constitute  the 
lode.  Sometimes  the  veins,  at  the  surface,  are  composed  entirely  of 
prehnite,  and  contain  only  minute  specks  of  copper  inclosed  in  the 
crystals,  or  sparsely  scattered  throughout  the  mass.  Beneath  this  cover- 
ing of  vein-stones  is  found  the  solid  metallic  copper  of  Lake  Superior. 

The  rocks   of  the   copper  region   have  been  elevated  to  an  angle  of 

about  forty  degrees,  inclining  to  the   north-west,  by  the  terrific   forces 

that  injected  the  molten  copper  throughout  their  cracks  and  crevices. 

Along  the  hillsides,  where,  by  reason  of  this  angular  elevation,  the  rocks 

are  made  to  out-crop  the  superincumbent  masses  of  decayed  rock,  and 

other  accumulations,  have  been  washed  away  by  the  action  of  torrents; 

and  the  metal,  in  some  places,  appears   at  the  surface.     Some  of  those 

points,  where  the   copper  is   thus  exposed,  would  seem  to  have  attracted 

the  attention  of  the   Indians,  long  before  any  white  man  ever  trod  the 

bleak  and  sterile   shores   of  Lake  Superior.     Along  the  banks   of  the 

Ontonagon  river  have  been  found  the  ancient  mines,  to  which  the  tribes 

must  have  resorted  for  a  supply  of  copper  for  the  manufacture  of  tools 

and  ornaments.     The  metal  was  very  highly  prized  by  them;  and  pieces 

of  native   copper  were   treasured  up  with  great  care,  and  used  as  an 

article  of  traffic.     It  is  evident  that  the  aboriginal  miners  were  not  more 

advanced  toward  civilization  than  the  Indians  generally;  because  the 

mining  and  other  implements,  found  on  the  Ontonagon  in  the  ancient 

excavations,    are   precisely  similar  to   those   which   are  known  to  have 

been  in  use  among  the  tribes  of  the  Atlantic  coast.    The  stone-hammers, 

made  of  oval  pebbles,  groved  about  the  mindle  for  withes,  which  formed 

the  handles,  were  the   native  instruments  for   breaking   out  pieces   of 

copper  on  Lake  Superior,  and  for   breaking   the  hard  rocks  of  Moose- 

"head  lake  for  the  arrow  and  spear-heads  of  the  eastern  Indians.     Such 

hammers,  together  with  half-finished  stone  scalping-knives,  have  been 

found  both  at  Ontonagon  and  at  Eagle  river.     The  Indian  miner  also 

assisted  the  operation  of  breaking  the  rocks  by  kindling  fires  upon  them; 

and  hence   the   origin    of  the  charred  brands  and  coal  that  have  been 

found  around  the  battered  and  beaten  projections  of  copper. 

The  Lake  Superior  was  greatly  reverenced  by  the  Indians  inhabiting 


REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR.  543 

its  shores  at  the  time  of  the  early  explorations  of  the  Jesuit  mission- 
aries. Claude  Allouez  says,  respecting  this  superstition:  "The  savages 
respect  this  lake  as  a  divinity,  and  make  sacrifices  to  it;  on  account 
perhaps,  of  its  magnitude,  for  it  is  200  leagues  long  and  80  wide; 
or  on  account  of  its  goodness  in  furnishing  them  with  fishes,  which 
nourish  all  these  people,  where  there  is  but  little  game.  There 
are  often  found  beneath  the  water  pieces  of  copper,  all  formed,  and  of 
the  weight  of  10  and  20  pounds.  I  have  seen  them  many  times  in 
the  hands  of  the  savages;  and  as  they  are  superstitious,  they  keep  them 
as  so  many  divinities,  or  as  presents  from  the  gods  beneath  the  water, 
who  have  given  them  as  pledges  of  good  fortune.  On  that  account, 
they  keep  the  pieces  of  copper  enveloped  among  their  most  precious 
furniture.  There  are  some  who  have  preserved  them  for  more  than  fifty 
years,  and  others  who  have  had  them  in  their  families  from  time  im- 
memorial, and  cherish  them  as  household  gods." 

The  first  Englishman  that  ever  visited  the  copper  region  was  Alex- 
ander Henry,  who,  after  having  his  hair  almost  started  out  of  his  head 
at  the  frightful  massacre  of  Michilimackinac,  continued  in  the  Superior 
country  for  several  years,  poking  about  among  its  ravines  and  precipices 
with  a  most  refreshing  indifference  to  danger.  One  or  two  extracts  from 
his  journal  will  show  what  he  saw  there. 

"On  the  19th  of  August,  1765,  we  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Ontona- 
gon river,  one  of  the  largest  on  the  south  side  of  the  lake.  At  the 
mouth  was  an  Indian  village ;  and  3  leagues  above,  a  fall,  at  the  foot 
of  which  sturgeon,  at  this  season,  were  obtained  so  abundant,  that  a 
month's  subsistence  for  a  regiment  could  have  been  taken  in  a  few 
hours.  But  I  found  this  river  chiefly  remarkable  for  the  abundance  of 
virgin  copper  which  is  on  its  banks  and  in  its  neighborhood. 

"  On  my  way  back  to  Michilimackinac,  I  encamped  a  second  time  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Ontonagon  river,  and  now  took  the  opportunity  of 
going  10  miles  up  the  river  with  Indian  guides.  The  object  for  which 
I  most  expressly  went,  and  to  which  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  being  led, 
was  a  mass  of  copper  of  the  weight,  according  to  my  estimate,  of  no  less 
than  five  tons.  Such  was  its  pure  and  malleable  state,  that,  with  an  ax, 
I  was  able  to  cut  off  a  portion  weighing  a  hundred  pounds.  On  view- 
ing the  surrounding  surface,  I  conjectured  that  the  mass,  at  some  period 
or  other,  had  rolled  down  the  side  of  a  lofty  hill  which  rises  at  its  back.'* 
This  copper  rock  has  been  removed  to  Washington,  and  may  now  be 
seen  lying  on  the  ground  near  the  War  Department. 

That  same  enterprising  explorer  was  also  the  first  to  organize  a  Lake 
Superior  Mining  Company.  In  1770,  Messrs.  Baxter,  Bostwick,  an 
Henry  built  a  barge  at  Point  aux  Pius,  and  laid  the  keel  of  a  sloop  of 
forty  tons.  They  were  in  search  of  gold  and  silver,  and  expected  to 
make  their  fortunes.  The  other  partners  in  England  were  "  His  Royal 
Highness,  the  Duke  of  Gloucester;  Mr.  Secretary  Townshend;  Sir 
Samuel  Tuchet,  Bart.;  Mr.  Baxter,  counsel  of  the  Empress  of  Russia; 
and  Mr.  Cruikshank :  In  America,  Sir  WilMam  Johnson,  Bart.;  Mr. 
Bostwick ;  Mr.  Baxter,  and  myself.  A  charter  had  been  petitioned  for 
and  obtained;  but,  owing  to  our  ill  success,  it  was  never  taken  from  the 

35 


544  EEGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 

seal-office."  Mr.  Baxter  sold  the  sloop  and  other  effects  of  the  company, 
and  paid  its  debts,  which  certainly  was  a  most  commendable  feature  of 
their  operations.  Lake  Superior  seems  then  to  have  been  abandoned, 
and  its  mineral  resources  forgotten. 

Since  1845,  public  attention  has  been  again  drawn  toward  the  Su- 
perior country.  Its  mineral  lands  have  been  surveyed,  affording  tolera- 
bly accurate  information  of  the  localities  where  the  ores  of  copper,  and 
iron,  and  silver  abound.  A  large  number  of  mining  companies  have 
been  organized,  and  some  of  them  have  gone  into  successful  operation. 
It  has  been  stated  that  there  are  forty-one  companies  carrying  on  mining 
operations  at  Keweenaw  point  alone,  among  which  are  the  following : 
Northwest,  Siskowit,  Algonquin,  Piscataqua,  Ontonogon,  Bohemia, 
Chesapeake,  and  Cade — eight  having  their  offices  in  Philadelphia ;  the 
Pittsburgh  and  Boston,  Northwestern,  North  American,  Iron  City, 
Eureka,  Ohio  Trap  Rock,  Colling,  Ohio,  Aztec,  Adventure,  Ridge,  and 
Fire-Steel — twelve,  having  their  offices  at  Pittsburg;  the  Minnesota, 
Norwich,  Wheal  Kate,  Albion,  and  Forest — five,  with  their  offices  in  New 
York  ;  the  Copper  Falls,  Phoenix,  Winthrop,  Dana,  Douglass  Houghton, 
Quincy,  Alcomah,  Farm,  and   Toltec — nine  with  their  offices  in  Boston. 

The  belt  of  the  trap  rocks  on  Keweenaw  point  is  3  miles  in  width, 
in  its  narrowest  part,  7  miles  in  its  widest.  It  underlies  7  townships, 
or,  more  exactly,  217  sections  of  land,  between  Portage  lake  and  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  promotory.  It  is  exceedingly  rich  in  copper  and  silver. 
The  country  is  broken,  hilly,  and  irregular,  and  very  much  cut  up  by  the 
streams.  The  soil  is  represented  to  be  of  an  excellent  quality — warm  and 
fertile,  as  trappean  soils  generally  are ;  and  is  covered  with  a  heavy  growth 
of  hard- wood  forest  trees  with  some  soft-wood.  The  forests  are  more  open 
than  those  on  the  adjacent  sandstone  rocks,  and  the  timber  is  more  thrifty. 
The  appearance  of  the  trap-rock  is  quite  singular;  for  the  melted  mass, 
when  it  was  forced  up  from  below,  did  not  burst  out  in  circular  spaces,  or 
through  cylindrical  chimneys,  like  lava  eruptions  of  modern  times ;  but 
intruded  itself  through  chasms  and  fractures  of  the  superincumbent 
jocks,  frequently  overflowing  them,  and  spreading  out  between  the  strata, 
and  existing  as  intervening  masses,  or  beds. 

At  the  Lake  Superior  Company's  mines,  shaft  number  2,  passing 
into  the  western  side  of  the  vein,  was  .very  rich  in  copper  and  silver  at 
the  surface,  where  it  immediately  bordered  upon  the  leader,  and  impover- 
ished as  it  left  it  in  descending.  So,  after  working  downward,  for  a 
time,  through  barren  rock,  "  the  miners  sent  off  a  level  toward  the  river, 
with  the  intention  of  striking  the  vein  under  the  stream;  but,  to  their 
great  surprise,  opened  into  a  deep  and  wide  ravine,  or  ancient  channel 
of  the  river,  filled  with  great  masses  of  copper,  lumps  of  copper  and 
^silver  mixed,  small  globules  of  pure  silver — all  rounded  and  worn  by  the 
action  of  running  water,  and  mixed  with  sand,  gravel,  and  pebbles.  A 
single  mass  of  silver  was  obtained  from  this  ravine,  which  weighed  more 
than  six  pounds,  and  was  worth  $130.  That  lump  of  siver  is  now  in  the 
cabinet  of  the  United  States  Mint,  at  Philadelphia.  Masses  of  copper 
were  also  found  in  that  ravine,  weighing  1,000  pounds.  These  were 
exported  to*  France. 


REGION  OF  LAKE  SUrERIOR.  545 

The  Cliff  Mine,  belonging  to  the  Boston  and  Pittsburg  Mining  Com- 
pany, is  situated  on  the  south-west  branch  of  Eagle  river,  3  miles 
from  the  office  of  the  Lake  Superior  Company.  "The  Cliff  Mine," 
Bays  Mr.  Jackson,  United  States  geologist,  "is  one  of  the  most  remarka- 
ble known,  for  the  enormous  masses  of  native  copper  it  contains.  One 
of  the  masses,  now  got  out,  is  estimated  at  50  tons  weight.  It  is  cu 
by  means  of  steel,  chisels,  driven  by  blows  of  a  heavy  sledge-hammer- 
one  man  holding  the  chisel,  while  the  other  strikes  with  the  sledge;  a 
groove  is  mortised  out  across  the  mass  of  copper;  and  then  a  series  of 
ribbons  of  it,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  are  cut  out,  until  the 
channel  thus  mortised  divides  the  mass.  The  copper  is  perfectly  mal- 
leable and  ductile,  and  is  very  tough.  The  masses  of  solid  copper  are 
very  pure,  and  ought  to  yield  more  than  ninety  per  cent,  of  refined  metal." 

To  get  out  such  huge  masses  of  copper,  a  place  is  sought  in  the  shaft 
where  "a  hole  may  be  bored  into  the  rock,  and  then  firing  a  heavy  blast. 
This  starts  the  copper  from  the  wall  of  rock,  and  sometimes  removes  it 
entirely.  It  is  then  cut  up  with  chisels.  This  vein  varies  from  two  to 
four  feet  in  width,  and  increases  in  width  and  richness  as  it  descends  in 
the  rock.  The  hight  of  the  cliff  in  which  this  vein  is  seen,  is  nearly 
300  feet,  and  the  upper  exposure  of  the  veins,  213  feet.  The  top 
of  the  cliff  is  700  feet  above  Lake  Superior. 

At  the  Copper  Falls  mines,  about  200  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
lake,  the  shafts  descend  perpendicularly  into  the  rock  nearly  to  that 
depth.  There  is  a  vein  of  solid  copper.  The  sheets  of  copper  are  of 
amazing  dimensions.  Mr.  Jackson  says:  "One  of  the  masses  of  copper 
got  out  was  20  feet  long,  9  feet  wide,  and  from  4  to  6  inches  thick, 
and  weighed,  by  estimation,  10  tons."  The  Copper  Falls  mines  are 
exceedingly  rich  in  silver.  In  many  parts  of  the  vein,  from  325  to  $100 
worth  of  silver  is  contained  in  100  weight  of  rock.  Mr.  Jackson  analyzed 
a  rich  specimen,  which  yielded  5  ounces  of  silver  to  6  pounds  of  vein- 
stone. 

The  largest  mass  of  copper  that  has  yet  been  removed,  was  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  Cliff  Mine,  and  was  estimated  to  weigh  80  tons.  It  was 
pure  copper,  having  a  density  equal  to  that  of  the  hammered  copper  of  com- 
merce, aud  much  tougher  than  that  which  is  obtained  by  artificial  smelting. 

The  great  national  value  of  the  copper  mines  of  Lake  Superior  will  be 
seen  by  comparing  their  capability  for  the  production  of  metal  with  other 
copper  mines  in  different  parts  of  the  earth.  The  following  table  exhibits 
the  foreign  mines,  together  with  the  annual  yield  of  metal. 

Sweden i.000  ton8 

Russia 2,000     " 

Hungary 2,000     « 

Hartz  mountains 212 

East  Germany 143 

Hesse 500    « 

Norway 7,200     « 

United  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain onn 

Mexico 200 

The    principal    landing-place  on   Keweenaw   point,   to  get  access  to 


546  REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 

the  mines,  is  Eagle  harbor.  The  village  occupies  a  beautiful  site.  The 
houses  are  built  on  the  rising  ground,  in  a  magnificent  grove  of  Norwe- 
gian pines.  The  harbor  is  a  fraction  less  than  a  mile  wide ;  the  greatest 
depth  of  water,  100  feet;  depth  on  the  bar,  10  feet;  and  there  it  can 
be  easily  deepened  to  16  feet,  by  blasting  away  the  rocks.  This 
ought  to  be  done  for  the  safety  of  loaded  steamboats,  which  frequently 
take  shelter  in  the  bay. 

The  Superior  country  is  quite  destitute  of  game;  but  the  waters 
abound  in  fish  of  the  choicest  kinds.  The  streams  throughout  the  iron 
region  are  alive  with  speckled  trout.  The  lake  fisheries  will  one  day 
rival  those  of  the  ocean,  both  in  extent  and  value.  IsleRoyale  is  a  favorite 
place  of  resort  for  fishermen,  who  take  there  great  numbers  of  the  sisko- 
wit — the  fattest  and  finest  variety  of  the  lake-trout  family  •  also,  lake- 
trout  and  whitefish.  The  siskowit  has  been  known  to  attain  to  the 
weight  of  25  pounds;  and  the  lake-trout,  50  pounds.  The  sis- 
kowit has  only  to  become  introduced  into  the  eastern  market,  to  take 
the  place  of  all  other  fish,  as  a  delicacy  for  the  table  of  the  epicure. 
The  capability  of  the  fisheries  of  the  Superior  country  may  be  estimated 
by  the  quantities  taken  at  one  place,  near  Mackinaw,  at  which  10,000 
barrels  are  packed  annually.  The  preparations  for  packing  are 
very  simple.  After  being  cleaned,  the  fish  are  laid,  with  the  scales 
on,  upon  broad  benches,  and  salted;  then  thrown  into  a  box,  or  crate, 
with  a  grating  at  the  bottom  to  drain.  Sometimes  a  common  wagon- 
wheel  is  used,  suspended  by  a  rod  passing  through  the  hub ;  the  water 
passes  off  from  the  fish,  between  the  spokes.  After  draining,  the  pack- 
ing commences.  Fish  are  important  articles  of  food  at  the  mines,  and 
will  continue  to  become  more  valuable  as  the  business  of  minino-  in- 
creases. 

The  Superior  country  is  a  healthy  country;  but  the  climate  is  too 
cold  and  forbidding,  and  the  winters  too  long,  to  attract  emigrants,  who 
prefer  to  cultivate  the  soil.  In  July,  the  days  are  very  warm ;  the  nights 
however,  are  cool.  The  changes  in  the  temperature  are  very  sudden  and 
very  great.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  the  thermometer,  to  fall  forty 
degrees  in  twenty-four  hours.  Frosts  occur  about  the  10  of  Septem- 
ber, sufficient  to  kill  all  vegetation.  The  snows  attain  to  the  depth  of  6 
feet,  and  remain  to  the  last  of  May.  Winter  sets  in  early  in  October. 
During  the  fall  months  there  are  frequent  and  terrible  gales  of  wind,  and 
Storms  of  rain  and  snow. 

The  Superior  country  will  one  day  be  erected  into  a  Territory  by  itself, 
or  admitted  as  a  State.  It  will  be,  for  all  time,  not  only  a  mine  of  wealth 
to  the  Union,  but  also  a  nursery  of  a  tough,  hardy,  and  energetic  race 
of  men.  The  full  development  of  its  vast  resources  would  require  a 
population  that  will  make  it  the  great  northern  hive  of  America. — Ferris. 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  547 


THE   EOCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


This  chain  commences  in  New  Mexico,  in  about  32°  30'  north  lati- 
tude, near  Fort  Webster;  it  extends  nearly  north-north-west  throughout 
the  north  portion  of  the  continent  to  the  Polar  ocean,  terminating  west 
of  the  mouth  of  Mackenzie's  river,  in  latitude  69°  north,  longitude  135° 
west.  This  range,  in  connection  with  the  Andes,  of  which  it  'may  be 
said  to  be  a  continuation,  forms  the  longest,  and,  according  to  Hum- 
boldt, the  most  uniform  chain  of  mountains  on  the  globe.  Somewhat 
more  than  half  of  the  entire  chain  belongs  to  North  America;  the 
name,  Rocky  mountains,  being  usually  applied  to  that  portion  only 
which  is  comprised  withiu  the  United  States  and  British  America, 
although  the  exact  limit  of  this  mountain  range  toward  the  south  can 
scarcely  be  said  to  be  determined.  The  entire  length,  however,  of  the 
chain,  following  the  windings,  may  be  stated  in  round  numbers  at  3,000 
miles.  The  east  boundary  of  the  Rocky  mountains  in  latitude  38° 
north,  is  in  107°  20' west  longitude;  in  latitude  40°  north,  108°  30' 
west  longitude;  latitude  63°  north,  12-4°  40'  west  longitude;  latitude 
68°  north,  130  30'  west  longitude.  Notwithstanding  this  general 
tending  to  the  west,  the  continent  widens  so  much  more  in  the  same 
direction,  that  this  chain,  which  in  South  and  Central  America,  and 
Mexico,  is  comparatively  a  coast  range,  is  several  hundred  leagues 
inland  in  the  United  States  and  British  America.  The  highest  known 
peaks  in  the  United  States  are  Fremont's,  13,570  feet;  and  Pike's 
peak,  11,497  feet  high;  and  Mount  Brown  and  Mount  Hooker,  in 
British  America,  near  53°  north  latitude,  the  former  about  16,000,  and 
the  latter  15,690  feet  above  the  sea-level.  We  are  very  imperfectly 
acquainted  with  this  system  of  mountains ;  the  general  altitude  of  the 
range,  however,  is  supposed  to  vary  from  10,000  to  14,000  feet;  the 
Bev.  Mr.  Parker  states  that  peaks  have  been  measured  of  IS, 000  feet  in 
elevation.  The  east  slope  of  the  Rocky  mountains  is  remarkable  for  its 
gradual  declination.  The  ascent  from  Fort  Leavenworth,  in  latitude 
39°  21'  north,  and  longitude  94°  44'  west,  to  the  South  pass,  (the 
great  highway  from  Missouri  to  Utah  and  Oregou,)  in  latitude  about 
42°  30'  north,  and  longitude  109°  30'  west,  is  a  little  more  than  6,000 
feet  in  a  distance  of  932  miles  by  the  usual  route.  The  elevation  of 
the  South  pass,  which  is  a  remarkable  depression  in  the  principal  chain 
from  about  15  to  20  miles  wide,  is  about  7,500  feet  above  the  sea. 
This  rise,  as  might  be  inferred  from  what  has  been  said  above,  is  exceed- 
ingly gentle;  so  much  so,  indeed,  that  the  ascent  is  almost  imperceptible 
by  any  except  a  scientific  observer. 

Branches. — The  following  notice  of  the  ramifications  of  the  Rocky 
mountains   is   condensed   from   Humboldt's   "Aspects  of    Nature:" — 


548  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 

"From  about  latitude  22°  north,  the  Cordillera  of  Anahuac  divides  into 
3  chains.  1.  The  east  chain,  that  of  Potosi  and  Texas,  is  contin- 
ued northward  into  Arkansas  and  Missouri,  under  the  name  of  Ozark 
mountains;  thence  by  a  succession  of  hills  through  Wisconsin  to  Lake 
Superior.  2.  The  central  chain  of  Durango  and  New  Mexico,  taking 
the  name  of  Rocky  mountains.  From  this  chain  an  important  branch 
(called  the  Black  hills)  detaches  itself  in  about  40°  north  latitude,  and 
extends  at  first  nearly  east,  and  then  north,  forming  the  dividing  ridge 
between  the  tributaries  of  the  Yellowstone  and  those  of  the  Missouri  on 
the  east,  and  the  tributaries  of  the  Platte  on  the  south,  spreading  out 
in  the  highlands  of  Nebraska  and  Minnesota,  where  they  constitute  the 
watershed  between  the  streams  which  flow  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and 
those  flowing  to  the  Polar  sea.  The  highest  known  summit  of  this 
branch  is  about  8,000  feet  above  the  sea.  3.  The  west  range  passes 
through  Ciualoa  and  Sonora,  being  linked  by  spurs  with  the  mountains 
of  California."  On  each  side  of  the  Rio  Grande,  in  New  Mexico,  there 
are  several  parallel  ridges,  with  the  same  general  course  as  the  central 
ridge,  taking  the  local  names  of  Sierra  Blanca,  Sacramento  mountains, 
Organ  mountains,  etc.  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  and  San  Juan,  Jemez 
mountains,  Zufii  mountains,  etc.  on  the  west.  This  plan  of  local  naming 
continues  throughout  the  chain,  which  is  in  fact  a  system  rather  than  a 
range  of  mountains. 

Plateaus,  etc. — Between  the  highest  ridge  of  the  Rocky  mountains 
on  the  east,  and  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  Cascade  range  on  the  west,  is  a 
vast  region  of  table  land,  which  in  its  widest  part  extends  through  14 
degrees  of  longitude :  that  is,  about  700  miles  from  east  to  west.  Hum- 
boldt, in  his  "Aspects  of  Nature,"  (edition  of  1849,)  already  alluded  to, 
observes  that  the  Rocky  mountains  between  37°  and  43°  present  lofty 
plains,  of  an  extent  hardly  met  with  in  any  other  part  of  the  globe; 
having  a  breadth  from  east  to  west  twice  as  great  as  the  plateaus  of 
Mexico.  In  the  west  part  of  the  great  central  plateaus  above  described, 
lies  the  Great  basin,  otherwise  called  Fremont's  basin,  from  its  having  been 
first  explored  by  Colonel  Fremont.  It  is  situated  between  Sierra  Neva- 
da and  Wahsatch  mountains,  and  is  bounded  on  every  side  with  high 
hills  or  mountains.  It  is  about  500  miles  in  extent,  from  east  to  west, 
and  c!50  from  north  to  south.  Only  a  part  of  it  has  been  thoroughly 
explored;  it  is,  however,  known  to  contain  a  number  of  lakes  and  rivers, 
none  of  whose  waters  ever  reach  the  ocean,  being  probably  taken  up  by 
evaporation,  or  lost  in  the  sand  of  the  more  arid  districts.  As  far  as 
known,  the  lakes  of  this  basin  are  salt,  except  Utah  lake.  The  largest 
of  these,  the  Great  Salt  lake,  is  filled  with  a  saturated  solution  of 
common  salt;  it  has  an  elevation  of  4,200  feet  above  the  sea. 

Passes. — Probably  no  mountains  of  the  same  altitude  can  be  so 
readily  traversed  as  the  Rocky  mountain  chain,  owing  to  the  great 
breadth  of  its  base,  and  its  gentle  acclivity.  Among  the  most  remarka- 
ble of  the  numerous  passes  may  be  mentioned  that  leading  from  the 
head-waters  of  the  Athabasca  to  those  of  the  Columbia,  between  Mount 
Brown  and  Mount  Hooker,  and  called  the  Athabasca  portage;  it  has  a 
a  hight  of  7,300  feet,  and  has  only  been  used  by  the  traders  of  the 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  549 

Hudson  Bay  Company,  as  the  principal  pass  into  the  basin  of  Columbia; 
Cadot's  pass,  near  the  north  boundary  of  the  United  States;  the  well- 
known  South  pass,  already  alluded  to;  the  old  Santa  Fe  trail  from 
Independence  to  the  town  of  Santa  Fe,  and  the  El  Paso  route  in  the 
south  of  New  Mexico.  Governor  Stevens  of  Washington  Territory,  says 
of  that  portion  about  the  sources  of  the  Missouri,  "that  it  is  broken  into 
spurs,  and  filled  with  valleys,  furnishing  several  good  passes  much 
lower  than  the  celebrated  South  pass,  one  by  barometric  measurement, 
1,500  feet  lower."  Fremont,  in  the  winter  of  1853— '54,  explored  a  route 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  to  the  pass  of  the  Huerfano  river, 
through  the  Sierra  Blanca,  in  New  Mexico,  thence  across  the  valley  of 
San  Luis,  up  that  of  Sah-watch,  through  the  Central  Chain  of  the 
Rocky  mountains  by  the  Coocha-too-pe  pass. 

Much  attention  has  recently  been  directed  toward  ascertaining  the 
most  suitable  passes  across  the  Rocky  mountains,  with  a  view  to  the 
location  of  the  contemplated  Pacific  railroad.  For  the  following  impor- 
tant items  of  information,  we  are  indebted  to  the  courtesy  of  Henry  V. 
Poor,  Esq.,  the  able  editor  of  the  American  Railroad  Journal: — "The 
proposed  northern  route  for  the  Pacific  railroad  would  cross  the  Rocky 
mountains  near  the  sources  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  about  G,000  feet  above  the  sea;  the  elevation  of  the  summit  of 
the  South  pass  is  7,490  feet;  the  Bear  Mountain  summit,  1,000  feet 
higher;  the  Central  route  would  cross  by  the  Coocha-too-pe  pass,  in 
latitude  38°,  at  an  elevation  of  11,0S2  feet,  or  by  the  Sangre  de  Christo 
pass,  at  8,800  feet;  the  Southern  route,  proposed  to  cross  near  the  32d 
parallel  of  north  latitude,  would  traverse  the  great  plateau  where  an 
interval  seems  to  occur  between  the  termination  of  the  Sierra  Madre  and 
the  commencement  of  the  Rocky  mountains  proper,  at  an  elevation, 
probably,  no  where  greater  than  5,000  feet."  (See  Bulletin  of  the 
New  York  Geographical  Society,  art.  V.  1854.) 

Amid  the  valleys  and  gorges  of  this  stupendous  system  of  mountains, 
some  of  the  largest  rivers  of  the  globe  have  their  birth.  Of  these,  the 
Athabasca,  Peace,  and  Mackenzies  find  their  outlet  in  the  Polar  sea; 
the  Saskatchawau  in  the  Atlantic,  though  Hudson's  bay;  the  Missouri 
and  its  many  tributaries,  the  Platte,  Arkansas,  and  Red  rivers,  gliding 
gently  down  its  long  eastern  slopes,  find  an  exit  in  the  Mississippi,  and 
thence  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico;  while  the  Rio  Del  Norte,  the  Colorado, 
and  the  Columbia,  (with  Lewis  river,  its  principal  tributary,  forming  in 
itself  a  mighty  stream,)  take  opposite  directions;  the  first  through  the 
valley  of  New  Mexico  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico;  the  second  through  the 
deserts  of  Utah  and  the  western  part  of  New  Mexico  to  the  Gulf  of 
California;  while  the  last,  from  the  north,  bursting  through  the  Cascade 
and  coast  ranges,  rushes  to  join  the  mighty  Pacific,  bearing  the  only 
waters  that  reach  that  ocean  directly  from  this  range.  Erman  observes, 
"that  it  is  remarkable,  that  if  an  arch  of  a  great  circle  were  prolonged 
from  the  Aldan  mountains  in  Siberia,  it  would  pass  through  the  princi- 
pal peaks  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  between  40°  and  55°  north  latitude. 

Geology. — Of  the  geological  structure  of  the  Rocky  mountains  as 
yet  very  little  is  known.     The  highest  parts  visited  by  Fremont  were 


550  WISCONSIN. 

composed  of  rocks  of  granite  and  gneiss,  shooting  up  into  sharp  and 
jagged  peaks.  Volcanic  rocks  are  known  to  exist  in  many  places  on 
the  slopes  or  sides  of  these  mountains.  According  to  the  most  recent 
reports  there  is,  between  the  head  of  the  Madison  river  and  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Yellowstone,  a  volcanic  region  of  perhaps  100  square  miles 
n  extent,  in  which  some  of  the  volcanoes  are  said  to  have  lately  been  in 
a  state  of  eruption.  Hot  springs  are  found  not  only  in  this  region  but 
in  various  other  places  on  the  east  and  west  declivities  of  the  Rocky 
mountain  range.  Near  42°  37'  north  latitude,  and  1110  45'  west  lon- 
gitude, there  are  a  number  of  fountains,  the  waters  of  which  effervesce 
with  the  carbonic  acid  that  they  contain.  From  this  circumstance 
they  have  received  the  name  of  "Beer,  or  Soda  Springs."  The  most 
remarkable  of  these  throws  up  a  jet  d'eau  of  about  3  feet  high, 
accompanied  with  a  subterraneous  noise,  which,  together  with  the 
rushing  of  the  water,  resembles  the  sound  of  a  steamboat  in  motion, 
whence  it  has  been  termed  the  "Steamboat  Spring." — Fremont. 


WISCONSIN. 


This  State  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Minnesota,  Lake  Superior,  and 
the  northern  peninsula  of  Michigan,  (from  which  it  is  separated  in  part 
by  the  Menomonee  and  Montreal  rivers,)  on  the  east  by  Lake  Michigan, 
south  by  Illinois,  and  west  by  Iowa  and  Minnesota  Territory,  from  the 
former  of  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Mississippi,  and  from  the  latter 
(in  part)  by  the  St.  Croix  river.  It  lies  between  42°  30'  and  46°  55' 
north  latitude,  (if  we  exclude  some  small  islands  belonging  to  the  State 
in  Lake  Superior,)  and  between  87°  and  92°  50'  west  longitude,  being 
about  285  miles  in  extreme  length  from  north  to  south,  and  about  255 
in  its  greatest  breadth  from  east  to  west,  including  an  area  of  about 
53,924  square  miles,  or  34,511,360  acres,  of  which  1,045,499  were  im- 
proved in  1850. 

Face  op  the  Country. — Wisconsin  may  be  described  generally  as  an 
elevated  rolling  prairie,  from  600  to  1,200  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  The  highest  portion  of  this  plateau  is  on  the  north,  and  forms  the 
dividing  ridge  between  the  waters  flowing  south-west  into  the  Mississippi, 
and  those  flowing  north  into  Lake  Superior.  The  southern  slope  is  again 
interrupted  about  the  middle  of  the  State  by  another  ridge,  giving  origin 


WISCONSIN.  551 

to  a  second  slope,  drained  by  Rock  river  and  its  brancnes.  This  State 
has  no  mountains,  properly  so  called.  The  descent  toward  Lake  Supe- 
rior is  very  abrupt,  and  the  rivers  full  of  rapids  and  falls,  which  inter- 
rupt navigation  but  afford  valuable  mill-sites.  There  is  a  third  ridge  or 
elevation  in  the  south-east,  dividing  the  water-courses  of  Lake  Michigan 
from  those  of  Green  bay.  Just  below  the  second  ridge,  a  depres.-ion 
crosses  the  State,  forming  the  bed  of  the  Neenah  or  Fox  river,  and  the 
Lower  Wisconsin.  When  the  rivers  are  unusually  full,  these  actually 
communicate,  though  running  in  opposite  directions,  the  one  to  the 
Mississippi,  and  the  other  to  Lake  Michigan. 

Geology. — Limestone  underlies  most  of  the  southern  part  of  the 
State — the  cliff  limestone  in  the  mineral  districts,  and  the  blue  elsewhere. 
The  northern  part  seems  to  be  composed  of  primitive  rocks,  for  the  most 
part  of  granite,  slate,  and  sandstone.  Commencing  a  little  south  of  the 
Wisconsin,  and  along  the  Mississippi,  as  far  back  as  the  falls  of  its  trib- 
utaries, sandstone,  between  layers  of  limestone,  is  the  prevailing  rock, 
and  forms  the  cliffs  on  the  Mississippi,  below  St.  Anthony's  falls,  for  35 
miles.  The  rivers  in  this  region  are  much  obstructed  by  shifting  beds 
of  this  sand.  From  Lake  Michigan  westward  to  the  other  sections 
named,  is  a  limestone  region,  in  many  parts  well  timbered,  while  in 
others  a  considerable  portion  is  prairie.  Underlying  the  blue  limestone 
is  a  brown  sandstone,  which  crops  out  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  but  no 
lead  has  ever  been  found  in  it.  A  section  through  the  Blue  mound  would 
give  the  following  result,  descending  vertically:  Hornstone,  410  feet; 
magnesian  lime,  or  lead-bearing  rock,  159  feet;  saccharoid  sandstone, 
40  feet;  sandstone,  3  feet;  lower  limestone,  (at  the  level  of  the  Wis- 
consin,) 190  feet.  The  elevations  of  different  parts  of  the  southern  sec- 
tion of  the  State  are  given  by  Chancellor  Lathrop,  at  Blue  mounds,  1,170; 
head  waters  of  the  Bock  river,  316 ;  egress  of  the  same  river  from  the 
State,  128,  and  the  portage  between  the  Fox  and  Wisconsin  rivers,  at 
223  feet  above  the  level  of  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Wisconsin  river. 

Following  the  map  accompanying  the  geological  work  of  Professor 
Owen,  on  the  States  of  Iowa  and  Wisconsin,  and  the  Territory  of  Minne- 
sota, we  should  say  that  about  half  the  northern  part  of  the  State  of 
Wisconsin,  resting  on  Lake  Superior,  and  having  its  apex  near  the  44th 
degree  of  north  latitude,  and  about  the  middle  of  the  State,  (taken  in  an 
east  and  west  direction,)  is  covered  by  drift,  overlaying  the  Potsdam 
sandstone  of  New  York,  and  metamorphic  strata,  with  occasional  protru- 
sions of  granite  and  other  igneous  rocks.  Beyond  this  triangle,  on  the 
south-east  and  south-west,  the  sandstone  conies  to  the  surface  in  a  broad 
belt,  having  between  it  and  the  Mississippi,  (from  the  St.  Croix  to  the 
Wisconsin  river,)  a  second  belt  of  lower  magnesian  limestone,  with  the 
sandstone  occasionally  laid  bare  in  the  valleys  of  the  streams.  This 
same  formation  is  continued  on  the  south,  (following  the  Wisconsin  river  on 
both  sides,)  and  on  the  east,  coasting  the  sandstone  belt  to  its  full  extent. 
The  limestone  is  followed  in  turn  by  another  zone  of  white  sandstone, 
containing  beds  of  shells.  Next  succeeds  the  lead-bearing  group  of 
upper  magnesian  limestone,  extending  into  Illinois  and  Iowa  on  the  south 
and  west,  and  on  the  east  running  up  into  the  peninsula  formed  by  Green 


552  Wisconsin. 

bay  and  Lake  Michigan,  having  a  triangle  of  the  Niagara  limestone 
between  it  and  Lake  Michigan  on  the  south-east.  On  the  shores  of  Lake 
Superior  are  two  beds  of  red  clay  and  marl,  separated  by  ridges  of  drift 
from  300  to  600  feet  high.  East  of  this,  and  just  where  the  northern 
boundary  leaves  the  lake,  parallel  groups  of  conglomerate  red  sandstone 
and  slates,  trap,  and  metamorphic  slates,  with  beds  of  magnetic  iron  ore, 
granite,  and  quartzose  rocks  come  to  the  surface. 

Minerals. — Part  of  the  great  lead  region  extending  from  Illinois  and 
Iowa  is  included  in  the  south-west  part  of  Wisconsin,  and  occupies  an 
area  of  nearly  2,880  square  miles,  about  three-fourths  of  which  is  in  the 
last-named  State.  This  portion  is  no  less  rich  in  the  quantity  and 
quality  of  its  ore,  than  in  the  other  States  where  it  lies.  The  land  is 
here  intermingled  with  copper  and  zinc,  the  latter  in  large  quantities, 
together  with  some  silver.  In  Lapointe,  Chippewa,  St.  Croix,  and  Iowa 
counties,  copper  is  also  found;  in  Dodge  county,  "at  the  so  called  Iron 
ridge,  is  the  most  promising  locality  of  iron  ore  in  the  State  yet  disco- 
vered ;"  but  on  the  Black  river  and  other  branches  of  the  Mississippi, 
good  iron  ore  occurs.  The  iron  ores  of  Lake  Superior  region  extend  from 
Michigan  into  this  State,  in  abundant  deposits  of  the  richest  quality. 
The  other  metallic  substances  are  magnetic  iron,  iron  pyrites,  and 
graphite  or  plumbago.  The  non-metallic  earths  are  agate,  cornelians, 
(found  on  the  shores  of  the  small  lakes,)  bitumen,  peat,  (which  being  in 
a  region  poorly  supplied  with  fuel,  may  hereafter  become  valuable  as  a 
substitute  for  coal ;)  marble  of  fine  quality,  lime,  quartz,  some  gypsum, 
saltpetre,  sulphates  of  barytes,  porphyry,  and  coal  in  small  quantities. 
A  vain  of  copper  ore  was  discovered  in  1848,  near  the  Kickapoo  river, 
which  yields  about  20  per  cent,  of  copper,  but  to  what  extent  the  bed 
runs  has  not  been  ascertained.  Mines  were  also  worked  at  the  falls  of 
Black  river,  and  in  its  vicinity,  but  they  have  been  abandoned.  Facts 
do  not  justify  any  expectation  of  great  deposits  of  copper  in  the  north- 
western part  of  the  State.  A  great  bed  of  magnetic  iron  ore  lies  south 
of  Lake  Superior,  near  Tyler's  fork  of  the  Bad  river,  in  strata  of  meta- 
morphic slate.  In  1850,  569,921  pigs  of  lead  were  shipped  from  Dubuque 
and  Mineral  point,  but  778,460  in  1845.  Beautiful  varieties  of  marble 
have  been  recently  discovered  or  made  known  to  the  public  in  the  north 
part  of  Wisconsin.  According  to  Messrs.  Foster  and  Whitney's  report, 
they  are  found  on  the  Michigamig  and  Menomonee  rivers,  and  afford 
beautiful  marbles,  whose  prevailing  color  is  light  pink,  traversed  by  veins 
or  seams  of  deep  red.  Others  are  blue  and  dove  colored,  beautifully 
veined.  These  are  susceptible  of  a  fine  polish,  and  some  on  the  Meno- 
monee are  within  navigable  distance  from  New  York. 

Lakes  and  Bivers. — Beside  the  great  Lakes  Superior  and  Michigan, 
which  lave  its  northern  and  eastern  shores,  Wisconsin  has  a  number  of 
small  lakes.  The  principal  of  these  is  Lake  Winnebago,  south-east  of 
the  middle  of  the  State.  It  is  about  28  miles  long  and  10  miles  wide, 
and  communicates  with  Green  bay,  (a  north-west  arm  of  Lake  Michigan,) 
through  the  Fox  or  Neenah  river.  These  small  lakes  are  most  abundant 
in  the  north-west,  and  are  generally  characterized  by  clear  water  and 
gravelly  bottoms,  often  with  bold  picturesque  shores,  crowned  with  hem- 


Wisconsin.  553 

lock,  spruce,  and  other  trees.  They  afford  excellent  fish.  In  the  shallow 
waters  on  the  margins  of  some  of  them  grows  wild  rice,  an  impcrtan* 
article  of  food  with  the  savages  of  this  region.  The  rivers  which  traverse 
the  interior,  flow  generally  in  a  south-west  direction,  and  discharge  their 
waters  into  the  Mississippi.  The  latter  river  runs  along  the  south-west 
border  of  Wisconsin  for  more  than  200  miles.  Commencing  at  the  south, 
we  have,  in  the  following  ordei-,  Wisconsin,  Bad  Axe,  Black  and  Chip- 
pewa rivers.  Of  these  the  most  important  is  the  Wisconsin,  which  has  a 
course  of  probably  200  miles,  almost  directly  south,  when  it  flows  nearly 
west  for  about  100  more.  It  is  navigable  for  steamboats  180  miles.  The 
Chippewa  is  about  200,  and  the  Black  150  miles  long.  The  Bock,  Des 
Raines,  and  Fox  river  (of  Illinois)  drain  the  south-east  slope  of  the  State, 
and  pass  off  into  Illinois.  The  Fox  or  Neenah  is  the  outlet  of  Winne- 
bago lake,  and  connects  it  with  Green  Bay.  The  Wolf,  from  the  north, 
is  the  main  feeder  of  the  same  lake.  The  Menomonee,  emptying  into 
Green  Bay,  and  the  Montreal  into  Lake  Superior,  are  rapid  streams, 
which  are  valuable  for  mill-sites.  They  form  part  of  the  north-east  boun- 
dary. The  Menomonee  has  a  descent  of  1,049  feet.  The  St.  Louis, 
(considered  as  the  primary  source  of  the  St.  Lawrence,)  coasts  this  State 
for  20  or  30  miles  on  the  north-west,  and  is  full  of  rapids  and  falls  in 
this  part  of  its  course.  These  rivers  are  not  generally  favorable  to  navi- 
gation without  artificial  aid.  The  Wisconsin  may  be  ascended  by  steam- 
boats to  the  rapids,  where  it  approaches  a  tributary  of  Lake  Winnebago, 
within  a  mile  and  a  half,  where  a  canal  is  being  constructed,  which,  when 
completed,  will  open  an  entire  inland  navigation  from  New  York  to  the 
Upper  Mississippi.  The  Bock  river  is  sometimes  at  high  water  ascended 
by  boats  to  within  the  limits  of  Wisconsin.  The  Bad  Axe,  Black,  Chip- 
pewa, and  St.  Croix  are  important  channels  for  floating  timber  to  market 
from  the  pine  regions  in  the  north-west  of  the  State.  The  rivers  flowing 
into  Lake  Superior  are  small,  and  though  unfavorable  for  commerce,  their 
rapid  courses  make  them  valuable  for  mill-sites.  Colonel  Long  estimates 
that  the  Chippewa,  Black,  Wisconsin,  and  Bock  rivers  are  respectively 
capable  of  a  steamboat  navigation  of  70,  60,  180,  and  250  miles,  but  at 
present  they  are  a  good  deal  obstructed  by  shifting  sands  and  rapids. 

Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists. — Wisconsin,  though  young  in 
political  existence,  is  not  behind  her  sister  States  in  objects  of  interest, 
not  merely  for  the  utilitarian,  but  for  the  lover  of  picturesque,  and  even 
the  antiquary.  Scattered  over  her  undulating  plains  are  found  earth 
works,  modelled  after  the  forms  of  men  and  animals,  that  are  evidently 
the  work  of  a  race  different  from  those  who  possessed  the  country  at  the 
period  of  the  arrival  of  the  Europeans.  At  Aztalan,  in  Jefferson  county, 
is  an  ancient  fortification.  550  yards  long,  275  wide,  with  walls  4  or  5 
feet  high,  and  more  than  20  feet  thick  at  the  base.  Another  work, 
resembling  a  man  in  a  recumbent  position,  120  feet  long  and  30  across 
the  trunk,  is  to  be  seen  near  the  Blue  Mounds ;  and  one  resembling 
a  turtle,  56  feet  in  length,  at  Prairieville.  These  artificial  works  are 
generally  without  order,  but  sometimes  have  a  systematic  arrangement, 
with  fragments  of  pottery  often  scattered  around.  Some  are  so  defaced 
as  to  make  it  difficult  to  trace  the  animal  resemblances  referred  to,  while 


554  WISCONSIN. 

others  are  distinctly  visible.  One  is  said  to  have  been  discovered  near 
Cassville,  resembling  the  extinct  mastodon.  Among  the  most  striking 
natural  objects  are  the  Blue  Mounds,  in  Dane  county,  the  highest  of 
which  has  an  elevation  of  1,170  feet  above  the  Wisconsin,  and  is  a  promi- 
nent landmark  in  this  country  of  prairies.  Platte  and  other  mounds,  in 
the  south-west  of  the  State,  have  various  elevations  of  from  60  to  more 
than  100  feet.  This  State  shares  with  Minnesota  the  beautiful  Lake  Pepin, 
an  expansion  of  the  Mississippi,  mostly  walled  in  by  precipitous  shores, 
which  rise  from  300  to  500  feet  nearly  perpendicular.  These  hights  are 
merely  given  as  examples,  not  as  the  only  ones  there  are.  Almost  all  the 
rivers  of  Wisconsin  abound  in  rapids  and  falls.  The  most  remarkable 
of  these  are  a  series  of  cascades,  or  cataracts,  in  the  St.  Louis  river,  which 
have  a  descent  of  320  feet  in  16  miles,  terminating  about  20  miles  from 
its  mouth.  Quinnessec  falls,  in  the  Menomonee  river,  have  one  perpen- 
dicular pitch  of  40  feet,  and  an  entire  descent  of  134  feet  in  one  mile  and 
a  half,  besides  several  other  rapids,  where  the  river  tosses  and  dashes 
through  narrow  and  tortuous  denies.  Among  the  other  falls,  are  St.  Croix, 
Chippewa,  and  Big  Bull  falls  in  the  Wisconsin.  The  river  bluffs  present 
grand  and  picturesque  views  in  many  places,  particularly  at  Mount  Trem- 
pleau,  on  the  Mississippi,  in  La  Cross  county,  where  the  rocks  rise  500 
feet  perpendicularly  above  the  river — in  Richland  county,  on  the  Wiscon- 
sin, where  the  banks  are  from  150  to  200  feet  high — and  in  Sauk  county, 
where  it  passes  through  a  narrow  gorge  between  cliffs  of  from  400  to  500 
feet  elevation.  Grandfather  Bull  falls,  the  greatest  rapids  in  the  Wiscon- 
sin river,  are  in  about  45°  north  latitude,  and  are  a  series  of  small  cas- 
cades, or  rapids,  breaking  through  a  ridge  of  150  feet  perpendicular 
hight,  for  the  distance  of  one  mile  and  a  half.  In  this  vicinity  are  a 
number  of  chalybeate  springs.  On  the  same  river  near  the  44th  parallel 
of  north  latitude,  is  Petenwell  peak,  an  oval  mass  of  rock,  900  feet  long 
by  300  feet  wide,  and  200  in  elevation  above  the  neighboring  country,  of 
which  it  commands  an  extensive  view.  About  70  feet  of  this,  at  the  top, 
is  composed  of  perpendicular  rocks,  split  into  towers,  turrets,  etc.  A  few 
miles  below  this  is  Fortification  rock,  which  rises  to  the  hight  of  100 
feet  or  more  above  the  general  level,  being  perpendicular  on  one  side, 
while  on  the  other  it  descends  by  a  succession  of  terraces  to  the  common 
level.  At  the  Dalles,  the  Wisconsin  'is  compressed  for  5  or  6  miles 
between  red  sandstone  hills,  from  25  feet  to  120  feet  high,  and  an  average 
of  100  feet  asunder.  Between  the  Dalles  and  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
the  bluffs  are  of  every  variety  of  hight  under  400  feet. 

Climate. — The  climate,  though  severe,  and  the  winters  long,  is  more 
regular  and  more  free  from  those  frequent  and  unhealthy  changes  that 
prevail  farther  south.  The  lakes,  too,  exert  a  mitigating  influence,  the 
temperature  being  6j°  higher  on  the  lake  than  on  the  Mississippi  side. 
The  lake  shore  is  also  more  moist,  but  the  State  generally  is  drier  than 
in  the  same  parallels  farther  east.  Prom  records  kept  between  1835  and 
1845,  it  appears  the  Milwaukee  river  was  closed  on  an  average  from 
November  22  to  March  26 ;  and  steamboats  arrived  at  Mineral  Point 
from  February  26  to  April  16,  closing  from  November  16  to  December 
4.     The  diseases  consequent  upon  clearing  lands  are  less  frequent,  it  is 


WISCONSIN.  555 

said,  in  this  than  other  new  States,  owing  to  the  open  nature  of  the 
country  in  the  oak  openings.  The  number  of  deaths  in  1850  were  less 
than  10  in  every  thousand  persons — while  Massachusetts  had  about  20. 

Soil  and  Productions. — The  country  south  of  the  middle  is  a  fine 
agricultural  region,  particularly  that  back  of  Kenosha.  In  the  mineral 
district,  west  of  the  Pekatonica,  the  country  is  broken,  but,  what  is 
unusual  in  mining  tracts,  generally  well  adapted  to  farming,  and  especial- 
ly to  grazing.  But  probably  the  best  agricultural  section  is  that  east  of 
the  Pekatonica,  which  has  more  prairie  land,  though  even  here  is  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  timbered  land  on  the  rivers  and  streams.  The 
agricultural  capabilities  of  the  northern  part  of  the  State,  around  the 
head  waters  of  the  Black  and  Chippewa  rivers,  and  the  sources  of  the 
rivers  emptying  into  Lake  Superior  are  small,  the  surface  in  part  being 
covered  with  drift  and  boulders,  and  partly  with  ponds  and  marshes.  The 
agricultural  staples  of  this  State  are  wheat,  Indian  corn,  oats,  Irish 
potatoes,  butter,  and  live  stock,  besides  considerable  quantities  of  rye, 
wool,  beans,  peas,  barley,  buckwheat,  maple  sugar,  beeswax,  honey,  cheese, 
and  hay,  with  some  sweet  potatoes,  tobacco,  fruits,  wine,  grass-seeds,  hops, 
flax,  and  hemp.  There  were  in  1850,  20,177  farms  in  Wisconsin,  con- 
taining 1,045,499  acres  of  improved  land,  producing  4,286,131  bushels 
of  wheat,  81,253  of  rye;  3,414,672  of  oats;  1,988,979  of  Indian  corn; 
1,402,770  of  Irish  potatoes;  209,692  of  barley;  79,878  of  buckwheat; 
20,657  peas  and  beans;  3,633,750  pounds  of  butter;  400,283  of  cheese; 
610,976  of  maple  sugar;  253,963  of  wool;  68,393  of  flax;  131,005  of 
beeswax  and  honey;  272,622  tons  of  hay.  Live  stock,  valued  at 
64,897,385;  slaughtered  animals,  at  $920,178;  orchard  products,  at 
§4,823,  and  products  of  market  gardens,  at  §32,142. 

Forest  Trees. — There  are  vast  forests  of  pine  on  the  Upper  Wis- 
consin, the  Wolf  river,  and  the  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi,  north  of 
the  Wisconsin.  The  other  forest  trees  are  spruce,  tamarac,  cedar,  oak 
of  different  species,  birch,  aspen,  basswood,  hickory,  elm,  ash,  hemlock, 
poplar,  sycamore,  and  sugar-maple;  but  forests  such  as  are  seen  in 
Pennsylvania  and  New  York  occur  only  in  a  small  portion  of  the  Rock 
river  valley,  and  in  a  narrow  border  on  Lake  Michigan.  The  oak  openings 
already  described  form  a  pleasing  feature  in  the  landscapes  of  Wisconsin. 

Animals. — The  wild  animals  are  black  bears,  prairie  wolves,  gray 
wolves,  foxes,  woodchucks,  and  the  gopher,  which  is  found  only  on  the 
west  side,  near  the  Mississippi  river.  The  last-named  animal  is  very 
destructive  to  the  roots  of  fruit  trees. 

Manufactures. — This  youthful  State  has  not  yet  had  time  (nor  is  it 
yet  her  most  profitable  resource)  to  test  her  manufacturing  capabilities. 
In  1850  there  were  1,262  establishments,  each  producing  §500  and 
upward  annually,  engaged  in  manufactures,  mining,  and  the  mechanic 
arts,  employing  an  aggregate  capital  of  §3,382,148,  and  5,798  male,  and 
291  female  hands;  consuming  raw  material  worth  §5,414,931,  and  yield- 
ing products  valued  at  §9,293,068  ;  of  which  16,  with  a  capital  of  §131,350, 
and  employing  288  male  hands,  were  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of 
iron,  consuming  raw  material  worth  §95,186,  and  producing  4,343  tons 
of  pig  iron,  castings,  etc.,  valued  at  §243,195;  and  nine  woolen  manu* 


556  Wisconsin. 

factories,  employing  $31,225  capital,  and  25  male  hands,  consuming  raw 
material  worth  $32,630,  and  producing  87,902  yards  of  stuff,  and  74,350 
pounds  of  yarn,  worth  a  total  value  of  $87,992 ;  and  $98,700  invested 
in  manufacturing  malt  and  spirituous  liquors,  consuming  91,020  hushels 
of  barlcv,  29,000  of  Indian  corn,  9,200  of  rye,  and  28  tons  of  hops,  and 
producing  127,000  gallons  of  whisky,  etc.,  and  31,320  barrels  of  ale 
beer,  etc.  Home-made  manufactures  were  produced  worth  $43,624,  and 
family  goods  valued  at  $12,567.  The  numerous  rivers  and  streams  of 
Wisconsin,  with  their  frequent  rapids  and  falls,  afford  great  facilities  for 
mill-sites  of  every  sort,  and  her  forests  and  iron  for  ship  and  steamboat 
building  Mr.  Hunt,  in  his  Gazetteer,  estimates  the  manufacture  of 
pine  lumber  at  400,000,000  feet,  besides  which  large  quantities  of  oak 
and  basswood  are  sawed  into  scantling,  plank,  lath,  etc.  He  also  gives 
the  number  of  barrels  of  flour  manufactured  at  100,000,  (independent 
of  all  kinds  of  mill  stuffs  in  abundance,)  of  paper,  300,000  pounds,  and 
of  shot,  100,000  pounds  annually. 

Internal  Improvements. — A  canal  is  being  constructed  from  the 
Wisconsin  to  the  Fox  river,  with  funds  arising  from  the  sale  of  land 
appropriated  by  the  national  government,  though  under  State  supervision. 
This,  when  completed,  will  open  an  uninterrupted  inland  navigation  from 
New'Orleans  to  New  York.  According  to  Hunt's  Magazine,  there  was 
322  miles  of  completed  railroad  in  this  State  in  January  1850,  and  707 
in  course  of  construction ;  or,  according  to  the  American  Railway  Times, 
283  miles  completed,  and  746  in  course  of  construction;  cost  $5,600,000. 
Of  these  the  Milwaukie  and  Mississippi  is  finished  103  miles,  the  Mil- 
waukie  and  Watertown  50,  the  Rock  river  86,  the  Janesville  and  Madison 
35,  GreenBay,  Milwaukie  and  Chicago  41,  and  La  Crosse  18  miles.  In  May, 
1855,  Milwaukie  was  connected  by  completed  railroad  more  or  less  directly 
with  Chicago,  Madison,  Janesville,  Watertown,  and  intermediate  points; 
while  roads  were  in  progress  that  will  continue  the  connections  to 
Prairie  du  Chicn,  La  Crosse,  Fond-du-Lac,  Green  Bay,  and  Beloit.  The 
latter  town  is  already  united  to  Chicago.  Roads  are  also  in  progress 
from  Kenosha  to  Beloit,  and  from  Mineral  point  to  the  Chicago  and 
Galena  railroad.  Plank  and  trunk-roads  are  being  laid  from  the  lake 
depots  toward  the  interior.     One  of  60  miles  extends  from  Kenosha  to 

Fox  river.  .  .  . 

Commerce.— Wisconsin  enjoys  great  facilities  for  internal  trade  with 
the  lake  and  Eastern  States,  through  those  great  inland  seas  which 
bound  her  on  the  north  and  east,  and  with  almost  every  part  of  the  valley 
of  the  Mississippi,  by  means  of  the  river  of  that  name  and  its  numerous 
tributaries,  and  even  with  the  Atlantic  ports  through  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 
ico. The  foreign  trade,  however,  of  this  State  is  insignificant,  amounting 
in  1854  to  a  value  only  of  $49,174  in  imports,  and  $30,464  in  exports. 
There  were  built  in  the  State  in  that  year  26  vessels,  with  an  aggregate 
tonnage  of  2,946  tons;  tonnage  owned  in  the  State,  14,217.  The 
aggregate  of  exports  and  imports  of  Milwaukie  for  1854  have  been 
loosely  estimated  at  $18,000,000.  The  exports  of  grain  from  the  lake 
ports  alone  amounted  to  6,930,150  bushels  in  the  same  year.  The 
exports  of  the  State  at  large  consist  mainly  of  wheat,  Indian  corn,  oats, 


WISCONSIN  557 

flour,  lumber,  pork,  beef,  lard,  butter,  lead,  bricks,  etc.  The  exports  of 
Racine  amounted  in  value  to  §1,381,691 ;  and  of  Green  Bay,  in  lumber 
alone,  to  §374,435.  According  to  De  Bow's  Review,  there  were  exported 
in  1851-52,  from  the  St.  Croix,  Chippewa,  and  Black  river?,  in  the  north- 
west part  of  Wisconsin,  01,000,000  feet  of  lumber;  23,000,000  feet  of 
logs  ;  square  timber,  lath,  shingles,  etc.,  valued  at  §30,000 ;  and  furs 
and  peltries  worth  §200,000;  making  the  value  of  exports  for  the 
western  part  of  the  State,  §1,170,000.  The  ports  of  Wisconsin  in  the 
district  of  Mackinac  probably  add  at  least  a  value  of  §5,000,000  to  the 
trade  of  Wisconsin.  The  total  lumber  trade  of  1852  has  been  given  at 
211,000, OOOfeet, viz., fromBlackriver,  15.000,000; Chippewa,  28,500,000; 
Green  Bay,  28,000,000;  Manitoowoc,  24,500,000;  St.  Croix,  20,000,000; 
Wisconsin,  70,000,000;  and  Wolf  river,  25,000,000.  The  total  valua- 
tion of  lead  exported  from  Galena  (nine-tenths  of  which,  according  to 
Hunt's  Gazetteer  of  Wisconsin,  was  from  that  State)  and  the  ports  on 
Lake  Michigan,  was  §3,459,075;  besides  considerable  quantities  shipped 
from  points  on  the  Mississippi  and  Wisconsin  rivers.  The  largest  ship- 
ment of  lead  within  the  12  years  preceding  and  including  1853  was 
54,494,862  pounds;  and  the  lowest,  28,603,960  pounds,  most  of  which 
was  from  the  mines  of  Wisconsin. 

Education. — In  39  counties  out  of  45,  reported  December  31, 1853, 
there  were  138,279  children  between  the  ages  of  4  and  20  years,  of  whom 
95,293  attended  school;  number  of  school  districts,  2,072;  school  fund, 
§1,141,804,  yielding  an  income  of  nearly  §80,000 ;  and  a  university 
fund  of  §93,732,  the  income  of  which  is  devoted  to  the  State  university. 
According  to  the  census  of  1850,  Wisconsin  had  2  colleges,  with  75 
students  and  §4,700  income,  of  which  §400  was  from  endowments ; 
1,423  public  schools,  with  58,817  pupils  and  §113,133  income,  of  which 
§86,391  was  from  taxation,  and  §21,993  from  public  funds;  and  58 
academies  and  other  schools  with  2,723  pupils  and  818,796  income. 
Attending  schools,  as  returned  by  families,  56,421.  Adults  who  could 
not  read  or  write,  6,453,  of  whom  4,902  were  of  foreign  birth.  It  is 
expected  that  ere  long  the  lands  appropriated  for  the  support  of  schools 
will  form  a  fund  of  from  §3,000,000  to  §5,000,000.  Public  instruction 
is  under  the  charge  of  a  State  superintendent,  receiving  §1,000  per 
annum.  There  have  been  granted  fur  the  support  of  a  State  university, 
46,080  acres  of  land.  There  are  also  other  colleges  and  academies  sup- 
ported by  private  subscription,  which  are  promising  institutions. 

Religious  Denominations.— Of  366  churches  in  Wisconsin  in  1850, 
the  Baptists  owned  49,  the  Christians  4,  the  Congregationalists  37,  the 
Dutch  Reformed  2,  the  Episcopalians  19,  the  Free  Church  2,  the  Luther- 
ans 20,  the  Methodists  110,  the  Presbyt  rians  40,  the  Roman  Catholics 
64,  the  Union  church  1,  the  Universalists  6,  and  minor  sects  11.  Giving 
1  church  to  every  835  inhabitants.     Value  of  church  property.  $353, 900. 

Periodicals. — There  were  published  in  the  State,  in  1850,  6  daily,  4 
tri-weekly,  and  35  weekly  newspapers,  and  1  monthly  magazine,  with  an 
aggregate  annual  circulation  of  2,665,487  copies. 

Public  Institutions. — The  Wisconsin  Blind  Asylum,  at  Janesville, 
founded  in  1850,  is  supported  by  a  tax  of  one-fifth  of  a  mill  on  every 


558  WISCONSIN. 

dollar  of  taxable  property,  and  had  13  inmates  in  January,  1854,  educa- 
ted at  an  expense  of  $2,421.  The  State  appropriated  $1,500  for  its 
support  in  1853.  The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  at  Delavan,  established 
in  1852,  had  14  inmates  in  January,  1854.  The  State  Prison  at  Waupan, 
Fond-du-Lac  county,  had  64  inmates  in  1854. 

Population. — This  flourishing  scion  of  the  West  has  had  a  growth 
unexampled  even  iu  that  thriving  region,  having  increased  from  30,945 
n  1840,  to  a  population  of  305,391  in  1850;  of  whom  164,351  were 
white  males;  140,405  white  females;  365  free  colored  males;  and  270 
free  colored  females.  The  population  was  divided  into  57,608  familes, 
occupying  56,316  dwellings.  Population  to  the  square  mile,  566.  Of 
the  entire  population,  63,015  only  were  born  in  the  State;  134,897  in 
other  States  of  the  confederacy;  8,277  in  British  America;  34,515  in 
Germany;  775  in  France;  18,952  in  England;  21,043  in  Ireland, 
3,527  in  Scotland;  4,319  in  Wales;  4  in  Spain;  4  in  Portugal;  45  in 
Belgium;  1,157  in  Holland;  9  in  Italy;  61  in  Austria;  1,244  in  Switz- 
erland; 71  in  Russia;  8,651  in  Norway,  146  in  Denmark;  88  in  Swe- 
den ;  3,545  in  Prussia;  1  in  Sardinia;  1  in  Greece ;  17  in  Asia;  1  in 
Africa;  9  in  Mexico;  11  in  Central  America;  6  in  South  America;  20 
in  West  Indies;  1  in  Sandwich  Islands;  191  in  other  countries,  and  784 
whose  places  of  birth  were  unknown — showing  nearly  35  per  cent,  of 
foreign  birth,  and  exhibiting  a  greater  variety  than  is  usual,  even  in  the 
very  diversified  population  of  the  other  parts  of  the  Union.  It  will  be 
observed  that  a  new  element,  or  at  least  in  much  greater  proportion  than 
elsewhere,  has  been  introduced  by  the  emigration  of  considerable  bodies 
of  Norwegians,  being  about  two-thirds  of  the  whole  number  of  that 
nation  born  in  the  United  States.  The  emigration  from  Germany  and 
Wales  is  also  in  greater  proportion  than  in  the  other  States.  Of  the 
entire  population  in  1850,  794  wrere  engaged  in  mining;  7,047  in  agri- 
culture; 479  in  commerce:  1814  in  manufactures;  14  in  navigating 
the  ocean;  209  in  the  internal  navigation;  and  259  in  the  learned  pro- 
fessions. 

Counties. — Wisconsin  is  divided  into  49  counties,  viz.,  Adams,  Bad 
Axe,  Brown,  Buffalo,  Calumet,  Chippewa,  Columbia,  Crawford,  Dane, 
Dodge,  Door,  Douglass,  Dunn,  Fond-du-lac,  Grant,  Green,  Iowa,  Jack- 
son, Jefferson,  Kenosha,  Kewaunee,  La  Crosse,  Lafayette,  Lapointe, 
Manitoowoc,  Marathon,  Marquette,  Milwaukie,  Monroe,  Oconto,  Outa- 
gamie, Ozaukee,  Pierce,  Polk,  Portage,  Racine,  Richland,  Rock,  St. 
Croix,  Sauk,  Shawana,  Sheboygan,  Trempealeau,  Walworth,  Wash- 
ington, Waukesha,  Waupacca,  Waushara,  and  Winnebago.  Capital, 
Madison. 

Cities  and  Towns. — Towns  are  springing  up  in  Wisconsin  as  if  bj 
magic,  and  a  region  that  but  a  few  years  ago  was  mostly  an  Indian 
hunting-ground,  is  now  dotted  over  with  them.  The  principal  of  these 
are  Milwaukee,  population,  20,061 ;  Racine,  5,111  ;  Kenosha,  3,455  ; 
Janesville,  3,451  ;  Waukesha,  2,313  ;  Platteville,  2,197;  and  Fond-du- 
lac,  2,014.  These,  in  1853,  according  to  De-Bow's  Compendium  of  the 
Census,  had,  in  the  order  named  (with  the  exception  of  Platteville,  not 
given,)   25,000;    7,500;    5,000;    4,000;    and   4,000  each,  respectively. 


Wisconsin.  559 

Besides  these  there  are  Beloit,  Madison,  Green  Bay,  Portage,  Ozaukee, 
Mineral  Point,  Oshkosh,  Watertown,  Sheboygan,  and  Manitoowoc,  having 
populations  from  2,000  to  4,000  each. 

Government,  Finances,  Banks,  etc. — The  governor  is  elected  by 
the  people  for  2  years,  and  receives  §1,250  per  annum.  Wisconsin  ha3 
also  a  lieutenant-governor,  elected  for  a  like  period,  who  is  ex-officio 
president  of  the  Senate,  and  receives  85  a  day  during  the  session  of  the 
Legislature.  The  Senate  consists  of  18  members,  and  the  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives of  54  ;  both  elected  by  the  people  for  2  years.  The  Legislature 
meets  on  the  first  Monday  in  January.  Every  white  male  of  24  years 
of  age,  who  shall  have  resided  in  the  State  one  year  next  preceding  an 
election ;  white  males  of  foreign  birth,  who  shall  have  declared  their  in- 
tentions of  becoming  citizens  in  due  form;  and  civilized  Indians,  or  Indi- 
ans who  have  been  once  declared  by  Congress  citizens,  shall  be  entitled 
to  a  vote.  The  State  has  an  emigrant  officer  resident  in  New  York  city. 
The  judiciary  consists — 1.  Of  a  supreme  court,  composed  of  3  judges; 
2.  Of  circuit  courts,  which  hold  two  sessions,  at  least,  a  year  in  each 
county;  and  3.  Of  county  courts  and  justices  of  the  peace.  (Except  to 
issue  writs  of  mandamus,  quo  warranto,  etc.,  the  supreme  court  is  only 
an  appeal  court,  and  has  no  jury  trials.)  All  judges  are  elected  by  the 
people,  the  supreme  and  circuit  judges  for  6  years,  and  the  county  judges 
for  4.  The  supreme  judges  receive  salaries  of  82,000,  and  the  circuit  • 
judges  §1,500  per  annum  each.  The  assessed  value  of  property  in  Wis- 
consin in  1850  was  826,715,525  ;  and  864,285,714  in  1851.  State  debt, 
in  1854,  8100,000.  Annual  expenses,  exclusive  of  schools  and  debt, 
840,000.  There  were  23  banks  in  the  State,  January  1,  1855,  with  a 
capital  of  81,400,000,  a  circulation  of  $740,764,  and  8334,383  in  coin. 

History. — Wisconsin  was  visited  at  a  very  early  period  by  the  French 
missionaries  and  discoverers,  and  a  settlement  made  by  the  French  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  seventeenth  century.  There  was  no  considerable  influx 
of  emigration,  however,  till  quite  recently;  but  it  is  likely  to  repay  amply 
for  its  tardiness,  by  the  unexampled  rapidity  with  which  emigration  flows 
thither,  invited  by  its  rich  soil,  valuable  minerals,  beautiful  lakes,  and 
rolling  prairies.  Wisconsin  was  formed  into  a  territory  in  1836,  and 
admitted  into  the  Union  as  an  independent  State  in  1848. 

Milwaukee. — A  city,  port  of  entry,  capital  of  Milwaukie  county,  and 
the  most  populous  town  of  Wisconsin,  is  situated  on  the  west  shore  of 
Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  Milwaukie  river,  90  miles  north  of  Chi- 
cago, and  75  miles  east  of  Madison.  Latitude  43°  3'  45"  north,  and  lon- 
gitude 87°  57'  west.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  flats  bordering  the 
river,  and  on  the  bluffs  which  rise  abruptly  from  the  margin  of  the  lake 
to  the  bight  of  about  100  feet.  The  river  approaches  from  the  north  in 
a  direction  nearly  parallel  with  the  lake  shore,  and  is  joined  about  1  mile 
from  its  mouth,  by  the  Menomonee  river,  which  comes  from  the  west. 
The  largest  boats  of  the  lake  can  ascend  the  river  2  miles  from  its  mouth. 
The  general  appearance  of  the  city  is  peculiar  and  striking,  from  the  color 
and  superior  quality  of  the  bricks  manufactured  here.  They  have  a 
delicate  and  enduring  cream  or  straw  color,  which  is  highly  agreeable  to 
the  eye,  and  is  not  affected  by  the  action  of  the  elements.  Many  of 
36 


560  Wisconsin. 

these  bricks  are  exported  to  distant  parts  of  the  Union.  Milwaukie 
contains  about  30  churches,  of  which  2G  are  Protestant  and  4  Roman 
Catholic,  5  public  schools,  the  Milwaukie  University  Institute,  a  female 
college,  several  academies,  3  orphan  asylums,  and  other  benevolent  insti- 
tutions. The  public  press  consists  of  7  daily  newspapers,  and  about  the 
same  number  of  weekly  issues.  There  are  3  or  4  banks,  and  several  in- 
surance companies.  The  streets,  stores,  etc.,  are  lighted  with  gas.  In 
1853  the  citizens  voted  a  loan  of  $50,000,  to  be  expended  in  the  improve- 
ment of  the  harbor,  Congress  having  previously  appropriated  §15,000 
to  that  purpose. 

The  Milwaukie  and  Mississippi  railroad  has  recently  been  completed 
from  this  place  to  Madison.  Other  railroads  are  in  progress  to  Chicago, 
Green  Bay,  Beloit,  etc.  Plank-roads  extend  from  the  city  in  six  direc- 
tions, with  an  aggregate  length  of  about  200  miles.  Milwaukie  is  the 
outlet  of  the  productions  of  a  rich  and  rapidly  improving  country.  The 
following  quantities  of  produce  where  shipped  here  in  1852,  viz. :  394,386 
bushels  of  wheat;  345,620  of  barley;  428,800  of  oats;  88,597  barrels 
of  flour;  1,771,314  pounds  of  pork  in  bulk;  19,603  barrels  of  pork; 
321,121  pounds  of  wool;  about  1,000,000  pounds  of  lead,  and  700,000 
bricks.  Tonnage  of  vessels  owned  here  in  1854,  14,217.  During  the 
year  26  schooners,  of  2,946  tons,  were  built.  The  navigation  is  usually 
open  about  8  months  in  the  year,  from  March  to  November.  Milwaukie 
enjoys  a  healthy  climate,  the  great  lakes  having  a  sensible  influence  in 
modifying  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold.  The  mean  annual  temperature 
in  3  years  was  47°.  The  extensive  water-power  of  the  river  constitutes 
an  important  element  in  the  prosperity  of  Milwaukie.  At  the  head  of 
the  navigable  part  of  the  river  a  dam  has  been  built,  which  raises  the 
water  12  feet,  and  a  canal  conveys  it  to  the  city.  Here  are  5  large  flour- 
ing-mills,  a  woolen  factory,  several  machine  shops,  and  other  establish- 
ments. The  reported  value  of  articles  manufactured  in  1852  was  over 
$2,000,000.  Milwaukie  is  remarkable  for  the  rapidity  of  its  growth, 
which  has  not  been  surpassed,  if  equalled,  by  any  of  the  western  towns. 
It  maintains  intimate  relations  with  a  region  to  which  a  vast  emigration 
is  flowing — a  region  which  a  few  years  ago  was  a  solitary  waste,  or  a  field 
of  savage  warfare,  but  is  now  appropriated  to  the  peaceful  pursuits  and 
liberal  institutions  of  civilized  society.  The  place  was  settled  in  1835. 
The  city  was  incorporated  in  January,  1846.  Population  in  1840, 1,751 ; 
in  1850,  20,061  ;  in  1854,  about  30,000. 

Racine,  capital  of  Racine  county,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  west 
shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  Root  river,  25  miles  south  by 
east  of  Milwaukie,  and  70  miles  north  of  Chicago.  It  is  the  second 
city  of  the  State  in  population  and  commerce,  and  has  one  of  the  best 
harbors  on  the  lake,  formed  by  the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  admits 
vessels  drawing  12  feet  of  water.  The  city  is  built  on  a  plain  elevated 
about  40  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  lake.  It  is  laid  out  in  regular 
blocks,  with  wide  streets,  and  contains  a  number  of  fine  public  buildings; 
among  which  is  the  Racine  college,  founded  by  the  Episcopal  church. 
Racine  contains  12  Protestant  and  2  Catholic  churches,  a  central  high 
school,  and  a  bank  in  successful  operation.     Several  newspapers  are 


WISCONSIN.  561 

published  here.  The  commercial  advantages  of  this  port  have  attracted 
considerable  capital,  and  there  are  10  warehouses  and  126  mercantile 
bouses  in  various  branches  of  business.  Over  $60,000  have  been  ex- 
pended by  the  citizens  of  Racine  in  the  construction  of  a  harbor.  From 
30  to  40  vessels  are  owned  here,  with  an  agregate  burden  of  over  4,000 
tons.  The  exports  in  1851  amounted  in  value  to  $1,034,590,  and  the 
imports  to  §1,473,125.  There  are  3  ship-yards,  and  several  furnaces, 
machine-shops,  and  flouring  mills.  Three  plank-roads  extend  from 
Racine  into  the  interior,  and  railroads  are  in  course  of  construction  to 
Chicago,  Milwaukee,  and  Janesville.  First  settled  in  1835;  incorporated 
as  a  city  in  1848.  Population  in  1840,  337;  in  1850,  5,111;  in  1853, 
about  7,500. 

Madison,  capital  of  the  State  of  Wisconsin,  and  seat  of  justice  of 
Dane  county,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  an  isthmus  between  Third  lake 
and  Fourth  lake,  80  miles  west  of  Milwaukie,  and  154  miles  north-west 
of  Chicago,  in  latitude  43°  5X  north,  longitude  89°  20'  west.  It  stands 
in  the  center  of  a  broad  valley,  surrounded  by  bights  from  which  the 
town  can  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  several  miles.  The  isthmus  is  about 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  width.  Fourth  lake,  which  lies  on  the  north- 
west side  of  the  town,  is  6  miles  long  by  4  miles  wide.  It  is  a  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  with  clean  gravelly  shores.  The  depth  is  sufficient  for 
navigation  by  steamboats,  and  is  estimated  at  about  60  feet.  The  Third 
lake  is  rather  smaller.  When  this  place  was  selected  for  the  seat  of 
government,  in  1836,  it  contained  no  buildings  but  a  solitary  log  cabin. 
The  Capitol,  which  is  a  limestone  structure,  built  at  an  expense  of  $50,- 
000,  stands  on  ground  70  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lakes,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  public  square.  The  streets  which  lead  from  the  Capitol 
towards  the  cardinal  points  descend  gradually  to  the  shores  of  the  lakes 
excepting  the  one  which  extends  westward  to  College  Hill.  On  this 
eminence,  1  mile  west  of  the  Capitol,  and  about  125  feet  above  the  lake, 
is  situated  the  University  of  Wisconsin,  which  was  instituted  in  1849. 
Three  newspapers  are  published.  It  contains  a  bank,  5  or  6  churches, 
26  stores,  an  iron  foundery,  a  woolen  factory,  and  several  steam-mills. 
The  author  of  "Western  Portraiture"  gives  the  following  lively  sketch 
of  this  place  and  its  environs :  "  Madison  perhaps  combines  and  over- 
looks more  charming  and  diversified  scenery  to  please  the  eye  of  fancy 
and  promote  health  and  pleasure,  than  any  other  town  in  the  west;  and 
in  these  respects  it  surpasses  every  other  State  capital  in  the  Union.  Its 
bright  lakes,  fresh  groves,  rippling  rivulets,  shady  dales,  and  flowery 
meadow  lawns,  are  commingled  in  greater  profusion,  and  disposed  in  more 
picturesque  order  than  we  have  ever  elsewhere  beheld.  *  *  *  Nor  is 
it  less  noteworthy  for  its  business  advantages  and  its  healthful  position. 
Situated  on  elevated  ground,  amid  delightful  groves  and  productive  lands, 
well  above  the  cool,  clear  lakes,  it  must  be  healthy :  while  the  abundance 
and  convenience  of  fine  streams  and  water-power  must  facilitate  a  sound 
and  rapid  advancement  in  agriculture  and  the  mechanic  arts.  There  are 
also  liberal  charters  for  railroads  connecting  Madison  with  Milwaukie,  Chi- 
cago, and  the  Mississippi,  some  of  which  are  being  pushed  ahead  with 
t,-«rcrv."     Railway  communication   with  Milwaukie  is  now   completed. 


562  ILLINOIS. 

Population   in  1840,  376;  in  1850,  1,525;  in   1853,  about  3,500;  in 
1855,  6,863. 

Kenosha,  formerly  Southport,  a  flourishing  town  of  Southport  town- 
ship, capital  of  Kenosha  county,  Wisconsin,  is  situated  on  a  bluff  on  the 
west  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  55  miles  north  of  Chicago,  and  35  miles 
south  of  Milwaukie.  It  is  the  most  south  lake  port  in  Wisconsin,  and 
has  a  good  harbor,  with  piers  extending  into  Lake  Michigan.  The  town 
was  commenced  in  1836;  in  1840  it  had  337  inhabitants;  since  which 
date  it  has  increased  very  rapidly.  The  adjacent  country  is  a  beautiful, 
fertile  prairie,  in  which  extensive  improvements  have  been  made.  A 
plank-road,  about  20  miles  long,  connects  this  place  with  Fox  river, 
of  Illinois,  and  railroads  are  in  progress  to  Chicago,  Milwaukie,  and 
Rock  river.  The  chief  articles  of  export  are  wheat,  flour,  oats,  pork,  and 
wool.  In  1851  the  total  value  of  exports  amounted  to  $661,228,  and  of 
imports  to  $1,306,856.  The  town  contains  1  bank  and  3  newspaper 
offices.     Population  in  1850,  3,455;  in  1853,  about  5,000. 


ILLINOIS 


This  State  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Wisconsin,  east  by  Lake 
Michigan  and  Indiana,  from  the  last  of  which  it  is  partly  separated  by 
the  "Wabash  river,  south  by  the  Ohio  river,  which  separates  it  from 
Kentucky,  and  south-west  and  west  by  Missouri  and  Iowa,  from  which 
it  is  separated  by  the  Mississippi  river.  It  lies  between  37°  and  42°  30' 
north  latitude,  and  between  87°  30'  and  91°  40'  west  longitude,  being 
about  380  miles  in  extreme  length  from  north  to  south,  and  about  200  in 
its  greatest,  and  140  miles  in  its  average  breadth,  including  55,409 
square  miles,  or  35,459,200  acres,  of  which  only  5,039,545  acres  were 
improved  in  1850,  showing  an  immense  capacity  for  increase  of  popula- 
tion in  this  exuberantly  fertile  State,  which  has  scarcely  any  soil 
uncultivable. 

Face  of  the  Country. — Illinois  is  generally  a  table-land,  elevated 
from  350  to  800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  with  a 
general  inclination  from  north  to  south,  as  indicated  by  the  course  of  the 
rivers.  This  State,  generally  speaking,  may  be  characterized  as  level, 
though  there  are  elevated  bluffs  on  the  Illinois  river,  and  still  higher 
ones  on  the  Mississippi.  There  is  a  small  tract  of  hilly  country  in  the 
south,  and  in  the  north-west  is  a  good  deal  of  broken  land.     Many  of  the 


ILLINOIS.  563 

prairies  are  quite  small,  but  others  are  very  large;  among  the  latter  is 
Grand  Praire,  extending  from  Jackson  county,  in  a  north-east  direction, 
to  Iroquois  county,  and  varying  in  width  from  1  to  more  than  12  miles. 
This  is  probably  the  highest  land  between  the  Mississippi  and  the 
Wabash.  The  prairie  is  everywhere  skirted  with  wood,  and  on  its 
border  is  a  circle  of  settlements,  which  have  been  here  located  on  account 
of  the  timber.  The  prairies  are  interspersed  with  groups  of  trees,  but 
the  timber  is  generally  spnrse  on  them,  which,  however  seems  not  to 
arise  from  any  thing  unfavorable  in  the  soil,  but  from  the  annual  burn- 
ing of  the  prairie  grass ;  for,  whore  this  is  prevented,  a  forest  of  young 
trees  speedily  springs  up,  and  farmers  are  thus  enabled  to  proceed  in- 
ward with  settlements,  as  it  were,  tier  after  tier.  The  prairies  are  not 
generally  flat,  but  gracefully  undulating,  and  profusely  decked  with  the 
greatest  variety  of  beautiful  wild  flowers  of  every  hue,  which  ravish  the 
beholder  with  delight. 

Minerals. — Illinois  has  within  her  limits  a  large  portion  of  the 
great  lead  region,  which  she  shares  with  Iowa  and  Wisconsin.  Galena, 
in  the  north-west  part  of  the  State,  is  almost  wholly  supported  by  trade 
in  this  mineral.  More  than  13,000,000  pounds  (including  that  of 
Wisconsin)  have  been  smelted  in  one  year.  Bituminous  coal  occurs  in 
almost  every  county,  and  may  be  often  obtained  without  excavation. 
Vast  beds  are  found  in  the  bluff's  adjacent  to  the  American  Bottom.  A 
bed  of  anthracite  coal  is  reported  to  have  been  discovered  in  Jackson 
county.  According  to  Taylor,  the  coal-fields  of  Illinois  occupy  an  area 
of  44,000  square  miles.  Copper  abounds  in  the  north  part,  on  Plum 
Creek,  and  on  the  Peekatonica  river.  It  has  also  been  found  in  Jackson 
and  Monroe  counties.  Iron  exists  in  the  south  part,  and  is  said  to  be 
abundant  in  the  north.  Lime,  zinc,  some  silver,  (reported  in  St.  Clair 
county,)  marble  of  a  fine  quality,  freestone,  gypsum,  and  quartz  crystals 
are  the  ether  minerals.  There  are  salt-springs  in  Gallatin,  Jackson,  and 
Vermilion  counties,  leased  by  the  State.  Medicinal  springs,  chiefly 
sulphur  and  chalybeate,  are  found  in  various  parts,  and  one  especially,  in 
Jefferson  county,  is  much  resorted  to.  In  the  southern  part  of  the  State 
is  one  strongly  impregnated  with  Epsom  salts.  Others  of  medicinal 
properties  are  found  between  Ottawa  and  Peru. 

Rivers. — The  rivers  of  Illinois  have  generally  cut  channels  through 
the  table-land  or  plain  which  they  drain,  presenting  precipitous  bluffs, 
sometimes  close  to  the  river's  brink,  and  at  other  times  leaving  an 
alluvion  bottom  between  the  river  and  the  bluffs.  The  Mississippi 
forms  the  entire  western,  and  the"  Ohio  river  the  entire  southern  boun- 
dary, giving  the  State  commercial  access  to  the  great  valleys  bearing 
the  names  of  their  respective  rivers.  The  Illinois  river  is  formed  by  the 
Kankakee  from  Indiana,  and  the  Pes  Plaines  from  Wisconsin,  in  the 
north-east  of  the  State,  and  crossing  the  middle  of  the  State,  after  a 
course  of  500  miles  from  its  remotest  source,  empties  itself  into  the 
Mississippi.  The  Rock  river  rises  in  Wisconsin,  and  the  Kaskaskia  in 
the  middle  of  Illinois;  both  flow  south-west  into  the  Mississippi.  The 
Sangamon  empties  itself  into  the  Illinois  80  miles  above  its  mouth,  after 
a  westerly  course   of  about  200  miles.     Besides   the   Kankakee,    Pes 


564  ILLINOIS. 

Plaines,  and  Fox  rivers,  which  are  its  principal  sources,  the  Illinois  has 
a  number  of  smaller  tributaries.  The  Wabash,  which  receives  the 
waters  that  drain  the  east  part  of  the  State,  forms  the  east  boundary 
for  more  than  100  miles.  Lake  Michigan  bounds  the  State  on  the 
north-east  for  60  miles,  and  adds  greatly  to  its  commercial  importance. 
Lake  Peoria,  an  expansion  of  the  Illinois  river,  near  the  middle  of  the 
State,  and  Lake  Pishtaka,  in  the  north-east,  are  the  only  other  lakes  of 
any  importance.  The  Illinois  has  a  sluggish  current,  and  in  time  of 
freshets  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi  back  up  into  it  for  70  miles.  It  is 
navigable  for  steamboats  286  miles,  and  at  high  water  boats  proceed 
beyond  the  rapids  above  Vermilion  river.  Eock  river  has  obstructions 
near  its  mouth,  but,  notwithstanding,  both  it  and  the  Kaskaskia,  as  well 
as  the  Sangamon  and  Spoon,  are  navigable  for  a  considerable  distance  at 
high  water  by  steamboats,  and  still  higher  for  small  boats.  The  Wabash 
is  navigable  for  steamboats  beyond  the  point  where  it  first  touches  the 
Illinois  boundary.  The  rivers  flowing  into  the  Wabash  from  Illinois  are 
the  Vermilion,  Embarras,  and  Little  Wabash,  having  courses  of  from 
100  to  150  miles.     The  Embarras  is  navigable  for  keel-boats. 

Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists. — Though  Illinois  presents  but 

few  bold  or  very  striking  features  to  the  view  of  the  traveler,  she  is  not 

without  her  objects  of  interest  to  the  lover  of  nature.     Her  wide-spread 

prairies,  decked  with  flowers  of  every  hue  that  can  gratify  the  eye,  and 

covered  with  waving  grass,  convey,  besides  their  quiet  landscape  beauty, 

a  feeling  of  sublimity  from  their  vastness,  similar  to   that  created  by 

viewing  the  ocean;  and  perhaps  no  natural  objects  in  our  country  would 

more    strike    the   European    than    our    prairies — especially  the    Grand 

Prairie,  which  has  already  been  referred  to.     The  river  bluffs  inspire  the 

same   sense   of  rugged  grandeur  as  mountains,  though  in  a  less  degree. 

The  most  remarkable  of  these  are  on  the  Mississippi,  and  are  from  100 

to  400  feet  high.     Fountain  bluff,  on  the  Mississippi  river,  in  Jackson 

county,  is  of  an  oval  shape,  6  miles  in  circuit,  and  300  feet  high.     The 

top   is   full   of  sink-holes.     Starved   rock  and   Lover's  leap  are   each 

eminences  on  Illinois  river.     The  former  is  a  perpendicular  mass  of 

limestone  and  sandstone,  8  miles  below  Ottawa,  and  150  feet  above  the 

river.     It  received  its  name  from  a  band  of  Illinois  Indians  having  taken 

refuge  here,  who,  being  surrounded  by  the  Pottawatomies,  all  died,  not 

of  starvation,  but  of  thirst.     Lover's  leap  is  a  ledge  of  precipitous  rocks, 

some  distance  above  Starved  rock.      On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 

and  nearly  opposite   to  the  Lover's  leap,  is  Buffalo  rock,  100  feet  high, 

precipitous   next  the   river,  but  sloping  inland.      Hither  the  Indians 

formerly  drove  the  buffalo,  and  frightening  them  by  shouts,  caused  them 

to  crowd  each  other  over  the  precipice.    The  cave  in  the  rock,  in  Hardin 

county,  on  the  banks   of  the   Ohio,   presents,   as  you  approach  it,   the 

appearance  of  a  vast  mass  of  rocks,  some  resembling  castellated  ruins, 

and  others  jutting  out  irregularly  in  a  variety  of  forms.     The  entrance 

of  the  cave,  which  is  but  little  above  the  bed  of  the  river,  is  a  semicircle, 

80  feet  wide  and  25  feet  high.      The  cave  ascends  gradually  from  its 

entrance  to  the  extreme  limit,  180  feet  back  from  the  mouth.     A  small 

opening  leads  into  the  second  cave,  whose  dimensions  are  not  known. 


o 


ILLINOIS.  665 

This  cave  was,  in  1797,  the  abode  of  a  band  of  robbers,  who  sallied  out 
to  rob  the  unfortunate  boatmen  and  emigrants.  It  has  since  been  the 
abode  of  other  bands  of  robbers.  The  miners,  in  sinking  their  shafts  in 
the  lead  region,  often  come  upon  caverns  at  the  depth  of  40,  70,  and 
even  100  feet,  which  present  brilliant  specimens  of  stalactites,  stalag- 
mites, and  other  varieties  of  calcareous  spar,  and  resemblances  of  leaves, 
birds,  animals,  etc.  In  some  caves,  sulphate  of  lime,  in  different  crys- 
talized  firms,  is  found.  Near  Cahokia  is  a  mound  2,000  feet  in  circum- 
ference, and  00  feet  high.  There  is  great  inducement  for  the  sportsman 
to  visit  Illinois,  to  shoot  the  prairie-hen,  a  species  of  pheasant  or  grouse, 
and  to  fish  for  trout  in  the  clear  streams  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
State. 

Climate,  Soil,  and  Productions. — Illinois,  extending  through  more 
than  5°  of  latitude,  has  considerable  variety  of  climate.  Though  some- 
what milder  than  the  Atlantic  States  in  the  same  parallels,  there  is  great 
irregularity  in  the  seasons.  Generally,  there  will  not  fall  six  inches  of 
snow  at  one  time,  which  does  not  lie  more  than  a  few  days,  but  at  dis- 
tant intervals  the  rivers  are  frozen  for  two  or  three  months,  and  the 
snow  lies  for  as  long  a  period.  The  summers  are  hot,  but  mitigated  by 
the  fresh  breezes  from  the  prairies.  During  15  years,  peach-trees 
blossomed  from  March  25th  to  April  20th,  and  apple-trees  from  April 
1st  to  May  3d.  In  the  same  period,  the  earliest  frost  was  September 
17th,  but  sometimes  there  is  none  till  near  the  end  of  October.  Cattle 
often  are  unhoused  during  the  whole  winter.  The  meteorological  table 
kept  at  Muscatine,  Iowa,  (see  Iowa,)  will  perhaps  be  a  fair  average 
representation  of  the  temperature  of  Illinois. 

In  agricultural  capabilities  Illinois  is  unsurpassed,  if  equalled,  by  any 
State  in  the  American  Confederacy.  In  some  of  her  river-bottoms  the 
soil  is  25  feet  deep,  and  the  upland  prairies  are  but  little  inferior  in 
fertility.  The  Great  American  bottom,  lying  on  the  Mississippi,  be- 
tween the  mouths  of  the  Kaskaskia  and  Missouri  river,  is  of  exceeding 
fertility,  and  has  been  cultivated  for  100  years  without  apparent  de- 
terioration. This  bottom  is  about  80  miles  in  length,  covering  an  area 
of  288,000  acres.  On  the  river  side  is  a  strip  of  heavy  timber,  with 
dense  underwood,  which  extends  for  2  or  3  miles.  The  rest  is  mostly 
prairie  to  the  east  limit,  which  is  terminated  by  a  chain  of  sandy  or 
rocky  bluffs  from  50  to  200  feet  high.  This  fine  region  is,  however,  not 
healthy,  though  probably  capable  of  being  made  so  by  drainage.  The 
Rock  river  country  is  another  highly  fertile  district,  on  the  Eock  river 
and  its  branches.  Of  the  same  character  are  the  regions  about  the 
Sangamon,  Kaskaskia,  and  other  rivers.  Other  regions  of  Illinois  are 
fertile;  but  those  mentioned  pre-eminently  so,  producing  not  unfre- 
quently  40  bushels  of  wheat  and  100  of  Indian  corn  to  the  acre.  This 
is  especially  true  of  the  narrow  river-bottoms  immediately  adjacent  to 
their  banks.  The  prairies  of  this  State  are  peculiarly  favorable  to  the 
raising  of  stock  and  the  productions  of  the  dairy.  Illinois  stands  third 
in  the  absolute  amount  of  Indian  corn  raised  in  the  States  of  the  Union, 
but  first,  if  we  regard  population  and  the  number  of  acres  under  cultiva- 
tion.    The  other  agricultural  staples  are  wheat,  oats,  Irish  potatoes,  hay, 


566  ILLINOIS. 

butter,  and  cheese.  Besides  these,  large  quantities  of  rye,  wool,  beans, 
peas,  barley,  buckwheat,  fruits,  garden  vegetables,  and  some  tobacco, 
sweet  potatoes,  wine,  grass-seeds,  hops,  hemp,  flax,  silk,  maple-sugar 
and  molasses,  beeswax  and  honey,  and  the  castor-bean  are  produced. 
Of  indigenous  fruits,  there  are  a  variety  of  berries,  plums,  grapes,  crab- 
apples,  wild  cherries,  persimmons,  and  the  papaw,  (a  sweet,  pulpy  fruit, 
somewhat  like  the  banana.)  Of  orchard  fruits,  the  apple  and  peach 
flourish  best,  but  pears  and  quinces  are  cultivated  with  facility.  Of  nuts, 
the  shellbark  or  hickory,  walnut,  butternut,  a  white  walnut,  and  pecan 
abound.  According  to  the  census  reports  of  1850,  there  were  76,208 
farms  in  Illinois,  containing  5,039,545  acres  of  improved  land,  and  pro- 
ducing 9,414,575  bushels  of  wheat;  83,36*4  of  rye;  57,646,984  of  Indian 
corn;  10,087,241  of  oats;  82,874  of  peas  and  beans;  2,514,861  of  Irish 
potatoes;  157,433  of  sweet  potatoes;  110,795  of  barley ;  184,504  of  buck- 
wheat; 841,394  pounds  of  tobacco;  2,150,113  of  wool;  12,526,543  of 
butter;  1,278,225  of  cheese;  601,952  tons  of  hay;  17,807  bushels  of 
grass-seeds;  160,063  pounds  of  flax;  248,904  of  maple-sugar;  869,444 
of  beeswax  and  honey;  live  stock,  valued  at  $24,209,258;  slaughtered 
animals,  at  $4,972,286;  orchard  products,  at  8446,049,  and  market  pro- 
duce at  8127,494. 

Forest  Trees. — Illinois  contains  abundance  of  timber,  which,  how- 
ever, is  not  equally  diffused.  The  occupation  of  the  country  will, 
however,  remedy  this  deficiency  (even  in  parts  where  there  is  now  a 
scarcity)  by  protecting  the  young  trees  from  the  ravages  of  the  prairie 
fires.  The  bottom  lands  have  a  rich  growth  of  black  and  white  walnut, 
ash,  hackberry,  elm,  sugar-maple,  honey-locust,  buckeye  catalpa,  syca- 
more, (of  a  size  unknown  in  the  Atlantic  States,)  Cottonwood,  pecan, 
hickory,  and  oak  of  various  species;  and  of  underwood,  redbud,  papaw, 
grape-vine,  eglantine,  dogwood,  spicebush,  hazel,  green-brier,  etc.  On 
the  uplands  are  post-oak  (very  valuable  for  fencing)  and  other  species  of 
oak,  blackjack,  (useless  except  for  fuel,)  hickory,  black  and  white  wal- 
nut, linn  or  basswood,  cherry,  etc.  The  white  and  yellow  poplar  are 
found  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State,  and  the  cypress  on  the  Ohio 
bottoms. 

Manufactures. — Illinois  is  not  largely  engaged  in  manufacturing, 
though  the  facilities  for  carrying  on  these  branches  of  industry  are  not 
wanting,  when  circumstances  shall  arrive  to  make  it  profitable  or  neces- 
sary. According  to  the  census  of  1850,  there  were  in  Illinois  3,099 
manufacturing  establishments,  each  producing  $500  and  upwards  an- 
nually, and  homemade  manufactures,  valued  at  Si, 155,902;  of  these  16 
were  engaged  in  the  fabrication  of  woolens,  employing  $154,500  capital, 
and  124  male  and  54  female  hands,  consuming  raw  material  worth  $115, 
364,  and  producing  306,995  yards  of  stuffs  and  137,000  pounds  of  yarn, 
with  a  total  value  of  $206,572  ;  31  furnaces,  forges,  &c,  employing 
$325,400  capital,  and  482  male  hands,  consuming  $187,830  worth  of 
raw  materials,  and  producing  2,700  tons  of  pig,  and  4,160  tons  of  cast 
iron,  having  a  total  value  of  $511,385;  96  tanneries,  employing  $188,373 
capital,  consuming  raw  material  worth  $129,907,  and  producing  leather 
valued  at  $244,028. 


ILLINOIS.  567 

Internal  Improvements. — In  1836,  when  the  spirit  of  speculation 
was  rife  throughout  our  entire  nation,  Illinois  projected  an  extravagant 
system  of  railroads  and  canals,  which  shortly  resulted  (in  the  monetary 
revulsion  between  1837  and  18-40)  in  a  general  suspension.  Notwith- 
standing, that  spirit  of  enterprise  which  seems  to  grow  from  our  free  sys- 
tem, and  to  be  as  boundless  as  our  extended  Territory,  has  again,  with  more 
rational  views,  stimulated  the  citizens  of  this  State  to  enter  upon  a  still 
more  magnificent  scheme  of  railroads  than  that  projected  in  1836.  Besides 
these,  she  has  completed  her  great  canal,  100  miles  long,  from  Chicago  to 
Peru,  uniting  the  waters  of  Lake  Michigan  with  the  Mississippi  river. 

In  January,  1854,  there  were  in  operation  in  Illinois,  1,262  miles  of 
railroad,  and  2,017  in  course  of  construction.  Chicago  is  at  present  con- 
nected by  railroad,  either  directly  or  indirectly,  with  Detroit,  Cincinnati, 
Boston,  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  and  Beloit,  beyond  the 
State;  and  with  Galena,  Rock  Island,  Peoria,  Springfield,  Urbana,  Alton, 
Cario,  and  intermediate  places  within  the  State.  Besides  these,  railroads 
unite  Cario  with  Illinoistown,  opposite  St.  Louis ;  also  Springfield  with 
Jacksonville,  and  Naples  with  Mendosia.  The  Terre  Haute  and  Alton 
Eailroad  had  30  miles  at  the  eastern,  and  40  miles  at  the  western  end, 
completed  in  November,  1S54 ;  and  it  is  expected  130  miles  of  the  road  will 
be  ready  for  use  in  the  spring  of  1855.  When  the  present  lines  under 
contract  shall  have  been  completed,  (and  they  are  rapidly  progressing,) 
Chicago  will  be  connected  with  every  important  point  in  the  State;  and 
through  other  railways  with  all  the  large  cities  in  the  United  States,  ex- 
cept San  Francisco.  Railroads  connecting  Chicago  with  Madison  and 
Milwaukie,  in  Wisconsin,  are  fast  approaching  completion. 

Commerce. — Illinois  is  most  favorably  situated  for  internal  trade, 
being  able  to  communicate  with  the  western,  southern,  and  central  parts 
of  the  Mississippi  valley,  by  means  of  the  Mississippi,  Missouri,  and 
Ohio  rivers,  and  with  the  northern  and  eastern  States  by  way  of  the  great 
lakes.  The  coastwise  imports  into  Chicago  in  1851,  amounted  to  $24,- 
410,400,  and  exports  to  85,395,471 ;  and  in  the  year  1854,  this  city  ex- 
ported 13,726,728  bushels  of  grain,  believed  to  be  the  greatest  amount 
exported  by  any  city  in  the  world.  Tonnage  of  the  Chicago  district  in 
1853,  27,015  tons,  of  which  1,120  was  steam  tonnage.  In  the  same  year, 
9  vessels  were  built,  whose  burden  was  1,158  tons.  The  foreign  imports 
and  exports  are  trifling,  the  former  amounting,  in  1853,  to  $7,559.  and 
the  latter  to  §79,139.  Tonnage  entered,  2,130,  and  cleared,  2,288. 
Chicago  does  an  immense  business  in  lumber  and  general  trade,  and 
Galena  in  the  lead  trade;  the  former  received,  in  1853,  193.271.241  feet 
of  lumber,  125,638,500  shingles,  and  38,721,371  laths;  and  the  latter 
shipped  in  8  months  of  1852,  295,788  pigs  of  lead.  This  State  packed 
365,784  hogs  in  1853-54. 

Education.— According  to  the  census  of  1850,  there  were  in  Illinois, 
6  colleges,  with  442  students,  and  $13,300  income,  of  which  $4,500  was 
from  endowments;  4,054  public  schools,  with  125,790  pupils,  and  $349,- 
350  income,  of  which  $129,544  was  from  public  funds,  and  $100,694 
from  taxation;  81  academies  and  other  schools,  with  4,179  pupils,  and 
$40,488  income;  and  1S2,292  pupils  attending  schools,  as  returned  by 


568  ILLINOIS. 

families.  According  to  tie  American  Almanac,  Illinois  had,  in  1853,  4 
colleges  with  223  students,  1  medical  college  with  70  students;  and  1 
theological  school. 

The  school  fund  in  1853,  derived  from  the  public  lands,  the  surplu 
revenue  of  the  United  States,  and  from  the  county  and  township  funds 
yielded  an  income  of  $299,017.     On  the  formation  of  the  State  consti 
tution,  one  section  in  each  township  was  appropriated  to  the  support  of 
common  schools,  and  afterwards  an  additional  income  of  3  per  cent,  on 
the  actual  proceeds  from  the  sale  of  the  public  lands  within  the  State. 
One-sixth   of  these  proceeds  is  appropriated  to  the  colleges.     In   1850 
there  were  41,283  adults  in  this  State  who  could  not  read  and  write,  of 
whom  5,917  were  of  foreign  birth. 

Religious  Denominations. — Of  the  1,223  churches  in  Illinois,  in 
1850,  the  Baptists  owned  282,  Christians  69,  Congregationalists  46, 
Dutch  Reformed,  2  Episcopalians  27,  Free  Church  2,  Friends  6,  German 
Reformed  3,  Lutherans  42,  Methodists  405,  Moravians  2,  Presbyterians 
206,  Roman  Catholics  59,  Swedenborgian  1,  Tunker  4,  Union  30,  Uni- 
tarian 4,  Universalists  7,  and  minor  sects  26 — giving  1  church  to  each 
699  persons.     Value  of  church  property,  $1,482,185. 

Periodicals. — There  were  published  in  Illinois,  in  1850,  8  daily,  4 
tri  and  semi-weekly,  and  84  weekly  newspapers;  3  semi-monthly,  7  month- 
ly, and  1  quarterly  magazines,  distributing  annually  5,102,276  copies. 

Public  Institutions. — Illinois  has  a  State  lunatic  asylum  at  Jack- 
sonville, a  State  penitentiary  at  Alton,  and  a  deaf  and  dumb  asylum  at 
Jacksonville,  which  had  109  pupils  in  1853,  94  of  whom  belonged  to  the 
State;  expenses  $19,000  per  annum.  According  to  the  census  of  1850, 
there  were  33  public  libraries  in  Illinois,  with  35,982  volumes;  115 
schools  and  Sunday-shcools,  with  13,704  volumes,  and  4  college  libraries, 
with  7,800  volumes. 

Population. — There  were   in   Illinois  12,282   inhabitants  in  1810; 
55,211  in  1820;  157,445  in  1830;   476,183  in  1840;  and  851,470  in 
1850,  of  whom  445,544  were  white  males,  400,490  white  females;  2,777 
colored  males,  and  2,659  colored  females.     The  ratio  of  increase  in  Illinois 
in  the  last  10  years  preceding  1850  was  nearly  79  per  cent.,  notwithstand- 
ing there  were  in  other  States  about  50,000  citizens  born  in  Illinois. 
This  population  was  divided  among  149,153  families,  occupying  146,544 
dwellings.     Population  to  the  square  mile,  1,537.     Of  the  entire  popula- 
tion, only  333,753  were  born  in  the  State;  402,396  in  other  States  of 
the  Union;  18,628  in  England;  27,786  in  Ireland;  4,661  in  Scotland; 
572  in  Wales;    10,699  in  British  America;    38,160  in  Germany;  3,396 
in  France;    6,691  in   other  countries,  and   3,946  whose  places  of  birth 
were    unknown.     In    the    year  ending  June   1,  1850,  797  paupers  had 
received  support,  of  whom  411  were  foreigners;  11,619  persons  died,  or 
about  14  in  every  1,000.     According  to  the  census  of  1850,  there  were 
365  deaf  and  dumb,  of  whom  2  were  colored;  264  blind,  of  whom  5  were 
colored;  238  insane,  of  whom  2  were  colored;  and  363  idiotic,  of  whom  2 
were  colored.     Of  the  population,  782  were  engaged  in  mining,  105,337  in 
agriculture,  2,506,  in  commerce,  13,185  in  manufactures,  63  in  navigating 
the   ocean,  310  in  internal  navigation,  and  2,021  in  learned  professions. 


ILLINOIS.  569 

Counties. — Illinois  has  100  counties,  viz :  Adams,  Alexander,  Bond, 
Boone,  Brown,  Bureau,  Calhoun,  Carroll,  Cass,  Champaign,  Christian, 
Clarke,  Clay,  Clinton  Coles,  Cook,  Crawford,  Cumberland,  De  Kalb,  De 
Witt,  Du  Page,  Edgar,  Edwards,  Effingham,  Fayette,  Franklin,  Fulton, 
Gallatin,  Green,  Grundy,  Hamilton,  Hancock,  Hardin,  Henderson, 
Henry,  Iroquois,  Jackson,  Jasper,  Jefferson,  Jersey,  Jo  Daviess,  Johnson, 
Kane,  Kankakee,  Kendall,  Knox,  Lake,  La  Salle,  Lawrence,  Lee,  Liv- 
ingston, Logan,  McDonough,  McHcnry,  McLean.  Macon,  Macoupin, 
Madison,  Marion,  Marshall,  Massac,  Mason,  Menard,  Mercer,  Monroe, 
Montgomery,  Morgan,  Moultrie,  Ogle,  Peoria,  Perry,  Piatt,  Pike,  Pope, 
Pulaski,  Putnam,  Randolph,  Richland,  Rock  Island,  St.  Clair,  Saline, 
Sangamon,  Schuyler,  Scott,  Shelby,  Stark,  Stephenson,  Tazewell,  Union, 
Vermilion,  Wabash,  Warren,  Washington,  Wayne,  White,  AVhitesides, 
Williamson,  Winnebago,  and  Woodford.     Capital,  Springfield. 

Cities  and  Towns. — Illinois  has  a  number  of  thriving  towns,  and  so 
rapidly  do  they  increase,  that  the  census  of  1850  will  be  in  many  cases 
far  below  the  truth ;  but,  for  want  of  other  reliable  information  on 
which  to  base  a  comparison  of  the  increase  of  all  the  towns,  it  will  be 
best  to  adhere  to  the  official  statistics.  Chicago  is  the  largest  city — pop- 
ulation, 29,9G3,  (said  to  be  70,000  in  1854;)  Quincey,  6,902;  Galena, 
6,004;  Peoria,  5,095;  (estimated  at  12,000  in  1851;)  Springfield,  4,533; 
and  Alton,  3,585;  besides  Peru,  Rock  Island,  1,711,  (5,337  iu  1854;) 
Bridge  Prairie,  Waukegan,  2,949 ;  Belleville,  2,941;  Jacksonville,  2,- 
745;  Joliet,  2,659;  Elgin,  2,359;  St.  Charles,  2,132;  and  many  other 
flourishing  villages. 

Government. — The  executive  power  in  Illinois  is  lodged  in  a  governor 
and  lieutenant-governor,  elected  by  the  people  for  4  years;  the  former 
receiving  SI, 500  per  annum,  and  the  latter,  who  is  ex-officio  president 
of  the  Senate,  $3  per  day  during  the  session  of  the  legislature.  The 
governor  is  ex-officio  fund  commissioner,  and  is  only  eligible  for  4  years 
out  of  any  8  years.  The  Senate  consists  of  25,  and  the  House  of  Rep- 
resentatives of  75  members,  both  elected  by  the  people,  the  former  for  4, 
and  the  latter  for  2  years.  The  judiciary  consists  of  a  Supreme  Court, 
of  three  divisions,  presided  over  by  as  many  judges,  receiving  each 
81,200  per  annum,  and  15  circuit  courts,  presided  over  by  as  many  judges, 
each  receiving  61,000  per  annum.  All  white  male  citizens,  of  21  years 
of  age,  who  have  resided  in  the  State  six  months  next  preceding  an 
election,  are  qualified  voters.  Illinois  is  entitled  to  9  members  in  the 
national  House  of  Representatives,  and  to  11  electoral  votes  for  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States.  The  State  debt  in  1854  was  315,725,725. 
The  governor  of  the  State,  in  his  message  to  the  legislature,  January, 
1854,  states  the  finances  to  be  in  an  excellent  condition.  Ordinary  ex- 
penses of  government,  8125,000 ;  school  fund,  seminary,  and  university, 
§951,504;  productive  property,  §5,000,000;  assessed  value  of  property 
in  1853,  8224,715,963;  receipts  from  State  and  county  tax,  §1,973,317. 
Illinois  has  a  free-banking  law,  which  requires  that  no  company  shall  go 
into  operation  until  it  has  deposited  stocks  to  the  amount  of  §50,000 
with  the  auditor.  In  1854,  29  banks  were  in  operation,  with  §2,513,790 
capital  paid  in,  §2,283,526  in  circulation,  and  §565,152  in  specie. 


570  ILLINOIS. 

History. — Though  Illinois  did  not  become  a  member  of  the  Ameri- 
can Confederacy  till  1818,  it  colonized  about  the  same  period  as  Phila- 
delphia. Marquette,  a  French  traveler,  visited  it  as  early  as  1673,  and 
settlements  were  made  at  Cahokia  and  Kaskaskia,  at  the  close  of  the 
seventeenth  century.  These,  however,  like  other  French  colonies,  did 
not  increase  rapidly.  At  the  treaty  of  Paris,  in  1763,  Illinois  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  English,  and  came,  with  all  the  territory  east  of  the 
Mississippi,  into  the  possession  of  the  government  of  the  United  States, 
at  the  Revolution,  in  1775.  Soon  after  some  settlers  from  Virginia 
located  themselves  in  the  Territory,  and  in  1787  it  became  a  part  of  the 
North-west  Territory,  then  created,  and  which  included  all  the  country 
north-west  of  the  Ohio  river.  In  1800  it  formed  part  of  a  separate  Ter- 
ritory, under  the  name  of  Indiana,  in  conjunction  with  the  State  now 
bearing  that  name.  A  second  division  took  place  in  1809,  when  the 
present  State  was  organized  as  the  Territory  of  Illinois,  and  in  1818  ad- 
mitted as  an  independent  member  of  the  confederacy,  since  which  it  has 
gone  on  with  an  average  decennial  increase  of  more  than  200  per  cent. 

Chicago. — The  most  populous  and  commercial  city  of  Illinois,  and 
seat  of  justice  of  Cook  county,  is  situated  on  the  south-western  shore  of 
lake  Michigan,  and  on  both  sides  of  Chicago  river,  278  miles,  west  by 
south,  from  Detroit ;  180  miles,  east  by  south,  from  Galena,  and  410 
miles,  by  water,  from  St.  Louis.  Latitude  41°  52'  20"  north,  and  lon- 
gitude 87°  35'  west. 

This  city — the  most  remarkable  in  the  United  States  for  its  rapid 
growth — is  built  on  an  extremely  level  plain,  sufficiently  elevated  to  pre- 
vent inundation,  and  extending  many  miles  towards  the  south  and  west. 
The  adjacent  country  consists  of  beautiful  and  fertile  prairies,  interspersed 
with  groves,  and  diversified  by  gentle  slopes.  Chicago  river,  and  its  north 
and  south  branches,  which  unite  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  the 
lake,  separate  the  city  into  three  portions.  The  main  stream,  flowing 
directly  eastward,  is  from  50  to  75  yards  wide,  and  from  15  to  20  feet 
deep,  and  forms  one  of  the  best  natural  harbors  on  the  lake.  Substantial 
piers  have  been  extended  into  the  lake,  and  a  light-house  erected  on  one 
of  them.  Vessels  ascend  Chicago  river  and  one  of  its  branches  nearly 
5  miles. 

The  city  is  laid  out  in  rectangular  blocks,  with  streets  extending  nearly 
north  and  south,  and  east  and  west.  The  shore  of  the  lake,  and  the 
northern  parts  of  the  city  are  occupied  with  the  finest  residences,  but  the 
principal  business  is  transacted  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  the  banks 
of  the  South  branch  being  lined  with  docks  and  large  warehouses.  Many 
of  the  streets  are  paved  with  planks,  and  lighted  with  gas.  Michigan 
avenue,  which  is,  perhaps,  the  most  beautiful  street  in  the  city,  extends 
along  the  shore  of  the  lake,  and  is  bordered  with  shade-trees.  Next  to, 
and  parallel  with  this,  is  Wabash  avenue,  adorned  with  double  rows  of  trees. 

The  most  remarkable  public  buildings  are  the  new  Court-house,  the 
Merchants'  Exchange,  the  Marine  hospital,  the  Medical  college,  and  the 
Second  Presbyterian  church.  The  Court-house  is  a  splendid  edifice  of 
Lockport  limestone,  having  a  prison  on  the  first  floor,  the  county  offices 
on  the  second,  and  a  court-room  and  town-hall  on  the  third,  with  a  cupola 


ILLINOIS.  571 

and  roof  of  galvanized  iron.  The  Marine  hospital  is  a  spacious  and 
handsome  building,  of  Milwaukie  brick.  The  Second  Presbyterian 
church,  at  the  corner  of  Wabash  and  Washington  streets,'  in  the  gothic 
style,  with  a  steeple  about  200  feet  high,  is  perhaps  the  most  beautiful 
edifice  of  its  class  west  of  New  York.  It  is  built  of  a  kind  of  pitchy 
stone,  in  which  black  and  white  are  mingled,  and  presents  a  singular  and 
striking  appearance.  A  Catholic  cathedral  is  about  being  erected  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  city,  the  cost  of  which,  it  is  estimated,  will  be  from 
$150,000  to  §200,000.  There  are  61  churches  in  the  city,  belonging  to 
the  different  denominations.  Chicago  contains  7  banks,  and  about  20 
printing  offices,  from  which  numerous  daily  and  weekly  journals  are  is- 
sued. The  public  schools  are  well  organized,  and  are  accommodated  with 
excellent  buildings.  There  are  54  schools  of  different  grades.  The 
medical  college  was  founded  in  1842  :  it  has  6  professors,  and  is  attended 
by  about  80  students. 

By  a  glance  at  the  map  of  the  United  States,  the  great  commercial 
advantages  of  Chicago  will  at  once  be  perceived.  It  communicates,  by 
means  of  the  chain  of  lakes,  with  the  Atlantic  cities  ;  the  Illinois  and 
Michigan  canal,  100  miles  long,  affords  an  easy  access  to  the  Mississippi 
valley,  and  to  the  coal-mines  of  central  Illinois;  while  the  Galena  and 
Chicago  railroad  penetrates  to  the  mineral  region  of  Wisconsin  and  Iowa. 
The  Michigan  central  and  Michigan  southern  railroads  were  completed 
to  this  place  in  1852,  opening  a  direct  steam  communication  with  New- 
York  city.  There  are  also  numerous  other  lines  centering  in  this  city, 
among  which  may  be  mentioned  the  Illinois  central,  which  will  extend 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  and  connect  with  the  Mobile  railroad ;  the 
Illinois  and  Wisconsin,  the  Chicago  and  Rock  Island,  the  Chicago  and 
Milwaukie,  etc.  According  to  a  statement  published  in  the  Chicago 
Democratic  Press,  there  are,  in  1854,  either  completed  or  in  course  of 
construction,  14  trunk  and  34  extension  lines  of  railway,  (in  all  7,779 
miles,)  conducting  to  that  city.  Of  these,  1,626  miles  are  in  actual  ope- 
ration, and  46  trains  of  cars  enter  and  leave  Chicago  daily,  to  accommodate 
the  travel  and  commerce. 

Chicago  also  communicates  with  Buffalo  and  intermediate  ports  by  a 
daily  line  of  steamboats,  which,  in  respect  to  size,  speed,  and  comfortable 
accommodations,  are  scarcely  inferior  to  any  in  the  world.  The  number 
of  arrivals  of  steamers  and  sail-vessels  in  1851  was  2,279.  The  tonnage 
in  1852  amounted  to  25,209,  and  in  1854  to  31,041,  enrolled  and  licensed. 
The  aggregate  value  of  exports  and  imports  in  1852  was  estimated  by 
the  Governor  of  Illinois,  in  his  message,  at  $20,000,000.  The  same  doc- 
ument states  that  there  are  211  houses  engaged  in  wholesale  business, 
many  of  which  import  directly  from  Europe,  and  26  forwarding  and  com- 
mission merchants,  doing  a  heavy  business.  The  quantities  of  leading 
articles  received  at  this  place  in  1852,  are  reported  as  follows  : — 2,757,011 
bushels  of  Indian  corn,  937,496  bushels  of  wheat,  124,316  barrels  of 
flour,  24,363  head  of  cattle,  (or  about  13,000,000  pounds  of  beef,)  59,156 
hogs,  (or  about  6,000,000  pounds  of  pork,)  147,816,232  feet  of  boards, 
and  77,000  thousand  shingles.  Chicago  has  become  the  greatest  grain- 
market  in  the  world ;  the  receipts  for  1854  being  2,946,924  bushels  of 


572  ILLINOIS. 

wheat,  6,745,588  of  Indian  corn,  and  4,024,216  of  oats,  rye,  and  barley : 
total,  13,726,728  bushels.  The  receipts  of  lumber  in  1853  were 
193,271,247  feet  of  boards,  125,638  thousand  shingles,  and  38,721,373 
laths. 

About  $2,500,000  are  invested  in  manufactures,  the  most  important 
productions  of  which  are  steam-engines,  railway  cars,  reaping  and  thrash- 
ing machines,  with  other  agricultural  implements,  horse-powers  and  other 
machinery,  stoves,  gas-pipes,  leather,  lumber,  flour,  and  lard  oil.  There 
were,  in  1851,  10  iron  founderies,  with  machine-shops,  which  together 
produced  annually  $241,900  ;  9  manufactories  of  agricultural  implements, 
which  produced  §390,250  ;  5  tanneries,  which  produced  $240,000 ;  10 
manufactories  of  cabinet-ware,  2  or  3  of  railway-cars,  25  of  carriages 
and  wagons,  4  flouring-mills,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of  $155,000,  and 
3  planing-mills.  The  slaughtering  and  beef-packing  business  in  Chicago, 
employs  nearly  $1,000,000  capital,  and  between  500  and  600  persons. 
One  house,  in  the  autumn  of  1853,  paid  $145,000  for  beeves  in  three 
weeks ;  and  up  to  November  17th,  nine  packing  houses,  in  that  city,  had 
already  slaughtered  25,162  cattle,  weighing  14,269,427  pounds.  This 
business  is  rapidly  increasing. 

Chicago  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  lake,  raised  by  steam-power  to 
a  brick  reservoir,  80  feet  in  hight,  situated  at  the  foot  of  Chicago  avenue. 
The  estimated  cost  of  these  works  is  $400,000.  The  Chicago  and  Gralena 
railroad  Company  have  erected  a  fine  depot  for  passengers ;  and  another 
for  freight,  about  300  feet  in  length.  The  Tremont  House,  here,  is  one 
of  the  largest,  as  well  as  one  of  the  best  hotels  in  the  United  States. 
The  assessed  value  of  real  and  personal  estate  in  1854  was  $24,392,240 

Chicago,  which  appears  destined  to  become  the  chief  commercial  em- 
porium of  the  north-west,  in  consequence  of  its  commanding  situation, 
was  settled  about  the  year  1831,  previous  to  which  it  was  a  mere  trading 
post  amidst  the  wigwams  of  the  Indians.  It  was  incorporated  in  1836  ; 
in  1840  it  contained 4,853  inhabitants;  in  1850,29,963;  in  1853,  60,662; 
and  in  1855,  about  80,000,  having  doubled  about  every  four  years. 

Quincy,  a  handsome  town,  capital  of  Adams  county,  lies  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi river,  170  miles  above  St.  Louis,  and  104  miles  west  of  Spring- 
field. It  is  finely  situated  on  a  limestone  bluff,  125  feet  above  the  rivesy 
of  which  it  commands  an  extensive  view.  It  has  a  large  public  square, 
a  good  court-house,  18  churches,  a  United  States  land-office,  and  3  bank.'i 
Seven  newspapers  and  periodicals  are  published  here,  two  of  which  are 
dailies.  Quincy  carries  on  an  active  trade  by  steamboats  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi. It  is  the  terminus  of  the  Military  Tract  Kailroad,  now  in  course 
of  construction,  which  leads  to  Chicago.  The  country  in  the  vicinity  ii: 
a  rich  and  rolling  prairie,  and  one  of  the  most  highly  cultivated  parts  of 
the  State.  Quincy  contained  (in  1853)  5  lumber-yards,  2  large  distille- 
ries, 4  large  founderies,  6  machine  shops,  5  or  6  steam  mills  for  grain,  1. 
steam  saw  mills,  2  planing-machines,  3  door  sash  and  blind,  3  carriage, 
and  3  wholesale  furniture  manufactories,  1  cotton  mill,  besides  numerous 
other  establishments.  Coopering  is  carried  on  very  extensively.  Popu- 
lation in  1840,  about  2,000 ;  in  1850,  6,901 ;  and  by  a  local  census  in 
1854,  10,957. 


ILLINOIS.  573 

Peoria,  a  handsome  and  flourishing  city,  capital  of  Peoria  county,  lies 
on  the  right  or  west  bank  of  the  Illinois  river,  at  the  outlet  of  Peoria 
lake,  70  miles  north  of  Springfield,  and  151  miles  south-west  of  Chicago. 
It  is  the  most  populous  town  on  the  river,  and  one  of  the  most  important 
and  commercial  in  the  State.  The  river  is  navigable  by  steamboats  in 
all  stages  of  water,  and  is  the  channel  of  an  immense  trade  in  grain, 
lumber,  pork,  etc.  A  number  of  steamboats  make  regular  passages 
between  St.  Louis  and  Peoria,  which  also  communicates  with  Chicago, 
by  means  of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal.  The  Peoria  and  Oquawka 
railroad  connects  this  place  with  Burlington,  Iowa,  and  will  be  extended 
east  to  Middleport.  The  town  is  regularly  laid  out  and  well  built.  It 
has,  beside  the  county  buildings,  about  10  churches,  several  seminaries, 
a  telegraph  office,  a  bank,  and  5  newspaper  offices.  We  quote  the  following 
description  from  the  letter  of  a  recent  traveler :  ' '  Peoria  is  the  most  beautiful 
town  on  the  river.  Situated  on  rising  ground,  a  broad  plateau  extending 
back  from  the  bluff,  it  has  escaped  the  almost  universal  inundation. 
The  river  here  expands  into  a  broad,  deep  lake.  This  lake  is  a  most 
beautiful  feature  in  the  scenery  of  the  town,  and  as  useful  as  beautiful, 
supplying  the  inhabitants  with  ample  stores  of  fish,  and  in  winter  with 
abundance  of  the  purest  ice.  It  is  often  frozen  to  such  a  thickness,  that 
heavy  teams  can  pass  securely  over  it.  A  substantial  drawbridge  connects 
the  town  with  the  opposite  shore  of  the  river.  The  city  is  laid  out  in 
rectangular  blocks,  the  streets  being  wide  and  well  graded.  The  schools 
and  churches  are  prosperous,  and  the  society  good.  A  public  square  has 
been  reserved  near  the  center.  Back  of  the  town  extends  one  of  the 
finest  rolling  prairies  in  the  State,  which  already  furnishes  to  Peoria  its 
supplies  and  much  of  its  business."  The  number  of  steamboat  arrivals 
in  1850  was  1,286.  La  Salle,  a  Frenchman,  established  a  post  at  this 
place  in  1680.  The  rise  of  the  present  town  dates  from  April,  1819. 
It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1844.  Population  on  January  1,  1851, 
6,212;  in  1853,  about  8,000. 

Galena,  a  flourishing  city  and  capital  of  Jo  Daviess  county,  lies  on 
Fevre  river,  6  miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  Mississippi  river,  450 
miles  above  St.  Louis,  180  miles  west-north-west  of  Chicago,  and  250 
north  by  west  of  Springfield.  "  The  river  on  whose  rocky  shelf  this 
town  is  built  is  more  properly  an  arm  of  the  Mississippi  river,  setting  up 
between  lofty  bluffs,  around  whose  base  it  winds  with  picturesque  effect. 
The  streets  rise  one  above  another,  and  communicate  with  each  other  by 
flights  of  steps,  so  that  the  houses  on  the  higher  streets  are  perched  like 
an  eagle's  eyrie,  overlooking  the  rest,  and  commanding  an  extensive 
prospect.  Pleasant  churches  meet  the  eye  on  the  first  ledge  or  terrace 
above  the  levee,  and  private  residences,  wearing  an  aspect  of  neatness  and 
comfort,  adorn  each  successive  hight." — (Thompson's  Letters.)  Galena 
owes  its  growth  and  importance  mainly  to  the  rich  mines  of  lead  with 
which  it  is  surrounded  in  every  direction.  Considerable  quantities  of 
copper  are  found  in  connection  with  the  lead.  The  amount  of  lead 
shipped  at  this  place  in  1850  was  40,000,000  pounds,  valued  at  81,600,000 
The  Fevre  river  is  navigable  by  steamboats,  which  make  regular  passages 
from  Galena  to  St.  Louis,  St.  Paul's,  and  other  parts  on  the  Mississippi 


574  INDIANA. 

river.  The  commerce  of  the  place  is  extensive,  and  rapidly  increasing. 
The  total  value  of  exports  in  1851  was  computed  at  $1,800,358.  A  large 
portion  of  Wisconsin,  Iowa,  and  Minnesota  are  tributary  to  this  town. 
It  is  the  western  terminus  of  the  Chicago  and  Galena  railroad,  and  a 
branch  of  the  Central  railroad  connects  it  with  Peru.  Galena  contains 
1  bank  and  3  newspaper  offices.  An  error  in  the  spelling  and  pronoun- 
ciation  of  Fevre  river  (named  from  La  Fevre,  an  early  French  trader,) 
has  given  some  currency  to  an  unfounded  impression  that  the  place  is 
unhealthy.  The  name  of  the  city  is  taken  from  galena,  a  species  of  lead 
ore.     Population  in  1850,  6,00-1;  in  1853,  about  8,000. 

Alton,  a  city  and  port  of  entry,,  Madison  county,  lies  on  the  Missis- 
sippi river,  21  miles  above  St.  Louis,  3  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Missouri,  and  76  miles  south-south-west  of  Springfield.  It  has  a  favor- 
able position  for  trade,  and  its  landing  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  river. 
A  railroad  has  been  completed  from  this  place  to  Springfield,  and  two 
others  are  in  course  of  construction,,  which  will  connect  it  with  Jackson- 
ville, and  with  Terre  Haute,  Indiana.  Alton  contained  but  few  houses 
until  the  penitentiary  was  located  here  in  1832,  since  which  it  has  in- 
creased rapidly.  It  has  wide  streets,  several  public  squares,  and  a  large 
space  along  the  margin  of  the  river  reserved  for  a  public  landing  and 
promenade.  It  contains  about  6  churches,  a  lyceutn,  a  theological  semi- 
nary, and  a  newspaper  office.  Upper  Alton,  1?  or  2  miles  to  the  east,  is 
the  seat  of  Shurtleff  college,  under  the  direction  of  the  Baptists.  Large 
quarries  of  fine  limestone  have  been  opened  near  Alton,  and  stonecoal 
and  timber  are  abundant  ia  the  vicinity.     Population,  3,875. 


INDIANA. 


This  portion  of  the  great  Mississippi  valley  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  Lake  Michigan  and  the  State  of  Michigan,  east  by  Ohio,  south  by 
Kentucky,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Ohio  river,  and  west  by 
Illinois,  from  which  it  is  partly  separated  by  the  Wabash  river.  It  lies 
between  37°  45'  and  41°  52'  north  latitude,  being  about  275  miles  in  its 
greatest  length  from  north  to  south,  and  about  135  miles  in  width, 
forming  nearly  a  parallelogram,  and  including  33,809  square  miles,  or 
21,637,760  acres,  only  5,045,453  of  which  are  improved,  leaving  three- 
fourths  of  this  fertile  State  uncultivated.  When  we  take  into  consider- 
ation that  the  million  of  inhabitants  who  possess  the  cultivated  portion 


INDIANA.  575 

are  far  from  densely  settled,  we  arrive  at  conclusions  foreshadowing  the 
the  immense  population  that  must  one  day  occupy  the  great  Mississippi 
valley. 

Face  of  the  Country. — Indiana  has  no  great  mountains  or  great 
elevations;  but  portions  south  of  the  White  river  are  somewhat  hilly  and 
rugged.  A  low  ridge  from  Kentucky  extends  in  a  north-west  direction 
across  the  Ohio,  White,  and  Wabash  rivers,  causing  rapids  in  each. 
North  of  the  White  and  Wabash  rivers,  (forming  much  the  larger  part 
of  the  State.)  the  country  is  generally  level,  or  slightly  undulating.  Most 
of  the  rivers  have  rich  alluvial  bottoms  of  a  few  miles  in  width.  A  range 
of  hills  runs  along  the  Ohio,  sometimes  approaching,  and  at  others 
receding  from  the  river,  forming  in  the  south-west  an  exceedingly  broken 
and  rocky  country.  In  the  north-west  part  is  some  land  heavily  tim- 
bered with  walnut,  beech,  maplsf  buckeye,  etc.,  with  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  the  richest  prairie  land.  Immediately  bordering  on  Lake  Michigan 
are  some  sandhills  about  200  feet  in  hight,  behind  which  is  a  region 
covered  with  pine.  The  north-east  part  of  Indiana  is  also  heavily  tim- 
bered, interspersed  with  prairie,  barrens,  and  marsh  lands.  The  most 
of  the  streams  empty  into  the  Ohio,  showing  a  general  inclination  of  the 
surface  in  that  direction. 

Minerals. — Indiana  has  beds  of  coal  within  her  limits  estimated  to 
be  capable  of  yielding  50,000,000  bushels  to  the  square  mile.  One  coal 
deposit  commences  near  the  Ohio,  in  Perry  county,  and  extends  north- 
west about  150  miles  into  Vermilion  county.  Taylor  computes  the  area 
of  the  coal  field  of  this  State  at  7,700  square  miles.  Coal  deposits  have 
this  year  (1854)  been  discovered  under  the  town  of  Evansville,  which 
give  promise  of  great  richness.  Beside  coal,  Indiana  contains  iron,  some 
copper,  lime,  marble,  freestone,  gypsum,  and  grindstones.  In  1850 
about  $172,000  were  invested  in  forges,  furnaces,  etc.,  for  the  working 
of  iron. 

Rivers,  Lakes,  etc. — Lake  Michigan  borders  on  the  north-west  por- 
tion of  Indiana  for  about  40  miles,  and  opens  to  it  the  trade  of  the  great 
lakes.  There  are  a  number  of  small  lakes  in  the  north  part  of  the  State. 
The  Ohio  forms  the  entire  southern  boundary  of  Indiana,  and  give? 
access  to  the  commerce  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  valleys.  The  Wauasn 
is  the  largest  river  that  has  its  course  mainly  within  the  State,  of  whose 
surface,  with  its  branches,  it  drains  three-fourths.  It  rises  in  the  west 
of  Ohio,  and  flowing  north-west,  and  then  south-west  across  the  State, 
meets  the  boundary  of  Illinois,  which  it  follows  for  more  than  100  miles, 
till  it  discharges  its  waters  into  the  Ohio,  after  a  total  course  of  about 
500  miles,  (including  its  windings,)  400  of  which  may  be  navigated  by 
steamboats  at  high  water.  At  low  water  its  channel  is  obstructed  by 
bars  and  ledges  of  rocks  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  White  river,  its 
principal  tributary.  The  latter  rises  in  two  branches  in  the  east  part  of 
the  State,  flows  south-west,  and  unites  about  30  miles  from  the  Wabash. 
The  course  of  the  largest  branch  (the  West  fork)  is  about  200  miles. 
It  is  navigable  in  the  season  of  floods  to  Indianapolis,  140  miles  from  its 
mouth.  The  Maumee  is  formed  by  the  St.  Joseph's  and  St.  Mary's,  in 
the  north-east  part  of  Indiana,  and  passes  off  into  Ohio.  The  Kankakee, 
37 


576 


INDIANA. 


one  of  the  sources  of  the  Illinois,  drains  the  north-west  portion  of  the 
State.  The  upper  St.  Joseph's  makes  a  hend  into  Indiana  from  Michi- 
gan, to  which,  after  a  course  of  about  30  miles,  it  returns.  Some 
branches  of  the  Ohio  and  Wabash  form  the  other  principal  streams. 

Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists. — There  are  a  number  of  caves  in 
this  State.  Wyandotte  cave,  in  Crawford  county,  11  miles  from  Cory- 
don,  is  said  to  rival  the  Mammoth  cave,  in  Kentucky,  in  extent  and 
interest.  Previous  to  1850,  the  cave  had  been  explored  for  3  miles. 
In  that  year  new  chambers  and  galleries  were  discovered,  more  extensive 
than  the  old,  and  abounding  in  stalactites  and  other  calcareous  concre- 
tions, some  of  great  size  and  splendor.  Epsom  Salts  Cave,  on  the  Big 
Blue  river,  is  in  the  side  of  a  hill  400  feet  high.  About  2,500  yards 
from  the  entrance  is  a  white  column,  15  feet  in  diameter,  30  in  hight, 
regularly  fluted,  and  surrounded  by  smaller  and  similar  columns.  The 
earth  of  the  floor  yields  Epsom  salts,  nitre,  aluminous  earth,  and  gypsum. 
There  is  within  a  rude  painting  of  an  Indian  on  the  rock.  There  are  a 
number  of  mounds  scattered  over  the  State,  similar  to  those  described  in 
Ohio. 

Climate,  Soil,  and  Productions. — The  climate  of  Indiana  partakes 
of  the  general  character  of  the  Western  States  north  of  the  Ohio;  that 
is  to  say,  somewhat  milder  than  on  the  Atlantic  coasts,  but  subject  to 
sudden  changes.  The  cold  of  winter  is  severe,  but  of  comparatively  short 
duration;  the  snow  does  not  generally  fall  to  a  great  depth,  or  lie  very 
long,  though  there  is  considerable  difference  in  this  respect  between  the 
northern  and  southern  parts  of  the  State.  The  earlier  fruits  blossom  in 
March,  but  are  liable  to  be  injured  by  frosts.  The  soil  is  generally  good, 
and  much  of  it  highly  fertile.  The  richest  lands  are  found  in  the  river- 
bottoms,  where  the  soil  is  very  deep.  This  is  especially  the  case  in  the 
valleys  of  the  Wabash  and  its  tributaries  above  Terre  Haute  and  in  parts 
of  the  Ohio  valley.  The  country  between  the  rivers  is  somewhat 
elevated,  and  not  so  luxuriantly  fertile  as  on  the  river  bottoms,  but  amply 
repays  the  labors  of  the  husbandman.  Indeed,  there  is  very  little  of  this 
State  uncultivated;  even  its  wet  and  marshy  lands  will,  no  doubt,  at 
some  future  day,  when  the  density  of  population  and  cheapness  of  labor 
may  warrant  it,  become  as  productive  as  most  of  the  other  lands  in  the 
State.  Indiana  ranks  fourth  of  the  States  of  the  Union  in  the  absolute 
amount  of  Indian  corn  raised,  and  third  as  respects  population.  It  also 
produces  large  quantities  of  wheat,  oats,  with  Irish  potatoes,  fruit,  butter, 
and  live  stock,  besides  considerable  rye,  barley,  buckwheat,  sweet  potatoes, 
tobacco,  wool,  peas,  beans,  cheese,  grass-seeds,  flax,  hops,  maple-sugar, 
molasses,  beeswax  and  honey,  and  some  wine,  hemp,  and  silk.  In  1850, 
there  were  in  Indiana  98,396  farms,  occupying  5,046,543  acres  of  im- 
proved land,  (averaging  about  50  acres  to  each  plantation,)  and  producing 
6,214,458  bushels  of  wheat,  52,964,363  of  Indian  corn,  5,655,014  of 
oats,  78,792  of  rye,  35,773  of  peas  and  beans,  2,083,337  of  Irish  pota- 
toes, 201,711  of  sweet  potatoes,  45,483  of  barley,  149,740  of  buckwheat, 
30,271  of  grass-seeds,  1,044,620  pounds  of  tobacco,  2,610,287  of  wool, 
12,881,535  of  butter,  624,564  of  cheese,  403,230  tons  of  hay,  92,796 
pounds  of  hops,  584,469  of  flax,  2,921,192  of  maple-sugar,  (fourth  in 


INDIANA.  577 

amount  of  the  United  States,)  935,329  of  beeswax  and  honey,  14,055 
gallons  of  wine,  180,325  of  molasses;  live  stock  valued  at  $22,478,555, 
orchard  products  at  §324,940,  market  products  at  $72,864,  and  slaugh- 
tered animals  at  $6,567,936. 

Forest  Trees. — Indigenous  to  Indiana  are  various  species  of  oaks, 
poplar,  ash,  walnut,  hickory,  elm,  cherry,  sugar-maple,  buckeye,  beech, 
and  some  sassafras,  lime,  locust,  sycamore,  cottonwood,  hackberry,  and 
mulberry  in  the  bottom-lands.  The  fruits  common  to  the  latitude  thrive 
in  Indiana. 

Manufactures. — Though  not  yet  largely  engaged  in  manufacturing 
industry,  Indiana  has  every  facility,  in  the  abundance  of  her  water- 
power  and  the  cheapness  of  her  coal,  to  become  a  manufacturing  State 
when  it  may  become  advantageous  for  her  so  to  do.  There  were,  in 
1850,  in  this  State,  4,326  manufacturing  establishments,  each  producing 
$500  and  upwards  annually,  of  which  2  were  cotton  mills,  employing 
$43,000  capital,  and  38  male  and  57  female  hands,  consuming  raw  mate- 
rial valued  at  $28,220,  and  producing  stuffs  and  yarns  worth  $44,200 ; 
33  woolen  mills,  employing  $171,545,  and  189  male  and  57  female 
hands,  consuming  raw  material  worth  $120,486,  and  producing  235,500 
yards  of  stuffs,  and  104,000  pounds  of  yarn,  valued  at  $205,802;  19 
furnaces,  forges,  etc.,  employing  $171,900  capital,  and  253  male  hands, 
consuming  raw  material  worth  $95,743,  and  producing  3,782  tons  of  cast, 
wrought,  and  pig  iron,  valued  at  $219,190 ;  358  tanneries,  employing 
$514,897  capital,  consuming  raw  material  worth  $405,838,  and  producing 
leather  valued  at  $714,813 ;  and  $334,950  invested  in  the  manufacture 
of  malt  liquors,  whisky,  wine,  etc.,  consuming  118,150  bushels  of  barley, 
1,417,900  of  Indian  corn,  48,700  of  rye,  1,000  of  oats,  and  18  tons  of 
hops,  and  employing  287  hands,  and  producing  11,005  barrels  of  beer, 
ale,  etc.,  and  4,639,900  gallons  of  whisky,  wine,  etc.  Home-made  manu- 
factures were  produced,  valued  at  $1,631,039. 

Internal  Improvements. — Indiana  is  among  the  leading  States  of 
the  great  Mississippi  valley  in  works  of  internal  improvement.  In 
August,  1854,  there  were  within  her  limits  1,278  miles  of  railroad  com- 
pleted, 1,592  in  course  of  construction,  and  732  were  projected.  So 
rapid  is  her  progress  in  this  respect,  that  any  correct  account  of  her  rail- 
roads one  year  would  be  antedated  the  next.  Railways,  centering  in  In- 
dianapolis, branch  off  in  all  directions,  uniting  the  capital  more  or  less 
directly,  with  Chicago,  Cleveland,  Detroit,  Columbus,  (Ohio,)  Pittsburg, 
and  Cincinnati,  beyond  the  State,  and  with  Madison,  New  Albany, 
Evansville,  Terre  Haute,  Lafayette,  Peru,  Michigan  City,  and  various 
minor  points  within  the  State.  The  Central  Michigan  has  40,  and  the 
Southern  Michigan  and  North  Indiana  railroad,  120  miles  of  their  tracks 
in  this  State.  The  roads  in  progress,  or  projected  in  or  through  this  State, 
will  connect  Cincinnati  with  St.  Louis  and  Hannibal,  Missouri,  with  Bur- 
lington, Iowa,  with  Rock  Island,  with  Chicago,  (more  directly,)  with  Fort 
Wayne,  and  with  Detroit  and  intermediate  points.  According  to  De  Bow's 
Magazine  for  December,  1854,  Indiana  had  367  miles  of  canal,  viz. :  the 
greater  portion  of  the  Wabash  and  Erie,  uniting  Toledo  (Ohio)  with  Terre 
Haute,  and  the  Lawrenceburg  and  Cambridge  City  canals.  There  is  scarcely 


578  INDIANA. 

a  place  of  any  considerable  importance  in  Indiana  that  is  not,  directly  or 
indirectly,  connected  with  the  large  cities  of  the  Eastern,  Middle,  and 
Western  States;  and  the  railroads  in  course  of  construction  are  daily  short- 
ening these  distances,  and  making  them  more  direct.  The  receipts  from  the 
Wabash  and  Erie  canal,  in  1852^  were  $460,452  ;  expenditures,  $409,621. 
Commerce. — Indiana  has  no  foreign  commerce,  but  an  active  lake 
and  river  trade  with  New  Orleans  and  the  various  points  of  the  Missis- 
sippi and  Ohio  Valleys,  by  the  rivers  of  the  same  name,  and  with  New 
York  by  the  lakes,  though  for  the  most  part  in  vessels  owned  in  other 
States.  A  want  of  statistics  does  not  enable  us  to-do  justice  to  the  trade 
of  Indiana.  Tonnage  in  1853,  of  New  Albany,  3,843;  vessels  built  iu 
the  State,  9  of  3,445  tons  burden.  The  great  objects  of  export  are  cattle, 
hogs,  and  other  live  stock;  pork,  beef,  lard,  Indian  corn,  wheat,  and 
wool.     Hogs  packed  in  1853-54,  619,176. 

Education. — Indiana  has  a  school  fund  derived  from  several  sources, 
which  Gov.  Wright,  in  his  message  of  December,  1853,  estimates  at 
$4,988,988.  It  is  made  up  of  the  congressional  township  fund,  surplus 
revenue,  Saline,  aud  bank  tax  funds,  constantly  augmenting,  from 
fines,  forfeitures,  and  the  profits  of  the  sinking  fund,  more  than  $1,000,000 
of  which  is  not  at  present  available.  The  receipts  from  the  university 
fund  for  1852,  were  $15,528;  and  from  the  common  school  fund,  $73,839. 
There  were  expended  for  the  Indiana  University  in  the  same  year, 
$16,361.  The  Constitution  provides  for  the  election  by  the  people  of 
a  superintendent  of  public  schools,  to  hold  office  for  two  years.  The 
number  of  children  in  the  schools,  in  1851,  was  225,318,  or  nearly  one- 
fourth  of  the  inhabitants.  According  to  the  census  of  1850,  there  were 
11  colleges  with  1,069  students,  and  $43,350  income,  of  which  $14,000 
was  from  endowments ;  4,822  public  schools  with  161,500  pupils,  and 
with  $314,467  income,  of  which  $134,078  was  from  public  funds, 
$74,258  from  taxation,  and  $10,630  from  endowments;  131  academies 
and  other  schools,  with  6,185  pupils,  and  $63,520  income,  and  220,961 
attending  school,  as  returned  by  fimilies.  Of  the  adult  population, 
72,710  could  not  read  and  write,  of  whom  3,265  were  of  foreign  birth. 
Religious  Denominations. — Of  the  2,032  churches  in  Indiana,  in 
1850,  the  different  sects  of  Baptists  owned  428 ;  the  Christian  Church, 
187;  Episcopalian,  24;  Free  Church,  10;  Friends,  89;  Lutherans,  63; 
Methodists,  778;  Moravians,  57 ;  Presbyterians,  282 ;  Roman  Catholics, 
63;  and  Universalists,  15;  the  rest  belong  to  the  Benevolent  Church, 
Congregationalists,  Dutch  and  German  Reformed,  New  Lights,  Seceders, 
Tunkers,  Union  Church,  and  Unitarians;  giving  one  Church  to  every 
487  persons.     Value  of  church  property,  $1,529,585. 

Periodicals. — There  were  published  in  Indiana,  in  1850,  9  daily,  2 
tri  and  semi-weekly,  95  weekly,  and  1  semi-monthly  periodicals ;  with  a 
total  annual  circulation  of  4,316,828  copies. 

Public  Institutions. — Indiana  stands  among  the  first  of  the  Western 
States  in  provision  for  the  unfortunate.  There  are  at  Indianapolis 
asylums  for  the  deaf  and  dumb,  blind  and  insane;  and  the  constitution 
directs  the  erection  of  houses  of  refuge  for  the  reformation  of  juvenile 
criminals.     In  November,  1852,  there  were  121  pupils  in  the  deaf  and 


INDIANA.  579 

dumb,  and  42  in  the  blind  asylum.  In  the  same  year  the  insane  hospi- 
tal had  159  patients,  and  102  discharged  cured.  This  institution  was 
opened  in  1848.  All  the  deaf  and  dumb  between  the  ages  of  10  and  30, 
and  all  blind  children  of  the  State  may,  if  they  choose,  receive  a  gratui- 
tous education.  The  different  benevolent  institutions  received  from  the 
State,  in  the  year  ending  November,  1852,  appropriations  amounting  to 
§103,560,21.  The  State  Prison  at  Jeffersonville  had,  in  November, 
1852,  217  convicts  confined  within  its  walls,  of  whom  53  were  of  foreign 
birth.  There  were,  in  1850,  58  public  libraries,  with  46,238  volumes; 
88  school  and  Sunday-school,  with  13,065;  4  colleges,  with  8,700,  and  1 
church  library,  with  400  volumes.  Indiana  has  a  Historical  Society, 
established  in  1830. 

Population. — There  were  in  Indiana,  4,875  inhabitants  in  1800; 
24,520  in  1810;  147,178  in  1820;  343,031  in  1830;  685,866  in  1840; 
and  988,393  in  1850;  of  whom  506,178  were  white  males,  470,976  white 
females ;  5,715  colored  males,  and  5,547  colored  females.  There  were 
also,  in  1850,  171,564  families,  inhabiting  170,178  dwellings.  Popula- 
tion to  the  square  mile,  2,924.  Of  the  entire  population,  525,732  were  born 
in  the  State,  404,726  in  other  States  of  the  Union  5,550  in  England, 
12,787  in  Ireland,  1,510  in  Scotland  and  Wales,  1,878  in  British 
America,  28,584  in  Germany,  2,279  in  France,  1,838  in  other  countries, 
and  2,598  whose  places  of  birth  were  unknown.  In  the  year  ending 
June  1st,  in  1850,  there  occurred  12,808  deaths,  or  about  13  in  every 
thousand  persons,  and  in  the  same  period,  1,182  paupers  received  aid,  of* 
whom  322  were  foreigners,  at  an  expense  of  nearly  $50  to  the  individual. 
There  were  at  the  same  time  353  blind,  of  whom  12  were  colored ;  537 
deaf  and  dumb,  of  whom  4  were  colored ;  563  insane,  of  whom  7  were 
colored,  and  938  idiots,  of  whom  13  were  colored  persons.  Of  the  pop- 
ulation, 233  were  engaged  in  mining,  148,806  in  agriculture  3,076  in 
commerce,  20,590  in  manufactures,  89  in  navigating  the  ocean,  627  in 
internal  navigation,  and  2,257  in  the  learned  professions. 

Counties. — Indiana  is  divided  into  91  counties,  viz:  Adams,  Allen, 
Bartholomew,  Benton,  Blackford,  Boone,  Brown,  Carroll,  Cass,  Clark, 
Clay,  Clinton,  Crawford,  Daviess,  Dearborn,  Decatur,  De  Kalb,  Delaware, 
Du  Bois,  Elkhart,  Fayette,  Floyd,  Fountain,  Franklin,  Fulton,  Gibson, 
Grant,  Greene,  Hamilton,  Hancock,  Harrison,  Hendricks,  Henry,  Howard, 
Huntington,  Jackson,  Jasper,  Jay,  Jefferson,  Jennings,  Johnson,  Knox, 
Kosciusco,  La  Grange,  Lake,  Laporte,  Lawrence,  Madison,  Marion,  Mar- 
shall, Martin,  Miami,  Monroe,  Montgomery,  Morgan,  Noble,  Ohio,  Orange, 
Owen,  Parke,  Perry,  Pike,  Porter,  Posey,  Pulaski,  Putnam,  Randolph, 
Ripley,  Rush,  Scott,  Shelby,  Spencer,  Stark,  Steuben,  St.  Joseph,  Sulli- 
van, Switzerland,  Tippecanoe,  Tipton,  Union,  Vanderburgh,  Vermilion, 
Vigo,  Wabash,  Warren,  Warwick,  Washington,  Wayne,  Wells,  White, 
and  Whitley.     Capital,  Indianapolis. 

Cities  and  Towns. — New  Albany  is  the  largest  town;  population 
in  1850,  8,181;  the  other  principal  towns  are  Madison,  population,  8,012; 
Indianapolis,  8,091;  Fort  Wayne,  about  4,282;  Terre  Haute,  about 
4,051 ;  Lafayette,  6,129;  Evansville,  3,235,  besides  a  number  of  other 
towns  between  1,000  and  2,000  each.     According  to  the  Indiana  State 


580  INDIANA. 

Sentinel,  the  population  of  New  Albany,  Indianapolis,  Madison.  Evans- 
ville,  and  Lavfavette.  in  1554.  were  respectively,  in  the  order  named, 
17.000;  16.000;'  14.000;  10,000,  and  9,000. 

Government. — The  Governor  and  Lieutenant  Governor,  are  both 
elected  by  the  people  for  3  years.  The  former,  who  receives  SI. 500 
per  annum,  can  only  be  elected  once  in  any  period  of  six  years.  The 
:r  is  ex-offieio  president  of  the  Senate,  and  receives  63  per  day  during 
the  sessions  of  the  Legislature.  The  Senate  consists  of  50,  and  the 
House  of  Representatives  of  100  members,  both  elected  by  the  people ; 
the  former  for  four,  and  the  latter  for  one  year.  The  secretary  of  State, 
auditor,  superintendent  of  public  schools,  and  treasurer,  are  each  chosen 
by  the  people  for  two  years.  The  judiciary  consists  of  a  supreme  court, 
composed  of  not  less  than  three,  or  more  than  five  judges,  elected  by  the 
people  for  six  years  ;  and  cf  thirteen  circuit  courts,  presided  over  by  judges 
elected  by  the  people  of  each  district,  for  six  years.  The  judges  of  the 
supreme  court  receive  81,300  per  annum.  Justices  of  the  peace  are 
chosen  by  the  people  of  each  township  for  four  years.  Any  voter  of 
good  moral  character  may  practice  law.  and  any  white  male  of  21  years 
of  age,  born  in  the  United  States,  or  any  foreigner,  resident  of  the 
United  States  one  year,  and  who  has  declared  his  intention,  according  to 
law.  of  becoming  a  citizen,  may  vote,  after  six  months'  residence  in  the 
State.  Indiana  is  entitled  to  11  members  in  the  National  House  of 
Representatives,  and  13  electoral  votes  for  president  of  the  Lnited  Sta:  -. 

Banks.  Finances. — The  State  debt,  principal  and  interest,  in  1847, 
was  814.374,640;  but  by  an  act  of  the  legislature  of  that  year,  the 
bondholders  took  the  State's  interest  in  the  "Wabash  and  Erie  Canal, 
which  they  were  to  finish  for  half  this  debt,  while  the  State  should  issue 
new  certificates  for  the  other  half.  In  1853,  the  State  liabilities  were 
$6,805,435.  In  January,  1854.  there  were  44  banks,  with  an  aggregate 
capital  of  85,524.552,  a  circulation  of  S7,116,S27,  and  81.82U.760  in 
coin.  The  free-banking  law  prevails  in  this  State.  The  assessed 
value  of  property  in  1860  was  8152.870,339;  the  public  debt,  June 
30,  1853,  was  87.712.8S0.  The  expenses,  exclusive  of  debt  and 
schools,  benevolent  institutions,  etc.,  were  8150,000.  Receipts  for  the 
v-ir  ending  November  1,  1853,  81,620,943,74,  and  expenditures, 
81.509,305.32. 

History. — Indiana  was  settled  in  the  early  part  of  the  eighteenth 
century  by  the  French,  who  remained  here,  without  much  accession  to 
their  numbers,  till  long  after  the  close  of  the  American  Revolution. 
Like  other  French  settlements,  they  were  nearly  stationary,  as  far  as 
regarded  increase  from  without,  until  the  arrival  of  the  Americans 
among  them:  enj^vins  life  with  the  characteristic  cheerfulness  of  their 
nation,  and  mingling  with  the  neighboring  savages,  not  only  on  terms 
of  amity,  but  sometimes  forming  matrimonial  alliances  with  them.  In 
1800,  Indiana  became,  in  conjunction  with  Illinois,  a  territorial  govern- 
ment, and  in  1816.  an  independent  member  of  the  confederacy.  In  18x1, 
the  savages  of  the  Shawnee  tribe,  led  on  by  their  prophet,  and  incited,  it 
is  said,  by  the  British,  who  put  arms  into  their  hands,  attacked  the 
American   settlements,    and   committed    great   depredations.      General 


INDIANA.  5  : 1 

Harrison  being  sent  a_  .     -    -hem.  routed  them  completely  at  Tippecanoe 
but  with  the  loss  of  100  of  his  own  b     ;  - 

Indianapolis,  the  capital  of  Indiana,  and  seat  of  justice  of  Man  ■ 
county,  on  the  West  Fork  of  White  riv^r.  at  the  cross: :.  _  ie  national 

road,  and  immediately  below  the  mouth  of  Fall  creek.  109  miles  ne- 
west of  Cincinnati,    and  86    mi!   -  :.   .-:.."•:      I    M    ]  ion.      Latitude 
o'Jz    46'  north,  longitude    -       "         ••      I:    ;-    -  i  in  a  fenih-  and 

atensive  plain,  very  nearly  equidistant  from  the  several  bo^ai..:.  9  of 
the  State.     When  thi-  -  .d  for  the   aq  I   Indi 

182       he   whole  country  for  40   miles  in   every  direction  was   covered 
with  a  dense  forest.     On  the  1st  of  January.  1825.  the  public  offices    : 
State  were    removed  from   Corydon.  and  the   Mai     I    ..rename   "  erai 
permanently  established  here.     Ike  -t:         ■     orally  cross  each  other  at 
right  angl .  -      i  ...   I  diagonal  st:  — hich.  converge  to  a  circular 

area  in  the  center  of  the  town.  The  principal  public  buildings  are  on 
Washington  street,  which  is  12'.'  feet  wide.      Seven]  -         -  are  90 

:  wide.     The  State-house,  erected  it  a  cos:  of  8  is  an  el  rant 

buildine.  surmounted  bv  a  dome,  and  having  1<J  I  r  .umns  on  each. 
front.  Its  dimensions  ar^  18  feet  long  y  -  wide.  Among  the  -  ablic 
buildings  may  be  mentioned  the  governor's  house,  the  court-h.use,  a 
large  Masonic  hall,  the  Bates  house,  the  largest  hotel  in  the  State 
many  other  hoteis.  2  market  houses,  and  the  de*  >t  of  the  Madison  and 
Indianapolis  railroad.  350  feet   long,  by  56  wide.     In  1833,  there  tt 

churches,  and  3  others  in   course  of  construction.     Indianapolis  is 
said  to  contain  a  greater  number  of  ehure'a        .     :       ci  tta  popu- 

lation than  any  other  city  in  the  Union.  A  State  lunatic  hospital 
was  established  here  in  1848,  and  in  1853  had  163  patients.  Indianapo- 
lis is  also  the  seat  of  the  Indiana  Central  Medical  . ..-.  _e.  :  anded  in 
1849.     In    1852  it  had  8  p:  E  0  students.     Great  ■ttrntioa 

is  paid  to  education,  and  the  public  schools  are  in  a  very  flourishing 
condition.  There  are  2  banks,  and  seven  or  eight  newspapers  are 
published  here,  one  of  which  is  a  daily.  T_e  .::  .  ntaiae  several  iroai 
founderies.  flouring  mills,  and  manufactor: . a  :  ft  ._.-...  -  t  toer, 
window  -  -  -...a",  tber  articlrs.  Iniiaaar  .".is  is  Ike  benaiaaa  afaevoi 
railroads,  viz..  the  Madison  and  Indianapolis,  opened  in  1847.  tie 
Lafayette,  the  Terre  Haute  and  Indianapolis,  the  Indiana  Central,  tike 
Indianapolis  and  Beliefontaine,  the  Peru  and  Indianapolis,  and  the 
Lawrenceburg  and  Upper  M  -  pi  railroad.  Population  in  184 
2.692:  in  18S      3,090;  in  1853.  about  12.i 

Maiison  is    a  flourishing   city,    river-port,  and    seat  of  justice    of 
Jefferson  county,  on  the  Ohio  river,  90  miles  below  Cincinnati,  44  n 
above  Louisville,  and  S6  miles  south-south-east  of  Indianapolis,  in  latitude 

^:   4o'  north,    longitude  85c  21' west.     It  is  advantageously  situ_ 
for  trade,  and  is    equal,  if  not   superior  to  any  town  of  the   State   in 
population  and  importance.     Steamboats  ncak-  regular  passages  between 
this  p.rt  and  other  towns  of  the  Mississ  pp.i  The   navigation  is 

usually  open  all  winter  in  ordinary  aeaaoaa  Several  steamboats  are 
owned  here.  Madison  is  the  south  terminus  of  the  Madison  and 
Indianapolis  railroad,  which  was  completed  in  1848.  and  doing  a  large 


582  INDIANA. 

business  in  conveying  freight  and  passengers.  The  city  is  beautifully 
situated  in  a  valley  nearly  3  miles  in  length,  which  is  enclosed  on  the 
north  by  steep  and  rugged  hills  about  400  feet  high.  The  site  is  elevated 
30  or  40  feet  above  the  highest  floods.  Madison  is  well  built,  con- 
taining a  larger  proportion  of  brick  houses  than  is  usual  in  the  towns 
of  Indiana.  It  has  a  court-house,  a  jail,  2  market-houses,  1  bank,  2 
large  public  schools,  and  about  15  churches.  There  are  4  or  5  news- 
papers published  here.  Several  of  the  streets  are  paved,  and  lighted 
with  gas.  A  considerable  amount  of  capital  and  labor  is  employed  in 
manufactures  of  cotton,  wool,  iron,  machinery,  and  oil,  and  the  estab- 
lishments for  packing  pork  are  very  extensive.  First  settled  in  1808. 
Population  in  1840,  3,798;  in  1850,  including  North  Madison  village, 
8,681 ;  in  1853,  about  12,000. 

New  Albany,  capital  of  Floyd  county,  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Ohio  river,  2  miles  below  the  Falls,  3  miles  below  Louisville,  and  136 
miles  below  Cincinnati.  Latitude  38°  18'  north,  longitude  85°  51'  west. 
It  is  the  southern  terminus  of  the  New  Albany  and  Salem  railroad, 
which  extends  to  Michigan  City,  287  miles,  having  recently  been  com- 
pleted. It  is  remarkable  for  its  rapid  growth  and  active  trade;  in  fact, 
it  may  be  considered  the  most  commercial  town  in  the  State  excepting 
Madison,  which  contains  a  nearly  equal  population.  Steamboats  arrive 
and  depart  daily  to  all  points  on  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi.  The  streets 
are  wide  and  straight,  and  furnished  with  pleasant  sidewalks.  The  town 
contains  about  12  churches,  a  collegiate  institute,  a  Presbyterian  theo- 
logical seminary,  2  banks,  and  2  printing  offices.  Two  newspapers  are 
published  here.  Steamboat  building  is  carried  on  more  extensively  here 
than  at  any  other  place  on  the  Ohio,  scarcely  excepting  Cincinnati;  there 
are  also  manufactories  of  iron,  brass,  bagging,  etc.  A  plank  road,  20 
miles  long,  extends  from  New  Albany  to  Corydon.  Laid  out  in  1813. 
About  1,640  buildings  have  been  erected  in  the  city  within  the  last  year. 
Population  in  1840,  4,226;  in  1850,  8,181;  in  the  beginning  of  1854, 
about  14,000. 

Fort  Wayne,  a  flourishing  town,  capital  of  Allen  county,  is  situated 
at  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Joseph's  and  St.  Mary's  rivers,  which  form 
the  Maumee,  and  on  the  "Wabash  and  Erie  canal,  122  miles  east-north- 
east of  Lafayette,  and  112  miles  north-east  of  Indianapolis.  Fort  Wayne 
is  a  town  of  rapid  growth,  and  is  one  of  the  most  important  places  in  the 
State.  It  is  the  western  terminus  of  the  Ohio  and  Indiana  railroad 
which  connects  with  the  Ohio  and  Pennsylvania  railroad  at  Crestline, 
and  is  to  be  extended  westward  to  Chicago.  When  this  road  is  finished, 
Fort  Wayne  will  be  connected  with  Philadelphia  by  a  continuous  line  of 
railways  more  than  600  miles  in  length.  Another  railroad  is  in  course 
of  construction  to  Muncie.  Several  plank-roads  lead  from  this  place  to 
different  parts  of  the  State  and  of  Ohio.  It  has  8  churches,  a  bank,  a 
Methodist  female  college,  and  2  newspaper  offices.  The  surrounding  re- 
gion is  highly  productive,  and  a  large  portion  of  the  land  is  under  culti- 
vation. On  the  site  of  the  town  was  the  old  "  Twight-wee  village,"  of 
the  Miami  tribe.  Here  Fort  Wayne  was  erected  in  1794,  by  order  of 
General  Wayne,  and  it  continued  to  be  a  military  post  until  1819.     The 


iowa.  583 

Miamies  were  removed  beyond  the  Mississippi  in  1841.     Population  in 
1853,  estimated  at  6,500. 

Lafayette,  capital  of  Tippecanoe  county,  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Wabash  river,  and  on  the  Wabash  and  Erie  canal,  66  miles  north-west 
of  Indianapolis,  and  123  miles  south-east  from  Chicago,  latitude  40°  25' 
north,  longitude  86°  49'  west.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  gradually 
rising  ground,  which  affords  a  delightful  view  of  the  river  and  the  neigh- 
boring hills.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  towns  on  the  canal  above  named, 
and  is  considered  the  fourth  of  the  State  in  respect  to  population.  The 
Wabash  and  Erie  canal  connects  it  with  Lake  Erie  and  the  Ohio  river. 
Railroads  have  recently  been  completed  from  Lafayette  to  Indianapolis, 
and  to  Crawfordsville.  These  advantages,  together  with  the  fertility  of 
the  surrounding  country,  render  it  a  place  of  active  trade,  and  the  prin- 
cipal grain  market  in  the  State.  It  contains  a  court-house  which  cost 
$20,000,  4  banks,  a  county  seminary,  and  about  10  churches,  some  of 
which  are  large  and  handsome  buildings.  It  has  also  several  paper- 
mills,  iron  founderies,  and  large  establishments  for  packing  pork.  Three 
weekly  and  two  daily  newspapers  are  published  here.  The  surrounding 
country  consists  of  fertile  prairies,  interspersed  with  oak  openings.  Set- 
tled in  1825.  Population  in  1846, 1,700 ;  in  1850,  6,129 ;  in  1854,  about 
9,000. 


IOWA. 


The  State  of  Iowa  is  bounded  north  by  Minnesota  Territory,  east  by 
the  Mississippi,  which  separates  it  from  the  States  of  Wisconsin  and  Illi- 
nois, south  by  Missouri,  and  west  by  Indian  Territory  and  Minnesota, 
from  the  former  of  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Missouri,  and  from  the 
latter  by  the  great  Sioux  river.  It  lies  (with  the  exception  of  a  small 
projection  in  the  south-east,  between  the  P/es  Moines  and  the  Mississippi 
rivers)  between  40°  30'  and  43°  30'  north  latitude,  and  between  90°  and 
97°  west  longitude,  being  about  300  miles  in  extreme  length  from  east 
to  west,  and  about  208  miles  in  breadth,  including  an  area  of  50,914 
square  miles,  or  32,584,960  acres,  of  which  only  824,682  were  improved 
in  1850.  According  to  a  State  census  in  1852,  5,618,207  acres  were  oc- 
cupied. 

Face  op  the  Country. — The  surface  of  Iowa  is  generally  composed 
of  rolling  prairies,  having  nothing  within  its  limits  which  approaches  a 
mountain  in  elevation.     The  highest  ground  in  the  State  is  a  plateau  in 


584  iowa. 

the  north-west,  called  "Couteau  des  Prairies,"  which  enters  the  state 
from  Minnesota.  A  small  portion  in  the  north-east,  on  the  Mississippi, 
is  rugged  and  rocky,  and  Table  mound,  a  conical  elevation  with  a  flat 
summit,  3  or  4  miles  from  Dubuque,  is,  perhaps,  500  feet  high.  The 
State,  however,  may  be  generally  described  as  a  rolling  prairie,  crossed 
by  rivers  whose  banks  are  skirted  with  wood.  There  are  said  to  be  some 
swamps  in  the  north-west  portion  of  the  State.  The  prairies,  though 
sometimes  20  miles  across,  are  rarely  more  than  5  or  10. 

Geology. — The  great  coal-field  of  Missouri  and  Iowa,  occupying  the 
center  and  southern  parts  of  the  latter  State,  and  extending  out  in  the 
form  of  a  semicircle,  is  surrounded  on  every  side  but  the  southern  by  a 
belt  of  upper  carboniferous  limestone.  The  Mississippi,  on  the  south- 
east of  the  State,  has  its  channel  in  a  bed  of  the  lower  carboniferous 
limestone.  The  great  drift  deposits  from  Minnesota  enter  the  north  of 
Iowa.  A  narrow  strip  of  the  lead-bearing  magnesian  limestone  lies  on 
the  Mississippi  to  the  north-east,  and  is  succeeded  on  the  south-west  first 
by  a  broad  belt  of  upper  magnesian,  and  then  by  a  second  of  limestone 
of  the  Devonian  period.  The  coal  veins  of  Iowa  are  not  nearly  so  thick 
as  those  of  Illinois,  being  seldom  more  than  four  or  five  feet.  The  prai- 
ries of  this  State  are  sprinkled  over  with  boulders,  some  of  them  of  im- 
mense size.  One  measured  by  Professor  Owen  was  500  feet  in  circum- 
ference, 12  feet  high,  and  probably  as  many  beneath  the  soil. 

Minerals. — Iowa  is  rich  in  mineral  resources,  and  but  one-tenth  of 
the  great  lead  region  of  the  upper  Mississippi  lies  in  this  State.  The  ore 
is  abundant,  but  lies  deeper  than  on  the  east  side  of  the  river.  Lead- 
mines  have  been  opened  in  Dubuque  and  Clayton  counties.  Zinc  and 
copper  are  also  found  in  the  same  localities,  and  in  connection  with  the 
lead.  In  1853,  there  were  shipped  from  Dubuque  and  Buena  Vista, 
3,250,970  pounds  of  lead.  The  great  bituminous  coal-field  of  Iowa  and 
Missouri  has  an  extent  of  near  200  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  140  from 
north  to  south,  within  the  former  State,  and  occupying  most  of  the  cen- 
tral and  southern  portions.  Copper  has  been  recently  discovered  in 
Cedar  county  in  considerable  quantities. 

Rivers. — The  rolling  prairies  of  Iowa  are  furrowed  by  several  impor- 
tant rivers,  which  cross  it  in  a  south-east  direction,  and  help  to  swell  the 
volume  of  waters  in  the  great  Mississippi,  into  which  they  discharge 
themselves.  The  Des  Moines,  the  most  important  of  these,  has  its  sources 
in  Minnesota,  and  traversing  the  entire  State,  forms  near  its  mouth  a 
small  portion  of  the  south-east  boundary.  Its  length  is  about  450  miles, 
250  of  which  are  navigable  for  light  steamboats  at  high  water.  The 
other  rivers  which  flow  into  the  Mississippi,  proceeding  in  order  north- 
ward, are  the  Skunk,  Iowa,  (the  Red  Cedar,  a  branch  of  the  Iowa,) 
Wapsipinicon,  Makoqueta,  Turkey,  and  Upper  Iowa.  The  Skunk  is 
about  200,  the  Iowa  300,  and  the  rivers  last  named  from  100  to  200  miles 
in  length.  The  Iowa  is  navigable  for  steamboats  110,  and  the  Cedar  river 
60  miles.  The  Makoqueta  and  the  Wapsipinicon  have  rapid  currents, 
and  furnish  abundant  water-power.  The  Missouri,  and  its  tributary,  the 
great  Sioux,  form  the  west  boundary.  The  Little  Sioux,  the  next  impor- 
tant tributary  of  the  Missouri  from  Iowa,  has  a  course  of  little  more  than 


iowa.  585 

100  miles.  There  are  a  few  small  lakes  in  the  north  and  west  parts  of 
the  State. 

Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists. — The  principal  claim  of  this  new 
and  as  yet  scarcely  explored  State,  on  the  attention  of  travelers,  must 
chiefly  rest  upon  the  beauty  of  its  undulating  prairies,  or  its  picturesque 
landscapes.  There  are,  however,  a  few  objects  which  may  be  classed 
among  natural  curiosities,  of  which  the  following  are  the  most  prominent. 
Numerous  sinks,  or  circular  depressions  in  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
from  10  to  20  feet  across,  are  found  in  different  places,  and  particularly 
on  Turkey  river,  in  the  north  part  of  the  State.  Small  mounds,  from  3 
to  6  feet  high,  and  sometimes  10  or  12  in  a  row,  are  found  on  the  same 
stream,  within  10  or  15  miles  of  its  mouth.  A  cave,  several  rods  in  ex- 
tent, exists  in  Jackson  county,  from  which  flows  a  stream  large  enough 
to  turn  a  mill.  The  Upper  Iowa  and  Makoqueta  rivers  have  worn  their 
channels  through  magnesian  limestone  rocks,  leaving,  on  the  southern 
banks,  cliffs,  worn  by  the  rain,  frost,  and  winds,  into  resemblances  of 
castles,  forts,  etc. 

Climate,  Soil,  and  Productions. — According  to  meteorological  ta- 
bles kept  at  Muscatine,  in  1851,  by  T.  S.  Parvin,  Esq.,  the  maximum  of 
January  was  46°,  the  minimum,  16°  ;  for  February,  maximum  52°,  mini- 
mum 0°;  March,  maximum  78°,  minimum  12° ;  April,  maximum  70°, 
minimum  21°;  May,  maximum  82°,  minimum  23°;  June,  maximum 
85°,  minimum  44°;  July,  maximum  92°,  minimum  44° ;  August,  maxi- 
mum 85°,  minimum  52°;  September,  maximum  91°,  minimum  30°; 
October,  maximum  79°,  minimum  18°;  November,  maximum  51°,  mini- 
mum 14°;  December,  maximum  56°,  minimum  18°.  Greatest  heat,  July 
27,92°;  greatest  cold,  December  16,  18°;  range,  110°.  The  Missis- 
sippi closed  January  30th  ;  opened  February  21st.  Last  frost,  May  24th  ; 
first  in  Autumn,  September  28th.  Rainy  days,  101 ;  53  of  which  were  in 
May,  June,  and  July;  20  snowy  days,  55  cloudy,  88  clear,  and  212 
variable.  The  amount  of  rain  that  fell  during  the  entire  year  was  72.4 
inches.  A  frost  in  May  killed  most  of  the  fruit.  The  peach-tree  blos- 
soms in  April,  fall  wheat  ripens  in  July,  spring  wheat  in  August,  and 
Indian  corn  in  October.  The  rivers  are  frozen  over  from  2  to  3  months 
on  an  average  each  winter.  The  soil  of  Iowa  is  generally  excellent  and 
of  easy  cultivation,  with  prairie  and  woodland  intermingled.  The 
valleys  of  the  Red  Cedar,  Iowa,  and  Des  Moines,  (we  quote  Owen's 
Geological  Report,)  as  high  as  latitude  42°  or  42°  31',  presents  a  body 
of  arable  land,  which,  taken  as  a  whole,  for  richness  in  organic  elements, 
for  amount  of  saline  matter,  and  due  admixture  of  earthly  silicates, 
affords  a  combination  that  belongs  only  to  the  most  fertile  upland  plains. 
After  passing  latitude  42°  30'  north,  near  the  confines  of  the  Couteau 
des  Prairies,  a  desolate,  knobby  country  commences,  the  highlands 
being  covered  with  gravel  and  supporting  a  scanty  vegetation,  while  the 
low  grounds  are  either  wet  or  marshy,  or  filled  with  numerous  ponds  or 
lakes,  and  where  the  eye  roves  in  vain  in  search  of  timber.  North  of 
41°  30',  and  between  the  head  waters  of  the  Grand,  Nodaway,  and 
Nishnabotona  rivers,  the  soil  is  inferior  in  quality  to  that  south  of  the 
same  parallel.     The  staples  of  this  State  are  Indian  corn,  wheat,  and 


586  iowa. 

live  stock,  besides  considerable  quantities  of  oats,  rye,  buckwheat,  barley, 
Irish  potatoes,  butter,  cheese,  hay,  wool,  maple-sugar,  beeswax  and 
honey ;  and  some  rice,  tobacco,  beans,  peas,  sweet  potatoes,  orchard  fruit, 
wine,  grass-seeds,  hops,  flax,  and  silk  are  produced.  There  were  14,805 
farms,  including  824,682  acres  of  improved  land,  in  Iowa  in  1850,  pro- 
ducing 8,656,799  bushels  of  Indian  corn;  1,530,581  of  wheat;  1,524,345 
of  oats;  276,120  of  Irish  potatoes;  52,516  of  buckwheat;  25,093  of 
barley;  19,916  of  rye;  373,898  pounds  of  wool;  2,171,188  of  butter; 
209,840  of  cheese;  89,055  tons  of  hay;  78,407  pounds  of  maple-sugar; 
live  stock  of  the  value  of  $3,689,275;  slaughtered  animals,  $821,164; 
market  products,  $8,848;  and  orchard  products,  $8,434.* 

Forest  Trees. — Iowa  is  in  many  places  destitute  of  timber ;  along 
the  rivers,  however,  it  is  well  wooded,  except  near  their  sources.  On  the 
intervals  between  the  rivers  there  are  often  prairies  of  from  15  to  20 
miles,  without  so  much  as  a  bush  higher  than  the  wild  indigo  and  com- 
pass-plant. The  greatest  scarcity  of  trees  is  north  of  42°.  Ash,  elm, 
sugar,  and  white  maple  grow  in  alluvion  belts  of  from  one-fourth  to  one  mile 
in  width  on  the  river  banks.  The  other  forest  trees  are  poplar,  various 
species  of  oak,  black  and  white  walnut,  hickory,  locust,  iron  wood,  cotton- 
wood,  lime  or  basswood,  and  some  pine  on  the  northern  parts  of  the  State. 
Oak  constitutes  the  larger  part  of  the  timber  of  the  State.  The  peach 
grows  too  luxuriantly,  and  blooms  too  soon  to  admit  of  its  being  culti- 
vated to  advantage.  The  grape,  gooseberry,  and  wild  plum  are  indi- 
genous. 

Manufactures. — As  a  newly  settled  State,  Iowa  can  of  course  have 
made  as  yet  but  little  progress  in  manufactures;  though  she  has  within 
her  limits  two  important  elements  of  manufacturing  industry,  viz. : 
abundance  of  coal  and  water-power.  In  1850  there  were  482  establish- 
ments, producing  each  $500  or  upward  annually;  of  these  3  were  engaged 
in  the  manufacture  of  iron,  employing  $5,500  capital,  and  17  male  hands, 
consuming  raw  material  worth  $2,524,  and  producing  castings,  etc.,  worth 
$8,500 ;  1  woolen  factory,  employing  $31,225  capital,  and  7  male  hands, 
consuming  raw  material  worth  $3,500,  and  producing  14,000  yards  of 
stuffs,  valued  at  $13,000;  and  $19,000  invested  in  manufacturing  malt 
and  spirituous  liquors,  consuming  51,150  bushels  of  Indian  corn,  and 
7,200  of  rye,  and  producing  160,000  gallons  of  whisky,  etc.  Homemade 
manufactures  were  valued  at  $221,292.  In  1852,  there  was  invested  in 
mills  and  distilleries  the  sum  of  $280,438. 

Internal  Improvements. — Only  eight  years  a  member  of  the  con- 
federacy, the  energies  of  Iowa  have  hitherto  been  chiefly  directed  to  th 
opening  of  common  roads  and  making  other  improvements.  Still  sh 
had,  in  January,  1854,  480  miles  of  railroad  in  course  of  construction, 
and  others  projected,  which,  when  completed,  will  connect  the  Missis- 
sippi, at  Burlington,  Davenport,  and  Dubuque,  with  the  Missouri  at 
Council  Bluffs,  and  two  other  points,  the  one  south  and  the  other  north 
of  Council  Bluffs;  and  also  unite  Dubuque  and  Keokuk  with  St.  Louis, 

*By  a  State  census  in  1852,  the  horses  numbered  61,088  ;  sheep,  171,325  ;  swine, 
277,090,  and  the  neat  cattle  valued  at  $1,998,489. 


iowa.  587 

Missouri.  These  roads  are  already  under  contract  from  Davenport  to 
Fort  Des  Moines,  from  Muscatine  to  Fredonia,  and  to  Moscow. 

Commerce. — Iowa  has  no  foreign  trade,  but  is  very  favorably  located 
for  internal  traffic,  washed  as  it  is  by  the  Missouri  on  the  west,  and 
Mississippi  on  the  east,  and  its  interior  traversed  by  the  Des  Moines, 
Iowa,  Cedar,  and  other  rivers.  The  principal  articles  of  export  are 
grain,  flour,  lead,  pork,  and  live  stock.  In  the  year  1852-53,  57,500 
hogs  were  packed  in  Iowa,  and  45,060  in  1853-54. 

Education. — All  lands  granted  by  Congress,  all  escheated  estates, 
and  whatever  per  centage  Congress  may  allow  on  the  public  land  sold 
within  the  State,  are  to  constitute  a  fund,  the  interest  of  which  and  the 
rent  of  unsold  lands,  together  with  military  and  court  fines,  are  to  form 
an  appropriation  for  the  support  of  public  schools  in  Iowa,  which  are  to 
be  under  the  direction  of  a  superintendent  of  public  instruction,  elected 
for  three  years  by  the  people.  Schools  must  be  kept  open  at  least  three 
months  of  every  year  in  each  district.  An  appropriation  is  also  made 
for  the  support  of  Iowa  University,  which  is  to  be  perpetual.  There 
were,  in  1850,  two  colleges  in  Iowa  with  100  pupils  and  $2,000  income ; 
742  public  schools,  with  29,616  pupils  and  $51,492,  of  which  119,078 
was  from  public  funds  and  $16,149  from  taxation;  31  academies  and 
other  schools,  with  1,051  pupils,  $7,980  income,  of  which  $8,000  was 
from  endowments;  and  35,473  pupils  attending  school  as  returned  by 
families  ;  of  the  adult  population,  1,853  could  not  read  and  write,  of 
whom  1,077  were  foreigners. 

Religions. — There  were  193  churches  in  Iowa  in  1850,  of  which  the 
Baptists  owned  20;  Christians,  10;  Congregationalists,  14;  Episcopalians, 
5;  Friends,  5;  Lutherans,  4;  Methodists,  71;  Presbyterians,  38;  and 
the  Roman  Catholics,  18.  The  rest  were  divided  among  German  Re- 
formed, Moravians,  Unionists,  and  Universalists. — See  Tables  of  Religions, 
Appendix.  Number  of  persons  to  each  church,  1,000.  Value  of  church 
property,  $177,425. 

Periodicals. — In  1850  there  were  published  in  Iowa,  2  tri  and  semi- 
weekly,  25  weekly  newspapers,  and  2  monthly  periodicals,  with  an  aggre- 
gate annual  circulation  of  1,512,800  copies. 

Public  Institutions. — In  1850  there  were  4  public  libraries  in  Iowa, 
with  an  aggregate  of  2,650  volumes,  and  28  schools  and  Sunday-school 
libraries  with  3,140  volumes.  There  is  a  State  Prison  at  Fort  Madison, 
on  the  Mississippi. 

Population. — Iowa  had  43,112  inhabitants  in  1840,  and  192,214  in 
1850,  of  whom  100,885  were  white  males,  90,994  white  females,  168 
colored  males,  and  167  colored  females,  (By  State  census  in  1852,  the 
population  was  228,873,  and  in  1854,  326,014,  being  an  increase  of 
133,800  since  1850.)  This  population  was  divided  among  38,517  fami- 
lies-, occupying  32,962  dwellings.  Of  the  population  only  41,357  were 
born  in  the  State,  129,674  in  other  States  of  the  Union,  3,785  in  Eng- 
land, 4,485  in  Ireland,  1,064  in  Scotland  and  Wales,  1,756  in  British 
America,  7,152  in  Germany,  382  in  France,  2,208  in  other  countries,  and 
382  whose  places  of  birth  were  unknown,  making  more  than  10  per  cent, 
of  the  population  of  foreign  birth.     Population  to  the  square  mile,  377. 


TZZ     DISAPPOINTED      JOLI     3ZZIIR. 


GOLZ     SZZZZ7.  S      SZ_LTEG     ON     ZHZ     TTJROM 


588  iowa. 

During  the  year  ending  June  1,  1850,  2,044  deaths  occurred,  or  about 
10  in  every  1000  persons ;  135  paupers  received  support  in  the  same 
period,  of  whom  35  were  foreigners.  In  the  same  year  there  were  59 
deaf  and  dumb,  all  white  ;  50  blind,  do.;  42  idiotic,  do.;  aud  94  insane 
do.  Of  the  population,  217  were  engaged  in  mining,  10,409  in  agricul- 
ture;  355  in  commerce;  1,629  in  manufactures;  13  in  navigating  the 
ocean,  78  in  internal  navigation,  and  365  in  the  learned  professions. 

Counties. — There  are  in  Iowa  49  organized  counties,  viz  :  Allomakee, 
Appanoose,  (or  Appanuse,)  Benton,  Black  Hawk,  Boone,  Buchanan, 
Cedar,  Clarke,  Clayton,  Clinton,  Dallas,  Davis,  Decatur,  Delaware  Des 
Moines,  Dubuque,  Fayette,  Fremont,  Henry,  Iowa,  Jackson,  Jasper, 
Jefferson,  Johnson,  Jones,  Keokuk,  Lee,  Linn,  Louisa,  Lucas,  Madison, 
Mahaska,  Marion,  Marshall,  Monroe,  Muscatine,  Page,  Polk,  Pottawato- 
mie, Poweshiek,  Scott,  Tama,  Taylor,  Van  Buren,  Wapello,  Warren 
Washington,  Wayne,  and  Winnishiek.     Capital,  Fort  Des  Moines. 

Cities  and  Towns. — In  1854,  Burlington  had  a  population  of  7,306; 
Dubuque,  6,634;  Davenport,  5,272;  Keokuk,  4,789;  Muscatine,  3,694; 
Iowa  City,  2,570,  and  Fort  Madison,  2,010. 

Government,  Finances,  Banks,  etc. — The  governor  of  Iowa  is 
chosen  for  4  years,  and  receives  81,000  per  annum;  the  senate,  com- 
posed of  30  members,  for  the  same  period,  and  the  house  of  represen- 
tatives, of  59  members,  for  2  years ;  all  elected  by  popular  vote.  The 
sessions  of  the  Legislature  are  biennial  and  convene  on  the  first  Monday 
in  December  of  every  alternate  year.  The  members  receive  82  per  diem 
for  the  first  50  days  of  the  session,  but  after  that  only  81  a  day;  82  are 
allowed  for  every  20  miles  traveled.  The  judiciary  is  composed — 1.  Of 
a  supreme  court,  presided  over  by  one  chief  and  two  associate  judges, 
receiving  each  81,000  per  annum.  2.  Of  district  courts,  each  presided 
over  by  a  single  judge,  receiving  81,000  per  annum.  The  judges  of  the 
supreme  court  are  elected  by  joint  vote  of  the  Legislature  for  6  years, 
and  the  district  judges  by  the  people  of  their  respective  districts  for  5 
years.  The  assessed  value  of  property  in  Iowa  in  1853  was  849,384,906  ; 
and  public  debt,  879,795,  in  December,  1854.  There  was  but  one  bank 
in  the  State  in  June,  1852,  with  a  capital  of  8200,000,  circulation 
8100,000,  and  coin  850,000. 

History. — Iowa  formed  originally  a  part  of  the  Louisiana  purchase,  then 
successively  a  part  of  Missouri,  Wisconsin,  and  lastly  of  Iowa  Territory. 
It  became  an  independent  member  of  the  confederacy  in  1846.  Settle- 
ments were  permanently  commenced  about  1833;  the  first  at  Burlington. 

Iowa  City,  a  flourishing  town,  and  seat  of  justice  of  Johnson  county, 
is  beautifully  situated  on  the  bluffs  which  rise  from  the  left  bank  of  the 
Iowa  river,  about  80  miles  from  its  mouth,  33  miles  north-west  of  the 
Mississippi  river  at  Muscatine,  and  about  760  miles  in  a  straight  line 
west  by  north  of  Washington.  Latitude  41°  39'  north,  longitude  91° 
39'  west.  When  this  place  was  selected  as  the  seat  of  government,  in 
May,  1839,  it  was  entirely  in  a  state  of  nature,  and  within  a  year  from 
that  time  it  contained  from  500  to  700  inhabitants.  The  town  is  em- 
bowered among  groves  of  trees,  and  surrounded  by  fertile  prairies.  The 
principal  streets  are  Capitol  street  and  Iowa   avenue,  which  are  about 


IOWA-  589 

100  feet  in  width.  At  the  intersection  of  these,  on  a  commanding 
eminence,  stands  the  Capitol,  a  fine  edifice  of  the  Doric  order,  120  feet 
long  by  60  feet  wide.  The  material  was  quarried  in  this  vicinity,  and 
is  marked  with  spots  and  rings,  which  give  it  the  name  of  "  bird's-eye 
marble."  The  cost  is  estimated  at  8100,000.  The  river  is  navigable 
by  steamboats  from  its  mouth  to  this  place  in  all  stages.  Several  rail- 
ways are  projected  or  in  course  of  construction,  which,  when  finished 
will  connect  the  town  with  Dubuque,  Keokuk,  and  Davenport.  The 
river  affords  in  this  vicinity  excellent  water-power,  which  is  partially 
improved.  Iowa  city  contains  several  churches,  a  college,  an  academy, 
and  other  schools.  Three  or  four  newspapers  are  published  here. 
Population  in  1850,  2,262;  in  1853,  about  4,000. 

Burlington,  a  flourishing  commercial  city,  seat  of  justice  of  Des 
Moines  county,  and  formerly  the  capital  of  Iowa,  is  situated  on  the 
Mississippi  river,  45  miles  above  Keokuk,  250  miles  above  St.  Louis, 
and  88  miles  south-east  of  Iowa  city.  In  respect  to  population,  this 
town  is  not  equalled  by  any  in  the  State,  excepting  Dubuque,  which  is 
of  nearly  the  same  extent.  It  continues  to  maintain  a  steady  and 
healthy  growth,  notwithstanding  the  removal  of  the  seat  of  government 
in  1839.  The  river  in  this  part  of  its  course  is  a  broad  and  beautiful 
stream  of  clear  water,  and  the  town,  situated  partly  on  the  top  of  the 
bluffs,  overlooks  a  section  of  country  abounding  in  rich  and  delightful 
scenery.  Burlington  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  the  greater  part  of  the 
houses  are  of  brick  or  stone.  It  contains  (January,  1854,)  9  churches, 
a  Baptist  college  just  established,  a  hotel,  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the 
State,  2  steam  flouring-mills,  4  saw-mills,  1  planing-mill,  2  founderies,  a 
door  and  sash-factory,  and  2  large  public-school  buildings.  Two  daily 
papers,  1  tri-weekly,  and  4  weeklies  are  issued.  Gas-works  are  about 
being  established.  There  are  two  plank-roads — one  50  miles  long,  ex- 
tends westward  from  this  city  to  Fairfield — and  a  railroad  to  be  opened 
in  1855,  will  connect  it  with  Peoria  and  other  towns  of  Illinois.  Popu- 
lation in  1854,  estimated  at  7,000. 

Dubuque,  a  flourishing  city,  and  seat  of  justice  of  Dubuque  county, 
is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi  river,  about  200  miles 
above  Burlington,  450  miles  above  St.  Louis,  and  24  miles  by  water 
from  Galena.  The  situation  of  Dubuque  is  regarded  by  some  persons 
as  more  beautiful  than  that  of  any  other  city  in  Iowa.  It  stands  on  a 
broad  platteau  or  terrace,  which  extends  along  the  river  for  several  miles. 
The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  contains  a  number  of  handsome 
buildings.  Dubuque  is  the  central  depot  of  the  mining  region  of  Iowa, 
and  is  a  place  of  active  trade.  Large  quantities  of  lead  are  taken  from 
the  mines  in  this  vicinity,  and  sent  down  the  river  by  steamboats;  stone 
coal  and  limestone  are  also  abundant.  It  is  stated  in  the  public  journals 
that  a  quarry  of  variegated  brown  marble  has  been  recently  found  on 
the  bank  of  the  river  opposite  Dubuque.  The  city  contains  a  Catholic 
cathedral,  a  number  of  Protestant  churches,  a  United  States  land-office, 
4  newspaper  offices,  and  2  banks.  In  1S52,  about  100  houses,  chiefly  of 
brick,  were  erected,  and  large  sums  were  expended  in  improving  the 
harbor  and  in  paving  the  streets.  The  reported  value  of  imports  in 
38 


590  iowa. 

1852,  was  $1,670,390,  of  which  $560,000  was  for  dry  goods,  $488,000 
for  groceries,  and  $136,000  for  steam  engines  and  machinery.  The  value 
of  exports  was  $629,140,  including  116,000  pigs  of  lead,  valued  at 
$348,000.  The  number  of  steamboat  arrivals  in  1851  was  351,  and 
in  1852,  417.  Dubuque  is  the  terminus  of  the  northern  branch  of  the 
Illinois  Central  railroad,  and  of  the  Dubuque  and  Keokuk  railroad,  the 
former  of  which  (September,  1854,)  is  nearly  or  quite  completed,  and  the 
latter  in  an  advanced  process  of  construction.  It  is  the  oldest  town  in 
the  State,  having  been  settled  by  French  Canadians  about  1786.  Popu- 
lation about  8,000. 

Davenport,  the  capital  of  Scott  county,  is  finely  situated  on  the 
Mississippi  river,  at  the  foot  of  the  upper  rapids,  opposite  the  town 
of  Rock  Island,  230  miles  above  St.  Louis,  and  60  miles  east  of  Iowa 
city.  It  has  advantages  which,  indicate  that  it  will  continue  to  grow  in 
extent  and  importance.  The  prosperity  of  Davenport  is  increased  by 
its  connection  with  the  East  by  means  of  the  Chicago  and  Rock  Island 
railroad.  The  Davenport  and  Iowa  railroad,  opened  about  the  1st  of 
January,  1854,  to  Iowa  city,  is  located  to  Fort  Des  Moines,  and  is  ulti- 
mately to  be  extended  to  Council  Bluff's.  During  low  water  the  naviga- 
tion is  obstructed  by  the  rapids,  which  extend  20  miles  above  this  place. 
Two  or  three  newspapers  are  published  here.  Iowa  college  was  estab- 
lished in  Davenport  in  1846  or  1847,  and  is  a  flourishing  institution. 
Stone  coal  is  so  abundant  and  cheap  in  the  vicinity,  that  steam-power 
is  chiefly  used  for  manufacturing  purposes.  Davenport  is  built  at  the 
foot  of  a  bluff,  which  rises  gradually  from  the  river,  with  a  chain  of 
rounded  hills  in  the  background.  The  scenery  around  the  town  is 
scarcely  surpassed  by  any  on  the  river.  It  was  first  settled  in  1837, 
and  is  now  incorporated  as  a  city.  Population  in  1854,  estimated 
at  4,500. 

Keokuk,  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  "  Lower  Rapids"  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi river,  205  miles  above  St.  Louis,  and  125  miles  south  of  Iowa 
city.  It  is  at  the  head  of  navigation  for  the  larger  class  of  steamers, 
and  the  natural  outlet  of  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Des  Moines,  which  is 
the  most  populous  part  of  the  State.  A  line  of  splendid  steam-packets 
communicates  daily  between  Keokuk  and  St.  Louis.  The  number  of 
steamboat  arrivals  in  1852  was  stated  to  be  795.  The  Lower  Rapids 
are  11  miles  in  extent,  in  the  course  of  which  the  river  has  a  fall  of  24 
feet.  The  cargoes  of  vessels  ascending  the  river  are  transhipped  over  the 
rapids  by  lighters  drawn  by  horses,  and  then  reshipped  on  board  of 
steamboats  for  their  destination.  Keokuk  stands  on  a  basis  of  fine  lime- 
stone, affording  an  excellent  material  for  building.  It  contains  the  med- 
ical department  of  the  State  university,  6  or  7  churches,  3  academies, 
several  public  schools,  and  a  hospital.  Two  weekly  newspapers  and  1 
medical  journal  are  published  here.  The  town  contains  also  between 
80  and  90  stores,  2  steam  flouring-mills,  and  2  iron  founderies.  The 
reported  value  of  merchandise  sold  here  in  1852,  was  $1,345,000.  A 
railroad  is  in  course  of  construction  from  this  place  to  Dubuque,  180 
miles.  Keokuk  is  thought  to  be  one  of  the  most  eligible  points  for 
bridging  the  Mississippi,  which  is  here  about  1  mile  wide.     The  river 


iowa.  591 

flows  over  a  bed  of  limestone,  and  is  bordered  by  the  bluffs,  wbicb  rise 
abruptly  nearly  150  feet  high.  Between  these  bluffs  is  an  island  J, 700 
feet  wide.  The  population  of  Keokuk,  in  1845,  was  4G0;  in  1852  it 
amounted  to  3,963;  in  1854,  to  4,789. 

Muscatine,  formerly  Bloomington,  capital  of  Muscatine  county,  is 
situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  100  miles  above  Keokuk 
and  32  miles  south-east  of  Iowa  city.  Commencing  at  the  head  of  th 
upper  rapids  of  the  Mississippi,  the  river  may  be  traced  in  a  direction 
almost  due  west  for  more  than  40  miles,  until  it  strikes  a  series  of  bold 
rocky  bluffs,  by  which  its  course  is  suddenly  turned  towards  tbe  south. 
At  the  apex  of  this  bend,  on  the  summit  of  these  bluffs,  is  situated  the 
city  of  Muscatine.  The  place  was  first  settled  by  the  whites  in  1836, 
previous  to  which  time  it  had  been  an  Indian  trading  post,  known  by  the 
name  of  Manatbeka.  It  is  now  one  oifche  most  populous  and  commer- 
cial towns  of  the  State,  and  is  the  shipping  point  for  an  extensive  and 
fertile  Territory.  In  consequence  of  the  bend  in  the  river,  Muscatine 
is  nearer  the  center  of  the  State  than  tbe  other  ports  on  tbe  Mississippi, 
and  it  naturally  commands  tbe  trade  of  two  great  fluvial  divisions  of 
of  Iowa,  namely,  the  valleys  of  the  Bed  Cedar  and  Iowa  rivers.  There 
are  two  steam  saw  mills  in  the  city,  that  turn  out  about  4,000,000  feet  of 
lumber  annually.  The  logs  are  obtained  chiefly  from  Minnesota,  above 
the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony.  About  10,000,000  feet  of  lumber  are  sold 
here  yearly,  besides  large  quantities  of  laths,  shingles,  and  wooden  ware. 
Muscatine  is  about  to  derive  benefit  from  railway  communication. 
The  Muscatine  and  Oskaloosa  railroad  is  under  contract  to  Fredonia 
and  located  to  Oskaloosa,  and  it  is  thought  that  the  road  will  be  extended 
to  the  mouth  of  Platte  river.  The  Muscatine  and  Cedar  Kapids  branch 
railroad,  the  3d  division  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  railroad,  is  al- 
ready in  operation  to  Moscow,  and  when  completed  will  open  communica- 
tion with  the  capital  of  the  State.  The  projected  railroad  from  Bock  Island, 
Illinois,  to  Fort  Des  Moines,  is  also  expected  to  pass  through  this  city. 
Muscatine  has  a  good  landing  for  steamboats  navigating  the  Mississippi. 
The  town  contains  churches  of  9  or  10  denominations,  several  academies, 
about  thirty  stores,  and  numerous  factories  and  mills;  2  newspapers  are 
published  here.     Incorporated  a  city  in  1853.     Population  about  6,000. 

Council  Bluffs,  formerly  Kanesville,  a  post-village  and  capital  of 
Potawatomie  county,  near  the  Missouri  river,  250  miles  west  of  Iowa  city. 
It  has  30  or  40  stores.  The  Davenport  and  Iowa  railroad  is  intended  ulti- 
mately to  be  extended  to  this  place.  Population  in  1854,  3,500.  It  was 
first  settled  by  the  Mormons.  Many  emigrants  to  Utah  get  their  outfit 
here. 

Fort  Des  Moines,  (de-inoin',)  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Des 
Moines  and  Baccoon  rivers,  120  miles  west  of  Iowa  city.  The  seat  of  the 
State  government  was  established  in  1855.  The  Des  Moines  is  suscepti- 
ble of  steam  navigation  to  this  point,  which  is  the  terminus  of  the  slack- 
water  improvement  now  prosecuted  by  the  State.  The  projected  rail- 
road from  Davenport  on  the  Mississippi  river  to  Council  Bluffs  is  expected 
to  pass  through  this  place.  Mines  of  stone  coal  have  been  opened  in 
the  vicinity,  and   timber   is  abundant.     The  river   furnishes  extensive 


592  Missouri. 

water-power,  which  is  partially  employed  in  flouring  mills  and  saw  mills. 
2  newspapers  are  published  here.  The  old  Fort  Des  Moines  was  evac- 
uated by  the  troops  of  the  United  States  in  1846. 

Fort  Madison,  capital  of  Lee  county,  on  the  Mississippi  river,  12  miles 
above  the  head  of  the  lower  rapids,  22  miles  above  Keokuk,  and  22  miles 
below  Burlington.  The  situation  is  beautiful  and  healthful;  the  ground 
rising  gradually  from  the  water  to  the  west  part  of  the  town.  The  lat- 
ter is  well  built,  with  a  large  proportion  of  brick  houses.  It  contains 
the  State  prison,  a  handsome  brick  court-house,  and  5  or  6  churches  of 
the  same  material.  2  or  3  ferry-boats  ply  constantly  across  the  river, 
which  is  nearly  a  mile  wide.  Fort  Madison  is  a  place  of  much  activity 
in  trade  and  manufactures;  in  the  latter  of  which  it  appears  to  have 
made  more  progress  than  any  other  town  in  the  State.  2  or  3  news- 
papers are  published  here.  Lwge  quantities  of  grain,  pork,  etc.,  are 
shipped  at  this  place,  which  is  also  an  extensive  depot  for  pine  lumber. 
Population  in  1850,  2,300;  in  1853,  about  3,000. 


MISSOURI. 


TpE  Missouri  river,  which  is  the  longest  tributary  stream  in  the  world, 
has  its  source  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  latitude  45°  north,  longitude  110° 
30'  west.  The  springs  which  give  rise  to  this  river,  are  not  more  than 
a  mile  from  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia,  which  flows  west  to  the 
Pacific  ocean.  The  first  500  miles  of  its  course  to  the  Great  Falls  ia 
nearly  north;  then  inflecting  east-north-east,  it  reaches  its  extreme 
northern  bend  at  the  junction  of  White  Earth  river,  latitude  48°  20' 
north.  After  this  its  general  course  is  south-east,  till  it  joins  the  Mis- 
sissippi in  about  38°  50'  north  latitude,  and  90°  10'  west  longitude.  At 
the  distance  of  411  miles  from  the  source  of  the  Missouri,  are  what  are 
denominated  the  gates  of  the  Rocky  mountains  For  a  distance  of  nearly 
6  miles,  the  rocks  rise  perpendicularly  from  the  water's  edge  to  a  hight 
of  1,200  feet.  The  river  is  compressed  to  a  width  of  150  yards,  and  for 
the  first  3  miles  there  is  only  one  spot,  and  that  of  but  a  few  yards 
in  extent,  on  which  a  man  could  stand  between  the  water  and  the  per- 
pendicular walls.  At  a  distance  of  110  miles  below  this,  and  2,575 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  are  the  Great  Falls,  where  the 
river  descends,  by  a  succession  of  falls  and  rapids,  357  feet  in  16  miles. 
The  perpendicular  falls,  commencing  down  the  stream,  are,  first  one  of 
87  feet,  one  of  19  feet,  one  of  47  feet,  and  one  of  26  feet.     Between  and 


Missouri.  593 

below  these  are  continual  rapids  of  from  3  to  18  feet  descent.  These 
falls,  next  to  Niagara,  are  regarded  as  the  grandest  in  North  America. 

The  bed  of  the  Missouri  commences  at  the  confluence  of  3  small 
streams,  about  equal  in  length,  and  running  nearly  parallel  to  each  other 
— Jefferson's,  Madison's,  and  Gallatin's.  The  Yellowstone,  800  yarda 
wide  at  its  mouth,  and  probably  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Missouri, 
enters  it  from  the  south-west,  1,216  miles  from  its  navigable  source. 
The  two  rivers,  at  their  junction,  are  about  equal  in  size.  Steamboats 
ascend  to  this  point,  and  may  ascend  farther,  both  by  the  main  stream 
and  its  affluent.  Chienne  river,  400  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  enters  the 
Missouri  from  the  south-west,  1,310  miles  from  its  mouth;  White  river, 
300  yards  wide,  enters  it  from  the  south-west,  1,130  miles  from  its 
mouth;  Big  Sioux  river,  110  yards  wide,  enters  it  from  the  north-east, 
853  miles  from  its  mouth;  Platte  rivej^OOO  yards  wide,  enters  it  from 
the  south-west,  600  miles  from  its  mouth;  Kansas  river,  233  yards  wide, 
enters  it  from  the  south-west,  340  miles  from  its  mouth;  Grand  river, 
190  yards  wide,  joins  it  from  the  north,  240  miles  from  its  mouth,  and 
Osage  river,  397  yards  wide,  flows  into  it  from  the  south-west,  133  miles 
from  its  junction  with  the  main  stream.  The  Missouri  is  stated  to  be 
3,096  miles  long  to  its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi;  add  to  this,  1,253 
miles,  the  distance  its  waters  must  flow  to  reach  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
and  we  have  an  entire  length  of  4,349  miles.  There  is,  however,  reason 
to  believe  that  the  early  statements  respecting  the  extent  of  this  river 
and  its  tributaries  were  somewhat  exaggerated.  Throughout  the  greater 
part  of  its  course,  the  Missouri  is  a  rapid,  turbid  stream.  No  serious 
obstacle,  however,  is  presented  to  navigation  from  its  mouth  to  the  Great 
Falls,  a  distance  of  2,575  miles,  excepting  perhaps  its  shallowness  during 
the  season  of  the  greatest  drought,  when  steamboats  meet  with  difficulty 
in  ascending.  The  flood  from  this  river  does,  not  reach  the  Mississippi 
till  the  rise  in  the  Red,  the  Arkansas,  and  the  Ohio  rivers  has  nearly 
subsided.  Vast  prairies,  with  narrow  strips  of  alluvion  skirting  the 
streams,  compose  the  Missouri  basin,  excepting  the  upper  portion  of  the 
river,  which  flows  through  an  arid  and  sterile  region.  The  entire  extent 
of  area  drained,  is  estimated  at  500,000  square  miles. 

Missouri,  one  of  the  largest  of  the  United  States,  and  the  first  formed 
wholly  west  of  the  Mississippi  river,  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Iowa, 
(from  which  it  is  separated  for  about  30  miles  on  the  north-east  by  the 
Des  Moines  river,)  and  on  the  east  by  the  Mississippi  river,  which 
divides  it  from  Illinois,  Kentucky,  and  Tennessee;  on  the  south  by  the 
Arkansas,  and  on  the  west  by  Indian,  Kansas,  and  Nebraska  Territories; 
from  the  latter  two  of  which  it  is  partly  separated  by  the  Missouri  river. 
This  State  lies  (with  the  exception  of  a  small  pi-ojection  between  the 
St.  Francis  and  the  Mississippi  river,  which  extends  to  36°)  between 
36°  30'  and  40°  36'  north  latitude,  and  between  89°  10'  and  96°  west 
longitude,  being  about  285  miles  in  its  greatest  length  from  east  to  west, 
and  280  in  width  from  north  to  south,  including  an  area  of  67,380 
square  miles,  or  43,123,200  acres,  only  2,937,425  of  which  were  im- 
proved in  1850. 

Face  of  the  Country. — This  great  State  is  mostly  level  or  undulat- 


594  MISSOURI. 

ing  north  of  the  Missouri,  while  the  portion  south  of  that  river  (much 
the  larger  part  of  the  State)  exhibits  a  greater  variety  of  surface.     In 
the  south-east  part,  near  the  Mississippi  river,  and   south  of  Cape  Girar- 
deau, is  an  extensive  marsh,  reaching  beyond  the  State  into  Arkansas, 
and  occupying  an  area  of  about  3,000  square  miles.     The  remainder  of 
this  portion,  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  Osage  rivers,  is  rolling  and 
gradually  rising  into  a  hilly  and  mountainous  district,  forming  the  out- 
skirts of  the  Ozark  mountains.     Beyond  the  Osage  river,  at  some  dis- 
tance, commences  a  vast  expanse  of  prairie  land,  which  stretches  away  to 
the  Rocky  mountains.     The  ridges  forming  the  Ozark  chain,  which  prob- 
ably in  no  place  reaches  an  elevation  of  2,000  feet,  extend  in  a  north- 
east and  south-west  direction,  separating  the  waters  that  flow  north-east 
into  the  Missouri  river  from  those  that  flow  south-east  into  the  Missis- 
sippi river.     The  geological  fea^res  of  this  State  are  very  interesting. 
One  of  the  richest  coal-fields  pernaps  in  the  world,  occupies  the  greater 
part  of  Missouri  north  of  the  Osage  river,  and  extends  nearly  to  the  north 
boundary  of  Iowa.     A  carboniferous  limestone,  which  comes  to  the  sur- 
face on  the  east  and  west  borders  of  the  State,  forms  a  rim  from  5  to  40 
miles    in    breadth.     The    lower  magnesian  limestone  crops  out  on    the 
Missouri  river,  from  25  miles  above  Jefferson  city  to  within  35  miles  of 
its    mouth,  with  occasional  obtrusions  of   sandstone.     Schoolcraft  thus 
speaks  of   the  Ozark  mountains:   "The  Ozark    is  a  term  applied  to  a 
broad,  elevated  district  of  highlands,  running  from  north  to  south  cen- 
trally through  the  States  of  Missouri  and  Arkansas.     It  has  on  the  east, 
the  striking  and  deep  alluvial  tract  of  the  Mississippi  river,  and  on  its 
west  the  woodless  plains  or  deserts  which  stretch  below  the  Ilocky  moun- 
tains." 

Minerals. — Missouri    is   particularly  rich    in    minerals,  and   a  vast 
region  in  the  neighborhood  of  Iron  mountain  and  Pilot  knob  is,  perhaps, 
unsurpassed  on  the  globe  for  productiveness  in  iron  of  the  best  quality. 
Though  existing  in  the  greatest  abundance  and  purity  in  this  locality, 
this  mineral  is  found  on  the  Maramec  river,  at  Birmingham  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi, 120  miles  below  St.  Louis,  and  in  other  parts  of  the  State.     The 
principal  mines  of  lead  in  Missouri,  according  to  Whitney,  are  in  Wash- 
ington county,  on  the  branches  of  the  Maramec  river.     There  are  a  few 
others  in  Franklin  and  Jefferson  counties,  but  the  aggregate  product  of 
lead  from  all  the  mines  in  the  State,  in  1851,  was  only  estimated  at  1,500 
tons,  a  decline  of  more  than  one-half  from  that  of  1842.     Copper  exists 
throughout   the  mineral  region,  (a   tract    of  17,000,000  or   18,000,000 
acres,)  but  is  most  abundant  near  the  La  Motte  mines.     It  is   found 
combined  with  nickel,  manganese,  iron,  cobalt,  and  lead,  and  these  often 
yield  34  per  cent,  of  the  pure  metal.     Of  the  other  metals  named,  all 
except  nickel  are  found  in  considerable  quantities.     Silver  exists  in  the 
lead  ore,  350  pounds  of  pure  metal  having  been  obtained  from  1,000,000 
pounds  of  lead.     Tin  has  been  found  in  small  quantities.     Of  the  non- 
metallic  minerals,  limestone  abounds  north  of  the  Missouri  river,  and 
forms  a  good  building-stone.     Marbles  beautifully  veined  and  crystal- 
line are  found  in  parts  of  the  State;   also  gypsum,  sandstones,  red  and 
white,  porphyries,  sienite,  saltpetre,  sulphate  of  baryta,  kaolin,  and  infe- 


Missouri.  595 

rior  clays.  The  red  sandstone  is  of  too  coarse  and  loose  a  texture  for 
architectural  purposes,  but  the  white,  found  near  St.  Genevieve,  makes 
superior  glass.  In  a  letter  to  us,  Professor  Silliman,  Sr.,  says:  "At  a 
place  called  Arcadia,  the  iron,  in  a  dyke  several  yards  wide,  is  bounded 
by  walls  of  porphyry." 

Coal. — Bituminous  coal,  much  of  it  cannel  coal,  exists  in  vast  beds  on 
both  sides  of  the  Missouri  river,  below  the  mouth  of  the  Osage,  and  40 
miles  up  that  river.  The  great  cannel  coal-bed  in  Callaway  county  con- 
sists, in  one  place,  of  a  solid  stratum  2-1  feet,  and  in  another  75  feet  in 
thickness,  and  is  believed  to  be  the  largest  body  of  cannel  coal  known. 
Coal  is  also  found  in  the  neighborhood  of  Lexington,  and  in  many  other 
places. 

Rivers. — Missouri  enjoys  the  navigation  of  the  two  greatest  rivers  in 
the  United  States,  if  not  in  the  world.  By  means  of  the  Mississippi  river, 
which  coasts  her  entire  eastern  boundafy,  she  can  hold  commercial  inter- 
course with  the  most  northern  territory  of  the  Union,  with  the  whole  of 
the  valley  of  the  Ohio,  with  some  of  the  Atlantic  States,  and  with  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico.  By  means  of  the  Missouri,  her  other  great  river,  she 
may  extend  her  internal  commerce  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  besides  receiv- 
ing the  products  that  may  be  furnished  in  future  times  by  its  multitude 
of  tributaries.  The  Missouri  river  coasts  the  north-west  of  the  State  for 
about  200  miles,  (following  its  windings,)  and  then  darts  across  the  State 
in  a  direction  a  little  south  of  east,  dividing  it  into  two  portions,  of  which 
about  a  third  is  north,  and  the  remainder  south  of  that  river.  The  south 
shore  is  bounded  in  many  places  by  bluffs  of  from  100  to  300  feet  in 
hight,  while  the  north  is  often  bottom  lands,  not  generally  liable  to  inun- 
dation. Both  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  rivers  are  navigable  for  large 
steamers  far  beyond  the  limits  of  the  State,  though  the  navigation  of  the 
latter  is  impeded  by  the  swiftness  of  its  current  (twice  that  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi) and  by  the  shifting  sands.  The  Missouri  river  receives  a  num- 
ber of  tributaries  within  the  limits  of  the  State,  the  principal  of  which 
are  the  Chariton  and  Grand  rivers  from  the  north,  and  the  Osage  and 
Gasconade  from  the  south.  The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi 
river  within  the  State  are  the  Salt  river,  north,  and  the  Maramec  river, 
south  of  the  Missouri  river.  The  St.  Francis  and  White  rivers,  with  their 
branches,  drain  the  south-east  part  of  the  State,  and  pass  into  Arkansas. 
The  Osage  is  navigable  for  steamboats  275  miles,  and  it  is  proposed  to 
improve  its  navigation,  as  well  as  that  of  the  Grand,  Salt,  and  Maramec 
rivers.     Fine  plank  and  timber  are  floated  down  the  Gasconade  river. 

Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists. — We  shall  hardly  be  able  to  do 
justice  to  Missouri  in  this  respect,  in  the  present  state  of  our  knowledge 
of  the  interior,  as  there  are  doubtlsss,  in  her  mountain  recesses,  gorges, 
waterfalls,  and  caves  whose  fame  has  not  yet  reached  us.  To  the  geolo- 
gist, the  State  already  possesses  ample  inducements  for  a  visit;  while  the 
lover  of  fine  scenery  will  find  much  to  interest  him  in  the  wild  bluffs 
both  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Mississippi  rivers,  which  rise  to  an  elevation 
varying  from  50  to  300  feet.  In  the  south-east  part  of  the  State,  the 
scene  of  the  earthquakes  of  1811  and  1812,  may  be  viewed  many  traces 
of  that  startling  event :  among  others  are  to  be  seen,  at  the  bottoms  of 


596  Missouri. 

lakes,  submerged  forests  and  canebrakes.  Pilot  knob,  444  feet  bigh, 
and  Iron  mountain,  1,500  feet  higb,  tbe  former  of  steel,  as  it  is  said,  and 
tbe  latter  of  nearly  pure  iron,  are  well  worth  a  visit  from  tbe  curious  and 
scientific  tourist.  Big  spring,  at  tbe  bead  of  the  Maramec  river,  rising 
in  a  very  deep  basin,  100  feet  across,  and  surrounded  by  banks  as  many 
feet  in  perpendicular  bight,  gives  rise  to  a  stream  60  feet  wide,  and  3 
feet  deep,  and  with  sufficient  force  to  turn  2  mills  at  its  source.  The 
water  is  extremely  cold.  Schoolcraft  describes  a  cave  near  some  of  the 
bead  waters  of  tbe  White  river  thus: — "The  opening  appeared  to  be  80 
or  90  feet  wide,  and  30  high.  A  vast  gloomy  rotunda  opened  before  us, 
which  very  soon  after  entry  increased  to  a  hight  of  60  or  70  feet,  and  in 
width  to  150  or  200  feet.  This  hall  extended  into  the  rock  southerly, 
branching  off  into  lateral  avenues.  We  explored  the  main  gallery  for 
500  or  600  yards,  when  we  met  with  obstructions." 

Climate. — The  climate  of  Missouri  is  very  variable  :  in  tbe  winter 
the  thermometer  sinks  below  zero,  and  the  rivers  are  frozen  so  as  to  ad- 
mit the  passage  of  heavily  laden  vehicles.  Tbe  summers  are  excessively 
hot,  but  the  air  dry  and  pure.  In  the  autumns,  bilious  and  remittent 
fevers  are  common  on  the  river  bottoms.  Pulmonary  complaints,  how- 
ever, to  such  a  degree  as  to  terminate  in  consumption,  are  infrequent. 

Soil  and  Productions. — The  soil  of  Missouri,  speaking  generally,  is 
good,  and  of  great  agricultural  capabilities;  but  the  most  fertile  portions 
are  in  the  river  bottoms,  which  are  a  rich  alluvion,  (in  some  cases,  how- 
ever, mixed  with  sand,)  and  in  that  portion  north  of  the  Missouri  river, 
except  in  the  east  where  a  sandy  soil  prevails.  South  of  the  Missouri 
there  is  a  greater  variety  in  the  soil,  but  much  of  it  is  fertile,  and  even  in 
the  mountains  and  mineral  districts  there  are  rich  valleys,  and  about  the 
sources  of  the  White,  Eleven  Points,  Current,  and  Big  Black  rivers,  the 
soil,  though  unproductive,  furnishes  a  valuable  growth  of  yellow  pine. 
The  marshy  district  of  the  south-east  part  will,  when  the  population  shall 
have  become  sufficiently  dense  to  justify  the  expense  of  drainage,  be 
probably  one  of  the  most  fertile  portions  of  the  State.  The  great  staple 
of  Missouri  is  Indian  corn,  and  more  hemp  is  produced  than  in  any  State 
except  Kentucky.  The  other  great  products  are  wheat,  oats,  tobacco, 
wool,  peas,  beans,  Irish  and  sweet  potatoes,  fruits,  butter,  cheese,  pork, 
hay,  flax,  honey,  and  beeswax;  considerable  rye,  buckwheat,  market  pro- 
ducts, grass-seeds,  maple  sugar,  and  some  rice,  barley,  wine,  hops,  silk, 
and  molasses.  In  1850  there  were  in  the  State  54,458  farms,  occupying 
2,938,426  acres  of  improved  land,  (less  than  60  acres  to  each  farm,)  and 
producing  2,981,625  bushels  of  wheat;  44,268  of  rye;  36,214,537  of 
Indian  corn;  5,278,079  of  oats;  46,017  of  peas  and  beans;  936,006  of 
Irish  potatoes;  335,505  of  sweet  potatoes;  23,641  of  buckwheat;  13.696 
of  flaxseed;  17,113,784  pounds  of  tobacco;  1,627,164  of  wool;  7,834,359 
of  butter;  203,572  of  cheese;  116,925  tons  of  hay;  16,028  of  hemp; 
527,160  pounds  of  flax;  178,910  of  maple  sugar;  1,328,972  of  beeswax 
and  honey;  orchard  products  valued  at  $514,711;  market  products,  $99,- 
454;  live  stock,  $19,887,580;  and  slaughtered  animals,  $3,367,106. 

Forest  and  Fruit  Trees. — "The  river  bottoms  are  covered  with  a 
luxuriant  growth  of  oak,  elm,  ash,  hickory,  cottonwood,  linn,  and  white 


MISSOURI.  597 

and  black  walnut.  In  the  more  barren  districts  are  found  white  and  pin 
oak,  and  sometimes  forests  of  yellow  pine.  The  crab-apple,  papaw,  and 
persimmon  are  abundant;  as  also  the  hazel  and  pecan."  There  are  3 
species  of  wild  grape;  and  apples,  pears,  peaches,  apricots,  and  nectarines 
yield  well. 

Manufactures. — Missouri  has  not  as  yet  largely  engaged  in  this 
branch  of  industrial'  employments;  though  in  1850,  there  were  3,030 
establishments,  each  producing  $500  and  upwards  annually;  2  of  tlicse 
were  cotton  factories,  employing  $102,000  capital,  75  male  and  80  female 
hands,  consuming  raw  material  worth  $86,446,  and  producing  13,260 
bales  of  batting,  valued  at  $142,000;  1  woolen  factory,  employing  $20,- 
000  capital,  15  male  and  10  female  hands,  consuming  raw  material  worth 
316,000,  and  producing  12,000  yards  of  cloth,  and  6,000  pairs  of  blank- 
ets, worth  a  total  value  of  $56,000 ;  13  iron  forges,  founderies,  etc.,  em- 
ploying $848,100  capital,  and  722  male  hands,  consuming  raw  material 
worth  $254,996,  and  producing  25,413  tons  of  pig,  cast,  and  wrought 
iron,  valued  at  $719,795;  capital  invested  in  the  manufacture  of  malt, 
and  spirituous  liquors,  $298,900,  consuming  124,400  bushels  of  barley, 
309,200  of  Indian  corn,  24,900  of  rye,  and  31  tons  of  hops,  producing 
44,850  barrels  of  ale,  etc.,  and  939,400  gallons  of  wine,  whisky,  etc.; 
and  148  tanneries,  employing  $228,095  capital,  consuming  raw  material 
worth  $247,956,  and  producing  leather  valued  at  $866,241.  Homemade 
manufactures  were  produced  to  the  value  of  $1,674,705. 

Internal  Improvements. — On  the  1st  of  January,  1855,  Missouri** 
had  50  miles  (that  portion  of  the  Pacific  nearest  to  St.  Louis)  of  completed 
railroad,  and,  according  to  Hunt's  Merchant's  Magazine,  963  in  course 
of  construction,  intended  to  connect  Hannibal  with  St.  Joseph,  and  St. 
Louis  with  Kansas — the  great  Pacific  railroad.  Another  road,  a  branch 
of  the  Pacific,  is  to  connect  St.  Louis  and  Springfield  with  Neosho.  A 
railroad  is  also  contemplated  from  St.  Louis  northward  to  the  Iowa  line, 
and  one  from  the  same  point  to  Iron  mountain.  Plank-roads  are  coming 
much  into  vogue  in  this  State,  as  well  as  elsewhere.  Three  per  cent,  on 
the  sale  of  public  lauds  is  devoted  to  internal  improvements.  The 
State  loans  $3,000,000  to  the  Pacific,  $750,000  to  the  Iron  mountain,  and 
$1,000,000  to  the  St.  Joseph  railroad. 

Commerce. — St.  Louis  is  the  great  center  of  internal  commerce  of 
the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries,  which  must  greatly  increase  as  the  set- 
tlements on  those  great  rivers  extend  themselves.  It  is  also  the  depot 
of  the  fur  trade  of  the  Upper  Missouri  and  its  tributaries.  The  foreign 
imports  of  Missouri  (a  very  small  part  of  its  trade)  amounted,  in 
1852-53,  to  $859,654;  tonnage  of  the  State,  45,441,  of  which  39,431  was 
steam  tonnage;  number  of  vessels  built,  22,  of  which  11  were  steamers; 
tonnage  3,583.  Of  1,195  steamers  owned  in  the  United  States  in  1853, 
126  belonged  to  St.  Louis.  The  exports  of  this  State  consist  mainly  of 
lead,  pork,  flour,  wheat,  tobacco,  hemp,  flax,  and  live  stock.  Missouri 
has  long  been  the  principal  seat  of  an  active  caravan  trade  with  Santa 
Fe;  but  this  trade  is  not  so  extensive  as  formerly,  a  considerable  portion 
having  been  diverted  to  Texas.  (See  St.  Louis.)  The  leading  articles 
imported  by  way  of  the  Ohio,  Missouri,  and  Mississippi  and  its  tributa- 


598  .  Missouri. 

ries,  in  1854,  were  wheat,  corn,  flour,  barley,  oats,  tobacco,  hemp,  coffee, 
hides,  pork,  lead,  lard,  meats  of  different  kinds,  molasses,  sugar,  nails, 
paper,  potatoes,  salt,  rope,  whiskey,  etc. 

Education. — Missouri  has  a  school  fund  of  8575,668,  and  another 
fund  of  8100,000,  called  the  seminary  fund.  The  State  also  appropriates 
one-fourth  of  its  revenue  to  the  support  of  schools ;  making  an  annual 
income  of  about  8140,000,  which  is  distributed  among  the  counties. 
Every  16th  section  of  the  public  lands  is  devoted  to  common  schools. 
According  to  the  census  of  1850,  this  State  had  9  colleges,  with  1,009 
students,  and  879,528  income,  of  which  823,000  was  from  endowments; 
1,570  public  schools,  with  51,754  pupils,  and  8160,770  income,  of  which 
874,807  was  from  public  funds,  83,024  from  taxation,  and  87,178  from 
endowments;  204  academies  and  other  schools,  with  8,829  pupils,  and 
8143,171  income;  95,285  attending  school,  as  returned  by  families. 
According  to  the  American  Almanac  for  1854,  there  were  in  this 
State  6  colleges,  with  548  students,  and  2  medical  schools,  with 
210  students.  The  State  University,  located  at  Columbia,  in  Boone 
county,  is  endowed  with  six  townships  of  land  by  the  general  govern- 
ment. Four  counties  contended  for  the  honor  of  having  it  located  with- 
in their  limits,  and  it  was  accorded  to  Boone  because  its  citizens  sub- 
scribed most  liberally  to  its  funds.  Howard  high  school,  at  Fayette,  in 
Howard  county,  is  a  flourishing  and  successful  school.  St.  Charles  col- 
lege, at  the  town  of  St.  Charles,  was  established  by  Mr.  Collier,  who 
bequeathed  the  institution  810,000.  Of  the  free  adult  population,  36,- 
778,  of  whom  1,861  were  of  foreign  birth,  could  not  read  and  write. 

Religious  Denominations. — Of  878  churches  in  Missouri  in  1850, 
the  different  sects  of  Baptists  owned  300;  the  Christian  church,  57; 
the  Episcopalians,  11 ;  the  Free  church,  13  ;  the  Lutherans,  21  ;  the 
Methodists,  250;  the  Presbyterians,  125;  the  Roman  Catholics,  65;  and 
the  Union  church,  11.  The  rest  belonged  to  the  Boatmen's  church,  the 
Church  of  Christ,  the  Evangelists,  the  German  Protestants,  the  German 
Evangelical  church,  the  Independents,  the  Jews,  the  Mennonites,  the 
Mormons,  the  Republicans,  the  Rationalists,  the  Unitarians,  and  the  Uni- 
versalists— giving  one  church  to  every  776  inhabitants.  Value  of 
church  property,  81.561,610. 

Periodicals. — There  were  published  in  Missouri,  in  1850,  5  daily,  4 
tri  and  semi-weekly,  45  weekly,  and  7  monthly  newspapers  and  maga- 
zines, with  an  annual  aggregate  circulation  of  6,195,560  copies. 

Public  Institutions. — The  State  penitentiary  at  Jefferson  city  had, 
in  December,  1852,  232  convicts  confined  within  its  walls,  of  whom  145 
were  from  the  county  of  St.  Louis.  This  institution  is  conducted  by 
lessees,  who  pay  an  annual  rent  of  85,000  to  the  State.  In  1853,  the 
Lunatic  asylum  at  Fulton  had  93  inmates;  and  the  Deaf  and  Dumb 
asylum  at  the  same  place  43.  The  Blind  asylum  at  St.  Louis  is  being 
enlarged.  There  were,  in  1850,  13  public  libraries,  with  23,106  volumes; 
79  school  and  Sunday-school,  with  31,650  volumes;  4  colleges,  with 
19,700,  and  1  church  library,  with  600  volumes. 

Population. — Though  originally  settled  by  the  French,  less  than 
one-third  of  one  per  cent,  of  the  present  inhabitants  of  Missouri  are 


.< 


Missouri.  599 

of  that  extraction.  The  population  amounted  to  20,845  in  1810;  66,- 
586  in  1820;  140,145  in  1830  ;  383,702  in  1840  ;  and  682,044  in  1850  ; 
of  whom  312,987  were  white  males,  and  279,017  females ;  1,361  free 
colored  males,  and  1,257  females  ;  43,484  male  slaves,  and  43,938  female. 
Population  to  the  square  mile,  10.49.  This  population  was  divided  into 
100,890  familes,  occupying  96,849  dwellings.  In  the  year  ending  June, 
1850,  12,121  deaths  occurred,  or  nearly  19  in  every  1,000  persons;  in 
the  same  period  2,977  paupers  received  aid,  of  whom  1,729  were  for- 
eigners, at  an  expense  of  about  $18  to  each  pauper.  Of  the  free  popu- 
lation, 266,934  were  born  in  the  State;  250,166  in  other  States;  5,379 
in  England;  14,734  in  Ireland;  1,225  in  Wales  and  Scotland;  1,053  in 
British  America;  44,352  in  Germany;  2,138  in  France;  3,593  in  other 
countries;  and  1,322  whose  places  of  birth  were  unknown;  making 
more  than  one-eighth  of  the  population  of  foreign  birth.  There  were  in 
the  State,  according  to  the  census,  282  deaf  and  dumb,  of  whom  19 
were  slaves;  232  blind,  of  whom  3  were  free  colored,  and  38  slaves; 
262  insane,  of  whom  2  were  free  colored  and  11  slaves;  and  357  idiots, 
of  whom  32  were  slaves.  According  to  a  State  census  in  1852,  the  pop- 
ulation of  Missouri  was  724,687,  of  whom  87,207  were  slaves.  Of  the 
entire  population  in  1850,  742  were  engaged  in  mining;  92,408  in 
agriculture;  2,522  in  commerce;  11,100  in  manufactures;  39  in  navigat- 
ing the  ocean;  1,885  in  internal  navigation;  and  l,469in  the  learned 
professions. 

Counties. — There  are  in  Missouri  101  counties,  viz.,  Adair,  Andrew, 
Atchison,  Audrain,  Barry,  Bates,  Benton,  Boone,  Buchanan,  Butler, 
Caldwell,  Callaway,  Camden,  Cape  Girardeau,  Carroll,  Cass,  Cedar, 
Chariton,  Clarke,  Clay,  Clinton,  Cole,  Cooper,  Crawford,  Dade,  Dallas, 
Daviess,  De  Kalb,  Dodge,  Dunklin,  Franklin,  Gasconade,  Gentry,  Greene, 
Grundy,  Harrison,  Henry,  Hickory,  Holt,  Howard,  Jackson,  Jasper, 
Jefferson,  Johnson,  Knox,  Laclede,  Lafayette,  Lawrence,  Lewis,  Lincoln, 
Linn,  Livingston,  Macon,  McDonald,  Madison,  Marion,  Mercer,  Miller, 
Mississippi,  Moniteau,  Monroe,  Morgan,  Montgomery,  New  Madrid, 
Newton,  Nodaway,  Oregon,  Osage,  Ozark,  Perry,  Pettis,  Pike,  Platte, 
Polk,  Pulaski,  Putnam,  Ralls,  Randolph,  Ray,  Reynolds,  Ripley,  Scot- 
land, St.  Charles,  St.  Clair,  St.  Francis,  St.  Genevieve,  St.  Louis,  Salina, 
Schuyler,  Scott,  Seneca,  Shannon,  Shelby,  Stoddard,  Sullivan,  Taney, 
Texas,  Warren,  Washington,  Wayne,  and  Wright.  Capital,  Jefferson 
city. 

Cities  and  Towns. — St.  Louis  is  the  largest  city  in  Missouri.  Pop- 
ulation in  1850,  77,854,(120,000  in  1854;  the  other  principal  towns 
are  St.  Joseph's,  population  about  5,000;  Hannibal,  2,557;  Lexington, 
2,698;  Castor,  2,084;  Jefferson  city  and  St.  Charles  city,  about  3,000 
each;  Weston,  1,915;  Cape  Girardeau,  1,500;  Palmyra,  1,284;  Caron- 
delet,  1,201 ;  and  St.  Genevieve,  Liberty,  Paris,  and  Louisiana  city,  each 
about  1,000. 

Government,  Finances,  etc. — The  governor  and  lieutenant  governor 
are  elected  by  the  popular  vote  for  4  years,  the  former  receiving  S2,000 
per  annum,  and  the  use  of  a  furnished  house,  and  the  latter  $4.50  per 
diem  during  the  session  of  the  senate,  of  which  he  is  ex-officio  president. 


600  MISSOURI. 

The  senate  consists  of  18,  and  the  house  of  representatives  of  49  mem-  ■ 
bers,  the  former  elected  for  4  and  the  latter  for  2  years,  by  the  people. 
The 'sessions  of  the  legislature  are  biennial,  and  meet  on  the  first  Monday 
in  December.  Twelve  months'  residence  in  the  State  is  necessary  before 
exercising  the  right  of  suffrage.  Missouri  is  entitled  to  7  members  in 
the  national  house  of  representatives,  and  to  9  electoral  votes  for  pre- 
sident. The  judiciary  consists — 1.  Of  a  supreme  court,  composed  of  3 
judges;  2.  Of  14  circuit  courts,  and  the  courts  of  St.  Louis,  (viz.,  com- 
mon pleas",  criminal,  and  probate  courts,)  and  the  common  pleas  courts 
of  Hannibal  city;  and  3.  Of  county  courts.  The  judges  of  the  su- 
preme and  circuit  courts  are  elected  for  6  years,  by  popular  vote,  and  the 
county  judges  for  4  years  in  the  same  manner.  The  supreme  court  holds 
2  sessions  annually,  one  at  St.  Louis  and  one  at  Jefferson  city.  A 
circuit  court  is  held  twice  a  year  in  each  county,  and  has  exclusive  juris- 
diction in  criminal  matters,  and  in  all  contracts  and  matters  of  tort  over 
$90.  The  county  court  is  limited  to  matters  of  the  probate  and  local 
county  affairs.  The  judges  of  the  supreme  court  receive  $1,800  salary 
each;  the  circuit  judges  $1,250  each,  and  the  judges  of  the  St.  Louis 
courts  $3,000.  There  is  a  recorder's  court  at  St.  Louis,  confined  to 
small  offenses.  The  assessed  value  of  property  in  the  State  in  1850 
was  $98,595,463;  public  debt,  (in  1854,)  $3,307,000,  of  which  $2,450,- 
000  was  loans  to  railroads;  school  fund,  $575,668;  other  productive 
property,  $272,263  ;  receipts  for  the  two  years  ending  October  1,  1854, 
$808,685 ;  expenses,  $628,483.  Missouri  had,  in  January,  1854, 1  bank 
with  five  branches,  with  $1,215,405  capital,  $937,835  in  coin,  and  $2,- 
487  580  circulation.  The  amount  of  bonds  authorized  to  be  loned  to 
railroads  was  originally  $8,250,000,  of  which,  as  stated,  $2,450,000  have 
already  been  issued. 

History. — Though  the  French  were  the  first  settlers,  and  for  a  long 
time  the  principal  inhabitants  of  Missouri,  yet  a  very  small  portion  of 
her  present  population  is  of  that  descent.     A   fort   was  built  by   that 
people  as  early  as  1719,  near  the  site  of  the  present  capital,  called  Fort 
Orleans,  and  its  lead-mines  worked  to  some  extent  the  next  year.     St. 
G-enevieve,  the  oldest  town  in   the  State,  was  settled  in  1755,  and  St. 
Louis  in  1764.     At   the  treaty  of  1763,  it  was  assigned,  with  all  the 
Territory  west  of  the  Mississippi,  to  Spain.     "In  1780,  St.  Louis  was 
besieged   and  attacked  by  a  body  of  British  troops  and  Indians,    1,540 
stron°."     During  the  siege,  60  of  the  French  were  killed.     The  seige 
was  raised  by  Colonel  Clark,  an  American,  who   came  with  500  men  to 
the   relief  of  the  place.     At  the  close  of  the  American  Revolution,  the 
Territory  west  of  the  Mississippi  remained  with  Spain  till  it  was  ceded  to 
France  in  1801.     In  1803,  at  the  purchase  of  Louisiana,  it  came  into  the 
possession  of  the  United  States,  and  formed  a  part  of  the  Territory  of  Lou- 
isana  till  the  formation  of  the  State  of  that  name  in  1812,  when  the  re- 
mainder of  the  Territory  was    named    Missouri,  from   which    (after   a 
stormy  debate  in  Congress  as  to  the  admission  of  slavery)  was  separated 
the  present  State  of  Missouri  in  1821.     In  1811  and  1812  occurred  a 
series  of  earthquakes  which,  in  the  neighborhood  of  New  Madrid  in  this 
State,  caused  the  earth  to  open,  and  entirely  changed  the  face  of  the 


MISSOURI.  •  601 

•country,  swallowing  up  hills  and  forming  new  lakes,  while  others  at  the 
same  time  were  drained  of  their  water.  The  current  of  the  Mississippi 
was  turned  back  till  the  accumulating  waters  gained  sufficient  force  to 
break  through  the  newly  raised  barrier.  All  this  region  is  now  a  widely 
extended  marsh. 

St.  Louis,  port  of  entry,  and  seat  of  justice  of  St.  Louis  county,  is 
situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi  river,  20  miles  below  the 
entrance  of  the  Missouri,  174  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  74-4  below 
the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  1,194  above  New  Orleans,  and  128  miles  east 
of  Jefferson  city.  Latitude  38°  87'  28"  north,  longitude  90°  15'  16" 
west.  The  site  rises  from  the  river  by  two  plateaus  of  limestone  forma- 
tion, the  first  20  and  the  other  60  feet  above  the  floods  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. The  ascent  to  the  first  plateau,  or  bottom  as  it  may  be  termed, 
is  somewhat  abrupt;  the  second  rises  more  gradually,  and  spreads  out 
into  an  extensive  plain,  affording  fine  views  of  the  city  and  river.  St. 
Louis  extends  in  all  nearly  7  miles  by  the  curve  of  the  Mississippi,  and 
about  3  miles  back;  the  thickly -settled  portion,  however,  is  only  2  or  2£ 
miles  in  length,  following  the  river,  and  about  14;  miles  in  breadth.  The 
city  is  well  laid  out,  the  streets  being  for  the  most  part  60  feet  wide, 
and,  with  but  few  exceptions,  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles. 
Front  street,  extending  along  the  levee,  is  upwards  of  100  feet  wide,  and 
built  up  on  the  side  facing  the  river,  with  a  range  of  massive  stone 
warehouses,  which  make  an  imposing  appearance  as  the  city  is  approached 
by  water.  Front,  Main,  and  Second  streets,  parallel  to  each  other  and 
to  the  river,  are  the  seat  of  the  principal  wholesale  business.  The  latter 
is  occupied  with  heavy  grocery,  iron,  receiving,  and  shipping  houses. 
Fourth  street,  the  fashionable  promenade,  contains  the  finest  retail 
stores.  The  streets  parallel  to  Front  and  Main  streets,  are  designated 
Second  street,  Third,  Fourth,  Fifth,  and  so  on;  and  those  on  the  right 
and  left  of  Market  street,  extending  at  right  angles  with  the  river,  are 
mostly  named  from  various  forest  trees,  similar  to  the  streets  of  Philadel- 
phia. Large  expenditures  have  been  made  from  time  to  time  in  grading 
and  otherwise  improving  the  streets  and  alleys  of  St.  Louis.  As  yet, 
but  slight  provision  has  been  made  for  public  squares.  One  handsome 
enclosure,  however,  called  Lafayette  square,  has  recently  been  laid  out 
in  the  south  section  of  the  city,  about  2  miles  south-west  of  the  court- 
house. St.  Louis  is  handsomely  built,  especially  the  new  portion  of  the 
city;  the  principal  material  is  brick,  though  limestone  is  employed  to 
some  extent. 

Public  Buildings. — It  may  be  doubted  whether  any  city  of  the 
Union  has  improved  more  rapidly  than  this  in  the  style  of  its  public 
buildings.  But  24  years  ago  a  court-house  was  erected  at  a  cost  of 
$14,000;  it  was  then  considered  a  handsome  edifice,  and  sufficient  for 
all  future  purposes.  Within  a  few  years,  however,  this  building  has 
given  place  to  a  new  structure,  now  nearly  completed,  the  cost  of  which 
will  scarcely  fall  short  of  half  a  million  of  dollars.  It  is  constructed  of 
Genevieve  limestone,  and  occupies  an  entire  square,  bounded  by  Market, 
Chestnut,  Fourth,  and  Fifth  streets.  The  style  of  architecture  some- 
what resembles  that  of  the   Capitol  at  Washington.      The  fronts  are 


602  MISSOURI. 

adorned  with  porticos,  and  in  the  interior  is  a  rotunda,  lighted  from  the 
dome.  The  '-market  and  town-house,"  erected  at  a  cost  of  820,000, 
has  been  pulled  down,  and  the  "Center  market  buildings,"  a  handsome 
block,  now  occupies  their  place.  A  new  city  hall  is  about  to  be  erected, 
of  a  size  and  style  corresponding  to  the  present  prospects  of  the  city. 
A  new  custom-house  is  now  being  built,  at  an  estimated  cost  of  about 
8350,000.  Of  the  4  churches— the  Catholic,  the  Presbyterian,  the 
Episcopal,  and  the  Baptist— which  were  all  the  town  contained  in  1829, 
not  a  vestige  now  remains;  but  in  their  stead  had  arisen,  in  1850,  49 
others,  viz.,°12  Catholic,  12  Methodist,  8  Presbyterian,  5  Episcopal,  2 
Unitarian,  2  Evangelical,  and  1  Boatmens',  besides  2  Jewish  synagogues. 
At  the  present  time  the  number  of  churches  in  St.  Louis  is  probably  not 
less  than  60,  several  of  which  have  cost  above  8100,000.  Of  these,  St. 
George's  (Episcopal,)  at  the  corner  of  Locust  and  Seventh  streets,  the 
Catholic  Cathedral,  on  Walnut  street,  between  Second  and  Third,  and 
the  Church  of  the  Messiah,  a  magnificent  Gothic  edifice  recently  erected 
by  the  Unitarians,  at  the  corner  of  Olive  and  Ninth  streets,  are  regarded 
as  the  finest.  The  Cathedral  is  136  feet  long,  and  84  feet  wide,  with  a 
front  of  polished  freestone  58  feet  high,  adorned  with  a  Doric  portico. 
In  the  tower  is  a  chime  of  bells,  the  heaviest  of  which  weighs  2,600 
pounds.  The  United  States  arsenal,  situated  on  Arsenal  street,  in  the 
extreme  south-east  section  of  the  city,  is  a  large  and  imposing  edifice, 
enclosed  by  handsomely-ornamented  grounds.  Jefferson  Barracks  are 
located  about  13  miles  below,  on  the  bank  of  the  Mississippi. 

Hotels. — The  principal  hotels  in  St.  Louis  are  the  Planters'  house, 
on  Fourth  street,  between  Pine  and  Chestnut;  the  United  States  hotel, 
at  the  corner  of  Market  and  Third  streets;  the  Virginia  hotel,  corner 
of  Main  and  Green  streets;  the  Missouri  hotel,  corner  of  Main  and 
Morgan  streets;  and  the  Monroe  house,  at  the  corner  of  Second  and 
Olive  streets.  The  Planters'  house  is  one  of  the  largest  and  finest 
hotels  in  the  West,  and  occupies  the  entire  front  between  Pine  and 
Chestnut  streets.     Another  first-class  hotel  is  also  being  erected. 

Institutions. — Among  the  benevolent  institutions  may  be  mentioned 
the  city  hospital,  the  marine  hospital,  for  which  a  new  building  has 
just  been  erected,  3  miles  below  St.  Louis;  the  sisters'  hospital,  the 
home  for  the  friendless,  and  the  orphan  asylums.  The  home  for  the 
friendless,  designed  for  the  benefit  of  aged  indigent  females,  and 
opened  October  4th,  1853,  is  situated  on  the  Carondelet  road,  about  4 
miles  from  the  court-house.  The  edifice,  formerly  "  Swiss  College," 
consists  of  a  stone  center,  75  feet  in  length,  and  two  frame  wings,  each 
from  30  to  40  feet  in  length;  the  whole  two  stories  high.  _  The  premises 
comprise  about  8  acres  of  ground,  variously  diversified  with  walks  and 
shade-trees.  About  840,000  have  been  raised  for  the  support  of  the 
institution.  The  city  hospital  has  long  been  distinguished  for  the 
excellent  accommodations  which  it  affords  to  the  sick,  but  of  late  has 
been  found  inadequate  to  the  wants  of  the  rapidly-increasing  population. 
Its  extension,  therefore,  as  well  as  the  erection  of  new  and  suitable 
buildings  for  the  quarantine,  is  earnestly  recommended  in  the  mayor's 
message  of  October,  1853.      A  new  edifice,  intended  as  a  House  of 


MISSOURI.  603 

Refuse,  has  recently  been  completed,  and  the  building  formerly  occu- 
pied as  the  "Smallpox  hospital,"  situated  on  land  in  the  St.  Louis 
common,  known  as  the  Old  County  Farm,  has  also  been  fitted  up  for 
the  reception  of  a  juvenile  reform  school. 

The  literary  and  educational  institutions  of  St.  Louis  have,  consider- 
ing their  recent  origin,  attained  a  high  degree  of  excellence.  The 
University  of  St.  Louis,  organized  in  1S32,  under  the  direction  of  the 
Catholics,  is  a  well-ordered,  well-sustained,  and  most  efficient  institution. 
The  medical  college  connected  with  it  is  also  very  flourishing.  During 
the  term  for  1852-53,  it  was  attended  by  72  students;  and  on  the  1st 
October,  1853,  it  is  said  that  the  number  of  matriculants  enrolled  for 
the  ensuing  season,  was  four  times  greater  than  any  previous  year. 
The  medical  department  of  the  Missouri  university  is  also  located  here. 
It  was  founded  in  18-40,  and  during  the  winter  of  1852-53,  92  students 
attended  its  lectures.  The  members  of  both  these  colleges  enjoy  ex- 
cellent advantages  for  practice  in  the  City  hospital.  The  Mercantile 
Library  Association  of  St.  Louis  was  organized  in  1846,  and  incorpora- 
ted in  1851.  The  building  is  of  brick,  in  the  Italian  style,  105  feet  by 
127,  and  4  stories  high.  The  united  size  of  the  library  and  reading- 
room  is  80  feet  by  64.  The  lecture-room,  80  feet  by  44,  is  in  the 
second  story,  and  in  the  third  is  a  grand  hall,  the  largest  and  finest 
perhaps  in  the  whole  West,  being  105  feet  long  and  80  feet  wide.  The 
entire  co>t  of  building,  including  the  site,  is  estimated  at  895,000.  The 
library  contains  upwards  of  12,000  volumes,  besides  about  100  magazines 
and  other  periodicals,  apart  from  its  newspapers.  Any  person  of  mer- 
cantile pursuits  is  admitted  as  a  member  of  the  association;  clerks 
paying  S2  initiation  fee  and  75  cents  quarterly,  and  proprietors  85 
initiation  fee  and  $2.50  quarterly.  The  citizens  of  St.  Louis  have  given 
especial  attention  to  the  cause  of  popular  education.  Their  schools  are 
the  pride  of  the  city,  and  attended  by  upwards  of  5,000  pupils;  the 
property  is  valued  at  8500.000,  and  the  annual  income  amounts  to 
about  850,000.  A  large  number  of  pupils  are  also  educated  in  the 
private  seminaries  of  the  city,  and  in  the  convents.  The  buildings  of 
the  latter  are  conspicuous  and  handsome  edifices. 

St.  Louis  has  about  25  publication  offices,  issuing  newspapers  and 
other  periodicals.  Seven  or  eight  newspapers  are  published  daily;  and 
several  have  weekly,  and  two — the  Times  and  the  Republican — have 
tri-weekly  and  weekly  editions.  Four  or  five  are  printed  in  the  German 
language.  The  press  is  generally  characterized  by  ability,  and  several 
of  its  issues  have  a  wide  circulation. 

Real  Estate,  Improvements,  ltc. — The  value  of  real  estate  in  St. 
Louis  has  advanced  at  an  astonishingly  rapid  rate.  In  1822,  the  trus- 
tees 'of  the  First  Presbyterian  church  purchased  a  lot  fronting  150  feet 
on  Fourth  street,  and  90  feet  on  Washington  avenue  and  St.  Charles 
streets,  for  8300.  In  April,  1853,  the  ground  was  leased  for  a  term  of 
50  years  at  the  rate  of  84,000  per  annum.  Since  then,  seven  splendid 
stores  have  been  erected  on  it,  at  a  cost  of  850,000.  The  lot  at  the 
corner  of  Third  and  Chestnut  streets,  extending  120  feet  on  the  former, 
and  150  feet  along  the  latter,  was  sold  in   1826  for  8400.     It  is  now 


604  MISSOURI. 

valued  at  $30,000,  exclusive  of  the  improvements.  In  1831,  Judge 
Lucas  conveyed  to  Samuel  Wiggins  a  lot  90  feet  front  and  135  deep,  at 
the  corner  of  Fifth  and  Chestnut  streets,  upon  which  Christ  church  now 
stands,  for  the  sum  of  $1,600.  The  value  of  the  same  ground  is  now 
estimated  at  $22,000.  In  1833,  a  block  situated  between  Fourth  and 
Fifth  streets,  and  Locust  and  St.  Charles  streets,  was  sold  for  $6,000;  it 
is  now  said  to  be  worth  $182,000.  In  1835,  the  trustees  of  the  Unita- 
rian church  purchased  a  lot  at  the  corner  of  Fourth  and  Pine  streets, 
127  feet  deep,  and  60  feet  front  on  Fourth  street,  for  $2,000,  or  $33.33 
per  front  foot.  Two  years  ago  it  was  sold  for  $24,000,  or  $100  per  front 
foot,  and  in  1853  it  was  supposed  to  be  worth  $600  per  front  foot.  In 
1814,  a  meadow  belonging  to  Judge  Carr  was  laid  off  into  lots,  and  sold 
at  auction,  on  ten  years'  credit,  at  prices  varying  from  $8  to  $18  per  lot. 
What  was  then  a  meadow  now  contains  a  population  of  not  less  than 
4,000  souls,  and  the  lots  are  valued  at  four  times  their  original  cost. 
Real  estate  investments  on  Front  and  Main  streets  vary  from  $700  to 
$800  per  front  foot;  and  on  Second  street,  lots  which  five  years  ago 
could  be  bought  for  $100  or  $150  per  front  foot,  now  sell  for  $500. 

There  has  also  been  a  corresponding  advance  in  real  estate  lying  with- 
out the  city.  Land  which  in  1842-43  sold  at  prices  varying  from  $75  to 
$150  per  acre,  now  brings  from  $1,200  to  $2,000.  In  1847-48,  two 
estates  in  the  south  part  of  the  city  were  disposed  of  in  lots,  the  sales  of 
which  ranged  from  $1.50  to  $4  per  front  foot.  Now  the  same  property 
sells  as  high  as  $40  per  foot.  And  finally,  six  years  ago  land  that  could 
be  purchased  in  the  common,  south  of  the  city,  for  about  $75  per  acre, 
now  commands  $1,000,  and  but  little  is  to  be  obtained  even  at  that 
price.  The  city  of  St.  Louis  owns  600  acres  of  these  lands,  and  has 
claims  upon  as  much  more. 

The  revenue  of  the  city  twenty  years  ago,  as  ascertained  from  the 
assessment  list,  was  $4,765.98.  In  1853  the  assessed  valuation  of 
property,  though  falling  far  below  its  real  value,  was  $39,397,186,  upon 
which  a  tax  of  $413,670  is  collected,  independent  of  $46,000  arising 
from  the  sale  of  licences.  The  assessed  value  of  merchandise  amounted 
to  $8,744,786.64,  an  increase  of  $2,299,606.57  over  1852.  The  highest 
tax  paid  by  any  individual  in  1829  was  $532;  now,  one  gentleman, 
J.  H.  Lucas,  Esq.,  pays  in  his  own  name  a  city  tax  of  $14,000;  nor 
does  this  include  the  whole  of  his  assessment,  as  much  of  his  property  is 
held  conjointly  with  others. 

The  water-works,  which  in  1829  were  of  very  inconsiderable  impor- 
tance, embraced,  in  1853,  above  35  miles  of  pipe.  The  main  reservoir, 
built  in  1849,  is  capable  of  containing  5,000,000  gallons  of  water,  being 
250  feet  square,  and  15  feet  deep.  It  occupies  the  south-west  quarter 
of  an  enclosure  660  feet  on  a  side,  situated  at  the  head  of  Olive  street,  to 
which  water  is  forced  from  the  river  by  stationary  engines,  a  distance 
of  If  miles.  Since  the  above  date,  a  new  reservoir  has  been  con- 
structed, the  water  from  which  is  superior  in  purity  to  that  furnished 
fiom  the  old  one.  It  has  also  been  contemplated  to  erect  a  water-tower 
on  the  site  of  the  old  reservoir  on  Broadway,  of  sufficient  capacity  to  be 
a  valuable  adjunct  in  the  event  of  large  fires.     Gas-works  were  put  in 


MISSOURI.  605 

operation  about  8  years  since,  and  their  magnitude  may  be  inferred  from 
the  fact  that,  in  1853,  33  miles  of  street-pipe  -were  laid  throughout 
the  city. 

The  levee,  which  20  years  ago  was  a  mere  mud-bank,  with  transverse 
ways  to  the  water's  edge,  has  since  undergone  very  important  changes. 
Great  expenditures  have  been  made  in  filling  up  and  otherwise  im- 
proving it  directly  in  front  of  the  city;  and  at  a  session  of  the  gov- 
ernmental authorities,  in  the  spring  of  1853,  an  appropriation  of 
$200,000  was  made,  one  half  to  be  expended  north  of  Cherry,  and 
the  other  half  south  of  Plum  street.  Extensive  improvements  in 
the  harbor  are  also  being  made.  The  expenditures  for  this  purpose, 
from  April  11  to  October,  1852,  amounted  to  $50,256.  A  roadway 
has  recently  been  constructed  from  the  Illinois  shore  to  and  serosa 
Blood  Island.  It  is  three  feet  above  high-water  mark,  and  cost  about 
$150,000. 

Manufactures. — The  manufactures  of  St.  Louis,  although  in  their 
infancy,  are  hardly  less  important  than  her  commerce.  The  flouring 
business  is  carried  on  here  more  extensively  than  in  any  city  of  the 
west.  The  product  of  the  19  mills  of  the  city  amounted,  in  1851,  to 
408,099  barrels;  in  1852,  to  383,184  barrels;  and  in  1853,  to  457,076 
barrels;  their  daily  capacity  is  estimated  at  3,000  barrels.  At  Belcher's 
sugar-refinery,  which  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  in  the  Union,  the 
yield  for  1853  amounted  to  16,563  boxes,  7,958  hogsheads,  12,457 
barrels,  and  29,848  bags  of  refined  sugar,  besides  103,550  packages  and 
10,567  barrels  refined  from  molasses  and  cane  sirup.  There  are  also 
several  other  sugar-refiners.  The  manufacture  of  different  kinds  of 
chemicals  and  oils  is  extensively  carried  on.  The  quantity  of  oil  pro- 
duced from  lard  in  1852  was  estimated  at  between  4,000  and  5,000 
barrels,  an  increase  of  1,000  barrels  over  the  previous  year.  In  1853, 
there  were  received  at  the  principal  oil  manufactory  of  the  city  22,931 
bushels  of  flaxseed,  being  an  increase  of  8,880  bushels  over  the  previous 
year.  There  are  in  St.  Louis  10  establishments  for  the  manufacture  of 
tobacco,  several  of  which  are  on  a  large  scale;  these  yielded,  in  1852, 
8,000  packages,  consuming  700  hogsheads  of  raw  material.  The  manu- 
facture of  hemp  into  bale-rope  and  bagging,  and  the  distilling  of  whisky, 
also  employ  a  large  amount  of  capital.  But  however  important  these 
several  interests  may  be  in  themselves,  they  can  hardly  be  regarded  as 
the  most  important  to  St.  Louis.  Indeed,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that 
the  development  of  the  vast  mineral  resources  of  the  region  tributary  to 
her,  is  destined  to  exert  a  controlling  influence  upon  the  future  of  this 
metropolis.  Her  manufactures  of  iron  already  exceed  those  of  any  other 
city  on  the  Mississippi,  if  not  in  the  west.  Numerous  founderies 
annually  turn  out  stoves  and  other  castings  to  a  large  amount.  Railing, 
machinery,  and  steam-engines  are  extensively  manufactured.  A  large 
establishment  for  the  production  of  locomotives  went  into  operation  in 
1853.  Mining  operations  have  already  been  commenced  at  Iron 
mountain ;  from  this  source  Messrs.  Chouteau,  Valli  and  Harrison  obtain 
the  material  for  their  extensive  rolling  mill.  Coopering  and  the  pack- 
ing of  meat  are  likewise  important  branches  of  business;  the  latter, 
39 


606 


MISSOURI. 


for  1852,  comprised  47,000  hogs,  and  about  3,000  barrels  of  beef.  The 
above  statements  indicate  only  a  few  of  the  leading  manufactures  of  St. 
Louis.  According  to  the  census  returns  of  1850,  the  number  of  estab- 
lishments in  operation  in  the  city  exceeded  13,000,  comprising  about 
100  different  manufactures,  which  amounted  in  value  to  upwards  of 
$15,000,000.  Since  then,  nearly  every  branch  of  this  species  of  in- 
dustry has  been  greatly  extended — probably  doubled. 

Shipping,  Commerce,  etc. — Each  stream  which  contributes  to  th 
commerce  of  St.  Louis  has  its  regular  packets,  and  for  the  most  part, 
a  separate  place  of  landing.  The  Missouri,  the  Illinois,  and  the  Upper 
Mississippi  have  as  fine  craft  as  float  on  the  Western  waters,  while  the 
down-river,  or  New  Orleans  traders,  are  scarcely  excelled  in  size,  equip- 
ment, speed,  and  construction.  The  St.  Louis  boats  also  visit  the  Ohio, 
the  Wabash,  the  Tennessee,  and  other  streams.  With  such  an  immense 
inland  navigation,  the  commerce  of  the  port  requires  a  large  number  of 
steamers,  and  its  tonnage  in  this  respect  exceeds  that  of  every  other 
Western  city.  The  following  table  exhibits  the  monthly  arrival  of 
steamboats  at  St.  Louis,  from  the  various  rivers  and  places  specified 
in  1852. 


MONTHS. 


January. . 
February. 
March. . . . 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August . . . 
September 
October  ... 
November 
December  , 

Total... 


o 

is 


20 
24 
27 
32 
37 
25 
35 
21 
22 
34 
26 
27 


330 


a 

o 


12 
25 
47 
64 
74 
44 
35 
34 
42 
55 
40 
48 


520 


1 

88 
80 
78 
94 
73 
72 
37 
78 
94 
97 
66 


1 
17 

45 

72 
82 
57 
77 
56 
80 
101 
68 
49 


705 


2 

7 
34 
37 
57 
38 
33 
27 
26 
34 
19 
13 


317 


10 
21 
17 

18 
25 
27 
20 
18 
22 
20 
18 
7 


223 


9 
10 

9 

16 
30 
25 
15 
20 
34 
30 
23 
12 


231 


The  aggregate  arrivals  of  steamboats  at  St.  Louis  during  the  year 
1850,  was  2,907;  1851,2,625;  and  1852,3,184.  The  shipping  owned 
in  the  district,  June  30,  1852,  according  to  the  custom-house  returns, 
amounted  to  an  aggregate  of  37,862  tons  enrolled  and  licensed,  of  which 
32,646  were  employed  in  steam  navigation.  In  1854,  the  shipping 
amounted  to  an  aggregate  of  48,575  tons,  of  which  41,980  were  em- 
ployed in  steam  navigation.  During  the  year,  9  steamboats,  with  an 
aggregate  burden  of  3,079  tons,  were  built. 

The  total  amount  of  coal  received  at  St.  Louis  in  1853,  is  estimated 
at  2,837,818  bushels;  sawn  lumber,  36,412,451  feet;  shingles,  30,462,- 
700;  laths,  6,947,000 ;  cedar  posts,  22,748 ;  logs  purchased  at  the  city  mills, 


« 


MISSOURI.  607 

29,636,808  feet;  and  wood  surveyed,  44,280;!  cords.  The  total  value  of 
foreign  importations  entered  at  the  custom-house  in  1858,  was  $917,275, 
of  which  $487,750  was  from  England,  and  $124,606  from  Pernambuco 
and  Bahia.     The  duties  collected  amounted  to  $289,260. 

The  importations  of  dry  goods  into  St.  Louis  for  the  year  1852,  were 
estimated  at  $7,000,000,  (an  increase  of  nearly  $1,000,000  over  the  pre- 
vious year,)  and  the  sales  at  $8,500,000.  This,  however,  only  has  refer 
ence  to  the  wholesale  business.  Including  the  retail  trade  of  the  city, 
the  entire  imports  were  estimated  at  $10,500,000,  and  the  sales  at  $13,- 
000,000.  The  business  of  the  heaviest  wholesale  houses  amounts  to  from 
$500,000  to  $S00,000  annually. 

The  Bank  of  the  State  of  Missouri  is  the  only  chartered  banking  insti- 
tution in  St,  Louis,  or  in  Missouri.  It  has  five  branches,  viz.,  one  at  Fay- 
ette, one  at  Jackson,  one  at  Lexington,  one  at  Palmyra,  and  one  at 
Springfield.  The  entire  capital  is  $1,200,000,  one-half  of  which  is 
divided  among  the  several  branches.  The  local  discounts  of  the  city 
bank  for  1853,  amounted  to  $5,592,271,  and  the  exchange  purchased 
to  $6,3-43,433;  making  the  total  business  of  the  bank  for  the  year 
$11,935,704.  The  amount  of  exchanges  sold  by  the  bank  of  Missouri 
and  private  bankers  of  the  ity  was  estimated  at  $38,000,000,  besides 
$4,000,000  remitted  by  merchants.  The  whole  number  of  bonds 
outstanding  against  St.  Louis  in  October,  1853,  amounted  to  $2,- 
735,296,  and  the  interest  on  the  same  for  the  year,  to  $165,103,75. 
The  entire  revenue  of  the  city,  from  April  11  to  October  4,  1853, 
amounted  to  $414,252,32,  and  the  expenditures  for  the  same  period,  to 
$412,914,22.  Of  the  latter  sum,  $44,938,92  was  for  improving  and 
cleaning  the  streets;  $24,475,64  for  wharf  improvements ;  19,611,54, 
the  cost  of  the  police  department;  $17,583,60  for  lighting  the  city; 
$11,879,99  for  the  city  hospital;  and  $7,302,30,  the  expenses  of  the 
fire  department. 

The  natural  advantages  which  St.  Louis  enjoys  as  a  commercial  em- 
porium are  probably  not  surpassed  by  those  of  any  inland  port  in  the 
world.  Situated  midway  between  two  oceans,  and  near  the  geographical 
center  of  the  finest  agricultural  region  on  the  globe,  almost  at  the  very 
focus  towards  which  converge  the  Mississippi,  the  Missouri,  the  Ohio, 
and  the  Illinois  rivers,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  she  is  destined,  at  no 
distant  period,  to  become  the  great  receiving  and  distributing  depot  of 
most  of  the  vast  region  drained  by  these  streams.  Having  already 
reached  an  enviable  position  among  her  sister  cities,  she  is  looking  west- 
ward, with  a  system  of  railways  intended  not  only  to  bring  to  her  mar- 
kets the  agricultural  and  mineral  treasures  of  the  Missouri  basin,  but 
eventually  to  extend  beyond  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  valley  of  the 
Great  Salt  lake,  and  finally  to  the  golden  shores  of  the  Pacific  ocean. 
Her  connection  with  the  Atlantic  cities,  through  Cincinnati  and  Chicago, 
is  already  secured  beyond  contingency.  The  construction  of  railroads 
penetrating  various  sections  of  her  own  State,  designed  ultimately  to 
communicate  with  New  Orleans,  are  also  about  to  be  undertaken.  Of 
these,  the  Iron  Mountain,  the  North  Missouri,  and  the  Hannibal  and  St. 
Joseph    railroads  are  already  chartered,  and    soon  to  be  commenced. 


608  MISSOURI. 


The  Pacific  railroad  is  now  nearly  completed  to  Jefferson  city,  and  the 
Ohio  and  Mississippi  road  is  in  an  advanced  stage  of  construction,  the 
cars  having  long  been  running  to  Salem,  forming  a  connection  with  the 
Illinois  Central  railroad  at  Sandoval,  and  with  the  Chicago  branch  of  it 
at  Centralia.  The  opening  of  these  various  railways,  and  others  pro- 
posed, will  give  St.  Louis  ready  access  to  immense  deposits  of  iron,  coal, 
lead,  and  copper  ores,  within  a  circuit  of  90  miles,  equal  to  the  wants  of 
the  whole  Mississippi  valley  for  centuries  to  come,  and  which  have  not 
to  this  time  been  brought  into  use,  simply  because  of  the  difficulty  and 
expense  of  reaching  a  market.  Therefore,  with  all  the  commercial  facil- 
ities which  this  metropolis  now  enjoys — facilities  which  have  hitherto 
been  productive  of  prosperity  almost  beyond  example — what  may  she 
not  become  when  the  vast  system  of  railways  here  contemplated  shall 
have  gone  into  operation ! 

History. — Among  the  many  sites  which  the  vast  domain  of  uninhabi- 
ted territory  in  the  Mississippi  valley  presented  for  founding  a  city,  that 
on  which  St.  Louis  now  stands  was  selected  by  Laclede,  February  15th, 
1764,  as  one  possessing  peculiar  advantages  for  the  fur  trade,  and  for 
defense  against  the  Indians.  The  confluence  of  the  different  rivers  in 
the  immediate  neighborhood  was  a  desideratum  in  the  estimation  of  the 
trapper;  it  has  become  of  vast  importance  to  the  place  in  establishing  it 
as  a  center  for  agricultural  and  manufacturing  enterprise.  The  statistics 
of  these  early  times  show  how  that  for  15  successive  years,  ending  in 
1804,  the  average  annual  value  of  the  furs  collected  at  this  port  amounted 
to  $203,750.  The  number  of  the  deer  skins  was  158,000;  of  beaver, 
36,900;  of  otter,  8,000;  of  bear,  5,100,  and  of  buffalo,  850.  The  pop- 
ulation at  this  period  was  between  1,500  and  2,000,  one-half  of  whom 
were  absent  a  great  part  of  each  year  as  trappers  and  voyagers.  It  will 
readily  be  perceived  that  the  elements  which  gave  the  settlement  exis- 
tence were  not  of  a  character  adequate  to  foster  it  beyond  the  limits  of 
a  frontier  village ;  and  accordingly,  as  late  as  1820,  we  find  the  accession 
of  population  had  not  swelled  the  original  very  materially.  Up  to  this 
date  the  census  only  shows  an  advance  to  4,598.  Military  expeditions 
and  establishments,  together  with  a  sparse  immigration,  confined  to  those 
peculiar  temperaments  which  delight  in  the  wild  and  adventurous,  still 
kept  up  a  progressive  improvement,  which,  centering  here  for  personal 
security  as  well  as  for  trade,  still  fixed  it  as  the  seat  of  a  commercial  and 
manufacturing  metropolis,  destined  in  a  few  years  to  become  an  object 
of  interest  throughout  the  world.  On  the  11th  of  August,  1768,  a 
Spanish  officer  by  the  name  of  Rious,  with  a  company  of  Spanish  troops, 
took  possession  of  St.  Louis  and  Upper  Louisiana,  as  it  was  termed,  in 
the  name  of  his  Catholic  majesty,  under  whose  government  it  remained 
until  its  final  transfer  to  the  United  States,  March  26,  1804.  In  1813, 
the  first  brick  house  was  erected;  in  1817,  the  first  steamboat  arrived — 
both  important  events,  but  neither  of  which  became  frequent  until 
several  years  after.  In  1822,  St.  Louis  was  chartered  as  a  city,  under 
the  title  given  by  Laclede,  in  honor  of  Louis  XV.  of  France.  From 
1825  to  1830,  the  influx  of  population  from  Illinois  began  to  be  of  im- 
portance.    From  this  State  the  commerce  of  St.  Louis  received  its  first 


MISSOURI.  609 


great  impulse,  and  from  this  State  it  'still  derives  a  large  portion  of  its 
support.  With  1829  the  keel-boat  entirely  disappeared.  The  steamer 
Yellowstone  about  this  time  ascended  to  the  Great  Falls,  and  was  suc- 
ceeded by  the  Assinaboinc  and  others.  Dry-goods  houses  were  already 
established,  and  these  sent  out  retail  branches  to  Springfield,  and  other 
places  in  Illinois.  Extensive  warehouses  began  to  be  erected,  some  of 
which  are  still  standing,  having  survived  the  great  fire.  They  rose 
from  their  solid  limestone  foundations,  built  on  a  scale  which  shows  that 
the  impressions  of  the  present  were  vividly  portrayed  to  the  minds  of 
the  people  of  that  day. 

The  population  of  St.  Louis  in  1830  was  G,694,  showing  an  increase 
of  only  2,096  in  ten  years.  In  1810  it  had  much  more  than  doubled, 
having  reached  16,469.  Between  these  periods,  therefore,  we  are  to  look 
for  the  commencement  of  that  vast  increase  which  has  so  distinguished 
the  growth  of  this  city.  Population  in  1850,  75,201  free,  and  2,650 
slaves;  total,  77,850.  Of  these,  23,771  were  born  in  Germany;  11,257 
in  Ireland;  2,933  in  England;  and  2,450  in  other  foreign  countries: 
making  an  aggregate  of  40,411  natives  of  foreign  countries,  and  37,- 
436  natives  of  the  United  States.  By  a  local  census  of  1852,  St.  Louis 
contained  a  population  of  94,819;  and  if  to  this  we  add  the  population 
of  the  suburbs,  it  would  swell  the  number  to  upwards  of  100,000  souls; 
being  an  increase  of  about  20,000  since  1850,  and  nearly  81,000  since 
1840. 

Hannibal,  a  flourishing  town  of  Marion  county,  on  the  Mississippi 
river,  is  153  miles  above  St.  Louis,  and  15  miles  below  Quincy,  Illinois. 
It  is  advantageously  situated  for  commerce,  and  is  rapidly  increasing  in 
population  and  business.  Large  quantities  of  hemp,  tobacco,  pork,  etc., 
which  are  raised  in  the  vicinity,  are  shipped  at  this  point.  The  adjacent 
county  is  very  productive,  and  rather  populous.  Coal  and  carboniferous 
limestone,  an  excellent  material  for  building,  are  abundant  here.  A 
railroad  has  be<m  commenced,  which  will  extend  from  Hannibal  to  St. 
Joseph,  on  the  Missouri,  a  distance  of  above  200  miles.  The  town  con- 
tains churches  of  8  or  9  denominations,  printing  offices,  from  which  are 
issued  several  newspapers,  about  25  stores  and  warehouses,  and  several 
extensive  tobacco  factories,  flouring  mills,  packing  and  other  establish- 
ments. Population  in  1810  was  about  600;  in  1850  it  amounted  to 
2,557;  in  1851,  to  4,000. 

Lexington,  a  thriving  post-village  and  township,  capital  of  Lafayette 
county,  on  the  right  bank  of  Missouri  river,  120  miles  by  the  road  west 
of  Jefferson  city.  The  situation  is  high  and  healthy.  Lexington  has 
an  active  trade  with  the  caravans  of  Santa  Fe  and  the  Great  Salt  lake. 
The  great  emigration  to  California  which  has  passed  through  the  county 
for  several  years  past,  has  furnished  a  market  for  grain,  cattle,  and  horses 
at  very  high  prices.  Extensive  beds  of  coal  are  found  on  the  river  bank 
here.  Lexington  contains,  besides  the  county  buildings,  a  United  States 
land-office,  2  newspaper  offices,  about  7  churches,  and  1  bank.  Popula- 
tion of  the  township  in  1850,4,878;  of  the  village,  2,459;  in  1853, 
estimated  at  4,000. 

Saint    Joseph,  capital  of  Buchanan  county,  is  situated  on  the  left 


i 


610  MISSOURI. 

(east)  bank  of  the  Missouri  river,  340  miles  above  Jefferson  city,  and 
496  miles  by  water  from  Saint  Louis.  It  is  the  most  commercial  and 
populous  town  of  Western  Missouri,  and  one  of  the  points  of  departure 
in  the  emigration  to  Oregon,  California,  etc.  Saint  Joseph  is  surrounded 
by  an  extremely  fertile  region,  in  which  wheat,  tobacco,  and  hemp  are 
cultivated.  A  company  has  been  formed  to  construct  a  railroad,  about 
200  miles  long,  from  this  town  to  Hannibal,  on  the  Mississippi.  The 
town  was  laid  out  in  1843,  and  became  the  county  seat  in  1845.  It  con- 
tains 7  churches,  several  steam  flouring  and  saw  mills,  and  manufactories 
of  bagging,  etc.;  2  or  3  newspapers  are  published  here.  Population  in 
1853,  about  5,000. 

Weston,  a  flourishing  city  and  river-port  of  Platte  county,  picturesquely 
situated  on  the  Missouri  river,  200  miles  by  the  road  west-north-west 
of  Jefferson  city,  and  5  miles  above  Fort  Leavenworth.  It  is  the  most 
commercial  town  on  the  Missouri  river,  or  in  the  State,  with  the  single 
exception  of  Saint  Louis.  Its  frontier  position  renders  it  a  favorable 
starting-point  for  the  emigrants  to  California,  etc.;  and  the  vast  extent  of 
this  emigration,  for  a  few  years  past,  has  opened  a  ready  market  for  cat- 
tle, provisions,  etc.,  at  excessively  high  prices.  A  constant  and  heavy 
trade  is  carried  on  with  Salt  Lake  city  and  valley.  It  also  furnishes 
the  private  and  governmental  supplies  to  Fort  Leavenworth.  A  railroad 
has  been  chartered,  extending  from  Weston  to  the  Hannibal  and  Saint 
Joseph  railroad;  and  another  from  Saint  Joseph,  via  Weston  and  Park- 
ville,  to  Kansas,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Missouri  river.  A  company 
has  also  been  formed  to  construct  a  railroad  connecting  Weston  with 
Saint  Louis.  Several  newspapers  are  published  here.  First  settled  in 
1838,     Population  in  1855,  about  3,000. 

Independence,  a  thriving  town,  capital  of  Jackson  county,  is  situated  5 
miles  south  of  Missouri  river,  and  165  miles  west  by  north  of  Jefferson 
city.  It  is  important  as  one  of  the  starting  points  in  the  trade  with 
New  Mexico  and  Utah,  and  a  place  where  many  of  the  emigrants  to 
Oregon  and  California  procure  their  outfit.  It  is  the  center  of  trade  for 
a  considerable  extent  of  the  surrounding  country,  which  is  extremely 
fertile.  The  prodigious  tide  of  emigration  which  has  passed  through 
this  place  for  the  last  4  or  5  years,  has  created  a  demand  for  horses,  pro- 
visions, and  merchandise,  at  prices  which  have  enriched  the  farmers  and 
traders  of  this  vicinity.  It  contains  several  churches,  3  hotels,  and  2 
newspaper  offices.  A  railroad  extends  from  the  town  to  the  river. 
Population  in  1854,  estimated  at  3,000. 

i  Jefferson  City,  capital  of  the  State  and  seat  of  justice  of  Cole  county, 
lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Missouri  river,  and  on  the  Pacific  railroad, 
128  miles  by  land,  and  155  miles  by  water  west  of  Saint  Louis,  and  980 
miles  from  Washington.  Latitude  38°  36'  north,  longitude  92°  8' west. 
The  situation  is  elevated  and  picturesque,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the 
river  and  of  the  cedar-crowned  cliffs  on  the  opposite  shore.  It  contains 
the  State  house,  the  governor's  residence,  a  handsome  building,  and  the 
State  penitentiary.  Two  or  three  newspapers  are  published  here.  Pop- 
ulation in  1853,  estimated  at  3,000. 

Saint  Charles  is  a  thriving  post-town,  capital  of  St.  Charles  county,  on 


ARKANSAS.  611 

the  left  bank  of  Missouri  river,  22  miles  from  its  mouth,  1-14  mile3  be- 
low Jefferson  City,  and  6  miles  by  land  south  of  the  Mississippi  river. 
The  situation  is  elevated  and  beautiful.  The  rocky  bluffs  in  this  vicin- 
present  delightful  views  of  the  adjacent  rivers.  Quarries  of  limestone 
and  sandstone,  and  mines  of  stone-coal  have  been  opened  near  the  town. 
It  contains  several  churches,  and  1  newspaper  office.  Population  in 
1853,  estimated  at  3,000. 


STATE    OF   ARKANSAS. 


This  State,  having  for  the  most  part  the  soil  and  products  of  the 
south,  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Missouri,  east  by  the  Mississippi 
river,  (which  separates  it  from  the  States  of  Tennessee  and  Mississippi,) 
south  by  Louisiana  and  Texas,  and  west  by  Texas  and  Indian  Territory. 
It  lies  between  33°  and  36°  30*  north  latitude,  and  between  89°  45'  and 
94°  40'  west  longitude ;  being  about  240  miles  in  length  from  north  to 
south,  and  224  in  breadth  from  east  to  west;  and  including  an  area  of 
near  52,198  square  miles,  or  33,406,720  acres,  only  781,531  of  which 
were  improved  in  1850. 

Face  or  the  Country. — The  eastern  part  of  Arkansas,  for  about  100 
miles  back  from  the  Mississippi,  is  generally  a  vast  plain  covered  with 
marshes,  swamps,  and  lagoons,  but  occasionally  interspersed  with  eleva- 
tions, (some  of  which  are  30  miles  or  more  in  circuit,)  which,  when  the 
rivers  are  overflowed,  form  temporary  islands.  A  plank -road  is  about  to 
be  made  through  a  part  of  this  region.  A  bill  having  recently  been 
passed  by  Congress,  giving  to  the  southern  and  western  States  all  the 
overflowed  swamp-lands  within  their  respective  limits,  the  State  of  Ar- 
kansas is  now  constructing,  along  the  whole  eastern  boundary,  levees  of 
great  strength,  by  means  of  which  extensive  tracts,  that  have  hitherto 
been  entirely  worthless,  will  be  converted  into  cultivatable  land  of  extraor- 
dinary fertility.  The  Ozark  mountains,  which  enter  the  north-west  part 
of  the  State,  are  of  uncertain  bight;  they  do  not,  however,  exceed  2,000 
feet,  and  are  generally  much  below  that  elevation.  These  mountains 
divide  the  State  into  two  unequal  parts,  of  which  the  northern  has  the 
climate  and  production  of  the  northern  States,  while  the  southern  portion, 
in  the  character  of  its  climate  and  productions,  resembles  Mississippi  or 
Louisiana.  The  Black  hills  in  the  north,  and  the  Washita  hills  in  the 
west,  near  the  Washita  river,  are  the  only  other  considerable  elevations. 
The  central  parts  of  the  State,  as  well  as  the  regions  north  of  the  Ozark 
mountains,  are  broken  and  undulating. 


612  ARKANSAS. 

Minerals. — Arkansas  gives  indications  of  considerable  affluence  in 
mineral  resources,  which  are  principally  coal,  iron,  lead,  zinc,  manga- 
nese, gypsum,  and  salt.  The  coal  field  of  Arkansas  commences  40  miles 
above  Little  Rock,  and  extends  on  both,  sides  of  the  river  beyond  the 
western  boundary  of  the  State.  Cannel,  anthracite,  and  bituminous  coal 
are  all  found  in  the  State.  Gold  is  said  to  have  been  discovered  in  White 
county.  Xear  the  Hot  Springs  is  a  celebrated  quarry  of  oil  stone,  supe- 
rior to  anything  else  of  the  kind  in  the  known  world  :  the  quantity  is 
inexhaustible ;  there  are  great  varieties,  exhibiting  all  degrees  of  fineness. 
According  to  a  writer  in  De  Bow's  "Resources  of  the  south  and  west/' 
there  is  manganese  enough  in  Arkansas  to  supply  the  world ;  in  zinc  it 
excels  every  State  except  Xew  Jersey;  and  has  more  gypsum  than  all 
the  other  States  put  together,  while  it  is  equally  well  supplied  with 
marble  and  salt.  The  lead  ore  of  this  State  is  said  to  be  particularly  rich 
in  silver. 

Rivers,  Lakes,  etc. — Arkansas  has  no  sea-board,  but  the  Missis- 
sippi river  (which  receives  all  the  waters  of  this  State.)  coasts  the  almost 
entire  eastern  boundary,  and  renders  it  accessible  to  the  sea  from  many 
points.  Probably  no  State  in  the  Union  is  penetrated  by  so  many  navi- 
gable rivers  as  Arkansas:  owing,  however,  to  the  long-continued  droughts 
which  prevail  in  the  hot  season,  none  of  these  streams  can  be  ascended 
by  vessels  of  any  size  more  than  about  nine  months  in  the  year.  The 
Arkansas  is  the  principal  river  that  passes  wholly  through  the  State.  It 
enters  the  western  border  from  the  Indian  Territory,  and  sweeping  almost 
directly  through  the  middle  of  the  State  for  about  500  miles,  (the  whole 
distance  navigable  for  steamboats,)  after  receiving  a  number  of  small 
tributaries,  discharges  its  waters  into  the  Mississippi.  The  White  river 
and  the  St.  Francis,  with  their  affluents,  drain  the  north-east  part  of 
Arkansas.  They  have  their  sources  in  Missouri,  and  their  outlet  in  the 
M:s~is.-ippi  river.  The  White  river,  which  debouches  by  one  channel 
into  the  Arkansas,  and  into  the  Mississippi  by  the  other,  is  navigable  for 
steamboats  500  miles,  the  Big  Black  river  for  60,  and  the  St.  Francis 
for  300  miles.  The  Red  river  runs  through  the  south-west  angle  of  the 
State,  and  receives  some  small  tributaries  within  its  limits.  It  is  navi- 
gable for  steamboats  beyond  Arkansas.  The  Washita  and  its  numerous 
affluents  drain  the  southern  part  of  the  State.  The  main  stream  is  navi- 
gable for  375  miles,  and  its  tributary,  the  Saline,  for  100  miles.  The 
bayous  Bartholomew,  Bceuf,  Macon,  and  Tensas,  are  all  tributaries  of  the 
Washita,  and  have  an  aggregate  of  G35  miles  of  navigable  water.  They 
all  arise  in  the  south  part  of  Arkansas,  and  flow  into  Louisiana,  where 
they  join  the  Red  river.  The  Little  Missouri  and  bayou  D'Arbonne  are 
western  branches  of  the  Arkansas,  the  former  navigable  60,  and  the 
latter  50  miles,  for  light  steamboats.  There  are  no  considerable  lakes  in 
Arkansas. 

Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists. — Under  this  head  stands  promi- 
nent the  Hot  Springs,  situated  in  a  county  of  the  same  name,  about  60 
miles  south-west  of  Little  Rock.  From  a  point  or  ridge  of  land  forming 
a  steep  bank  from  150  to  200  feet  high,  projecting  over  Hot  Spring 
creek,  an  affluent  of  the  Washita,  more  than  100  springs  issue,  at  differ- 


ARKANSAS.  613 

ent  elevations  and  of  different  temperatures,  from  135°  to  160°  of  Fah- 
renheit. A  considerable  portion  of  this  bank  consists  of  calcareous 
deposits,  formed  from  the  water  as  it  is  exposed  to  the  air.  T:. 
springs  are  visited  annually  by  thousands  of  people.  The  waters  are 
esteemed  particularly  beneficial  to  persons  suffer:  •  :  m  the  chronic 
effects  of  mercury:  also  in  rheumatism,  stiffness  of  the  j  :  -  :e.,  etc. 
Near  the  top  of  the  bank  above  alluded  to.  there  is  a  fine  cold  spring.  - 
near  to  the  warm  springs  that  a  person  can  put  one  hand  into  cold,  and 
the  other  into  hot  water  at  the  same  time.  The  creek  below  the  springs 
is  rendered  warm  enough  to  bathe  in.  even  in  the  coldes:  The 

mountains  on  the  western  border  of  the  State  abound  with  picturesque 
and  romantic  scenery.  There  is  in  Pike  county,  on  the  Little  Missouri 
river,  a  mountain  of  alabaster,  said  to  be  of  the  finest  quality,  and  white 
as  the  driven  snow.  In  the  same  county  also  there  is  a  natural  bridge, 
which  is  regarded  as  a  great  curiosity. 

Climate. — The  climate  of  the  northern  and  western  parts  of  Arkan- 
sas is  allied  to  that  of  the  north-western  States,  while  the  rn  and 
eastern  portion  partakes  of  that  :  Louisiana.  The  lowlands  are  un- 
healthy, but  the  uplands  will  compare  favorably  with  the  most  healthful 
regions  of  the  western  States.  According  to  a  meteorological  table  kept 
in  Pulaski  county,  near  Little  Kock,  the  mean  temp:-:  ear, 
from  the  16th  of  December,  1550.  until  the  15th  of  December,  1551, 
inclusive,  was  62°.66.  Mean  temperature  of  the  months  of  December, 
January,  and  February,  for  the  years  1549  and  1550.  45:.52.  Mean 
temperature  for  the  corresponding  months  for  the  years  1550  and  1551, 
44;.52.  Mean  temperature  for  the  months  of  June,  July,  and  Au;  : 
for  the  year  1550.  79°.66.  Mean  temperature  for  the  corresponding 
months  for  the  year  1551.  B0°.26.  There  vr-re  47  days  durin_~  the  -urn- 
mer  of  1550,  when  the  mercury  rose  to  90°  and  upward ;  51  days  during 
the  summer  of  1551  when  the  mercury  rose  to  90°  and  upwards.  The 
greatest  elevation  of  the  mercury  in  1550.  was  the  21th  of  August,  when 
it  rose  to  99°.  The  greatest  elevation  for  1551  was  the  16th  of  August, 
when  it  rose  to  99i°.  The  lowest  depression  of  the  mercury  during  the 
year  1550  was  Sr.  on  the  Sth  of  December.  The  lowest  depression  dur- 
ing the  year  1551  was  12:.  on  the  19th  of  January.  From  the  1st  of 
March.  1^50,  until  the  30th  of  November,  1551,  inclusive,  there  fell  in 
rain  and  snow  79.66  inches  of  water,  making  an  average  of  about  3.79 
inches  per  month,  and  -45.52  inches  in  12  months.  The  g:  itest  amount 
during  one  month  was  in  April.  1550.  when  there  fell  7.93  inches  of 
water;  the  least  that  fell  in  anyone  month  was  in  September,  1551, 
when  there  fell  .02  of  an  inch. 

Soil  and  Productions. — There  is  a  great  variety  in  the  soil  of  Ar- 
kansas ;  along  the  river  intervals  it  is  of  the  richest  black  mould,  (yield- 
ing from  50  to  SO  bushels  of  Indian  corn  to  the  acre.)  but  much  of  it 
unfit  for  cultivation  for  want  of  a  system  of  drainage.  On  the  White 
and  St.  Francis  rivers  there  is  some  land  of  especial  excellence;  while 
in  the  country  back  from  the  rivers  there  are  some  sterile  ridges  Grand 
prairie,  between  White  and  Arkansas  rivers,  about  90  miles  long  and  30 
broad,  is  badly  supplied  with  water,  but  most  of  the  other  prairie  lands 


614  ARKANSAS. 

arc  well  watered.  The  region  north  of  the  Ozark  mountains,  including 
about  two  tiers  of  counties,  is  well  adapted  to  grazing ;  it  produces  also 
abundance  of  excellent  wheat,  and,  perhaps,  the  finest  apples  in  the 
world.  This  section  of  the  country  is  elevated,  hilly,  or  rolling,  inter- 
spersed with  prairies,  and  abounds  with  fine  springs  of  excellent  water. 
Grain  and  stock  are  the  staples.  The  tops  of  the  hills  and  mountains 
are  often  flat  or  rolling,  and  covered  with  a  good  soil  and  a  heavy  growth 
of  timber.  The  staple  products  of  Arkansas  are  Indian  corn,  cotton,  and 
live  stock,  and  considerable  quantities  of  wheat,  oats,  tobacco,  wool,  peas, 
beans,  sweet  potatoes,  Irish  potatoes,  fruits,  garden  vegetables,  butter, 
hay,  rice,  beeswax,  and  honey,  with  some  rye,  barley,  buckwheat,  wine, 
cheese,  crrass-seeds,  hops,  hemp,  flax,  silk,  and  maple  sugar.  There  were 
in  Arkansas,  in  1850,  17,758  farms,  occupying  781,531  acres  of  improved 
land,  and  producing  live  stock  worth  86;647,969 ;  199;639  bushels  of 
wheat;  8,898,939  of  Indian  corn;  656,183  of  oats;  285,738  of  peas  and 
beans;  193,832  of  Irish  potatoes;  788.149  of  sweet  potatoes;  63,179 
pounds  of  rice;  218,936  of  tobacco;  25,137,600  of  cotton;  1S2,595  of 
wool;  1,854,239  of  butter;  3,977  tons  of  hay;  192,338  pounds  of  bees- 
wax and  honey ;  orchard  products  valued  at  840,041  ;  and  market  vege- 
tables at  §17,150. 

Forest  Trees. — In  Arkansas  the  bottom  lands  are  generally  covered 
with  a  heavy  growth  of  Cottonwood,  ash,  cypress  and  gum.  The  moun- 
tains or  hilly  portions  have  hickory  and  the  different  kinds  of  oak.  Pine 
is  found  in  considerable  abundance  on  the  Arkansas  river,  near  the  centor 
of  the  State,  and  from  this  southward  to  Eed  river.  Beech  is  found  in 
sreat  abundance  on  the  St.  Francis  river.  Immense  quantities  of  these 
different  kinds  of  timber  are  sent  down  the  Mississippi  river  to  New 
Orleans.  From  the  letter  of  a  highly  intelligent  correspondent  we  extract 
the  following  passage  :  "The  principal  forest  trees  are  the  oak,  (white,) 
found  in  remarkable  abundance  and  of  good  quality  :  the  other  oaks  are 
also  abundant  and  very  fine.  White  oaks,  5  feet  in  diameter  and  60  or 
80  feet  without  a  limb,  are  common.  Hickory,  ash,  black  walnut,  gum, 
cherry,  pine,  red  cedar,  dogwood,  cypress,  maple,  beech,  cottonwood, 
poplar,  sugar-maple  in  the  northern  parts ;  bois  d'arc,  (pronounced 
bo-dark,)  sassafras,  and  black  locust;  all  these  are  found  in  abundance, 
and  are  very  valuable.  The  pecan  is  included  in  hickory,  and  is  also  very 
abundant." 

Animals. — Arkansas  is  still  the  home  of  many  wild  animals,  and  the 
bear,  buffalo,  (a  few  of  which  are  still  found  in  the  Mississippi  swamp  in 
Crittenden  county,)  deer,  wolf,  catamount,  wildcat,  beaver,  otter,  raccoon, 
and  gopher  yet  infest  its  forests,  prairie?,  and  savannas.  The  gopher  is 
a  little  animal  found  chiefly,  it  is  said,  west  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is 
rather  larger  than  a  rat,  and  has  pouches  on  each  side  of  its  head  and 
neck,  in  which  it  carries  out  the  dirt  it  makes  while  excavating  its  bur- 
row. It  is  very  destructive  to  trees  by  gnawing  their  roots.  Of  birds 
there  are  found  wild  geese,  turkeys,  and  quails.  The  streams  abound  in 
fish,  particularly  trout. 

Manufactures. — This  State  is  not  extensively  engaged  in  manufac- 
tures.    According  to  the  census  of  1850,  there  were  only  271  manufac- 


ARKANSAS.  615 

tories,  producing  each  §500  and  upwards,  annually.  Of  these,  3  were 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  cotton,  employing  $16,500  capital,  and  13 
male  and  18  female  hands,  consuming  raw  material  worth  8^.975,  and 
producing  81,250  pounds  of  yarn,  valued  at  $16,637  ;  but  no  wooden  or 
iron  manufactories  or  distilleries  reported.  There  were  also  fabricated 
in  1850  home  made  manufactures  valued  at  -  -    and  51  tanner! 

employing  42.100  capital,  consuming  raw  material  worth  §35,230,  and 
producing  leather  valued  at  87^.734. 

Internal  Improvements. — Arkansas  is  so  well  supplied  with  river 
navigation,  that  she  will  scarcely  feel  the  want  of  other  means  of  com- 
munication till  her  back  country  is  more  settled.  However,  she  too  has 
been  seized  with  the  spirit  of  the  age,  and  though  no  railroads  have  actu- 
ally been  commenced,  several  have  been  projected,  viz.,  one  from  Little 
Rock  to  Memphis,  one  to  Fulton,  and  one  to  Fort  Smith.  A  railroad  is 
also  proposed  from  St.  Louis,  through  Arkansas,  to  Xew  Orleans. 

Commerce. — This  State  has  no  foreign  commerce,  though  it  has  con- 
siderable boating  trade  with  New  Orleans,  engaged  in  the  export  of 
productions.  The  rivers  of  Arkansas  afford  an  interior  navigation  of 
more  than  1,000  miles,  bringing  a  large  portion  of  the  State  within  the 
reach  of  navigable  waters.  It  is  stated  that  the  White  river  is  more 
easily  navigated  than  the  Ohio ;  in  addition  to  this,  the  Arkansas  is 
navigable  the  entire  breadth  of  the  State,  the  St.  Francis  for  300,  and 
the  Big  Black  river  for  100  miles.  The  southern  and  south-western 
portions  of  the  State  may  be  approached  by  steamboats  through  the  Red 
river,  the  Washita,  and  their  branches.  Lumber,  cotton,  slaughtered 
animals,  and  Indian  corn  are  the  great  articles  of  export. 

Education. — According  to  the  census  of  1850,  there  were  in  Arkan- 
sas 3  colleges,  with  150  students,  and  an  income  of  S3.100 ;  353  public 
schools,  with  8,493  pupils,  and  843.703  income,  of  which  §8,959  were 
from  the  public  funds,  and  81,720  from  endowments;  90  acadamies  and 
other  schools,  with  2.407  pupils,  and  27,937  income.  There  were  23.361 
pupils  attending  school  during  the  year,  as  returned  by  families.  Of 
16.935  adults  who  could  not  read  and  write,  116  were  free  colored  per- 
sons and  27  foreigners. 

Periodicals.— By  the  census  of  1850,  9  weekly  newspapers,  with  an 
aggregate  circulation  of  377,000  copies  per  annum,  were  published  in 
Arkansas. 

Religious  Denominations. — Of  the  362  churches  in  Arkansas,  the 
different  sects  of  Baptists  owned  114;  the  Episcopalians,  2 ;  the  Free 
Church,  1;  the  Methodists,  16S  ;  the  Presbyterians,  52;  the  Roman 
Catholics,  7 ;  the  Union  church,  5 ;  and  minor  sects,  13. 

Public  Institutions. — As  yet  Arkansas  has  no  institutions  for  the 
insane,  or  for  the  deaf  and  dumb,  or  blind.  There  is  at  Little  Rock  one 
State  penitentiary,  which  has  been  once  or  twice  burned  down  by  the 
convicts.  According  to  the  census  of  1850,  Arkansas  had  one  public 
library,  with  250  volumes,  and  two  Sunday-school  libraries,  with  170 
volumes. 

Government,  Finances,  etc. — The  governor  is  elected  by  the  people 
for  4  years,  and  receives  a  salary  of  §1,800  per  annum,  and  the  use  of  a 


616  ARKANSAS. 

house.  The  senate  consists  of  25  members,  elected  for  5  years;  and  the 
house  of  representatives  of  75  members,  elected  for  2  years,  both  by  the 
people.  The  members  of  both  these  bodies  receive  $3  per  diem  during 
the  session,  and  $3  for  every  20  miles  travel.  The  judiciary  consists, 
1st,  of  a  Supreme  court,  composed  of  a  chief  justice  and  two  associates, 
elected  by  the  Legislature  for  8  years,  and  receiving  a  salary  of  $1,800 
per  annum ;  and  2d,  of  six  circuit  courts,  held  twice  a  year  in  each 
circuit.  The  circuit  judges  are  elected  by  the  people  for  4  years,  and 
the  prosecuting  attorney  for  2  years.  The  circuit  judges  receive  $1,250 
per  annum.  Arkansas  sends  two  members  to  the  national  house  of 
representatives,  and  is  entitled  to  four  electoral  votes  for  president  of 
the  United  States.  The  State  debt  in  1852  was  $1,506,562;  school 
fund,  none  ;  annual  expenditure,  inclusive  of  debt  and  schools,  $35,000. 
The  assessed  value  of  real  and  personal  property  in  1850  was  $36,428,- 
675. 

Population. — Arkansas  had,  in  1820,  14,273  inhabitants  ;  30,388  in 
1830  ;  97,574  in  1840  ;  209,877  in  1850  ;  of  whom  85,874  were  white 
males,  76,315  white  females ;  314  free  colored  males,  294  free  colored 
females,  and  23,658  male,  and  23,442  female  slaves  ;  in  1854,  253,117, 
of  whom  199,224  were  white,  and  60,279  slaves,  and  614  free  colored. 
There  were  also  in  1850,  28,416  families,  occupying  28,252  dwellings. 
Representative  population,  190,846  ;  population  to  the  square  mile,  4.02. 
There  occurred  in  the  year  ending  June  1st,  1850,  3,021  deaths,  or  nearly 
15  in  every  1,000  persons.  Of  the  free  population  at  the  last  census, 
61,289  were  born  in  the  State;  99,247  in  other  States  of  the  Union; 
1,471  in  foreign  countries  ;  and  790  whose  places  of  birth  were  unknown. 
The  number  of  paupers  who  received  aid  in  the  year  ending  June  1st, 
1850,  was  105,  of  whom  8  were  foreigners  ;  of  84  deaf  and  dumb,  4  were 
slaves  ;  of  92  blind,  2  were  free  colored  and  13  slaves  ;  of  63  insane,  3 
were  slaves  ;  of  115  idiotic,  2  were  free  colored,  and  10  slaves.  Of  the 
population,  41  were  engaged  in  mining;  26,355  in  agriculture  ;  215  in 
commerce;  1,173  in  manufactures;  3  in  navigating  the  ocean;  39  in 
internal  navigation,  and  301  in  the  learned  professions. 

Counties. — There  are  in  Arkansas  54  counties,  viz.  :  Arkansas, 
Ashley,  Benton,  Bradley,  Carroll,  Chicot,  Clark,  Conway,  Crawford, 
Crittenden,  Dallas,  Desha,  Drew,  Franklin,  Fulton,  Greene,  Hempstead, 
Hot  Spring,  Independence,  Izard,  Jackson,  Jefferson,  Johnson,  Lafay- 
ette, Lawrence,  Madison,  Marion,  Mississippi,  Monroe,  Montgomery, 
Newton,  Perry,  Phillips,  Pike,  Poinsett,  Polk,  Pope,  Prairie,  Pulaski, 
Randolph,  St.  Francis,  Saline,  Scott,  Searcy,  Sevier,  Union,  Yan  Buren, 
Washington,  Washita,  White,  and  Yell.  The  three  following  have 
been  formed  since  1850  :  Calhoun,  Columbia,  and  Sebastian. 

Towns. — There  are  but  few  large  towns  in  Arkansas.  The  principal 
are  Little  Rock,  the  capital  of  the  State,  with  a  population,  in  1853,  of 
3,000  ;  Yan  Buren,  the  most  commercial  town  in  the  State,  with  a  pop- 
ulation of  1,500  ;  Fort  Smith,  population,  1,500  ;  Camden,  population, 
1,400;  Batesville,  population,  about  1,700. 

History. — Arkansas  was  settled  by  the  French  at  Arkansas  Post  as 
early  as  1685,  and  formed  a  part  of  the   great  tract  purchased  from 


ARKANSAS.  617 

France  in  1803,  under  the  name  of  Louisiana.  It  made  little  progress 
until  after  its  formation  into  a  Territory  of  the  United  States  in  1819.  It 
became  a  member  of  the  American  Union  in  1836. 

Little  Rock,  capital  of  Arkansas,  and  seat  of  justice  of  Pulaski 
county,  on  the  right  or  southern  bank  of  Arkansas  river,  about  300 
miles  from  its  mouth,  155  miles  west  by  south  of  Memphis,  1,0G5  miles 
west  by  south  of  Washington.  Latitude,  31°  40'  north,  longitude,  83° 
10'  west.  It  is  situated  on  a  rocky  promontary,  or  bluff,  about  50  feet 
high,  the  first  that  occurs  in  ascending  the  river,  commanding  a  delight- 
ful and  extensive  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  State  house 
is  a  fine  brick  edifice,  rough  cast.  The  town  contains  a  United  States 
arsenal,  the  State  penitentiary,  which  has  been  once  or  twice  burned 
down  by  the  convicts,  and  6  churches,  all  handsomely  built  of  brick, 
namely,  1  Presbyterian,  1  Episcopalian,  1  Methodist,  1  Christian,  and  2 
Roman  Catholic.  There  are  2  newspapers  published  here.  It  has  also 
a  Masonic  hall,  an  Odd  Fellows'  hall,  and  several  seminaries.  The 
United  States  court  for  the  Eastern  District  is  held  here.  Many  of  the 
residents  are  planters  who  own  estates  in  this  part  of  the  State.  Little 
Rock  communicates  regularly  by  steamboats  with  different  points  on  the 
Arkansas  and  Mississippi  rivers.  Good  clay  for  brick  is  found  in  the 
vicinity ;  also  quarries  of  fine  slate,  and  granite  very  like  the  Quincy. 
granite,  but  not  so  hard.  A  company  has  been  formed  by  a  number  of 
gentlemen  from  Cincinnati  to  work  the  slate  quarry,  which  is  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity.  The  origin  of  the  name  Little  Rock  is  explained  as 
follows: — In  ascending  the  river  there  appears  on  the  south  bank,  rising 
out  of  the  water,  a  bald,  igneous  slate  rock,  which  at  low  water  is  about 
25  feet  above  the  surface,  but  at  high  water  is  almost  hidden  from  view. 
This  gives  name  to  the  city,  and  is  called  by  the  townpeople  "  the  point 
of  rocks."  Two  miles  above  this,  on  the  north  bank,  is  another  rocky 
bluff,  about  200  feet  high,  which  is  called  the  "big  rock."  Population 
in  1850,  2,167;  in  1853,  about  3,000. 

Van  Buren,  a  flourishing  post-village  and  township,  capital  of  Craw- 
ford county,  lies  160  miles  west-north-west  of  Little  Rock,  and  5  miles 
east  of  the  Indian  Territory.  The  village  is  finely  situated  on  the  left 
(north)  bank  of  Arkansas  river.  It  is  one  of  the  most  commercial  places 
in  the  whole  State — the  annual  sales  amounting  to  more  than  a  million 
dollars.  An  extensive  jobbing  business  is  done  here  in  supplying  the 
smaller  places  of  the  surrounding  country.  It  has  a  cotton  factory  in 
successful  operation,  with  an  engine  of  65  horse-power,  and  a  steam  flour- 
inc-rnill  making  50  barrels  per  day  of  the  finest  flour.  The  village  con- 
tains 4  churches,  including  1  Methodist  and  1  Presbyterian,  both  fine 
brick  edifices.  Two  newspapers  are  published  here.  Stone-coal  is  found 
in  the  vicinity.     Laid  out  about  1841.     Population  in  1853,  about  1,600. 

Camden,  a  handsome  post-village,  capital  of  Washita  county,  lies  on 
the  right  (west)  bank  of  the  Washita  river,  110  miles  south  by  west  of 
Little  Rock.  It  is  situated  on  a  declivity  of  a  high  range  of  hills,  and 
is  built  in  a  very  tasteful  style.  A  few  years  ago  the  site  was  occupied 
by  a  dense  forest,  and  many  of  the  trees  are  still  standing  in  the  streets. 
Camden  is  one  of  the  most  flourishing  towns  in  the  State,  and  possesses 


618  TENNESSEE. 

great  advantages  for  trade,  being  at  the  head  of  navigation  for  large 
steamers,  several  of  which  are  constantly  employed  in  conveying  produce 
down  the  river  to  New  Orleans.  A  plank-road  has  been  commenced, 
which  will  connect  Camden  with  Fulton,  on  Eed  river,  and  will  probably 
draw  an  increase  of  business.  The  growth  of  this  place  has  been  very 
rapid,  and  is  likely  to  continue  so.  It  was  settled  about  1842.  In  1848 
the  population  was  nearly  600 ;  in  1853,  about  1,400.  The  site  was  for- 
merly a  rendezvous  for  hunters,  and  known  as  "Ecore  a  Fabre." 

Batesville,  a  thriving  town,  capital  of  Independence  county,  is  on 
White  river,  about  400  miles  from  its  mouth,  90  miles  north-north-east 
of  Little  Eock,  and  115  miles  from  Memphis,  Tennessee.  Smallsteamers 
can  ascend  the  river  to  this  point  at  nearly  all  seasons.  A  great  influx  of 
emigration  is  directed  to  this  section  of  the  State,  which  offers  strong  in- 
ducements in  soil  and  climate.  Pine  timber  and  water-power  are  abundant 
in  the  county.  Batesville  is  the  most  important  town  in  the  north-east 
part  of  the  State,  and  has  an  active  trade.  It  contains,  besides  the  county 
buildings,  several  churches  and  2  newspaper  offices.  Population  in  1854, 
about  1  700. 


STATE   OF    TENNESSEE. 


The  Tennessee  river,  the  largest  affluent  of  the  Ohio,  is  formed  by  two 
branches,  the  Clinch  and  the  Holston,  which  rise  among  the  Alleghany 
mountains  of  Virginia,  and  unite  at  Kingston,  in  Tennessee.     It  flows 
first  south-west  to  Chattanooga,  near  the  south  boundary  of  the  State, 
where  it  turns  toward  the  north-west  and  west;  but  its  progress  being 
opposed  by  the  Cumberland  mountains,  it  changes  its  course  to  the  south- 
west, makes  an  extensive  circuit  of  near  300  miles  through  North  Ala- 
bama, and  touches  the  State  of  Mississippi  at  its  north-east  extremity. 
Here  it  again  enters  the  State  of  Tennessee,  traverses  its  whole  breadth 
from  south  to  north,  and  gradually  curving  towards  the  west,  crosses 
Kentucky,  and  enters  the  Ohio  river  at  Paducah,  48  miles  from  its 
mouth,  near  37°  north  latitude,  and  88°  35'  west  longitude.     The  length 
of  the  Tennessee  proper  is  estimated  at  800  miles,  and  if  we  include  the 
Holston,  its  longest  branch,  it  will  measure  about  1,100  miles.      The 
chief  towns  on  its  banks  are  Knoxville  and  Chattanooga,  in  Tennessee; 
Tuscumbia  and  Florence  in  Alabama,  and  Paducah  in  Kentucky.     The 
whole  descent  of  the  river  and  branches  is  computed  to  be  about  2,000 
feet.    The  channel- is  obstructed  by  no  considerable  falls  or  rapids,  ex- 


TENNESSEE.  619 

cepting  the  Muscle  Shoals,  in  Alabama,  where  the  river  runs  over  flint 
and  limestone  rocks  for  more  than  20  miles,  affording  immense  motive 
power.  Steamboats  ascend  the  river  from  its  mouth  to  Florence,  at 
the  foot  of  the  Muscle  Shoals,  about  280  miles.  Abov.e  these  rapids 
it  is  also  navigable  by  steamboats  at  all  seasons,  as  far  as  Knoxville, 
on  the  Holston,  a  distance  of  near  500  miles.  The  navigable  por- 
tions of  the  river  are  connected  by  a  railroad.  The  region  through 
which  this  river  flows  is  generally  fertile,  and  in  the  upper  part  of 
its  course  is  beautifully  diversified  with  mountains  and  valleys.  The 
Little  Tennessee,  which  by  some  writers  is  described  as  the  main  stream, 
rises  at  the  base  of  the  Blue  ridge,  near  the  frontier  of  North  Carolina 
and  Georgia,  and  flowing  north-west  into  Tennessee,  unites  with  the 
Holston  about  25  miles  south-west  of  Knoxville,  after  a  tortuous  course 
of  more  than  150  miles.  The  areas  drained  by  this  system  of  rivers  is 
estimated  by  Darby  at  41,000  square  miles.  In  the  winter  of  1831-32 
this  river  was  frozen  over,  even  in  the  State  of  Alabama — an  event  of  very 
rare  occurrence. 

The  State  of  Tennessee  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Kentucky  and  Vir- 
ginia, east  by  North  Carolina,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Alle- 
ghany mountains,  south  by  Georgia,  Alabama,  and  Mississippi,  and  west 
by  Arkansas  and  Missouri,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Mississippi 
river.  It  lies  between  35°  and  36°  36'  north  latitude,  and  between  81° 
40'  and  90°  15'  west  longitude — being  about  430  miles  in  As  greatest 
length  from  east  to  west,  and  110  miles  in  breadth,  including  an  area  of 
about  45,600  square  miles,  or  29,184,000  acres,  of  which  only  5,175,173 
were  improved  in  1850.  The  State  is  commonly  divided  into  three  sec- 
tions :  the  part  east  of  the  Cumberland  mountains  is  called  East  Tennes- 
see ;  between  the  Cumberland  mountains  and  the  Tennessee  river,  it 
takes  the  name  of  Middle  Tennessee ;  and  west  of  the  river  just  named, 
that  of  West  Tennessee. 

Face  of  the  Country. — Tennessee  is  very  agreeably  diversified  with 
mountain,  hill,  and  plain,  containing  within  its  limits  fertility  of  soil, 
beauty  of  scenery,  and  a  delightfully  temperate  climate.  In  the  east  it  is 
separated  from  North  Carolina  by  different  ridges  of  the  Appalachian 
chain,  passing  under  the  various  local  names  of  Stone,  Iron,  Bald,  and 
Unaka  mountains.  Then  follow  the  valleys  of  the  Holston  and  other 
rivers,  forming  the  head-waters  of  the  Tennessee.  Next  succeed  the 
Cumberland  mountains,  an  outlying  ridge  of  the  Alleghanies,  which  en- 
ters the  State  from  Kentucky,  and  crosses  it  in  a  south-west  direction, 
into  Alabama.  The  high!  of  these  mountains,  which  spread  over  about 
50  miles,  is  variously  estimated  at  from  1,000  to  2,000  feet.  They  are 
wooded  to  the  tops,  and  embosom  delightful  and  fertile  valleys.  Their 
summits  are  often  rounded  and  cultivated,  while  others  are  too  rugged 
for  tillage.  Middle  Tennessee,  lying  between  these  mountains  and  the 
Tennessee  river,  is  moderately  hilly,  while  the  section  between  the  river 
last  named  and  the  Mississippi,  called  West  Tennessee,  is  either  level  or 
gently  undulating. 

Minerals,  Mineral  Springs,  etc. — Gold  has  been  found  in  the 
south-east  part  of  the  State.    Among  the  other  metallic  minerals  are  iron 


620  TENNESSEE. 

in  abundance,  and  in  East  and  Middle  Tennessee  some  lead,  especially 
in  Carter  county,  silver,  zinc,  manganese,  and  magnetic  iron  ore.  Of  the 
earthy  minerals,  coal,  the  most  abundant  and  valuable,  is  found  in  large 
quantities  in  the  counties  among  the  Cumberland  mountains,  and  cover- 
ing an  area,  acording  to  Taylor,  of  4,300  square  miles.  There  is  also 
gypsum  of  a  fine  quality,  beautiful  varieties  of  marble,  nitre,  slate, 
(suitable  for  roofing,)  alum,  burr-stones,  and  limestone,  which  forms  the 
bed  of  a  large  portion  of  the  State.  Salt  springs  exist,  but  not  of  a 
very  rich  quality;  there  are  also  some  valuable  mineral  springs.  The 
iron  business  is  beginning  to  attract  the  attention  of  capitalists.  Ac- 
cording to  a  recent  statement,  there  were  on  the  Cumberland  river,  in 
the  early  part  of  1858,  21  furnaces,  9  forges,  and  2  rolling  mills,  em- 
ploying $1,216,000  capital,  and  manufacturing  44,500  tons  of  metal,  and 
1,400  kettles,  valued  together  at  $1,678,000.  Rich  deposits  of  copper 
are  found  in  the  south-east  part  of  Tennessee,  in  Polk  and  Monroe 
counties,  which  are  now  extensively  worked.  A  plank-road  is  nearly 
finished  from  the  Hiawassee  mines  to  the  Chattanooga  railroad.  This 
must  add  greatly  to  the  value  of  the  mines,  which  will  thus  be  made 
readily  accessible  from  a  shipping  port.  In  1854,  in  Polk  county,  12 
different  mines  were  in  operation,  5  of  which  shipped  640  tons  in 
one  month. 

PtiVERS. — Tennessee  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  great  Mississippi, 
and  twice'crossed  by  the  river  whose  name  it  bears.  The  Cumberland 
make  a  bend  into  the  north  of  the  State,  through  which  it  courses  for 
about  150  miles  before  it  returns  to  Kentucky,  thus  giving  that  portion 
of  the  State  water  communication  with  the  other  parts  of  the  great  Mis- 
sissippi and  Ohio  valleys.  The  Tennessee  enters  the  south-east  of  the 
State  from  North  Carolina,  receives  the  Holston  and  its  tributaries  from 
Virginia,  and  the  Hiawassee  from  Georgia,  then  turns  to  the  south-west 
into  Alabama  at  its  north-east  angle,  and  leaves  it  at  its  north-west  to 
re-enter  Tennessee,  which  it  crosses  in  a  course  almost  directly  north, 
into  Kentucky.  The  Hatchee,  a  tributary  of  the  Mississippi;  Duck 
river,  of  the  Tennessee,  from  middle  Tennessee,  and  the  Holston, 
Powell's,  and  Clinch,  tributaries  of  the  same  rivers  in  East  Tennessee, 
are  the  other  principal  streams.  The  Tennessee  has  a  total  course  of 
nearly  900  miles,  about  400  of  which  are  within  the  State,  and  700 
navagable  for  steamboats  (with  the  exception  of  that  portion  in  Alabama 
called  the  Muscle  Shoals)  to  its  junction  with  the  Holston,  in  East 
Tennessee.  The  Cumberland  is  navigible  400  miles  for  steamboats  to 
Carthage,  about  50  miles  above  Nashville,  in  a  direct  line.  The  tribu- 
tary streams  are  all  more  or  less  navigable,  either  for  steam  or  kee; 
boats,  during  high  water.  All  the  waters  of  this  State  ultimately  reach 
the  Mississippi,  though  generally  by  a  circuitous  course.  The  Forked 
Deer  river  is  navigable  150,  the  Big  Hatchee  above  100,  and  the  Obion 
60  miles,  for  steamboats. 

Objects  op  Interest  to  Tourists. — In  common  with  other  lime- 
stone regions,  Tennessee  has  numerous  caves,  several  of  which  are  at 
least  100  feet  below  the  the  surface,  and  a  mile  in  extent.  Some  are 
several  miles  in  length.     One  has  been  descended  for  about  400  feet 


TENNESSEE.  621 

below  the  surface,  where  was  found  a  stream  of  sufficient  force  to  turn 
a  mill.  Another,  on  the  top  of  Cumberland  mountains,  has  a  cave  of 
perpendicular  descent,  whose  bottom  has  never  been  sounded.  Bic  Bone 
cave  is  so  called  from  the  bones  of  the  mastodon  found  within  it.  These 
caves  are  all  in  the  Cumberland  mountains.  In  a  spur  of  the  same 
mountains,  called  the  Enchanted  mountain,  are  found  the  impressions 
of  the  feet  of  men  and  animals  in  the  hard  limestone  rock,  whose  ap 
pearance  has  never  been  accounted  for.  Near  Manchester,  in  Coffee 
county,  is  an  old  stone  fort,  situated  between  two  rivers,  and  including 
47  acres,  inclosed  by  a  wall,  on  which  trees  are  growing,  believed  to  be 
500  years  old.  In  Franklin  county  is  a  railway  tunnel,  through  a  spur 
of  the  Cumberland  mountains,  2,200  feet  long. 

Cltmate,  Soil,  and  Productions. — The  climate  of  Tennessee  is 
mild;  considerable  snow  sometimes  falls  in  the  winters,  which,  however, 
are  generally  short.  The  summers  are  free  from  the  intense  heat  of  the 
Gulf  States.  The  temperature  of  that  portion  of  the  State  among  the 
Cumberland  mountains  is  particularly  agreeable.  Most  parts  of  the 
State  are  healthy,  except  on  the  alluvions  of  the  great  rivers.  The  soil 
of  Tennessee  is  generally  arable,  and  of  a  good  quality.  In  East  Ten- 
nessee, much  of  the  land  among  the  mountains  is  poor  and  ill  adapted  to 
cultivation,  but  even  here  the  valleys  are  very  fertile.  This  section  is 
favorable  to  grazing,  and  great  numbers  of  live  stock  are  exported  from 
thence  to  the  Atlantic  States.  A  greater  number  of  mules  (75,303  in 
1850,  including  asses)  are  raised  in  Tennessee  than  in  any  other  State 
in  the  Union.  Middle  Tennessee  has  much  good  land.  "Western 
Tennessee  has  a  rich  black  mould,  and  on  the  shores  of  the  Mississippi 
and  Tennessee  rivers  are  extensive  brakes  of  gigantic  cane.  Indian 
corn,  tobacco,  and  cotton  are  the  great  staples.  In  1850,  Tennessee 
produced  more  hogs  than  any  State  in  the  Union,  was  fifth  in  the 
amount  of  Indian  corn  produced,  fourth  in  that  of  tobacco,  and  fifth  in 
cotton.  The  other  articles  cultivated  are  wheat,  rye,  oats,  buckwheat, 
barley,  sweet  and  Irish  potatoes,  wool,  maple  sugar,  flax,  hemp,  hay, 
cheese,  butter,  wine,  whisky,  and  fruits;  of  the  latter,  apples,  pears,  and 
plums.  According  to  the  census  of  1850,  there  were  in  Tennessee 
72,735  farms,  occupying  5^75,173  acres  of  improved  land,  (about  71 
acres  to  each  farm,)  producing  52,276,223  bushels  of  Indian  corn; 
7,703,086  of  oats;  1,619,386  of  wheat ;  89,137  of  rye;  2,737  of  barley; 
19,427  of  buckwheat;  1,067,844  of  Irish,  and  2,777,716  of  sweet  potatoes; 
369,321  of  peas  and  beans;  14,214  of  grass-seed,  and  18,904  of  flax- 
seed; 20,147,932  pounds  of  tobacco;  8,139,585  of  butter;  77,812,800 
of  cotton;  1,364,378  of  wool;  1,036,572  of  beeswax  and  honey;  177,681 
of  cheese;  368,131  of  flax;  3,000  of  cane,  and  158,557  of  maple  sugar; 
258,854  of  rice,  and  74,091  tons  of  hay;  live  stock  valued  at 
§29,678,016;  market  goods,  397,183;  orchard  products,  $52,894,  and 
slaughtered  animals,  $6,401,765. 

Forest  Trees. — The  forest  trees  are  pine,  (in  East  Tennessee,)  sugar- 
maple,  juniper,  red  cedar,  and  savin,  (on  the  mountains,)  poplar,  hick- 
ory, walnut,  oak,  beech,  sycamore,  locust,  cherry,  etc. 

The  animals  are  the  same  as   are  found  in  the  adjacent  States  of 
4U 


622  TENNESSEE. 

Kentucky  and  Virginia,  viz.,  deer,  raocoons,  foxes,  squirrels,  and  some- 
times, although  rarely,  bears,  in  the  wilder  sections  of  the  State. 

Manufactures. — The  natural  water-power,  especially  of  East  Tennes- 
see, combined  with  its  abundance  of  coal  and  other  fuel,  must,  as  soon 
as  the  railway  connections  with  the  Atlantic  States  are  completed,  make 
this  a  great  manufucturing  section;  for  in  addition  to  the  advantages 
mentioned,  she  has  in  her  neighborhood  the  staple  raw  materials,  cotton, 
wool,  and  hemp.  There  were  in  Tennessee  in  1850,  2,861  establishments 
each  producing  $500  and  upwards  annually,  engaged  in  mining,  manu- 
factures, and  the  mechanic  arts,  employing  $6,975,278  capital,  and 
11,154  male  and  878  female  hands ;  consuming  raw  material  worth 
$4,900,952,  and  yielding  products  valued  at  $9,728,438.  Among  these 
were  33  cotton  factories,  employing  $669,600  of  capital,  and  310  male 
and  581  female  hands,  consuming  raw  material  worth  $297,500,  and 
manufacturing  363,250  yards  of  stuffs,  and  2,326,250  pounds  of  yarn, 
worth  a  total  value  of  $510,624;  4  woolen  establishments,  employing 
$10,900  of  capital,  and  15  male  and  2  female  hands,  consuming  raw 
material  worth  $1,675,  and  manufacturing  2,220  hats,  worth  $6,310  ;  81 
furnaces,  forges,  etc.,  employing  $1,915,950  capital,  and  2,705  male  and 
172  female  hands,  consuming  raw  material  worth  $730,551,  and  manu- 
facturing 44,152  tons  of  wrought,  cast,  and  pig  iron,  worth  a  total  value 
of  $1,611,043;  30  in  manufacturing  spirituous  and  malt  liquors,  employ- 
ing $66,125  capital,  and  79  hands,  consuming  3,000  bushels  of  barley, 
258,400  of  corn,  and  5,480  of  rye,  and  producing  174,925  gallons  of 
whisky,  wine,  etc.;  and  364  tanneries,  employing  $490,320  capital, 
consuming  raw  material  worth  $396,159,  and  producing  leather  valued 
at  746,484.  Homemade  manufactures  also  were  produced  of  the  value 
of  $3,137,790,  and  family  goods  worth  $2,886,661. 

Internal  Improvements. — There  were  in  Tennessee,  January  1, 
1855,  517  miles  of  completed  raiload,  built  at  a  cost  of  10,436,610,  and 
946  miles  in  course  of  construction.  A  railroad,  (already  finished  to 
Nashville,)  connecting  Savannah  and  Charleston  with  Louisville  and  other 
points  on  the  Ohio  river,  will  pass  through  Tennessee.  Another,  in  a 
great  state  of  forwardness,  will  connect  the  same  points  with  Memphis ; 
and  others  with  New  Orleans  and  Mobile :  thus  opening  a  complete  com- 
munication between  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  valleys  and  with  Charles- 
ton and  Savannah.  The  last-named  places  are  now  (1855)  more  or  less 
directly  connected  with  Knoxville,  where  the  East  Tennessee  and 
Virginia  railroads,  now  rapidly  approaching  completion,  will  also 
terminate. 

Commerce. — Tennessee  has  but  little  foreign  commerce,  though  very 
favorably  located  for  domestic  trade,  being  washed  on  the  west  by  the 
Mississippi  river,  twice  crossed  by  the  Tennessee  river,  and  its  northern 
portion  traversed  for  more  than  100  miles  by  the  Cumberland,  all  of 
which  are  navigable  for  steamboats.  The  exports  are  mainly  live  stock, 
pork,  bacon,  lard,  butter,  ginseng,  cotton  bagging,  flour,  Indian  corn, 
fruits,  tobacco,  cotton,  hemp,  feathers,  and  saltpetre,  which  find  their 
way  mostly  to  New  Orleans,  and  thence  either  to  northern  or  foreign 
ports;  but  new  exits  are  about  being  opened  for  the  products  of  East 


TENNESSEE.  623 

and  Middle  Tennessee,  the  one  through  Virginia,  and  the  other  through 
Georgia  and  South  Carolina,  both  by  railroad.  Tennessee  has  no  direct 
foreign  trade;  tonnage  owned,  7,621,  in  1854;  built  the  same  year,  2 
vessels,  tonnage  only  208. 

Education. — Tennessee  had,  according  to  the  censes  of  1850,  8 
colleges,  with  570  students;  1  theological  school,  with  24,  and  1  medical 
school,  with  158  students ;  and  a  total  income  of  $65,037,  of  which 
$9,300  was  from  endowments,  and  §482  from  public  funds;  2,680  public 
schools,  with  104,117  pupils,  and  $198,518  income,  of  which  $8,912  was 
from  endowments,  $98,548  from  public  funds,  and  $4,500  from  taxation; 
264  academies  and  other  schools,  with  9,928  pupils,  and  $155,902  in- 
come, of  which  $6,183  was  from  endowments,  and  $10,008  from  public 
funds ;  and  attending  schools  as  returned  by  families,  146,200.  Of  the 
free  adult  population,  78,619,  of  whom  505  were  foreigners,  could  not 
read  or  write. 

Religious  Denominations. — There  were  in  Tennessee,  in  1850, 
2,027  churches,  of  which  the  Baptists  owned  648;  the  Christians,  63; 
Episcopalians,  16;  Free  church,  30;  Friends,  4;  Lutherans,  12;  Meth- 
odists, 867;  Presbyterians,  363;  Roman  Catholics,  4;  Tunkers,  1; 
Union  church,  15;  and  minor  sects,  3;  giving  one  church  to  every  500 
persons.     Value  of  church  property,  $1,216,201. 

Periodicals. — According  to  the  census,  there  were  published  in 
1850,  in  this  State,  8  daily,  2  tri-weekly,  and  36  weekly  newspapers, 
with  an  aggregate  annual  circulation  of  2,139,644  copies. 

Public  Institutions. — Tennessee  has  a  State  penitentiary,  at  Nash- 
ville, conducted  on  the  silent  system,  which  had  196  convicts  confined 
in  1850,  of  whom  9  were  of  foreign  birth,  and  7  colored  persons.  There 
is  also  a  deaf  and  dumb  asylum  at  Knoxville.  Tennessee  had  9  public 
libraries  in  1850,  with  5,373  volumes;  20  school  and  Sunday-school, 
with  7,598  volumes,  and  5  college  libraries,  with  9,925  volumes. 

Population. — Though  not  the  largest  in  area,  Tennessee  is  the 
second  State  in  point  of  population  in  the  great  Mississippi  valley.  Her 
sons  partake  of  the  same  parentage  as  those  of  Kentucky,  her  original 
settlers  having  been  mostly  from  North  Carolina  and  Virginia;  and 
they  share  with  the  Kentuckians  a  manly  frankness  of  character, 
courage,  and  loyalty  to  the  federal  constitution.  At  the  first  national 
census,  in  1790,  her  inhabitants  numbered  35,791;  105,602  in  1800; 
261,727  in  1810;  422,813  in  1820;  681,904  in  1830;  829,210  in  1840; 
and  1,002,717  in  1850;  of  whom  382,225  were  white  males,  374,601 
white  females;  3,117  free  colored  males,  3,305  colored  females;  118,780 
male,  and  120,679  female  slaves.  This  population  was  divided  into 
130,004  families,  occupying  129,419  dwellings.  Representative  popu- 
lation, 906,  830.  Population  to  square  mile,  21.99.  Of  the  free  popu- 
lation, 585,084  were  born  in  the  State;  170,571  in  other  States  of  the 
Union;  706  in  England;  2,640  in  Ireland  :  344  in  Scotland  and  Wales; 
1,168  in  Germany;  245  in  France;  76  in  British  America;  561  in  other 
countries,  and  1,759  whose  places  of  birth  were  unknown — giving  about 
1  per  cent,  of  the  free  population  of  foreign  birth.  In  the  year  ending 
June  1,  1850,  there  occurred  11,874  deaths,  or  nearly  12  persons  in 


•very  thousand,     la  the  suae  period.  1.005  propers,  of  whom  11 

of  fbreiga  birth.  receiTed  aid,  at  aa  expense  of  aboat  $30  for  eaek 

T-~:er        >:    ::;  f-'irf   -  ::  : . -.:     _  --.:-:    '    .J  :.z  .  '.:.-.       :  ~_ :~  _ 

were  free  colored,  aac  -  ■  :  i  bliad.  of  whom  9  were  free 

colored,  and  82  staves         i  ^ere  insane,  of  whom  5  were  free  colored. 
:  i      _  _  ^    idiotic,  of  whom  5  were  free  colored,  aad  85 

- .   -   ■         :  :"ir  ri'irf  :  I  '■£•  — rr-E      ..    ;    '.  :_  _ 

m  agikaftare  ia  commerce  315   in   maaafaetar  "in 

navntiae  tke  ocean     .    -   ia  internal  aaTi^ation;  aad  _      _   in  the 


I-  — _tH--tt:5     i--.l-.i__-      "  ;     "  :      .--..'..    r. 

3    I:-;    ?----z     I.    "._    ,    Bl:--:    Br:  ilfj.  C-_-__j:e_u  C;_  _  :-._<;  —Li. 

rae         Eh        I ee.  I^Tidson,  Decatnr.  Be  Kal 
I  1     -  " :    -  -     Z        c'-iz        .  i":  5  •  z-  -         :      -    : 

-  rady,  Hamihon.  Hancock.  Harieman.  Hardin.  Hawkins.  H_ 
Henderscn.  Henry.  Hkkman.  Humphreys,  Jackson.  Jefersoa,  Johnson, 

K:   _    1.    :l.:._.lr    H. .  ~7  ^  _  :  r    _-— :. ~       :_    ]..:   i    _•_!._...    -    ___.:_;::. 

H*—**"",   Manrr.   31 

Morgan.  Orion.  Overton.  1  Rhea,  Itmmr,  Robertson,  Bathe'r- 

■    ;      .:    *  i  ?  ___i__:     ? :  _■  -    :       _•  - . . :  ~  s.  z.     ■_■  z.  z.  z  _  ~     i : : : :  z 

_    n.  Warae,  Weakky,  White  -- 

sbn,  aad  Wilson.     Capital   X  -_i-illr. 

.mis  jsj  :    I        -  —      -  "        . .  i    . . .    - 


i    ■  : 


zzzl.j.  _  "7    :;    i        _ 

i-  :■' 

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---..- 

:      :                         -              ::: 

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r  --ii.  >7 : 

6:  1:  -  -r  :      ::   * 


vest  of  the  AHeghaaies,  emigrants  from  North  Carolina  taring  built 
F  rt  London,  in  East  Tennessee,  as  -early  as  But  this  settlement 

was  attacked  by  the  savages,  and  the  inhabitants  either  murdered  or 
driven  off.  Cohmkation,  however,  was  recommenced  in  a  few  years 
afterwards  in   the  same  section  of  the    9tal  colony  was   also 

harassed  by  the  Indians  till  after  the   Revul  itionary  war  finally, 

Tennessee  formed  a  part  of  the  possessions  of  North  Carolina,  whieh 
8ta:  "       -eneral  government  in  1 

:.-    when    he  inhabitants  attempted  to  f :«rm  an  independei -  : 

name  of  Franklinia.     It  was  finally  ceded  to   the    United 

government,  and  formed  a  part  of  the  soath-western  Territory 

till  its  admission   as  a  sove:     -  i  17        :  :-rming  the  sixteenth 

member  of  the  eonfeders  nnessee  took  an  aetive  part  in  the  war 

.ed  leaders  to  its  armies:  prominent 
aaaonz  whom  a  -         .eral  Andrew  Jaeks:>n,  since  so 
administration    of  the   affarr-  ral    government   during  his 

presidency.      James  K.  }  :'-      "  : 

Btatei  :  •     :      "  :    .        -     .  ~  -   - 

:lle.  a  handsome  and  flourishiac  jpital  of  the  State  and 

of  Davids  .on  the  left  bank  of  Cumberlan  i 

from  its  mewl      _  ist-north-east  of  Memphis.  296 

--■::"._ -—   -■  "  .    .■: "    ' '-       r-4  —      ■  ::  ~  Wash- 

ington.    Lititnle  r.onh.  longitn:^  B    -  -     ~est;  elevation  above 

:'..  s:-_  -  "  :  "■-  :  I:  s  '.z-  zi's:  -*rJ.zz.r  sr_I  r  :~  -'.  -  ':~j  ::  -  f"  =- 
5tt  -  _     -aed  for  its  en:-frrns;ig   -     ~         ::er  rv   :  i>     _i: 

polished  s<: :  ic  f      Maary  . "        rcsidcaces  are  hoik  on  a  scale  of 

palatial    magnitude   and  splendor,  and  the  publie  buildings  exhibi: 

:   -re-'    z.'. :    :_.r-  :.r.     __-.-  n  ~  :iri:     .  —  n;   i  -rnii   :r_  _  ::~m^ni- 

i  _■  -:  -_.  i  i  17"  : '-: --.- :  :  :  ~-  _:  r: "  r  :s  :  i  :  :n-  —  :  z  :  r_  .;• 
nificeat.  and  costly  structures  in  America.  The  material  is  of  a  fine 
lim.  -  wmmh  was  quarried  on  the  spot,  and  nearly  resembles  mar: 

H       mensions  sr     .-.  I     f  135.  and  the  estimated  cost  §1 

It  is  1  -    -    .  -  „;: .-  ;;     -'  -  n.  —  i:        -  " 

z       :   :..e   riaik  :~  ~i    -  "~:-  -   7;::  ~  -  •:;:    -     '-  -- 

1  '.  -.-..:         "      :     -    .    -":    7        Li      :    :     .   -     1      :  :~e 

capitol  was  laid  in  1845.  A  lunatic  asylum,  on  a  large  scale,  has  recently 
been  ri  in  the  v.;  1  --        I        -     -e  7 en::ei::iry  ;.:   -'1  5   :  i:;    Is 

.  containing '200  eel  -       The  Uai  :  Nashvffle  was 

founded  in   t£  The  Medical  college  connected  v  7  -  r     7 

was  18$]  Dceupies  a  capaci  >us  bu: 

100  student-.     Iiere  are  also  a  number  of  female  sem 
of  which  is  atteni  .-..'.-  -     : 

published  here.  "  ~     :-h  are  i-    i  s      N"  -  banks, 

wih  a  '  rial  of     *  id  about  14  charrtes.     The  mineral 

-       late  Pr   I  ontains  the  targes!  ;  rivate  collection  in 

the  Un  ■    1  States.  r-aberlar.  a  magnificent 

■  -  a  brid_-      '  built  at  a  cos:         r  '0.     Tire 

izhted  a  I  with  water  :  from  the  Cumberland 

river.     \..shvilie  has  expended  large  sums  in  the  construction  of 


626  TENNESSEE. 

amized  turnpikes,  8  of  which  radiate  in  different  directions.  The  river 
is  navigated  during  high  water  by  large  steamboats  from  its  mouth  to 
this  point,  and  a  number  of  splendid  packets  are  owned  here.  The  ship- 
ping of  the  port,  June  30,  1852,  amounted  to  an  aggregate  of  4,083 
tons,  enrolled  and  licensed,  all  of  which  were  employed  in  steam  naviga- 
tion. During  the  year,  5  steamboats,  with  an  aggregate  burthen  of 
4791  tons,  were  admeasured.  This  city  is  the  center  of  an  active  trade, 
and  the  seat  of  manufactures  of  various  kinds.  Nashville  is  the  ter- 
minus of  the  Nashville  and  Chattanooga  railroad,  150  miles  long,  which 
was  finished  in  1852,  at  an  expense  of  about  $3,000,000.  The  road  is 
built  in  a  very  substantial  manner,  and  completes  the  connection  with 
Charleston  and  Savannah.  The  construction  of  this  railroad  has  greatly 
enhanced  the  value  of  property,  and  has  given  vigorous  impulse  to  the 
prosperity  and  improvement  of  the  place.  Other  railroads  have  been 
commenced,  which  will  connect  this  city  with  Louisville,  Memphis,  New 
Orleans,  etc.     Population  in  1845,  12,000  ;  in  1853,  about  20,000. 

Memphis,  a  flourishing  city  and  port  of  entry  of  Shelby  county,  is 
beautifully  situated  on  the  Mississippi  river,  just  below  the  mouth  of 
Wolf  river,  and  on  the  4th  Chackasaw  bluff,  420  miles  below  St.  Louis,  and 
209  miles  west-south-west  of  Nashville.     It  is  the  most  populous  and 
important  town  on  the  river  between  St.  Louis  and  New  Orleans,  and 
occupies  the  only  eligible  site  for  a  commercial  depot  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Ohio  to  Vicksburg,  a  distance  of  650  miles.     The  bluff  on  which  it 
stands  is  elevated  about  30  feet  above  the  highest  floods,  and  its  base  is 
washed  by  the  river  for  a  distance  of  3  miles,  while  a  bed  of  sandstone  pro- 
jects into  the  stream  and  forms  a  convenient  landing.     The  appearance  of 
Memphis  from  the  river  is  remarkably  fine.  An  esplanade,  several  hundred 
feet  wide,  extends  along  the  bluff  in  front  of  the  town,  and  is  bordered 
with  blocks  of  large  warehouses.       Travelers,  who  have  recently  visited 
Memphis,  express  astonishment  at  the  signs  of  improvement  and  com- 
mercial activity  which  are  here  exhibited.      The  population    has   been 
doubled  since  1845.     It  contains  6  or  7  churches,  1  academy,  a  medical 
college,  2  banks,  and  a  telegraph  office.     The  United  States  government 
has  recently  established  a  naval  depot  at  this  place.     The  river  is  deep 
enough  to  float  the  largest  ship  of  war  from  this  point  to  its  mouth.  The 
building  of  steamboats  has  been  commenced,  and  manufactories  of  cot- 
ton, iron,  and  ropes  have  been  established.     Six  weekly  and  several  daily 
newspapers  are  published  here.     Memphis  is  the  western  terminus  of 
the  Memphis  and  Charleston  railroad,  part  of  which   is   in   operation. 
Another  railroad  is  in  course  of  construction  from  this  place  to  Nash- 
ville, and  one  also  projected  to  Little  Rock,  Arkansas.     Steamboats  make 
frequent  passages  between  this  and  other  ports  on  the  river.  The  quantity 
of  cotton   annually  shipped  here  is  estimated  at  above  100,000  bales. 
The  population  in  1840  was  3,300,  in  1850  it  amounted  to  8,841,  and  in 
1853  it  was  estimated  at  12,000. 

Knoxville,  a  flourishing  city,  capital  of  Knox  county,  and  formerly 
the  seat  of  the  State  government,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Holston  river,  4  miles  below  its  confluence  with  the  French 
Broad  river,  185  miles  east  of  Nashville,  and  204  miles  south-east  of 


TENNESSEE.  627 

Lexington,  Kentucky.  The  situation  is  elevated  and  healthy,  command- 
ing a  b  autiful  view  of  the  river,  and  the  Blue  mountains  of  Chilhowee, 
som  >.  30  miles  distant.  The  river  is  navigable  for  steamboats  at  all  sea- 
sons from  this  point  downward;  and  during  the  winter  and  spring  they 
extend  ihir  trips  up  the  river  as  far  as  Kingsport.  This  region,  however, 
in  future  will  not  be  dependent  on  the  river  for  the  means  of  transpor- 
tation. The  East  Tennessee  and  Georgia  railroad,  which  extends  from 
Knoxville  to  Dalton,  in  Georgia,  connecting  wTith  the  railways  in  that 
State,  was  opened  in  1852,  and  has  given  a  new  impetus  to  every  depart- 
ment of  business.  Another  railroad  has  been  commenced,  which  will 
extend  from  Knoxville  to  the  Virginia  line.  When  these  two  roads  shall 
have  been  completed,  East  Tennessee  will  be  intersected  by  a  chain  of 
railways  extending  from  Boston  to  Memphis,  forming  the  great  thorough- 
fare of  the  Union,  and  traversing  a  country  remarkable  for  the  fertility 
of  its  soil  and  the  salubrity  of  its  climate.  This  will  be  the  most  central 
and  direct  line  from  New  York  to  New  Orleans.  Knoxville,  from  its 
midway  position,  may  be  expected  to  derive  much  benefit  from  the  im- 
mense amount  of  trade  and  travel  which  must  pass  along  this  route.  The 
completion  of  the  railroad  from  Dalton  to  Knoxville  appears  to  have 
produced  a  great  sensation  among  the  inhabitants  of  East  Tennessee,  a 
region  heretofore  almost  isolated  from  the  busy  world.  In  the  poetical 
language  of  a  gentleman  residing  in  that  region,  to  whom  the  editors  are 
indebted  for  much  valuable  information,  "  the  neigh  of  the  iron  horse 
mingles  with  the  roar  of  her  innumerable  water-falls,  and  awakens  the 
echoes  of  her  vast  and  silent  forests."  The  city  already  exhibits  an 
aspect  of  increased  prosperity,  and  manufactures  of  various  kinds  are 
springing  up  in  its  vicinity.  The  manufactory  of  window-glass  in  this 
place  is  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  Southern  States.  Knoxville  con- 
tains the  State  asylum  for  the  deaf  and  dumb,  and  is  the  seat  of  the 
University  of  East  Tennessee,  founded  in  1807.  It  has  5  churches, 
3  banks,  several  academies,  and  printing  offices  issuing  6  or  7  newspapers. 
It  was  laid  out  in  1794,  in  which  year  it  became  the  capital  of  the  State, 
and  so  continued  until  1817.  Population  in  1850,  3,690;  in  1854, 
about  5,000. 

Chattanooga,  a  nourishing  post-village  of  Hamilton  county,  on  the 
Tennessee  river,  250  miles  by  water  below  Knoxville,  and  140  miles 
Bouth-east  of  Nashville.  It  is  the  terminus  of  the  Nashville  and  Chat- 
tanooga railroad,  and  of  the  Western  Atlantic  railroad  which  connects  it 
with  the  chief  towns  of  Georgia.  The  Tennessee  river  is  navigable  by 
steam  during  about  8  months  in  the  year,  and  by  small  boats  at  all  times. 
These  circumstances  render  Chattanooga  one  of  the  most  important  and 
flourishing  towns  of  the  State.  Since  the  completion  of  the  Western 
and  Atlantic  railroad,  in  1850,  the  population  has  increased  at  the  rate 
of  about  100  per  month.  The  surplus  productions  of  East  Tennessee, 
and  part  of  Middle  Tennessee,  are  mostly  shipped  from  this  point.  The 
surrounding  region  is  liberally  supplied  with  water-power  and  timber,  and 
the  hills  contain  abundance  of  stone  coal  and  iron  ore.  Chattanooga  has  1 
flteam  saw-mill,  2  sash  and  blind  factories,  3  cabinet  factories,  in  which 
Bteam-power  is  used,  4  newspaper  offices,  and  1  bank.     The  manufacture 


628  KENTUCKY. 

of  iron  has  also  been  commenced.  Laid  out  in  1839.  Population  in 
1853,  estimated  at  3,500. 

Columbia,  a  beautiful  and  thriving  post-village,  capital  of  Maury 
county,  is  on  the  left  bank  of  Duck  river,  41  miles  south  by  west  of 
Nashville.  A  company  has  been  formed  to  improve  the  navigation  of 
Duck  river.  The  surrounding  country  is  populous  and  highly  productive. 
The  town  has  considerable  trade,  and  is  distinguished  by  the  excellence 
of  its  schools.  It  is  the  seat  of  Jackson  College,  and  of  3  female 
seminaries.  The  Columbia  Female  Institute  is  a  splendid  structure,  sur- 
rounded with  beautiful  grounds.  The  proposed  railroad  leading  from 
Nashville  to  Jackson,  (in  Mississippi,)  and  Mobile,  will  probably  pass 
through  this  place.  Columbia  was  the  residence  of  President  Polk  pre- 
vious to  his  election  in  1844.  It  contains  2  banks,  and  3  or  4  news- 
paper offices.     Population  about  2,500. 

Murfreesborough,  a  handsome  post-village,  capital  of  Rutherford 
county,  is  on  the  railroad  from  Nashville  to  Charleston,  in  South  Caro- 
lina, 30  miles  south-east  of  Nashville.  It  is  situated  in  a  beautiful 
plain,  surrounded  by  a  healthy  and  fertile  country.  The  Union  Uni- 
versity at  this  place  is  a  flourishing  institution,  founded  by  the  Baptists, 
in  1841.  There  is  also  a  female  institute,  under  the  direction  of  the 
Baptists ;  1  bank,  and  5  churches.  Two  newspapers  are  published 
here.  Murfreesborough  was  the  capital  of  Tennessee  from  1817  to  1827, 
when  the  State  house  was  consumed  by  fire. 


STATE   OF  KENTUCKY. 


This  State,  the  second  admitted  into  the  confederacy  after  the  Revolu- 
tion, is  bounded  on  the  north-west  and  north  by  Illinois,  Indiana, 
and  Ohio,  (from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Ohio  river,)  east  by  the 
Big  Sandy  river  and  Cumberland  mountains,  which  divide  it  from  Vir- 
ginia ;  south  by  Tennessee,  and  west  by  the  Mississippi  river,  which 
runs  between  it  and  Missouri.  Kentucky  lies  between  36°  30'  and  39° 
10'  north  latitude,  and  between  81°  50'  and  89°  26'  west  longitude, 
being  about  300  miles  in  length,  from  east  to  west,  about  180  in  its 
greatest,  and  150  in  average  width,  and  including  an  area  of  nearly 
37,680  square  miles,  or  24,115,200  acres,  of  which  11,368,270  were  im- 
proved in  1850. 

Face    of    the   Country. — The   Cumberland   mountains  form  the 


KENTUCKY.  629 

south-east  boundary  of  the  State,  and  several  outlying  ridges  traverse 
the  south-east  counties,  but  none  of  them  are  of  great  elevation,  being 
probably  under  2,000  feet.  Passing  west,  the  central  and  north  counties 
are  hilly,  or  undulating,  but  those  west  of  the  Cumberland  river  are 
mostly  level.  A  range  of  hills  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  Ohio  river, 
with  intervals  of  bottom-land  between  it  and  the  river,  sometimes  hav- 
ing a  breadth  of  10  or  even  20  miles. 

Geology. — This  State  partakes  of  the  carboniferous  rocks  character- 
istic of  the  Mississippi  valley.  The  strata,  which  are  composed  of 
sedimentary  rocks,  lie  all  nearly  horizontal,  or  with  very  little  dip,  verg- 
ing from  Cincinnati  as  a  center.  The  blue  limestone  is  the  lowest  rock 
in  Kentucky  exposed  to  the  surface,  mostly  mixed  with  clay  and  mag- 
nesia; the  latter  is  found  sometimes  in  large  quantites.  It  forms  the 
surface  rock  in  a  large  part  of  Kentucky  adjacent  to  the  State  of  Ohio, 
extending  south-east  from  Dayton  to  Danville,  and  east  from  Madison  to 
Maysville. 

Minerals. — Kentucky  abounds  in  bituminous  coal,  which,  though 
not  yet  extensively  mined,  crops  out  of  the  river  banks  and  hill -sides, 
indicating  its  localities,  when  the  scarcity  of  wood  or  the  increase  of 
manufactures  may  call  for  its  use.  The  amount  of  iron  manufac- 
tured in  1850  was  about  33,000  tons.  Lead,  iron-pyrites,  marble,  (on  the 
cliffs  of  the  Kentucky  river,)  freestone,  gypsum,  conglomerate,  and  cliff 
limestone  are  the  other  minerals.  Salt  and  medicinal  springs  are 
particularly  numerous  in  this  State.  The  salt  licks,  so  famous  in  the 
hunter's  vocabulary,  are  names  given  to  the  vicinity  of  the  salt  springs, 
where  the  buffalo  and  other  wild  animals  have  licked  the  ground,  and 
almost  eaten-  it,  so  as  to  present  a  bare  space  for  some  distance  around. 

Rivers. — Kentucky  is  washed  along  the  entire  extent  of  her  north 
boundary  by  the  Ohio  river,  which  gives  her  a  steamboat  navigation  of 
more  than  600  miles,  and  opens  to  her  the  inland  commerce  of  the  Ohio 
valley.  The  great  Mississippi  in  like  manner  coasts  her  west  limits,  and 
gives  Kentucky  access  to  the  trade  of  the  immense  valley  which  bears 
its  name.  The  Cumberland  river  rises  in  the  south-east  part  of  the 
State.  The  Tennessee  has  its  mouth,  and  about  70  miles  of  its  course,  in 
that  part  of  the  State  west  of  the  Cumberland  river.  The  other  rivers, 
commencing  at  the  east,  are  the  Licking,  Kentucky,  Salt,  and  Green 
rivers.  The  Big  Sandy,  a  tributary  of  the  Ohio,  (as  are  all  the  important 
streams  of  Kentucky,)  forms  the  east  boundary  for  about  100  miles. 

Objects  of  Interest  to  Tourists. — No  western  State  probably  pre- 
sents so  great  a  variety  of  objects  to  interest  the  lover  of  nature  as 
Kentucky  ;  whether  we  regard  mere  picturesqueness,  or  the  wild  and 
more  striking  deviations  from  the  ordinary  course  of  creation.  Prominent 
among  these,  and  perhaps  first  among  the  subterranean  caverns  of  the 
globe,  stands  the  Mammoth  cave,  in  Edmondson  county,  south  of  the  mid- 
dle of  the  State.  In  the  extent  and  number  of  its  chambers,  in  the 
length  of  its  galleries,  and  its  variety  of  interesting  objects,  such  as 
streams,  mounds,  stalactites,  stalagmites,  etc.,  it  has  no  equal.  It  is  said 
to  have  been  explored  for  10  miles  (part  of  that  distance  in  a  boat,  on  a 
deep  river,  inhabited  by  white,  eyeless  fish)  without  giving  any  indica- 


630  KENTUCKY. 

cations  of  coming  to  a  termination.  If  its  lateral  branches  are  included, 
you  have  an  extent  of  probably  40  miles  of  cavernous  windings.  Sta- 
lactites of  ponderous  size  hang  from  the  vaults,  formed  by  the  droppings 
from  the  limestone  roofs,  and  gigantic  stalagmites  bristle  the  floors  of 
these  immense  chambers ;  one  of  which,  called  the  Temple,  is  stated  to 
occupy  an  area  of  2  acres,  and  to  be  covered  by  a  single  dome  of  solid 
rock,  120  feet  high. 

Climate. — Kentucky  enjoys  in  her  climate  a  happy  medium  between 
the  severity  of  the  Northern  States  and  the  enervating  heats  of  the 
South,  having  but  2  or  3  months'  winter,  with  mild  springs  and  autumns. 
It  is  milder  than  the  same  latitude  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  Allega- 
nies,  but  subject  to  sudden  changes. 

Soil  and  Productions. — In  the  fertility  of  its  soil,  Kentucky  rivals 
the  most  favored  parts  of  the  great  Mississippi  valley.  Perhaps  no 
district  in  the  United  States  surpasses  that  around  Lexington,  both  for 
the  richness  of  the  soil  and  the  picturesqueness  of  "  its  lay,"  if  we  may 
be  allowed  the  use  of  the  term.  Kentucky  is  generally  well  tim- 
bered, and  in  parts  the  cane  grows  to  a  hight  of  12  feet,  forming  exten- 
sive cancbrakes,  so  dense  that  it  is  often  difficult  to  pass  through  them. 
The  Barrens,  so  called,  in  the  south  part  of  the  State,  and  about  the 
head-waters  of  the  Green  river,  are  very  unjustly  named,  as,  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  sterile  elevations,  they  are,  when  in  a  state  of  nature, 
covered  with  pasture.  Its  staple  products  are  Indian  corn,  tobacco,  flax, 
and  hemp,  besides  which  large  quantities  of  wheat,  rye,  oats,  wool,  peas, 
beans,  Irish  and  sweet  potatoes,  barley,  fruits,  market  products,  butter, 
cheese,  hay,  grass-seeds,  maple-sugar,  beeswax,  and  honey,  and  some 
buckwheat,  rice,  wine,  hops,  cotton,  silk,  and  sugar-cane  are  produced. 
Forest  Trees. — Kentucky,  at  its  first  settlement,  was  one  of  the 
best  wooded  of  the  western  States.  The  natural  growth  of  the  State 
include  the  blackwalnut,  oak,  chestnut,  buckeye,  sugar-tree,  elm,  papaw, 
honey-locust,  mulberry,  ash,  yellow  poplar,  coffee-tree,  cottonwood,  and 
whitethorn.  The  fruit-trees  are  the  apple,  pear,  plum,  and  peach. 
Manufactures.— Kentucky  is  not  yet  largely  engaged  in  manufac- 
tures, though  the  amount  of  capital  invested  in  this  branch  of  industry 
is  considerable. 

Internal  Improvements. — Although  Kentucky  has  not  kept  pace 
with  her  sister  States  north  of  the  Ohio  river  in  constructing  works  of 
intercommunication,  yet  she  has  not  been  inattentive  to  the  importance 
of  cheap  and  expeditious  means  of  transport  for  her  valuable  products. 
In  January,  1854,  there  was  233  miles  of  railroad  in  operation,  and  452 
(according  to  one  statement,  or  550  according  to  another,)  in  course  of 
construction.  g 

Commerce. — Kentucky  carries  on  an  active  trade  with  New  Orleans, 
and  other  towns  on  the  Mississippi  and  Ohio  rivers.  Most  of  her  rivers 
are  navigable  to  a  considerable  distance  for  steamboats,  and  still  further 
for  flatboats.  The  exports  are  hemp,  salt,  beef,  pork,  bacon,  butter,  hogs, 
horses,  and  mules.  Large  numbers  of  the  last  two  are  annually  driven 
east  to  the  Atlantic  States  for  sale.  Cotton  bagging  and  hemp  cordage 
are  also  extensive  articles  of  export. 


KENTUCKY.  631 

Education. — In  December,  1854,  the  State  school  fund  amounted  to 
$1  400,270,  yielding  an  annual  income  of  about  $75,000.  According  to 
the  census  of  1850,  Kentucky  had  15  colleges,  with  1,873  students,  and 
$131,461  income,  of  which  $45,608  was  from  endowments,  and  $15,447 
from 'taxation;  2,234  public  schools,  with  71,429  pupils*  and  $211,852 
income,  of  which  $41,276  was  from  taxation,  and  $46,376  from  public 
funds;  and  330  academies  and  other  schools,  with  12,712  pupils,  and 
$252,617  income,  of  which  $5,445  was  from  endowments,  and  $5,534 
from  public  funds. 

Religious  Denominations. — Of  the  1,845  churches  in  Kentucky  in 
1850,  803  were  owned  by  different  sects  of  Baptists;  117  by  the  Chris- 
tians; 119  by  the  Episcopalians;  34  by  the  Free  Church;  530  by  the 
Methodists  ;  224  by  the  Presbyterians ;  48  by  the  Roman  Catholics ; 
30  by  the  Union  Church.  The  rest  were  owned  by  the  African  Church, 
German  Protestant,  Jews,  Lutherans,  Republicans,  Shakers,  Tunkers, 
Unitarians,  and  Universalists. 

Public  Institutions. — Kentucky  has  not  been  unmindful  of  her  un- 
fortunate children,  for  249  of  whom  a  State  lunatic  asylum  at  Lexington 
afforded  shelter  and  medical  aid  in  1852 ;  a  deaf  and  dumb  asylum  at 
Danville  instructed  67  mute  and  deaf,  and  a  blind  school  at  Louisville, 
35  sightless  pupils.  A  second  lunatic  asylum  is  nearly  finished  at  Hop- 
kinsville,  at  a  cost  of  $180,000.  The  State  Penitentiary  at  Frankfort 
confined  166  prisoners  in  the  same  year. 

Population.  —  The  population  of  Kentucky  was  originally  derived 
from  Virginia  and  North  Carolina,  and  has  always  been  noted  for  its 
stalwart  forms,  frank  and  manly  bearing,  for  gallantry  in  the  field,  and 
fondness  for  humor.  The  number  of  inhabitants  in  1790  was  73,077; 
220,955  in  1800;  406,511  in  1810;  564,317  in  1820;  687,917  in  1830; 
779,828  in  1840;  and  982,405  in  1850— of  392,840  were  white  males, 
368,609  white  females,  4,861  free  colored  miles,  5,150  free  colored 
females;  105,063  male,  and  105,918  female  slaves. 

Counties. — Kentucky  is  divided  into  101  counties,  viz.,  Adair,  Allen, 
Anderson,  Ballard,  Barren,  Bath,  Boone,  Bourbon,  Boyle,  Breathitt, 
Bracken,  Breckenridge,  Bullitt,  Butler,  Caldwell,  Callaway,  Campbell, 
Carroll,  Carter,  Casey,  Christian,  Clark,  Clay,  Clinton,  Crittenden,  Cum- 
berland, Daviess,  Edmonson,  Kstil,  Fayette,  Fleming,  Floyd,  Franklin, 
Fulton,  Gallatin,  Garrard,  Grant,  Graves,  Grayson,  Greene,  Greenup, 
Hancock,  Hardin,  Harlan,  Harrison,  Hart,  Henderson,  Henry,  Hick- 
man, Hopkins,  Jefferson,  Jessamine,  Johnson,  Kenton,  Knox,  Laurel, 
La  Rue,  Lawrence,  Letcher,  Lewis,  Lincoln,  Livingston,  Logan,  Madi- 
son, Marion,  Marshall,  Mason,  McCracken,  Meade,  Mercer,  Monroe, 
Montgomery,  Morgan,  Muhlenburg,  Nelson,  Nicholas,  Ohio,  Oldham, 
Owen,  Owsley,  Pendleton,  Perry,  Pike,  Powell,  Pulaski,  Rockcastle, 
Russel,  Scott,  Shelby,  Simpson,  Spencer,  Taylor,  Todd,  Trigg,  Trimble, 
Union,  Warren,  Washington,  Wayne,  Whitley,  Woodford.  Capital, 
Frankfort. 

Cities  and  Towns. — Louisville  is  the  largest  and  most  commercial 
town,  population  in  1850,  43,194;  in  1853,  51,726;  the  other  most 
populous  towns  are   Lexington,  population   about  12,000  ;  Covington, 


632  KENTUCKY. 

9,408,  (12,000  in  1853;)  Newport,  5,895,  (9,000  in  1853;)  Maysville, 
3,840;  Frankfort,  in  1853,  5,000;  and  Paducah,  population  2,428. 

Government,  Finances,  etc. — The  governor  of  Kentucky  is  elected 
by  the  people  for  four  years,  and  receives  $2,500  per  annum.  The 
Senate  consists  of  38  members,  elected  for  4,  and  tbe  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives of  100  members,  elected  for  2  years.  Tbe  legislature  meets 
on  tbe  first  Monday  in  December.  The  judiciary  consists — 1.  Of  a 
court  of  appeals,  composed  of  one  chief  and  three  associate  judges.  2.  Of 
a  court  of  chancery,  presided  over  by  a  single  chancellor;  and,  3.  Of  12 
circuit  courts.  The  judges  of  the  court  of  appeals  and  the  chancellor 
each  receive  $1,500  per  annum,  and  the  circuit  judges  $1,400.  All  these 
officers  are  elected  by  the  people.  The  judges  of  appeals  for  8  years, 
(one  every  second  year,)  and  of  the  circuit  courts,  for  6  years.  Ken- 
tucky is  entitled  to  10  members  in  the  National  House  of  Representatives, 
and  to  12  electoral  votes  for  president  of  the  United  States.  The 
assessed  value  of  property,  real  and  personal,  in  this  State  in  1853,  was 
$366,752,852 ;  the  public  debt  in  the  same  year  was  $6,147,283  ;  pro- 
ductive property,  $6,000,000,  and  ordinary  expenses,  exclusive  of  debt 
and  schools,  $250,000.  The  receipts  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  October, 
1852,  were  $782,885,  and  expenditures  $724,694.  The  receipts  of  the 
sinking  fund  for  the  payment  of  the  public  debt,  for  tbe  same  time,  were 
$484,949. 

History. — The  name  of  Kentucky  ("  the  dark  and  bloody  ground  ") 
is  an  epitome  of  her  early  history,  of  her  dark  and  bloody  conflicts  with  the 
wily  and  savage  foe.     This  State  was  formerly  included  in  tbe  Territory 
of  Virginia,  to  which  it  belonged  till  1792.     It  was  originally  explored 
by  the  far-famed  Daniel  Boone  (of  many  of  whose  daring  exploits  it  was 
the  scene)  and  his  compeers,  about  the  year  1769,  at  or  near  which  date 
Boonsborough  was  settled.     Harrodsburg  was  found  in  1774,  and  Lex- 
ington a  year  or  two  after,  probably  while  the  news  of  the  battle  of  that 
name  was  fresh  in  the  minds  and  hearts  of  its  founders.     The  first  court 
was  held  at  Harrodsburg  in  1777.     The  first  settlers  was  much  annoyed 
by  the  incursions  and  attacks  of  the  Indians.     The  State  owes  its  name 
not  merely  to  the  Indian  forays  upon  the  whites,  but  to  its  being  the 
battle-ground  between  the  northern  and  southern  Indians.     There  was 
a  period  of  discontent  subsequent  to  the  Revolution,  and  previous  to  the 
admission  of  Kentucky  into  the  federal  Union,  in  1792,  caused  partly 
by  the  inefficiency  of  the  protection  afforded  by  Virginia  and  the  old 
federal  Congress  against  the  inroads  of  tbe  savages,  and  partly  by  a  dis- 
trust lest  tbe  central  government  should  surrender  the  right  to  navigate 
tbe  Mississippi  to  its  mouth.      The  most  important  battle  ever  fought  on 
the  soil  of  Keutucky,  since  it  has  been  in  the  possession  of  the  white  race, 
was  that  fought  between  the  Indians  and  the  Kentuckians,  on  the  19th 
of  August,  1782,  near  the  Blue  Lick  springs.     The  celebrated  Colonel 
Boone  bore  a  prominent  part  in  this  engagement,  in  which  he  lost  a  son. 
The  whites  numbered  only  182,  while  the  savages  were  twice  or  thrice 
that  number.     The  combat  resulted  in  the  route  of  the  Kentuckians,  and 
a  loss  of  60  killed  and  wounded.     Thus  ended  the  most  disastrous  con- 
flict in  which  the  whites  had  been  engaged  with  the  aborigines  since  the 


KENTUCKY.  633 

defeat  of  Braddock.  Kentucky  was  the  central  scene  of  the  imputed 
intrigues  of  Aaron  Burr  and  his  coadjutors  to  form  a  western  republic. 
The  Kentuckians,  however  frank  and  brave  in  character,  were  not  the 
material  from  which  to  manufacture  rebels ;  nor  the  State  that  gave 
Henry  Clay  to  the  national  councils,  one  to  foster  disunionists.  Ken- 
tucky was  largely  and  effectively  represented  in  the  war  with  Great 
Britain  in  1812,  and  in  the  more  recent  conflicts  with  Mexico  in  1846 
and  1847. 

Louisville,  a  flourishing  city  and  port  of  entry,  and  seat  of  justice  of 
Jefferson  county,  is  situated  on  the  Ohio  river,  at  the  head  of  the  Louisville 
falls,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Beargrass  creek,  130  miles  below  Cincinnati, 
53  miles  west  of  Frankfort,  and  590  miles  from  Washington.  Latitude 
38°  3'  north,  longitude  85°  30'  west.  It  is  the  largest  town  in  the  State, 
and  one  of  the  most  important  places  on  the  Ohio  river.  A  railroad,  93 
miles  long,  connects  it  with  Frankfort  and  Lexington,  and  several  others 
are  in  course  of  construction  from  this  place  to  Danville,  Nashville,  etc. 
The  situation  and  surrounding  scenery  are  remarkably  beautiful.  Lou- 
isville stands  on  a  plain  elevated  about  70  feet  above  low  water,  and  is 
regularly  laid  out.  Eight  handsome  streets  extend  nearly  two  miles  in 
length  parallel  with  the  river,  which  here  flows  from  east  to  west.  These 
vary  in  width  from  60  to  120  feet,  and  are  intersected,  at  right  angles, 
by  more  than  30  others,  with  a  uniform  width  of  60  feet.  The  streets 
are  generally  paved,  and  lighted  with  gas,  and  bordered  with  ornamental 
trees.  The  most  remarkable  public  buildings  are  the  City  Hall,  and 
Court-house,  the  First  Presbyterian  church,  St.  Paul's  church,  (Episco- 
pal,) the  Medical  Institute,  and  the  University  of  Louisville.  The  His- 
torical Society  of  this  place  has  collected  valuable  documents  relating  to 
the  early  history  of  the  State.     Louisville  also  contains  a  marine  asylum. 

Louisville  may  be  said  to  owe  its  existence  to  the  falls,  which  arrested 
the  course  of  navigation  at  this  point.  In  1853,  a  canal  2h  miles  long 
was  opened  around  these  falls,  with  a  total  lockage  of  22  feet.  It  was 
cut  through  the  solid  limestone  rock,  at  a  cost  of  1750,000.  The  dimen- 
sions having  been  found  too  small  to  admit  the  passage  of  the  largest 
steamers  now  built  for  the  New  Orleans  trade,  a  railway  has  been  pro- 
jected on  the  Indiana  side,  the  object  of  which  is  to  transport  such 
vessels  around  the  rapids  by  means  of  a  stationary  engine  and  pulleys. 
The  stock  has  been  taken,  and  the  work  will  doubtless  shortly  be  com- 
pleted. In  1850  the  entire  trade  of  Louisville  was  estimated  at  $50,000,- 
000.  (De  Bow's  Beview.)  The  wholesale  business  has  increased  rapidly 
since  that  period.  There  are  now  near  100  houses  doing  an  exclusively 
wholesale  business,  the  amount  of  which  is  computed  at  $20,321,400; 
viz.,  25  of  dry  goods,  39  of  groceries,  8  of  drugs,  9  of  hardware,  8  of 
hats  and  furs,  8  of  boots  and  shoes,  and  9  of  saddlery.  Many  of  the 
warehouses  are  3  or  4  stories  high,  and  from  100  to  130  feet  deep.  No 
exact  record  has  been  kept  of  the  exports  of  this  town,  but  a  good  esti- 
mate may  be  found  from  the  number  of  steamboat  arrivals  ;  which,  from 
the  different  ports  below  the  falls,  for  the  year  ending  June  30,  1852, 
was  1,124 ;  the  number  from  the  upper  Ohio  was  probably  about  the 
same.     The  chief  articles  of  export  are  tobacco,  pork,  hemp,  and  flour. 


634  KENTUCKY. 

Louisville  is  a  commercial  rather  than  a  manufacturing  town.  Its 
manufactures,  however,  comprise  a  great  variety  of  articles,  and  are 
estimated  to  amount  in  value  to  about  86,000,000  annually.  Among  the 
principal  establishments  may  be  mentioned  15  iron  foundries,  employing 
930  hands,  and  producing  manufactures  to  the  value  of  $1,392,200;  82 
tobacco  factories,  employing  1,050  hands,  who  turn  out  $1,347,500  worth 
of  manufactured  tobacco;  45  for  making  clothing,  employing  1,157 
hands,  and  producing  articles  to  the  value  of  $941,500;  25  of  furniture, 
employing  446  persons,  who  turn  out  $638,000  worth  of  cabinet-ware; 

11  rope-walks,  yielding  goods  to  the  value  of  $460,000  ;  6  soap  and 
candle  factories,  producing  goods  to  the  value  of  $409,000;  9  flour  and 
feed  mills,  9  tanneries,  3  cotton  and  woolen  factories,  3  oil-mills,  3  bag- 
ging factories,  2  white  lead  factories,  a  glass  factory,  and  several  pot- 
teries. Population  in  1830,  10,341;  in  1840,  21,210;  in  1850,  43,196; 
and  in  1852,  it  amounted  to  51,726. 

Lexington,  a  handsome  and  wealthy  city,  capital  of  Fayette  county, 
on  the  Town  fork  of  the  Elkhorn  river,  25  miles  south-east  of  Frankfort, 
81  miles  south  of  Cincinnati,  and  94  miles  east  of  Louisville.  Latitude 
38°  6'  north,  longitude  84°  18'  west.  Lexington  is  the  second  city  of 
the  State  in  population  and  importance.  Few  inland  towns  are  more 
delightfully  situated  or  more  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  their  general 
appearance.  It  is  laid  out  in  rectangular  blocks;  the  streets  are  well 
paved,  and  bordered  with  ornamental  trees.  Main  street  is  80  feet  wide, 
and  more  than  a  mile  long.  Many  of  the  public  and  private  buildings 
are  spacious  and  very  handsome  specimens  of  architecture.  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  undulating,  highly  cultivated,  and  dotted  with 
elegant  mansions.  Lexington  is  distinguished  for  the  excellence  of  its 
literary  and  scientific  establishments.  Transylvania  University  of  this 
place  is  a  flourishing  institution  ;  the  departments  of  law  and  medicine 
are  probably  more  frequented  than  any  other  in  the  Western  States.  It 
has  a  library  of  14,000  volumes.  The  halls  of  the  university  are  among 
the  principal  ornaments  of  the  city.  The  State  lunatic  asylum,  located 
here,  occupies  a  large  and  beautiful  building,  capable  of  accommodating 
more  than  300  patients.  The  city  also  contains  a  court-house,  2  banks, 
a  public  library,  several  academies,  a  museum,  an  orphan  asylum,  about 

12  churches,  and  5  or  6  newspaper  offices.  A  monument  is  to  be  erected 
here  to  the  memory  of  Henry  Clay,  who  resided  at  Ashland,  a  mile  and 
a  half  from  the  city.  Lexington  is  the  centre  of  an  extensive  trade,  facili- 
tated by  railways — one  extending  to  Louisville  via  Frankfort,  and  another, 
recently  completed,  connecting  it  with  Cincinnati.  Other  railways 
are  in  course  of  construction  to  Maysville  and  Danville.  This  place  is 
the  seat  of  valuable  manufactures,  the  most  important  of  which  are  bag- 
ging, ropes,  iron,  brass,  and  silver  ware,  machinery,  and  carriages.  The 
city  and  suburbs  produce  annually  about  3,000,000  yards  of  bagging, 
and  2,500,000  pounds  of  rope.  Lexington  was  formerly  the  capital  of 
Kentucky.  It  was  founded  in  1776,  and  incorporated  in  1782.  Popu- 
lation in  1845,  8,178;  in  1853,  it  was  about  12,000. 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES 


FROM  EAST  TO  WEST. 


From  Boston  to  Albany. 
Boston  to 

Worcester 44 

Clappville   53 

Charlton 57 

Spencer 62 

East  Brookfield 64 

Brookfield 67 

West  Brookfield 69 

Warren 73 

Brimfield 

Palmer  83 

Indian  Orchard 92 

Springfield 98 

West  Springfield 100 

Westfield 108 

Kussell 116 

Huntington 119 

Chester  Factory 126 

Middlefield  

Becket 135 

Washington 138 

Hinsdale 143 

Dal  ton 146 

Pittsfield 151 

Shaker  Village  154 

Richmond 159 

State  Line 162 

Canaan  167 

East  Chatham 172 

Chatham  Four-Corners. ...177 

Chatham  Center 181 

Kinderhook 184 

Schodack 192 

Greenbush 199 

Albany 200 


New     York  to  Albany. 
New   York,    Chambers 
street,  to 

Thirty-first  street 3 

Manhattan  8 

Yonkers  17 

Hastings  21 

Dobbs'Ferry 22 


Irvington   25 

Tarrytown  27 

Sing  Sing 32 

Crugers 36 

Peekskill 43 

Garrison's 51 

Cold  Spring 54 

Fishkill  60 

New  Hamburg 66 

Poughkeepsie 75 

Hyde  Park 81 

Staatsburg 85 

Rhinebeck 91 

Barrytown  

Tivoli 100 

German  town 105 

Oak  Hill 110 

Hudson 116 

Stockport 120 

Coxsackie 123 

Stuyvesant 126 

Schodack  133 

Castleton 136 

East  Albany.- 144 

Albany  to  Buffalo. 
Albany  to 

Troy 

Schenectady 17 

Hoffman's 26 

Crane's  Village 30 

Amsterdam 33 

Tribe's  Hill 39 

Fonda 44 

Yost's  49 

Spraker's 52 

Palatine  Bridge 55 

Port  Plain 58 

St,  Johnsvillo 64 

Little  Falls 74 

Herkimer 81 

Ilion 83 

Frankfort 86 

Utica 95 

Whitesboro' 99 


Oriskany  10U 

Rome 109 

Green's  Corners 114 

Verona  118 

Oneida  122 

Wampsville 125 

Canastota 127 

Canasaraga 131 

Chittenango 133 

Kirkville 137 

Manlius  140 

Syracuse 148 

Warner's 157 

Canton  159 

Jordan 165 

Weedsport 169 

Port  Byron  ... 172 

Savannah 179 

Clyde 186 

Lyons  193 

Newark 198 

Palmyra 206 

Macedon 210 

Fairport 219 

Rochester 229 

Cold  Water 235 

Chili 239 

Churchville 244 

Bergen 247 

West  Bergen 251 

Byron  254 

Batavia 261 

Croft's 268 

Pembroke 272 

Alden 277 

Wende 279 

Town  Line 282 

Lancaster 287 

Forks 289 

Buffalo  298 


Rochester  to  Suspension 
Brkhje. 
Rochester  to 
Gates * 

635 


636 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES, 


Spencerport 10 

Adam's  Basin  12 

Brockport 17 

Holley  22 

Murray 25 

Albion    30 

Medina 40 

Middleport 45 

Gasport 51 

Lockport £  6 

Pekin 06 

Suspension  Bridge 74 

Connects    with    Great 
Western  Railway. 


Buffalo    to    Saspension 
Bridge, 
Buffalo  to 

Black  Rock 4 

Tonawanda 11 

La  Salle 17 

Niagara  Falls  22 

Suspension  Bridge 24 


New    York   to    Dunkirk,  via. 

New  York  and  Erie  R.  B. 
New  York  to 

Jersey  City 1 

Bergen 3 

Hackensack  Bridge 7 

Boiling  Spring 9 

Passaic  Bridge 12 

Huyler's 13 

Paterson 17 

Goodwin ville 22 

Hohokus 24 

Allendale 26 

Ramsey's 28 

Suffern's 33 

Ramapo 34 

Sloatsburg... 36 

Southflelds 43 

Greenwood 45 

Turner's  48 

Monroe 50 

Oxford 53 

Junction    55 

Chester  56 

Goshen  60 

Hampton  64 

Middletown  68 

Howell's  72 

Otisville  76 

Port  Jervis 89 

Shohola 108 

Lackawaxen  112 

Mast  Hope  117 

Narrowsburg  123 

Cochecton 132 

Callicoon 137 

Hankin's 144 

Lord  ville  154 

Stockport 160 

Hancock 165 


Hale's  Eddy 173 

Deposit  178 

Susquehanna 193 

Great  Bend  201 

Kirkwood 207 

Binghamton 216 

Union  .224 

Campville 231 

Owego 238 

Tioga 243 

Smithboro' 247 

Barton  250 

Waveriy 257 

Chemung 261 

Wellsburg 267 

Elmira 274 

Junction    Elmira,    Canan- 
daigua,     and    Niagara 

Falls  Railroad 278 

Big  Flats 2S4 

Corning   292 

Painted  Post 293 

Addison  303 

Rathboneville  308 

Cameron  31 5 

Crosby  ville 324 

Canisteo 329 

Hornelsville 333 

[See  table  from  Hornels- 
ville to  Buffalo.] 

Almond 338 

Alfred 342 

Andover  350 

Genesee 359 

Scio 363 

Phillipsville 367 

Belvidere 370 

Friendship 375 

Cuba  3S4 

Hinsdale 390 

Olean 396 

Allegany 399 

Great  Valley 412 

Little  Valley 222 

Cattaraugus 429 

Dayton  439 

Perrysburg  442 

Smith's  Mills 449 

Forestville 452 

Dunkirk 461 


Darien  City  64 

Darien  Center  66 

Alden 71 

Town  Line  76 

Lancaster 81 

Buffalo  91 


Philadelphia  to  Williamsport 
Philadelphia  to 

Port  Clinton 78 

Ringgold  88 

Tamaqua 98 

Summit  HO 

Mahanoy H8 

Ringtown 123 

Beaver 130 

Maineville  138 

Catawissa 146 

Rupert 147 

Danville 154 

Mooresburg 160 

Milton  170 

Muncy 187 

Williamsport 197 


Hornelsville  to  Buffalo. 
Hornelsville  to 

Burns  9 

Whitney  Valley  13 

Swain  ville 17 

Nunda 24 

Portage 30 

Castile 34 

Gainesville 37 

Warsaw 44 

Middlebury 49 

Linden 53 

Attica  60 


Williamsport  to  Elmira, 
Williamsport  to 

McKinney's  5 

Mahaffey's 7 

Cogan  Valley 8 

Crescent 11 

Trout  Run  15 

Field's 16 

Dubois 19 

Bodine's 20 

Lycoming 22 

Ralston 25 

Canton 39 

Alba 44 

West  Granville 48 

Troy 52 

Columbia  Road 57 

Dunning's  65 

State  Line 68 

Elmira  78 


Elm  ira  to  Suspension  Bridge. 
Elmira  to 

Junction 4 

Horseheads  6 

Millport 13 

Havana 19 

Jefferson  22 

Rock  Stream 28 

Big  Stream  30 

Starkev 33 

Himrod's  37 

Milo  Center 41 

Penn  Yann 45 

Benton 49 

Bellona 51 

Hall's  Corners 55 

Gorham 58 

Hopewell 63 


FROM  EAST  TO  WEST. 


637 


Canandaigua 69. 

East  Bloomleld 77j 

West  Bloomfield 85 

Honeoye  Falls 88 

Genesee    Valley   Railroad 

Junction  95 

Caledonia  102 

Leroy 109 

Stafford 113 

Batavia 119 

East  Pembroke  125 

Richville 132 

Akron  135 

Clarence  Center 142 

Transit 146 

Vincent 152 

Tonawanda 155 

Cayuga  Creek 161 

Niagara  Falls 166 

Suspension  Bridge  ..168 


Portland 50 

Westfleld 57 

Quincy 65 

State  Line 68 

North  East 73 

Harbor  Creek 80 

Erie 88 

Swanville 95 

Girard 103 


?pi-«V 


'field 


.108 


Suspension  Bridge  to  Detroit, 
via  Great  Western  Railway. 
Suspension  Bridge  to 

Thorold 9 

St.  Catherines 11 

Jordan 17 

Beamsville 22 

Grimsby 27 

Ontario 32 

Hamilton 43 

Dundas  48 

Flamboro' 52 

Copetown 55 

Vansickles 59 

Fairchild's  Creek 62 

Paris 72 

Princeton  79 

Eastwood  86 

Woodstock  91 

Beachville  96 

Ingersoll  100 

Edwardsburg 110 

London 119 

Komoka    129 

Mount  Brydges 134 

Ekfrid 139 

Mosa 149 

Wardsville 155 

Thamesville  168 

Chatham 183 

Baptiste  Creek 196 

Rochester 210 

Puce  216 

Windsor 229 

Detroit 230 

Buffalo  to   Chicago,  via  Lake 

Shore  Railroad. 
Buffalo  to 

Hamburg  10 

Evans'  Center 21 

Irving 29 

Dunkirk  40 

41 


Conneaut 115 

Kingsville 123 

Ashtabula 129 

Saybrook 133 

Geneva 138 

Madison  143 

Perry 148 

Painesville 152 

Mentor 158 

Willoughby 162 

Wickliffe 167 

Euclid 171 

Cleveland 181 

Rockport 187 

Berea 193 

Olmsted  Falls 195 

Ridgeville 200 

Elyria 206 

Amherst  212 

Brownhelm  215 

Vermillion 119 

Berlin  227 

Huron  231 

Sandusky 241 

Venice  244 

Mixer's  Point  248 

Port  Clinton 254 

Hartford 265 

Benton 271 

Clay  Junction 580 

Toledo  288 

Chicago 531 


Sturgis 112 

White  Pigeon 124 

Middlebury 129 

Bristol 134 

Elkhart  1  I  I 

Mishawaka 154 

South   Bend 15b 

Terre  Coupee 169 

Rolling  Prairie 178 

Laporte 185 

Holmesvillc  193 

Calumet. 202 

Bailytown 207 

Miller's 214 

Pine  Station 221 

Ains  worth 231 

Junction 236 

Chicago 243 


Buffalo  to  Chicago  via  Michi- 
gan Southern  Railroad. 
Steamers    leave    Buffalo    for 
Toledo    every  evening,  ex- 
cept Sundays. 
Toledo  to 

Air  Line  Junction 3 

Sylvania 11 

Knight's 21 

Blissfield 23 

Palmyra 27 

Adrian 33 

Clayton 44 

Hudson 50 

Pitsford 56 

Hillsdale  66 

Jonesville 70 

Quincy 82 

Coldwater 88 

Bronson 99 

Burr  Oak 106 


Buffalo  to  Chicago  via  Michi- 
gan Central  Railroad. 
Steamers  leave  Buffalo  for  De- 
troit every  evening,  except 
Sundays. 
Detroit  to 

Halfway  Side  Track 

Dearborn 10 

Wayne 18 

Ypsilanti  30 

Ann  Arbor 37 

Dexter  47 

Chelsea.  54 

Grass  Lake 65 

Jackson 75 

Parma 86 

Albion  9£ 

Marengo 101 

Marshall 107 

Ceresco 112 

Battle  Creek 120 

Galesburg 134 

Kalamazoo 14S 

Oshtemo 148 

Paw  Paw 159 

Decatur 167 

Dowagiac 178 

Niles 191 

Buchanan 196 

Terre  Coupee 202 

New  Buffalo 218 

Michigan  City 228 

Porter 240 

Lake  Station 248 

Gibson's 260 

Calumet 269 

Five  Mile  Side  Track 

Chicago 282 

Philadelphia  lo  Pittsburg. 
Philadelphia  to 

Downing 32 

Lancaster  68 

Dillerville 70 

Landisville  Station 11 


638 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES, 


Mount  Joy 81      Pittsburg  to  Fort  Wayne. 

Elizabethtown 87|Pittsburg  to 

Conewago 90  j  Courtney's  6 

Branch  Intersection 95|Haysville 10 

Middletown  96  Sewickley 12 

Highspire 100  Shousetown 14 

Harrisburg 106  Economy 17 

Rockville  Station Ill  Remington 21 


Cove 116 

Duncannon 120 

Aqueduct  Station 123 

Baily's 128 

Newport , 133 

Millerstown 138 

Thompsontown 143 

Tuscarora 148 

Mifflin 154 

Narrows  Station 161 

Lewistown 166 

Anderson's  Station 173 

McVeyton 178 

Manayunk  Station 183 

North   Hamilton 188 

Mount  Union 191 

Mill   Creek 197 

Huntingdon 202 

Petersburg 208 

Spruce  Creek 214 

Tyrone 221 

Fostoria 227 

Altoona 236 

Kittanning  Point 242 

East  End  of  Tunnel 247 

Gallitzin 249 

Cresson 252 

Lilly's 256 

Portage 260 

Willmore 262 

Summerhill 264 

South  Fork 268 

Mineral  Point 270 

Conemaugh 273 

Johnstown 275 

Dornock  Point 278 

Slackwater  Station 281 

Nineveh 285 

New  Florence 289 

Lockport 293 

Bolivar 295 

Blairsville  Branch 300 

Hillside 304 

Derry 307 

Latrobe 312 

Beaty's 315 

Greensburg 322 

Radebaugh's  324 

Manor 329 

Irwin's 331 

Stewart's 336 

Brin  ton's. 341 

Wilkinsburg 346 

East  Liberty 348 

Outer  Station 352 

Pittsburg ..353 


Freedom 23 

Rochester 25 

New  Brighton 28 

Darlington 38 

Enon 44 

Palestine 49 

Bull  Creek 54 

Columbiana 59 

Franklin 65 

Salem  69 

Damascus.  74 

Smithfield 77 

Alliance 82 

Strasburg 88 

Louisville 94 

Canton 100 

Massillon 108 

Lawrence 115 

Fairview 119 

Orrville 123 

Paradise  126 

Wooster 134 

Millbrook 140 

Clinton  143 

Lakeville  149 

Loudonville 155 

Perrysville  160 

Lucas  167 

Mansfield  174 

Spring  Mills 179 

Richland  183 

Crestline 187 

Leesville 190 

Bucyrus 199 

Nevada 207 

Upper  Sandusky 216 

Eirby 222 

Forest 228 

Dunkirk  234 

Mount  Washington 23S 

Johnstown 245 

Lafayette 252 

Lima 259 

Elida 266 

Delphos 273 

Middle  Point 279 

Van  Wert 286 

Dixon 299 

Maples 308 

Fort  Wayne 318 


Huntsville 27 

Pierceton 30 

Wooster 33 

Warsaw 40 

Etna  Green 50 

Bourbon 53 

Plymouth  65 

Cross  New  Albany  and  Sa- 
lem Railroad 95 

Valparaiso 104 

Hobart 117 

Cross  Joliet  Cut-Off  Rail- 
road   120 

Illinois  Line 134 

Chicago 147 


Cleveland  to  Cincinnati. 
Cleveland  to 

Rockport 7 

Berea 12 

Olmstead 15 

Columbia 18 

Grafton 25 

La  Grange 29 

Wellington 36 

Rochester 41 

New  London 47 

Greenwich 54 

Salem 60 

Shelby 67 

Crestline 75 

Galion 79 

Iberia 85 

Gilead 92 

Cardington 97 

Ashley  104 

Eden 108 

Delaware 112 

Berlin 115 

Orange 119 

Worthington 126 

Columbus  135 

Cincinnati 255 


Fort   Wayne  to  Chicago. 
Fort  Wayne  to 

Taw-Taw 

Coesse 14 

Columbia 20 


Cincinnati  to  Vincennes. 
Cincinnati  to 

Sylvania 3 

Anderson's  Ferry 6 

Delhi 10 

North  Bend 15 

Pike 17 

Gravel  Pit 18 

Corn-Crib  Switch 21 

Junction 22 

Lawrenceburg 22 

Turnout 23 

Aurora 25 

Cochran 27 

Dillsborough 33 

Moore's  Hill 40 

Milan 42 

Pierceville 45 

Delaware 47 

Laughery  Creek 49 


FROM  EAST  TO  WEST. 


639 


Osgood 52 

Poston  56 

II. >lt on 58 

Otter  Creek 61 

Turnout 63 

Butlerville 66 

North  Vernon 73 

Hardenberg 80 

Seymour. 88 

Vincennes  to  St.  Louis. 
Take  steamers  for  all  ports  on 
the    Mississippi    and   Mis- 
souri Rivers. 
Vincennes  to 

Lawrenceville 9 

Summer 19 

Claremont 25 

Olney 31 

Noble 39 

Maysville  46 

Flora 53 

Xenia 62 

Middleton 70 

Salem 79 

Junction 85 

Sandoval  88 

Collins' 96 

Carlyle 102 

Shoal  Creek 110 

Aviston 114 

Trenton 118 

Summerfield 122 

Lebanon 125 

O'Fallon  133 

Caseyville 139 

Dlinoistown 147 

St  Louis 

Cleveland  to  Indianapolis. 
Cleveland  to 

Crestline 75 

Galion 79 

Caledonia 90 

Marion 99 

Bryant's 104 

Larue  113 

Mount  Victory 121 

Ridgway 124 

Rushsylvania 130 

Harper 133 

Bellefontaine  139 

De  Graff. 149 

Pemberton  155 

Sidney 162 

Hardin 167 

Lor.  and  Houston 172 

Versailles 180 

Dallas 188 

Union 197 

Harrisville 201 

Winchester 207 

Farmland  214 

Smithfield 221 


Muncie 227 

Yorktown 233 

Chesterfield 239 

Anderson  245 

Pendleton 253 

Alfont 258 

Fortville 261 

McCord's 264 

Oakland 266 

Laneville 271 

Delzell'a 275 

Indianapolis  280 

Indianapolis  to  Terre  Haute 
Indianapolis  to 

Bridgeport 9 

Plainfield 14 

Cartersburg 17 

Bellville  19 

Clayton 21 

Pecksburg 33 

Amo, 25 

Cincinnatus 27 

Coastville 29 

Nicholsonville 33 

Greencastle 39 

Putnamville 42 

Hamerick's 44 

Reel's  Mill 48 

Eaglefield's  Mill 51 

Croy's  Creek 62 

Brazil 57 

Staunton 61 

Cloverland 63 

Wood's  Mill 65 

Terre  Haute 73 


Terre  Haute  to  Alton,  on  the 

Mississippi,  at  the  junction 

of  the  Missouri. 

Terre  Haute  to 

St.  Mary's 4 

Sanford's 8 

Paris 19 

Grandview 28 

Midway 32 

Ashmore 37 

Charleston 46 

Mattoon 56 

Summit 62 

Windsor 68 

Thornton 78 

Shelbyville 80 

Towerhill 88 

Pana 95 

Nocomis 107 

Irving 117 

Hillsborough 123 

Litchfield 134 

Clyde 139 

Gillespie 144 

Bunker  Hill 153 

Dorsey's 158 

Bethalto 163 


Alton 163 

Junction 167 

Illinoistown 187 

St  Louis 

Chicago  to  St.  Louis. 
Chicago  to 

Joliet 4 

Elwood 49 

Wilmington 56 

Stewart's  Grove 63 

Gardner 68 

Dwight 77 

Odell 85 

Livingston 90 

Pontiac 95 

Rook  Creek 100 

Peoria  Junction 106 

Lexington 113 

Towanda 121 

Illinois    Central    Railroad 

Junction 127 

Bloomington 129 

Funk's  Grove 140 

Atlanta, 149 

Lawn  Dale 151 

Lincoln 160 

Elkhart 170 

Williamsville 176 

Sangamon 183 

Springfield 188 

Great    Western    Railroad 

Junction ...190 

Chatham 197 

Auburn 203 

Virden 210 

Girard 214 

Prairie  Station 218 

Carlinville  226 

Macoupin 233 

Shipman 241 

Brighton 248 

Monticello ....255 

Alton 280 

St  Louis 285 

Chicago  to  Burlington 
Chicago  to 

Park  Station 

Oak  Ridge 8 

Babcock's  Grove 20 

Danby 23 

Wheaton's 15 

Winfield  28 

Junction 30 

Batavia 36 

Aurora 43 

West  Aurora 44 

Montgomery 45 

Oswego 47 

Bristol 51 

Piano 57 

Newark 61 

Somonauk 64 


640 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES. 


;rly  „ 71 

..  77 



a?:;-. 

r. 104 

Princeton 109 

Ml 126 

Buia  112 

Net   -set  12S 

Kewanee  1-36 

Galvy 144 

Altona 152 

Wataga 160 

.-"oarg 16S 

Cameron 177 

Monmouth 154 

- 

Oquawka  Junetion 202 

East  Borlir-:  ■  .210 


Highland  Park 23 

tad SO 

Waukegan 35 

State  Line 45 

51 

M 62 

Countv  Line 7 

Oak  Creek 75 

Milwaukie 85 


Crystal  Lake 43 

■   -ell 45 

-took 51 

Janesville 90 

Fond  da  Lao  176 


Chicago  to  Madison. 
Chicago  to 

Park  Station 

Oak  Ridge  8 

Cottage  HilL 16 

Babcoek's  Grove 20 

Danbr  22 

25 

Winfield 27 

Aurora  Junction 30; 

Wayne 35 

Clinton 39 

42 

. ::      50 

Huntley 55 

Union 62 

Marag 

Garden  Prairie 

7? 

-:nia W 

Boseoe 93 

Beloit 

Afton 106 

Plymouth lllj 

FoWille 114; 

Magnolia IIS' 

Madison —...156 


Milwaukie  to  Beaver  Dam.    I 
Milwaukie 

Schwartzburg 7 

Granville 13 

Germantown  IS 

Richfield  23 

Cedar  Creek 25 

singer 30 

:i 34 

Rubicon  

W*  :  Bud 4! 

Iron  Ridge 45 

KB 51 

Junction  54 

Oak  Grtve  

Beaver  Dam 61 


Galena  to  St.  Paul. 
Galena  to 

The  mouth  of  Fever  River     6 
Dubuque 25 

die 5- 

Wte  7 83 

Prairie  du  Chien 88 

Upper  Iowa  Rirer 126 

Bad  Ox 13S 

River 161 

Black  Rive- 173 

Chippewa  River 341 

like  Pepin .266 

ls , 301 

St.  Paul. 327 


n 


Milicaukie  to  Madison. 
Milwaukie  to 

Wauwautosa 

Track 

:n 

-  House 

Waukesha 

Genesee  



73 

water 

:     tton 



'jU 

_  :t:r:». 

n 


5 
12 

:■ 

36 
42 
50 
55 

. 
72 

-. 

9S 


Chicago  to  Milwaukie 
Chicago  to 

Chittenden. 7 

Evanston 12 

Wynetka -  16 

Glencoe 19, 


Chicago  to  Fond  du  Lac. 
7         •     I 

tt 9 

12 

Des  Pliines 16 

:          a  23 

27 

Barrington  32 

Gary 33, 


Independence,  Mo.,  to  Paienee 

Rock, 
Independence  City  to 

5  boundary 22 

Love  Eim 2y 

Round  Grove. 35 

The  Narrows 65 

Blackjack 6$ 

One-hundred-and-ten-mile 

Creek 100 

(Council    Citv.)     Switzler 

Creek 109 

Dragoon  Creek 114 

(Council  Grove, )  Big  John 

Spring 149 

K  i  Vi.lage.  150 

Sylvan  Camp 152 

WUlow  Spring 158 

Diamond  Spring 171 

Spring 157 

Cottoawood  Fork  of  Grand 

River 199 

Turkey  Creek 228 

Mud  Creek 247 

tittle  Arkansas 250 

Cow  Creek 270 

Plum  Butte; 284 

Great  Bend  of  the  Arkan- 
sas  2^ 

Walnut  Creek. 293 

Pawnee  Roek 307 


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